I have a 99 5.4 f-150 stepside 2x4 and I was driving the other day when the engine threw a sparkplug. It stripped the threads inside the head and I had to re-thread it and put a new plug in.
A friend told me it shot out because of the aluminum heads? That it reacted with the steel of the sparkplug. Is this true? Or is it just because the engine is old? (I have 256,000 miles on it)
Ok so I have a 97 f150 4.6 Windsor motor it recently started doing this I have put in a new water pump heater core newer thermostat and intake gaskets as well as plugs and wires. It smells a little like gas in the reservoir . I had this problem once before so I replaced the thermostat and it looked to have that copper liquid heater core fix in it from the previous owner trying to fix the heater core so I thought it might've been that again but I stuck the thermostat in a boiling pot of water and it opened so I don't think that's my problem I'm wondering could be the intake gaskets leaking because the oil is clean I'm praying it's not a head gasket..
View 11 Replies2001 F150, about 3 weeks ago I drove through standing water that was probably about 2 feet deep, as soon as I did that the truck started jumping real bad and almost died. I drove it around for a little while and it started to run better. After that it started to feel like it was misfiring badly. Between 40 -50 mph on the highway just giving it gas a little the jumping was pretty bad.
I decided to change out the plugs, thought maybe water got onto them and this was causing the issue, this was my first time changing the plugs in the truck and it was not nearly as bad as it could have been! I was able to do all of the plugs except number 7. The fuel injection line is right on top of that plug and I did not want to remove it!
After changing the 7 plugs the truck is running better now, I have not yet felt the jumping that was happening, my problem is that on the 4 plugs on the passenger side all 4 looked to be covered in oil. My question is does this mean my head gasket is blown and how long do I have before I am going to have to put alot of money into this truck to fix this issue?
I have 460 7.5L gasoline engine on a RV. After driving 300 miles straight and the front start smoking and I pulled over and saw the transmission fluid just shooting out from right in front of the trans oil pan, hot and steaming. Also saw the trail of oil a mile from where I stopped. All oil are gone. Next day go back and put in 2.5 gallons of oil until I see the oil dripping down the bottom. Drove to Aamco transmission, 12 miles down in 20 min. Nothing happen, not a drop coming out.
I left it there in the parking lot on Sunday. Today the shop called and said they found nothing wrong. They said I just overfill it and they drain down 1.5 quart, it is all fine now. Then I told them the story. I said the oil were shooting out and all empty out. I put in 2.5 gallons , not quarts. They said it didn't make any sense. I don't know what to tell them. The RV is still in his shop and he said he will look at it more and see what he find.
I bought a 3" "Godsnow" catback exhaust off of ebay to experiment (and i needed a new exhaust since my old one was wrecked and I was low on funds). I did alot of research before i made the purchase and took advice from Slimjimmn, a guy who did the same thing. I talked to him and he seemed pretty happy with his purchase. During the video I just rev the car up and i did notice it slightly shooting flames, something i didnt really notice previously. Im not sure exactly if its unburned fuel or a rich condition but thats not the code my CEL is currently throwing (coolant issues).
View 24 RepliesIt makes a weird 'fppp' air shooting noise before the exhaust note and my 2003 gti vr6 makes the exact same noise. It sounds like it's coming from the intake manifold valve and not really the filter, but I'm not sure and yes my filter is clean, the noise also sounds a little bit more obnoxious and problematic in real life. What it is, I thought it was a vacuum leak but I don't wanna bring it in till i know exactly what it is,
View 2 RepliesFor reasons I can't figure, the Temp gauge on the wife's Explorer is shooting from normal to high in just seconds. Then, it drops back to normal. When I looked at it this afternoon, I noted 2 things.
1) There was no sign of a coolant leak or overheating.
2) There wasn't ANY coolant in the tank!!!!!!!
The truck has evidently been running fine while this is going on.
One of my accessory plugs has gone dead. The manual said to check a fuse, and it was bad, so I replaced it. Now all under hood fuses test good using an ohm meter. Still dead at the plug. There is one acc. plug mounted in the console below the radio, and one in the console storage area -- the one under the radio is dead. All that plastic looks difficult to disassemble - how to troubleshoot such a thing. My guess is there is a fusible link along the harness to the upper console plug, but where, and what does it look like?
I know the devices are good, they work in the lower socket. ONE socket is good, the other dead.
I had a spark plug break on me and it caused a misfire. I took it in and the mechanic replaced all spark plugs and wires. After getting the car back, I experience an occasional engine hiccup here and there. Took it back to the mechanic and told me that he cleaned off the valves of carbon build up. This did not alleviate the current symptoms. It is more noticeable while I am idling. It feels like a jolt. It appears to be worse after a cold start. I do not have a check engine light or do I notice the RPM needle go wild. What is the mechanic missing? What could still be wrong with the engine? Vehicle is a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE, 6cyl, 3.8L ....
View 5 RepliesSo my wife was just out earlier today when she complained that her A/C wasn't working. So I did some research and got some A/C Recharge for it. Still nothing. It's not shooting out hot/cold air. I cannot even feel or hear the A/C starting at all.
View 3 RepliesMy latest issue is not having wiper fluid shoot out of the dispenser units to the wipers. I think it may be frozen, but the weather has only gotten warmer since it worked last.
