Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Stalls / Won't Start When Hot
Mar 31, 2008
1999 F150. The truck is a 4X4 supercab, with the 4.6 motor, 141,000 mi. During cold weather it runs great, but as soon as the temp gets into the upper 70's or higher I have a recurring problem. The truck starts right up and runs well, but when it is shut off it will not restart until it has sat for over an hour. It has also stalled at speed on the freeway when the outside temp was in the upper 90's to low 100's.
So far it has always restarted after sitting for awhile. I took it to the dealer and they kept it for 3 days, but could not duplicate the problem and found no codes in the computer. I replaced both coils, but it is still not starting after shut down when hot. My next thought is to change the PCM, but that is a big chunk of change to be guessing about.
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My dad has passed his 99 f 150 with 130,000 miles to me. It is a 2 wheel drive, extended cab automatic equipped with the 4.6. Recently, the blend door failed and as a temporary measure I installed a ball valve in the heater core supply hose. The ac now blows ice cold.
On two occasions since the installation of the ball valve, the truck has stalled at idle when in park and would not start, although it turned over fine, until 30 to 45 minutes elapsed. On both occasions it was a hot day. The check engine light is not on and no codes are stored.
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So I leave town Friday with the wife's car for a golf tournament that is 4 hours away. I left her with my 2001 F150 Supercrew Lariat 4x4 5.4L. She calls as I am starting my practice round on Friday stating that the truck had died on her in the local Dillons parking lot. She had driven to the east side of Wichita, then drove all the way back to the west side before swinging into Dillons to get some chinese food for lunch. When she gets in the truck to leave, she starts it and it runs rough.
She gave it gas and it ran fine for a few seconds, she put it in drive, and then it started running rough again. She stopped the truck in the parking stall ahead of her, turned it off, and restarted it. Same thing...runs rough. She tried giving it gas, but it would not go above 1500 rpm. Then it just died on her. She then tried cranking it, but it would not turn over. She let it sit overnight and got a ride from a friend (it was 102 degrees out), went back the next morning to try again. Same thing, just cranks. So I get back last night and go up with my scanner. No codes, no SES/CEL.
So, I am now thinking it is the fuel pump. I crawled underneath the truck and had her turn the key so I could see if I can hear the fuel pump. Nothing. I went ahead and disconnected the battery to let it sit overnight.
I am about to head up there and see what I can do. So far, here is my list of things I need to check:
1. Fuel pump relay #301
2. Fuel pump fuse #18
3. Check for the theft light
4. Check "inertia switch" on the passenger side kick panel
5. OPEN gas cap and listen for the fuel pump (had never heard of that one)
6. Hit the gas tank a few times with a rubber mallet to "jar" the fuel pump (again, never heard of that one).
My question to all of you is: Am I missing anything else? Alos, with it running perfect, then running rough and suddenly dying, would is necessarily be the fuel pump? I had read something about a "Fuel Pump Module" located near the spare tire. Is that something I should check into with it running rough (well, not running at all now) like this?
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2001 Excursion 7.3 - stalls randomly, sometimes will not start. After the IPR was replaced it was rough for about 4 miles (I thought maybe air in the system), next 40 miles was flawless with 3 stops and restarts. Then it sat for a few hours and I went to leave again and the problem was off and on again for another 5 mile drive. Now it won't start in the driveway. It will start if I disconnect the ICP but the idle is still a little rough.
I replaced the normal culprits after a lot of searching on here:
CPS - replaced with autozone part, thought maybe it was bad new so went to ford and replaced with official part from the dealer
ICP - had oil in the plug and it would idle better removed so I replaced the plug and as much wire as I could - soldered, heat shrunk, good connections - both the pigtail and sensor came from Ford dealer
IPR - replaced with part from the Ford Dealer (FYI - 1 1/8" 1/2" drive craftsman deep socket from sears fit in the ratchet and on the part).
Grounds - found somewhere that the ground on the firewall for the windshield wipers can interfere with the CPS so I pulled it, clean the connections and made sure it was tight and secure.
No check engine light now - I received a few through the process, but did not clear them and there are no codes at this time (self cleared on the 40 mile drive)
I'm thinking it may be some electrical issue/short or a fuel issue at this point, bowl is full and the filter is fairly new (few thousand miles). I haven't done the Hutch mod, but have over 1/2 a tank.
