Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Ratchet Extension To Remove The Bottom Bolt?
Jun 18, 2012
My 1999 Ford F-150 failed inspection for frayed driver-side seatbelt (a common problem according several parts sellers). I have obtained a used shoulder harness assembly from a salvage yard but I have two questions:
What is size of the Torx bolts? (the star shaped ones) Looks like T55 but I don't have any to compare. I'll need to buy the socket and I assume a generic version will fit my ratchet.
The top part of the harness looks simple enough to remove but do you need a ratchet extension to remove the bottom bolt?
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What the torque spec is for the driveshaft to rear differential flange mounting bolts on the 99 F150 4x4 supercab?
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I have a 1999 f150 v6. Top starter bolt fell out while driving it seems. Local parts store had no way to look it up. Need to know the size, length I need? Only car I got so I am stuck walking.
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Went to change the plugs on an 02 f350, the bolt holding the plug wire boot on doesn't seem to fit any standard size socket. 7 is too big, 6 is too small. 1/4 is too small, 9/32 is too big.
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2006 F350 4X4 .. How in the heck do you get to it? I have that massive heat shield in the way and can't get a shot at even those bolts? One bolt left to get out then I can start going back together.
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I have a problem my slave cylinder went out on my f150 so my buddy and I decided we were going to fix the problem. But while I was in there I figured I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, rear seal, and obviously the cylinder. When I was putting the flywheel on the "first time" i must have stripped out 3 holes because of not having the flywheel properly aligned. So I tapped out the holes to clean up threads and when we finally aligned the flywheel on the crank to right position I went to go torque down all the bolts three of the bolts would just keep on spinning in the hole. Now keep in mind I replaced all the old bolts with brand new ones from the dealer. What can I do to fix this problem I need my truck back asap!!! Can I go to a longer bolt to hit good threads or what do I do? I'm worried about my motor going out of balance if I mess something up here!!!
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I have a 1997 f150 4x4 and i got some new shocks for it, but I got the top nut off but the bottom bolt is almost stripped, so I am gonna buy new bolts and remove the old ones, so my question is what size bolt do I need ? I am assuming grade 8 but what length and diameter? and whats the best to remove the old bolt if it completely strips ? grinder ? drill?
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My wifes 01 Supercrew had the tailgate cable pop off the other day- it came unscrewed from the tailgate. I went to screw it back in, but there is nothing to screw it into. Whatever was there to accept the bolt is gone. There seems to be an access panel on the tailgate (appx. 48 x 8) that I cant seem to get off- it like its being held in place from inside but I cant see how. I slightly bent up the panel trying to remove it, then lightly tapped it back in place- now I have a ding on the outside finish. So, what was in there to hold the bolt, can I just use a regular nut with a washer if I can get my fingers in there, and whats with the access door ?
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Let's start from the beginning. I have an 03 f150. After loading it up for a big kayak trip, it wouldn't start. The odo read all blanks and the theft light was blinking rapidly( for about a min, then the "16 code")
Soo I checked all the fuses and relays with multimeter and they all checked fine. Checked all the connections and everything else right in front of me.
Soo this is where I'm stumped. On the pcm relay, I get constant power on the bottom pin. I also get power when the key is on to the right pin. The ground is good(left pin), as I used it for the test.
Now if I jump power from the battery to the top pin the truck starts right up. No theft light, and the odo is fine. So I replaced the relay, even though it tested fine, because that had to be it...right? Still nothing...
Not really sure what that means, or where to look.
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I have a 1999 ford f150 4.6 engine and it has an exhaust leak but wondering what is the procedure to remove a broken bolt and the rest of the bolts on the manifold
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I've got a 97 truck, broke the crank, swapped in a motor from an 07. Heads down is 07, intake up is 97. had heads planed and a valve job with new seals done. Left it alone from the rings down. Got it in this weekend, running today. Ran it in the driveway with no load for about 30 minutes, top end was noisy for about 5 minutes till the top end got good and oily (I'm assuming). Purred like a kitten, sounded real smooth. Took it for a drive around the block, heard the clatter in the video below. It's almost always there when driving. Brought it back, turned it off to check oil, it was a quart low. Added oil, startup was VERY labored with a real hard knock in the bottom end. Ran like poo till I gave it some throttle for a couple seconds, then it cleaned up and idled well. Let it run for a couple minutes, turned off and let it sit for a couple minutes then started back up, same thing. Very labored with hard knocking.
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I was in the process of changing out rotor and pads and my caliper bracket bolts while loosening them. The weird part is the bolt was turning in the process. The passenger side was easy as pie. The drivers side has me stuck. I have tried to drill out the broken bolt but noting is working. I don't know where to go from here. I have already purchased a new caliper and the bracket that goes with it. I just need to get this old one off so I can move on.
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I was trying to replace the output sensor in my 5r110 when it broke off in the housing.
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Starter Removal, The top bolt is a bugger.
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1998 F150 4.6L. Pretty sure EGR is bad. Clogged ports cleaned, DPFE changed, etc. Tried the suck test on EGR, no change. Still getting 401 code. Ports were really bad, so I figure EGR is clogged/bad also.
Here's the problem....I can't get the nut loose that holds the tube from the manifold onto the EGR. It is on the back side of the EGR facing the firewall. Not a whole lot of room to work with, but I can get a 1-1/16 wrench on it. I have tried soaking it in PB, heating the EGR body with propane, beating on it with everything I can find, and it still won't budge.
If I unbolt the EGR from the TB, I have no leverage on it.
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First of all... do I need to remove both, the restraining bolt AND nut to remove the tie rod end... if yes, than this bolt seized, the nut is easy but even if I punch the bolt it wont move... ??
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So I was in the process of doing a turbo swap to the borg warner sxe366 and the freeze plug that plugs the old mechanical fuel pump in the valley had to be removed well needless to say, it as well as the safety bolt I had attached to it fell into the motor, seperatly. I'm already getting the motor ready to be pulled but what are the odds that they made it to the oil pan or if they didn't any way to make them fall out?
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When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it. 2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
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I just recently had to replace the extension housing on my truck. Well after doing so I went to start it up and top off the tranny fluid and it started to leak out on the left rear side of the transmission near the extension housing. Ive looked and looked and found that the fluid is coming from the top right in front of the extension housing but when i clean it off there seams to be no holes or cracks. It isn't the housing seal, cause it pools in front of that. What could be the issue? My truck is a 01 F250 4X4 5.4L.
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Car: 02 Passat GLX 4motion V6 AWD
I'm in process of replacing the rear strut and I can't remove the way bar link bolt out. It is really tight into the inner rubber and it won't buzz. The bolt sits in a way that I can't use a hammer.
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So I received my International bellowed up pipes from Riffraff and I figure I will start soaking all of the bolts with some aerokroil before I get started on monday and I see the very last bolt head near the up pipe is gone. The bolt is there but the head is gone and you can definitely see soot buildup everywhere near it. I don't know if I should order a new manifold for the passenger side and new bolts, order a driver and passenger side manifold and new bolts, or just order one set of new bolts and try to get take the passenger side manifold off and replace the one broken bolt.
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