I am buying my Dad's '99 F-150 4x4 Lariat from him and this truck squeaks something terrible. I am assuming that the chassis bushings need to be replaced. I have 2 questions.
1. Am I on the right track to solve the problem?
2. How hard is the job?
I have had 2 mechanics tell me I need new front bushings and 1 said no. How would I know if I do? Would my car make any sounds etc...?
View 3 Repliesive heard that it will on the newer style trucks but will a pickup dually bed fit on a cab and chassis style truck? It's a 2003 so I've heard it's different.
View 14 RepliesOK here's a new one (for me anyway). My Reg started to produce a squeaking noise from the chassis. I can't tell exactly where its coming from (yet) but it seems to occur mostly at slow speeds. I can reproduce the noise by driving over a speed bump or making a slow speed turn. I suspect an exhaust hanger as it seems to happen front and rear. I cannot reproduce it by bouncing on the corners of car though.
View 3 Replies1999 FORD f150 4x4 XLT
When i drive the truck straight, turn left, turn right and even backup i get a Squeaking noise coming from the front and it is loud.
When the truck is in park and i turn the wheel back and fourth it still Squeaks even inches at a time turning it i can hear the Squeaking noise.
I can have the truck shut off and i put my weight on the front bumper making it bounce up and down i can still hear the same Squeaking noise
But when i jacked up the front end and turned the wheel back and fourth the nose is gone and seems to be great.
Sounds like the Squeaking noise is coming from the driver side. What this can be?
So I'm replacing all the control arms on the front end of my 02 F150 Supercrew 2WD.. Drivers side wasn't much trouble, other than having to cut the top mounting post of the shock off to get it out, and breaking the swaybar link. No big deal, I'll get new ones with new bushings. Was also planning on new shocks soon also, so it'll be sooner than later. Got the passenger side upper off, and new one in. No problem there either.
The lower rear bolt came out OK also... Had to cut this shock out also... No problem... Then I got to the lower front bolt. It is frozen solid to the bushing inner sleeve. Broke out the impact wrench, impact hammer, BFH, prybar, torch, cut-off wheel, sawzall, etc... Got the bolt cut off on the nut end, but can't get cut thru the other. The sleeve must be much harder than the bolt. Went thru a few blades. Need to either find the wrenches for my grinder, or buy some new ones. can't change the cut-off wheel out right now.
You can't get a hammer in there to get a good swing at it, and the bolt head is recessed up in the frame, so you can't even pry on it once you have it out a tiny bit. So, is there any magic potion to getting these bolts out? or am I doing pretty much everything everyone else has to do? Am I just lucky it's only one of the bolts? I know I've got thru this with leaf sprints also, but there easy to take off and take over to the workbench and get the drill, saw, etc at them better.
My wife's brother has a '97 F150 w/4.6L/automatic trans/4x4-OFF ROAD package. It's a standard cab, short bed (fleetside) truck.
It has 126k miles and he is METICULOUS about routine/periodic maintenance. He's owned it since new, has changed the plugs twice.
Is this a common issue with the '97 4.6L? He says he has tried using premium fuel to determine if it makes a difference. He said it worked but it still pings, just not as bad.
She's 10 years old with most of her life spent in AZ. This means that a lot of the rubber she has is dead or dying.
Is it possible to replace the bushings in the trailing arm or is it true that you have to replace the entire trailing arm?
Just got my car back from the shop and it squeaks pretty loudly at low speeds. It seems pretty clearly to be coming from underneath the front seats and it sounds like rubber rubbing against steel so I am guessing its the control arm bushings.
Yesterday I took it to the shop to have the passenger side control arm installed and to have the tie rods done and get an alignment.
This past weekend I installed new drivers side control arm/ball joint, front struts (also installed a new rear hub & wheel bearing). I did not hear any squeaking after I did that.
Is this just something that needs to be broken in?
It wasn't til I got it back from the shop that it started to squeak. I only notice it from 0-20 mph then it seems to go away. Everything else seems fine, suspension, steering and alignment are all great and there's no clunking etc.
Replacing the hinge pin and bushings on the barn door hinges? My drivers side upper hinge pin has completely sheared in two. I took it to the body shop today for replacement and they could not fix it. I think it was more labor intensive than they had imagined.
Anyway, they say I have to replace both the door side and the truck side hinge which are both welded on despite the bolts on the truck side. I found a site that retrofits the front door hinges and they have a special tool to press the old hinge pin out. Is this possible to press out the hinge, or should I try to drill them out?
What are the specs for the sway bar bushings that go in the retaining bracket for a 2003 ford f250? went to advanced auto last night to get some got mine off my truck and the one they gave me was a little too small for my sway bar and the retaining bracket.
View 2 RepliesI have been having that nice thumping noise that generally accompanies worn out sway bar bushings. I did bushings last spring but a noise came back shortly thereafter. Finally got bothered enough/ found enough time to take a look at it and tracked it down to the sway bar again. My right front axle mount has taken damage before and is now all bent up, not allowing the bushing clamp to hold tight to the bushing. Pictures of the issue are below.