I'm trying to get this going as quick as I can so I don't want to waste too much time, but I also don't want to miss a critical troubleshooting step to take.
Below are my thoughts on the next steps.
Research and test fuel pressure
Tow it somewhere to test each injector - I only have Torque pro to read codes and engine status
If fuel delivery checks out ok, start testing wire by wire on all of the above parts.
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1999 7.3l 6spd standard 4x4. Just bought the truck 4 months ago knowing it had a problem that once warm occasionally would t start. Happened a few times every week or two. But wait 15 minutes and the truck would fire back up. Then it started happening more often throughout a day. And I would have to wait longer for it to cool to start it up.
Icp has been changed
Cam sensor
Pulled valve covers to check to see if there were any injector o rings failing. They were all good. Put it all back together.
Pulled the IPR and tore it apart cleaned it all out
Started driving it ran great for a week. Then today sitting at a light the truck died just as if I had turned the key off. Wouldn't start for 3 hours. The. Fired up. Took it to buddies show and started checking things out again. Both batteries load test great and fully charged. Alternator pumping out 13.5 and up.
Codes i have pulled are waste gate to high /low
I forget the number for that one. The second was P1211. Cps has been changed and ipr cleaned. Think that I should replace the ipr of this happens again?
I did get w code a few weeks ago about low voltage at module. this code doesn't appear anymore. Since I checked the plug ins all looks good. But the PCM wasn't mounted properly. So I fixed that up and checked battery connections. They were very good so I re did all of that.
Anyway. Back to the problem. After ipr clean. Drove as she should until sitting at a light a week later. Truck just quit. Would t start back up until cold. Any thoughts. New IPR? Oil in hpop within half inch from top. And I don't seem to have any oil leaks. Did oil change fuel and air filter. Not low on any fluids. I had a 1997 too and threw a bunch of cash at it like this one trying to find the issues.
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2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
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I have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
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My buds 2003 4.6 liter stalls every time he takes his foot off the pedal. Runs fine otherwise, no roughness or anything, you just have to keep your foot on the thing to keep it from dying out.
We checked for codes and found none. I checked vacuum connections and they looked OK.
Is there an easy way to test the IAC or should we just throw a new one in and cross our fingers? If we do change it out, does the truck need to be driven around a bit for the computer to re-learn anything?
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I have a '99 F-150 with 4.6L V-8. The truck has run perfectly since I bought it a year ago. My grandson took it a short distance to a neighborhood store, and when he got back he parked on the neighbor's lawn.
IMMEDIATELY after turning it off, I told him to move it, and it would not start. Wouldn't even turn over. I did a little research, and replaced the most likely culprit, the starter....no change in condition. When keyed to start, the dash lights up, but that's it! I did get under the truck and there IS voltage getting to the large power lead.
The starter has it's own solenoid, however there is another one mounted to the firewall. Does this have anything to do with the starter?
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I have 2001 F-150 with 4.6L. Truck runs fine until under load and runs fine until I slow down to a stop sign. Once truck sits for a few moments it fires up again and will run for a short while then will do it again. Each time i let it sit for a few minutes, it will start again.
I pull a small travel trailer and seems to happen more frequently when pulling or climbing hill, but not under full power, just when slowing down. Could this be cause of catalytic converters? MAF sensor, or fuel starving.
Check engine light is on, will codes identify if it is a plugged cat?
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I've got a 1997 F250 with a transmission problem that I've been trying to diagnose. The problem is I can't grab any codes from the truck. I took her to the transmission shop and they described to me the same problem I was having. Whenever I try reading codes with the engine off it fails, when I try reading codes with the engine on it stalls the engine. The transmission shop referred me to another shop that might be able to figure my problem out, but I'd like to leave that as a last resort. I've checked all fuses and relays and I have a new engine computer on order right now. However, I'd like to know if there are any other possibilities.
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F150 2001 265,000 Super crew 5.4 Fuel Injection ... Runs great. Good gas mileage. Outstanding workhorse.
The problem only occurs on cold mornings. The engine turns over easily and fires right off. Most of the time it will idle fine without any throttle. Hower, the slightest pressure on the gas pedal that the rpm drops and the engine stalls. It starts right back up same problem.
I come back later in the day and it starts and runs fine with and without load. No codes and the the fuel pump, fuel filter, and been replaced--no change.