What's odd is that, even if frozen, I would think one side might work and the other would not, but neither works. I can hear the pump trying to squirt it out, but nothing.
I would rather fix it myself if I could. I have already taken the car to the dealership four times in the last month (steering rack 2X, catalytic converter, lower vent not working)....
I did top it off with fluid last night, but there was/is already plenty in there.
My 1999 5.4l runs great then after driving about 20 minutes, surges & stalls if you try to accelerate. Then the idle surges from 600 to 1500 (back and forth). Connected a fuel pressure gauge, and it shows 30 then drops to near 0 then bounces back to 30 then near 0, then back to 30 etc. No codes are reporting. What to check? Let it cool down, process repeats. Has new fuel pump & filter.
View 4 RepliesSo my 99 F150 never got great MPG, but at least she was between 12 and 14 pretty consistently. However, she's spent a lot of time sitting, and now the MPG is right at 8. 9 or higher would be shocking. Any guess as to why this is? I know that engines need to be run now and again, but I can't beat 20+ MPG in my car and 40+ on my motorcycle, so she sits. I try to take her out once a month for a good drive to get everything heated up and moving and to burn any condensation that got in the oil. She's got fresh oil (not even 500 miles and 6 months), clean air filter, and fresh plugs and wires. I've also treated the gas with Sta-Bil at the proper mixture.
View 1 RepliesDrove my car on Wednesday morning for about 5 minutes, when I parked and turned it off, sensed a really bad and strange smell but couldn't pinpoint if it was the car, or the parking garage at home (which is underground, locked), or outside. Dismissed it from my mind. Two hours later, drove the car to work (10 minutes) parked it in underground garage. Turned engine off. Coming from hood on the right side. Got out, thinking I would lift the hood and have a look but as I approached right side of car I could see flames shooting out from underneath the right headlight (could see the flames through the headlight). Took a bit of time to find water hose in the parking garage but finally got it out.
Car is a write off.... absolutely was not sabotaged, no arsonists, nothing ..... Toyota guy from Toyota place across the street walked over to have a look, said it was a total loss. Doesn't seem like Toyota is really concerned either! I was really shaken as I feared that there could be a chain reaction of all the parked cars going up in flames. Smoke was thick, people were choking... seems that other than getting a cheque from the insurance, there is nothing I can do to find out the cause of the fire. People keep saying in various forums that nothing is located on the right..that could catch on fire.
Where is the thermostat located on a 5.4 1999 engine.
View 1 Replies1999 F-150 Sport 4x4
So the deal is I had to use a slim jim to open up my truck door the other day. Door still locks/unlocks fine, only not with the key. Key will still fit & turn the barrel without any prob. just doesn't engage the lock. Took the door panel off and it looks as if the Rod that connects the inside of the key barrel to the lower (part)? not familiar w/name. has come loose.
Looking for a diagram/picture of how it should look to get everything put back together so the key'll work again. Sucks unlocking passenger side and climbing over to open driver door.
1999 f250 ld, 5.4.
Started running rough, checked codes. Initially got po300, po304. Reset, and when I checked again, had po171.
Checked the PCV lines, and found a split right near the throttle body. Of course. broke the plastic tube trying to pull it off. Replaced the short piece of hose with a longer piece to make up for the broken plastic tube.
Now, po171 is gone, but the others remain.
Cylinder # 4 looks impossible to get to. I would like to swap COPs to see if the code moves.
A. does this make sense?
B. how the hell to I get back there?
At a minimum, it looks like I have to disconnect a bunch of hoses, and maybe even remove the fuel rail.
1999 F150. The truck is a 4X4 supercab, with the 4.6 motor, 141,000 mi. During cold weather it runs great, but as soon as the temp gets into the upper 70's or higher I have a recurring problem. The truck starts right up and runs well, but when it is shut off it will not restart until it has sat for over an hour. It has also stalled at speed on the freeway when the outside temp was in the upper 90's to low 100's.
So far it has always restarted after sitting for awhile. I took it to the dealer and they kept it for 3 days, but could not duplicate the problem and found no codes in the computer. I replaced both coils, but it is still not starting after shut down when hot. My next thought is to change the PCM, but that is a big chunk of change to be guessing about.
I have a '99 F-150 SC, 4x4, 4.6L, with 48,000 miles. I drove approximately 15 miles, then parked for 20 minutes. When I returned, the truck wouldn't do anything when the key was switched to start. It's as though there was no power going to the starter. Could it be a problem with the immobizer system, or just a freak incident with how I handled the key? The truck ended up starting after another 15 minutes and has consistantly started for the remainder of the day.
View 4 RepliesMy 1999 4X4 is allergic to snow! In the morning, after a blowing snow night, the transmission won't shift up. 15 miles or more in low, sometimes second, before it will find drive. Something gets wet! It only happens right around the freezing point. Maybe the Manual Lever Position Switch, or whatever it's called, on the side of the trans?
Also the throttle hangs up and it wants to race about 2000 RPM at the same temp. That could be ice in the throttle body. Shut it off for five minutes and it's OK, but it darn near put me into a snowplow yesterday when it wouldn't slow down.
I have a 1999 f150 4.2l that the abs light comes on going slow, under 25mph. Replaced speed sensor still there. Hook up my scan tool and get connection error. Only in abs mode. Check fuses and power point's. Scanner works on a buick fine.
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