Front view of the entire mount.
Rear view showing the sway bar mount plate.
I am unsure what to do about this mount. As you can see it has been pretty messed up by the PO. What could be done to fix the issue?
We have a 1997 f150 with the 4.6 in it originally. The 4.6 was pulled and a 2001 5.4 engine was swapped. I was called to see why it could not run. I did some preliminary tests and suspected the PATS system.
I cannot get the fuel pump to run by jumping the relay and I am assuming all the wiring is proper from the swap.
The 2001 5.4 engine ecu has been transferred over. I run the obd tests and get a bunch of codes but none point to the pats system. The theft light does not prove out or does not flash. I can get it to turn on via my obd scan tool. I have an elm tool.
I do know the 1997 cluster was not changed. The ignition from the 2001 was swapped and have only 1 matching key with it.
When I jumped the fuel pump relay, I produced the code p0232 which tells me the computer saw current in the pump circuit when the PCM has it disabled. Should a swap of this kind also include the pats components ? I also cannot get the fuel pump to run by jumping the relay.
I have the codes :
P01703
P0232
P01747
P0750
P0755
p1451
P1409
P1633
Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
View 5 Replies1997 Ford F-150 4X4 ignition Actuator Rod. Looking for instructions on how to replace a broken Actuator Rod? I know the rod is broken because the upper part moves and the lower part connected to the switch does not move.
View 4 RepliesI own a 2000 F150 4.2L (I think off the top of my head) v6 XL model. For the past couple of years I've had an issue with overheating. So far I've had the following replaced:
Radiator
Thermostat
Radiator Cap
Water Pump
The intake manifold has been repaired, that was the first item to have some work done to it. The shop I took it to said the coolant hose that runs into the manifold was corroded at the entrance to the manifold. They stated there was no way to actually replace the hose, but they gave me two options:
1. replace the entire manifold or
2. cap the existing entrance port, drill a hole into the manifold next to the port, and run a new hose.
I chose the cheaper option which I suspect is part of the problem. Now to the problem.
I can drive around town all day long no problems even in 100+ degree Oklahoma summer heat. I left it idling on the side of a street for 2 hours during summer and no problems. The moment I get the truck to 55mph it starts to overheat. Not just overheat, but peg completely out in just over a mile after hitting 55mph.
Once I drop the truck down to about 40mph the temp starts to lower, but will fluctuate between normal and 3/4 to max.
What I need to look at? I've been told head gaskets, but there's no leaks and no water in the oil. I've been told to replace the engine, which if I could afford that I could afford a down payment on a new truck. It's a bit frustrating at best.
'98 F-150 4X4 XLT began squeaking recently. Have 1/2 mile long sand & limerock driveway thru mature North Florida jungle & every root'n'bump makes it squeak.
Was certain it had to be the J.C.Whitney/Owen's running board I left on passenger side. Upon close inspection, wrestling with it & popping it with big rubber mallet was surprised to find it tight & silent.
Checked bumper & associated bolts, then exhaust & everything else I could see/touch sliding under on a moving quilt.
Does not sound like bushing or ball joint. High pitch squeak, up near the annoying frequency of nails on chalk board.
I have a creaking/squeaking noise in my suspension that is getting worse and worse. maybe it isn't getting worse, but it sounds worse to me everyday because I am tired of hearing it. I have swapped out my shocks and that did not do the trick. i have tried lubricating the leaf springs and all other suspension parts in there, still nothing. i was thinking about changing out the entire leaf spring package, but exactly what the problem is.
View 14 RepliesIs it suggested for transmission cooler to replace the small stock one? I'm going to get towing stuff soon and just want to make sure I'm not smoking my trans. There's a few I've seen....
View 1 RepliesI have a p0401 generic exhaust gas recirculation flow insufficant detected code on my truck I was wondering what would be the first thing to check to get ride of this code? my truck hesitates from a stop while excelerating to several thousand rpm. should I try replacing the dpfe sensor? what does dpfe stand for? do they sell this sensor at oreilys or do you half to get this a the dealership?
View 9 RepliesOver the last few days I have read several threads about heaters not working and blend door replacement. My '02 4.6 F-150 has 250k+ miles and I've always done regular maintenance on it. With the cold front moving in I've noticed that the heater is not blowing hot air. I flushed the radiator and flushed the heater core several times to make sure the core was not clogged. I also replaced the upper radiator hose because of the "crunchy" sound when squeezed. I also replaced the thermostat. Still, the heater is not blowing hot. I assume like many others that the blend door needs to be replaced. My question is do I need to replace the door only or the door and the motor (actuator)? I guess I need to test the motor before buying a new one. I saw a video where you remove all the components on the transmission hump and can actually stick you finger in the motor opening to see if the shaft has come apart.
View 8 Replies