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I had what I was told was the breather (on the drivers side valve cover) snap off. I was able to place a piece of tubing In it and reconnect it. I had to change the #7 cylinder spark plug wire. Got a misfire code and found the wire was loose and corroded. Replaced wire and PVC valve.
My problem is, it seems not to be idling as fast as it was before this happened. The truck stalls out now in gear but not in park. 1997 F150 4.6 ....
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I have a 97 ford f150 with a 5.4 I bought the truck with 114000 miles on it and the exhaust manifold bolts were broke from the exhaust I have replace the whole manifold with new gaskets and bolts and I get the codes 1131 and 1151 which indicates o2 sensors indicate lean and I also get p0136 and p0153 which indicate lean or front o2 sensors it will stay running for a little bit every once in a while but it only idles at 200 to 400 rpms and I'm not sure what to do?
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My niece has a 1999 F150 with a 4.6L engine. She was driving it down the road and it died and would not start. She called her husband, he went where she was, and when he got there, it started. She drove it home, and the next day, same thing. Died going down the road, no start, let it sit overnight, cranked like a new truck. Now it has died and will not start at all. They replaced the fuel pump. Nothing. When you turn on the key, the fuel pump runs continuously. If you pour fuel in the air filter, it will start. They checked all the fuses, nothing blown. When they try to hook it up to an OBD scanner, it does not work. No codes, nothing, it won;t pick it up.
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I am having problems with my truck not sure where to start. It was my everyday truck until one day I got ready to leave for work and the truck wouldn't say anything. It was getting power but no crank no start. Called tow truck he checked battery said that it was good. I got home tried to start truck and it started. I drove to the store and it did the same thing no crank no start. It has 110,000 Sigle cab manual windows...
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1999 F-150 XLT 5.4L Triton 4x4 super cab with a 4" body lift. I bought it used. It has 225,000 miles with engine and transmission rebuilt. This truck doesn't get driven every day - sometimes sits for a week or so at a time...
Issue: A couple weeks ago, it took 4 or 5 attempts to get it to start. Once it started it ran fine and re-started fine. Then my wife drove it but parked it back at home with the gas practically empty. Then it sat for at least a week or so before attempting to start it again. Now it just turns over and won't fire. I suspect fuel pump relay, fuel filter, or fuel pump (hoping its not the latter)
What I have done so far:
1. I put more gas in it in case it really was skimming the bottom of the tank.
2. I tried cycling the key several times thinking that maybe the fuel line just needed to prime.
3. I don't hear the fuel pump "whine" for two seconds when I turn the key to just before start.
4. I checked the fuel pump relay fuse (#10) - not blown
5. I have swapped thet fuel pump relay (#301) with another relay
6. I put 12 volts across the just the relay and I can hear it picking up and dropping out (when not inserted into slot 301)
7. I put my hand on the relay and had someone else turn the key and I can feel it picking up and dropping out (when installed into slot 301)
8. I went and checked out a fuel pressure tester from auto zone and connected it to the schrader valve and got 0 psi while turning the engine over.
All this points me to the fuel pump, but I am not looking forward to dropping the gas tank. With 0 psi, I doubt the filter is just clogged. I would still get some kind of pressure at the fuel rail, right?
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The Truck...
1999 F-150 Supercab
170K miles
4.6 Litre
Automatic Trans
The Problem... About every other day, I try to start the truck, and it doesn't fire at all. It cranks fine, everything seems right, but no start.
What I've done...
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay.. (no luck)
Sprayed Starting Fluid In and Cranked... It Fires On Fluid.
Other info...
This problem never lasts long, and the problem mysteriously fixes itself after no more than an hour.
This problem has occurred both when the truck was warm and completely cold.
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Vehicle will start when put in drive and when put in reverse starter engages and also the ignition wont start vehicle sometimes and the o/d light blinks when driving down the road...
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Last night my boyfriend took a friend to the check cashing store, truck ran fine. shut it off, and when he came out the truck would not start. it cranks over but won't start. Took ignition coil off and had it tested but its fine. What else could be wrong or what can i do to try to get it to start again.
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I have a 99 F150, Regular cab, long bed, with a weird brake problem. With the engine off, the pedal goes firm about 3 inches. But when you start it, the pedal goes to the floor.
I've replaced the master cylinder, and bled the heck out of the 4 wheel cylinders. No soap. The pedal goes nearly to the floor, and does not "pump up".....but does stop the truck.
The ABS light is "on".
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