Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Transmission Cooler - Trans Fluid Dark?
Jul 9, 2017
I pull a 23 ft travel trailer with my 99 f150 4.6l and so I decided I needed a trans cooler just to be safe towing in the dead of summer. I got a few quotes for right under 300. I couldn't justify the labor cost considering the cooler was under 100. So I made up my mind and decided to do it myself. I watched a bunch of videos for other makes and models but couldn't find nothing on my particular model year truck. I finished it today and I realized that my transmission fluid fluid is very dark. I have never serviced the transmission ever not even a drain and refill. I am going on my trip in about 7 days, and was wondering if I should even mess with anything to do with the transmission fluid. I put about a half quart of new fluid to top it off after the install of the transcooler but now I am worried that my transmission may not be in the best shape. Truck shifts fine as far as I concerned and acceleration is ok, so I am hesitant to do anything to it.
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I am adding an auxiliary trans fluid cooler to my C-6 in my F-250. Should the fluid route thru the aux cooler first then the stock rad cooler, or thru radiator cooler to aux cooler? Which stock hard line is fluid FROM the C-6 (HOT), and which is the return line (cold)?
Vehicle is 78 F-250 4x4 crewcab, 400/C-6
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
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My car is a 2003 Toyota Camry with 109,000 miles. At my most recent oil change the mechanic said the transmission fluid was extremely dark. He said if there had been no previous fluid change before 100,000 miles it would do more harm than good to change it now. I cannot find any record of this having been done. Is this advice correct? What does this mean for the function of the transmission?
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This line is rusted out on my V10 and leaking fluid.
How hard/expensive is this to fix?
I'm in the middle of doing my exhaust manifolds right now, so I'm hoping it's a simple bolt-on fix.
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So my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
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1999 F-150 4.6 4R70W transmission 148,000 miles. My transmission was slipping so I changed fluid and filter. I believe the transmission fluid was changed one other time (I did not find the yellow plug in the pan). Transmission fluid smelled burnt. Added new fluid and Lucas treatment. Turned truck on and the battery light came on. Brief test drive and no change in transmission until almost home and then it would not go into gear. Lights were dim power windows wouldn't work. Reverse works. I assume it is time for a new transmission and the electrical issue is related to the transmission. I use the truck a lot and am leaning towards getting it fixed. I can't swap out transmission myself and would have to take it to a garage.
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So changing the oil in my truck the other day, I noticed the exhaust clamp at the union between my down pipe and first section of my exhaust has been rubbing the trans cooler line and there's a Nick in the granny pan. Lookin at the rubber grommet on the hanger, its stretched tight and looks like the exhaust has shifted over. What could have done this or possible fixes?right by now it's got a gob of high temp silicone acting as a stand off. Don't wanna put the new line in until I have the situation remedied.
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So I rebuilt my transmission earlier this year and its been working great, but I've yet to install a better cooler on it. I do quite a bit of towing with it, most of which is my boat. I've searched a lot on the forum here but cant decide on how to set up a better trans cooler.
I want a cooler that's going to handle cooling my trans on steep hills and such, but I don't want to completely cover my a/c condenser (I really like cold a/c ).
I've considered adding a couple of the frame mount coolers in-line and keep the factory cooler, I'm just not sure how well it would work.
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Transmission oil cooler line, lower one, is leaking. I think to use pvf, black ones, brake line instead of new transmission oil cooler line. I did replaced upper one with new transmission oil cooler line before a few years and it is rusty already as those line are only zinc plated as opposed to plastified brake lines.
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Is it suggested for transmission cooler to replace the small stock one? I'm going to get towing stuff soon and just want to make sure I'm not smoking my trans. There's a few I've seen....
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The trans fluid appears to need to be changed. I do not know if it has been changed in the past as this 2001 F150 with a V6 truck is new to me and has 88K miles. I am wanting to drain the torque converter as well as drop the pan and change the filter. I am willing to take the risk of having to rebuild the transmission if the flush junks it up.
Three Questions:
1. Is there any issue with mixing the synthetic with ATF fluid as there would still be ATF in the cooler and other places unless I take it someplace and have it mechanically flushed?
