Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Smells Like Oil In Coolant Reservoir
Feb 8, 2017
I have a 99 Ford F-150 Lariat. I am smelling oil in my coolant reservoir. I have looked all over the engine and do not see any leaks. I do not see any oil on the ground. The truck does not overheat so I don't know how it is getting in. My engine runs great. What can be causing this problem?
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I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
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I have a 1999 4x2 F150 XL, 4.2L engine, 5-speed trans., about 197,600 miles and have been getting P0306 and P0174 codes. The check engine light came on and stayed on. Also, pretty much randomly, my engine over-heats and the engine compartment coolant reservoir is suddenly dry as a bone. I bought the truck new and this has only happened twice, during normal driving.
Clearing the 0306 and 0174 codes. Not sure what to do about the over-heating thing.. What I've done so far to try to clear the codes is the least expensive stuff:
=> Replaced both forward O2 sensors, have read where the two rear O2 sensors don't necessarily need to be replaced so I haven't replaced them yet. The sensors that came off are Bosch, as are the ones that I bought from Autozone and installed.
=> Replaced old spark plugs with Motorcraft brand, gapped to 0.054 in.
=> Replaced old spark plug wires with Motorcraft spark plug wires.
=> Cleaned the MAF sensor
=> Replaced PCV valve and replaced an section of elbow hose near it. The original elbow had a big hole right at the 90-degree bend, on the inside.
=> Replaced a cracked, dried-out, vacuum hose coming from the evap cannister purge valve and going to the front underside of the upper intake manifold.
=> replaced fuel filter.
After doing all this, I took it out on the road long enough for the computer to wake up and relearn and got the check-engine light again. Only this time it was flashing. I gather from reading in this forum that a flashing CEL is worse than a constant-on CEL so I drove back home and have yet to take it back out.
After reading about problematic ignition coils, I followed a procedure in my Haynes manual to check mine out:
=> Verified the correct resistance values at the electrical connector (0.7 ohms),
=> Verified battery voltage is present at the harness side of the electrical connector (about 12.6 volts),
=> checked the resistance values between the three sets of 'towers'. Starting from front to back, the resistance readings were 13.06 kOhms, 13.12 kOhms, and 12.98 kOhms. The correct range in the Haynes book is 6.5 to 11.5 kOhms so I thought maybe my ignition coil was bad.
I located a Motorcraft ignition coil at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts store, went there, and was able to check the resistance values on that new one. Turns out the resistance on the new one at the parts store is pretty much the same as that on the one on my truck (all three coils were 13.something kOhms), so I haven't replaced the ignition coil. I guess either my Haynes book is probably incorrect or the ignition coil on my particular F150 has different resistance values than the rest of the vehicles covered by that manual.
Next things I'm looking at replacing:
=> egr valve and the associated line to the DPFE sensor. (DPFE replaced a few years back, as a result of a P0401 code)
=> iac valve
=> upper intake plenum gaskets
I'm kind of at a loss at this point. I hate to just continue replacing things without knowing that I'm replacing the right things.
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Today on a little road trip about 250 miles everything was going well then towards the end i was about to arrive when the temp gauge rose about a quarter inch from where it normally runs and i stopped at a gas station and all my coolant started rushing and boiling out of the top of my reservoir, I let the truck cool down and removed the cap and i lost all the coolant in the reservoir i bought two jugs and filled it back up and fired her up and the temp is back to normal and was not leaking from anywhere.
Hit the road again for the rest of the roughly 35 miles of the trip to my camp no smoking or lack of power then through a little sand and mud and she stayed cool. I was towing a small single axle utility trailer with a atv and was going 65-70 whole way. Truck has never had a problem with anything in the year and a half i have had it. Just hit 250k. What could this have been? Its holding all the coolant its been in there for a couple hours now without leaking. Thermostat maybe stuck for a second? Or a air bubble?
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My 1999 mercury mountaineer 4.0 smells like coolant there r no visible leaks overflow is at the normal the temp gauge didn't go high and the cap is cold IM kinda confused...........
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I have a 97 f 150 with the 4.2 bad miss on # 6 changed plugs and wires still missing. Also have a bad tick and exhaust smells like fuel. Check engine light is blinking.
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1997 GEO Tracker has a sloshing of coolant and then the coolant is eventually blown out. The car isn't overheating at this point. Recently I put Blue Devil in the radiator to fix a slightly blown head gasket. I don't seem to be losing oil now, but can't figure where the sloshing is coming from.
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Two autumns ago I lost heat and discovered I had no coolant because the reservoir had cracked. Replaced the reservoir and life was warm again. The following autumn, same thing. Replaced the reservoir AGAIN. The mechanic showed me where it had bulged out on the side, and said if this new one looks like it is swelling out also, then there is a deeper problem, like maybe a leaking head gasket. Well, it is definitely bulging on the side again. I mentioned this problem to my male co-workers and they were puzzled and also thought the mechanic's suggestion was incorrect.
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My son and I just rebuilt a '99 4.6L motor. A complete overhaul.
After running the motor for 15-25 minutes, I removed the oil filter and discovered a milky substance as I emptied it. I emptied the oil pan and found more water in the oil.
We removed the oil pan and did a coolant system pressure test, but didn't see any coolant coming from the bottom of the engine.
Is there anywhere other than the head gaskets where the 2 can mix or is this a normal occurrence during the break in period? The truck has not been driven anywhere yet.