2. Is there a way to determine if my 4R70W trans has a drain plug in the torque converter with out getting under there, looking thru the inspection port while some one is clicking the starter?
3. Is there any reason not to put a drain plug in the pan while it is uninstalled?
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My 1999 7.3l Disel 4x4 transmission quit on me the other day. No forward or reverse. Got towed to my regular repair shop, and they are treating the transmission as a black box and recommending total replacement. The diagnostics they performed were to make sure it was shifting, and that indeed it wasn't going forward or reverse. They drained the fluid and said "it's pitch black" and said it had to be completely replaced.
Fluid level was OK, and it wasn't hot. I was driving along, and merging onto the highway. It downshifted, shuddred, and nadda. Free rev. I coasted to the next exit and into a parking lot. Verified that it was shifting, checked Rev and all forwards. It wouldn't shift into 4W, and 1-2 also wouldn't move.
I'm trying to figure out what might have happened... and if it's worth trying to have the truck towed to a transmission shop and have them diagnose and rebuild, vs just getting a remanufactured transmission. None of the local wreckers have any used transmissions, and the cost between a reman and a used is pretty negligible...
Not sure what the symptoms points to for exact failure mode, be it the torque converter, pump, input shaft, etc... I've never had an automatic transmission apart before, but built plenty of motors and am a machinist by trade. My preference is to try and root cause the failure...
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I just purchased a 2000 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 automatic... it ran great for a few days and even ran fine on the 100+mile trip home from the previous owners house. All the sudden it shut down on the highway today. I could barely get it started again and when it did start, it ran like hell, bucking and jolting, almost like a really bad misfire. I could also smell trans fluid being heated up, so I let it sit awhile and then it fired right up. It drove for about a half mile and began to act up again. I threw it in second gear to limp it home which it died several times on. Each time I'd let it sit for like 15 minutes with the negative battery cable off. It fires right up after that but the problem quickly returns. Also the overdrive button doesn't work, and the trans control switch fuse (spot 29) blows repeatedly. Also the power door locks do not work.
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I have a 2001 E350 van with the 4R100 Transmission. It had a severe and sudden leak develop in the trans cooler. The driver noted trouble getting the vehicle into gear, into reverse, but ultimately drove it about 25 miles until it stopped unable to go up a hill. Once stopped, the leaking fluid was obvious from smoke & fluid over the back of the vehicle.
It was towed to a local shop (not a transmission shop). They put 9 quarts of fluid in and started the engine hoping to see the transmission functional but only leaking from the cooler. Instead they found it not operational and no fluid coming from the leak. They assume the pump is ruined to the point of not pumping fluid at all.
Is it likely that the front pump is the only damage? Can I pull the unit swap the pump & put it back in service? What else (if more damage is likely) would a transmission repair shop find? What about a used transmission?
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Today I finally looked under the car and notice that there was oil or some dark greasy fluid right in front of the transmission pan. Which the front half of the transmission pan has grease like fluid on it, but I notice its coming more from the front of transmission area but up higher up. What area this might be coming from? Notice that its also running down two small piping. I think this is where the smell of burning oil or burning something is coming from.
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As explained in the photo annotations, I can't figure out how to remove this line from the radiator so I can remove the radiator for cleaning.
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I bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
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My son's 96 camry 4-cyl developed a transmission problem. It slips in the forward gears. Reverse works find. At start, the first gear slips allot but eventually moves the car. It also slips between gears. The transmission fluid has a burnt smell and a dark color. The problem started about 1 1/2 years after I swiped out the transmission. The replacement transmission is used and I was told it came from Japan. It worked great up until the problem started.
In one Post I found suggested old contaimination buildup that may have clog a shift port or something. Can I gain access to the hydraulic area without pulling the transmission? And if so, is there hope in recovering the transmission by cleaning this area? Is there a solution that does not require removing the transmission?
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Re packed / cleaned my hubs. Did a 600 mile trip and front driveshaft is locked again. Am trying for first time soaking them. They are in tranni fluid right now. I can't afford warn hubs. Is there any other tricks? Or will I have to soak them every few months?
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I've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
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