I did not replace the head bolts with brand new. They were torqued properly tho.
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I just purchased a 2007 Ford F250 5.4l V8. I noticed the coolant reservoir was a bit low so I went out and bought some Prestone extended life universal coolant, distilled water and a hydrometer. The current Coolant I have is a yellow/gold colour, which I believe is motocraft brand. I added 150ml 1:1 of distilled water and coolant. After that I tested the temperature rating and it was off the gauge (the previous owner obviously added just coolant and no water). My plan was to drain the radiator half way and refill with distilled water. But, how to do that I came across a lot of forums saying you can't mix Prestone ELT with Motocraft coolant or it will eat away at your engine as well as create a thick goo. Is this true? Will such a small amount (75ml) cause this effect? Do I have to do a radiator flush now, or can I just continue with my plan of draining it half way? The old coolant looked pretty clean. Do you think the Prestone anti freeze has already done any damage?
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My truck is leaking behind the engine. There is not any coolant on top of the engine. It's leaking above the transmission and running down the passage sides. Are there any hoses that could be leaking behind. Sometimes it leaks a lot other times it doesn't leak at all. The shop thinks it's a freeze plug but wouldn't it be leaking more if it was?
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02 v10 SD. I found a crack in the coolant tank on my 02 Superduty. It is below the radiator cap, just above the crack where it was sealed from the factory. It runs the length of the tank, about 2 and 1/2 inches, across the front top section. Its starting to seep through,but the radiator is still holding pressure. Have any of you with the older Superduty's had this happen to your trucks? What caused or is causing it. I called the Ford dealer tonight about a new one.
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Any hows I have a 08 186,000 miles with a 6.4 , my problem is it is dumping coolant out of the reservoir. local dealer has got me for $4000,00 as of today and has not fixed truck yet. Here is whats been done. New radiator cap , new radiator, new egr cooler . when I test drove it today still did same thing. only does this with my gooseneck hooked to it.
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I am new to fords i have an 06 f250 6.0 lariat i just replaced head gaskets and studded the heads with egr delete with new oil cooler ..my issue is now the truck wont start it trys but wont run and i have coolant spitting out from reservoir and its smoking from it as well. I really don't want to have to spend the money on a shop to rebuild it...
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Ok so I have a 97 f150 4.6 Windsor motor it recently started doing this I have put in a new water pump heater core newer thermostat and intake gaskets as well as plugs and wires. It smells a little like gas in the reservoir . I had this problem once before so I replaced the thermostat and it looked to have that copper liquid heater core fix in it from the previous owner trying to fix the heater core so I thought it might've been that again but I stuck the thermostat in a boiling pot of water and it opened so I don't think that's my problem I'm wondering could be the intake gaskets leaking because the oil is clean I'm praying it's not a head gasket..
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I purchase an 03 passat v6 2.8l today. After it warms up it will push the coolant out of the reservoir. Note, it's not overheating. The guy I bought it from said the coolant reservoir exploded on thursday. He said his local mechanic said it needs head gasket. What's ur take on it? When I remove the over flow hose from the reservoir and increase the rpm, very little coolant comes out. After I let go of the pedal, the coolant gushes out on the over flow hose. Thermostat is opening. Guy said the water pump, thermostat and belts were replaced last year. The problem started Thursday when the old reservoir exploded. I was thing of replacing the belts , water pump and thermostat with oem.
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.My Nissan Murano, 2003 is acting up after a ton of diagnostics and repair . We replaced thermostat, flushed heat core, replaced coolant pipe which had rusted and leaked out fluid, and ran air bubbles out forever, it seemed. The heater does not work now on lower rpm's and the car was gurgling the other day when i stopped at mailbox. I have been driving it for a few weeks since we had it repaired.When i pulled in into garage, it was overflowing at reservoir for coolant. We have not driven it and our mechanic is perplexed. He ruled out head gasket problems with chemical test and another diagnostic test. . . .he is perplexed. He added coolant and what else. . .. .that is all i can think of . should we get it towed to dealer which is 100 miles away? we've already spent 1500 or so with this and it seems we could be back at square one. Our mechanic is very honest, and he does think it could be in the engine, like a warped plastic piece. . . i don't know what he said exactly, but he's just guessing.We have 128k on this engine.
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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I have a 99 Honda civic LX 4 cyl. There is an oily residue in the coolant reservoir an on the fill tube but when the radiator is opened the coolant is clean. The car is using oil but not running rough or hot. There is no tailpipe smoke or evidence of leakage. I am planning to do a compression check and look at the plugs.
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1999 Honda CRV. Just took a 3-hour highway trip. Before trip I topped up coolant reservoir which was a little low, but radiator was full. I did notice some dried white spots on the front of valve cover and spark wires. Wasn't sure what it was, but now realize it was coolant residue. Probably only 1-2 cups were missing from the reservoir, so the leak had just started.
After 3 hour trip, checked engine compartment again. This time the reservoir was totally empty (radiator still full) and the engine was well sprayed with greenish coolant residue. The radiator was cool by the time I checked it, so the leak source wasn't obvious, but it looks to be coming from the seam where the plastic top meets the aluminum.
I will replace the radiator when I get home, but first have to drive the 3-hour return trip. Will it be OK as long as I start full of coolant and keep an eye on the temp gauge?
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I have a 1997 4.2 and when i got it the big vacuum reservoir under the passenger fender had the lines broke off. Where these lines go or have a diagram...
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