Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - No Power In Gear
May 21, 2016
I have a 1999 f150 with a 4.6L 2wd 278k miles. I got this truck from my cousin about a year ago and it ran ok but not much power. It sat a few months and I tried to start it and nothing. I replaced the fuel filter and pump and battery. It starts but runs very rough. I then replaces both coil packs, plugs and wires. It idles rough but seems to run fine in park besides some popping and shuttering when I give it gas until the rpms are up around 3k, it smooths out.
I put it in gear and it completely looses power and barely wants to move. Only code that showed was the egr, I removed and cleaned and no change besides no codes at all now. it still will barely move. I have looked for any vacc lines that might have came off but do not see any out of place. the heater core has been bypassed and exhaust has leaks from someone welding on new exhaust and not being able to weld good. Also it smells like it is running rich.
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I only hear it in gear under load so I can't stick my head under the hood to pin point it. I dont see any black streaks and I replaced the EGR tube. Is it commonly just the gasket or do the manifolds crack? If they crack where?
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I have a '99 f150 singlecab xl sport 4.2 2wd 5spd with 139,xxx miles on her. Shes's a good truck, but second gear is shot, I can only get into it by double clutching, and that only sometimes works. I have a couple questions, the first one being what do yall think the problem is. To me and my friends it seems like the syncro mesh. Second, if it is something major, is it even worth saving the truck? I know she isn't worth a ton but I hate to go through the hassle of selling and buying a car.
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I have a 99 f150 with 171xxx miles and the other day it suck in second gear and start shaking and misfiring and would stall out. I took the truck and got the codes read and it threw codes for the tcc solenoid and shift solenoid. I put both in the transmission and it kepy doing the same thing. I check fuse 24 under the hood and it was blown, I replaced it and everything worked fine for a day then it blew the fuse 2 more times and i cant figure out why it is blowing that fuse. I cant find any shorts maybe pcm??
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1999 f150 5.4 it's been over 3 months since It happened I hit a pretty big mud hole and right after it starts bogging and running rough and won't drive I made it home and second and I've been driving it around town in second gear since. I've been trying different things since it happened, It runs rough in drive, reverse, neutral, and first (towing gear) but revs up just fine in second (towing gear).
So far I've
- Checked all fuses
- Changed plugs checks coil packs
- Dropped pan changed tranny fluid and filter
I broke a heater core line so I replaced the intake manifold and got a good look at everything and cleaned it out
- Cleaned throttle body
- Checked all connections
- Checked all vacuum hoses
- Replaced maf sensor
- Pulled the codes but I don't have them handy.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 with the 4.6 Motor approx 150000miles. Transmission went out so I decided to try and replace it...
New/rebuilt tranny went in with no problem but something is not right. It will drive but seems like it is stuck in high gear and bogs the motor down. It is giving me error codes P1747, P0750, P0755, P0743, P0102. All the wiring harness is in good shape with no burns or other noticeable problems. Somehow the transmission isn't reading right?
When I bought this rebuilt transmission I was told it was set up for 2wd but he would convert it for 4wd. The only difference i noticed with the new tranny is the shaft coming out of the tranny, where the safety neutral switch is, has a diamond shape instead of the oval shape that connects the shifter cable. No big deal i think, just had to buy a new link for the shifter cable with the diamond.
Also on the passenger side of the tranny there is a nine pin plug. My wire harness from the truck has one pin hole that is opposite of the tranny. Not sure why. Do I need a new harness or wrong tranny?
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I just replaced my power steering pump and gear box and I flushed the system until the fluid came out good. I have done the whole lock to lock and pump the brakes but nothing is getting better.
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I have an early 99 f350. when i got the truck the OD switch(maybe light too) didn't work. i ran it for about 1k mi. yesterday i left work to come home and i didn't have 1st or 2nd gear but still had 3rd and od. the only way to get 2nd is to manually put it in 2nd gear. 1st seems to be nowhere around.
I do not have a code reader and wont for at least a month or so. I did install a simple ts6 in it, that's about all i did with the truck.
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I noticed my '99 started getting difficult to get in gear & shift, within a coupe of days the peddle was barely off the floor before it would engage. A day later it started 'creeping' if started while in gear. Replaced the master/slave cylinders with no change.
Is a clutch replacement the next step? Just thought I would ask before throwing money at it, since the only other times I've had clutch issues there was slipping or it just plain exploded.
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I have a '99 F-150 SC, 4x4, 4.6L, with 48,000 miles. I drove approximately 15 miles, then parked for 20 minutes. When I returned, the truck wouldn't do anything when the key was switched to start. It's as though there was no power going to the starter. Could it be a problem with the immobizer system, or just a freak incident with how I handled the key? The truck ended up starting after another 15 minutes and has consistantly started for the remainder of the day.
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I have a 99 F150 v6 and the radio stopped working. No power to the radio and no power to fuses 20(5A-Audio, GEM Module, Powertrain ControlModule (PCM)) & 21(15A-Starter Relay, Clutch Switch, Fuse 20). I have switched the fuses out, but the new ones don't show any voltage on either side as well. All other fuses seem to be good.
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I need to replace the cable on my gear shift indicator. Of course you can't just replace the cable. I have even looked on you tube and not found anything. I don't know if maybe I am using the wrong search terms or not.
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I just got a new redhead steering gear installed by a shop. it made turning the wheel much more laborious so redhead sent me another gear but after that one was installed it was the same way. it also had about a half an inch of play and when the truck is not moving i cannot really turn the wheel at all. is this normal?
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My brother is having a issue with his 99 F350 diesel automatic tranny pu. When in manual 1rst gear the engine stumbles and runs like crap. In drive or 2nd gear it runs fine. He's getting a code for a bad cam sensor. A new OEM and aftermarket sensor has been tried with no solution to the engine problem. What might be going on?
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Well, I think my clutch is falling apart. I am hearing an intermittent nasty noise coming from somewhere in the bell housing/oil pan area. It comes and goes, but seems to be more frequent lately. It sounds like a dryer that somebody threw a pair of sneakers and some rocks in; with a metallic clunking noise of something being "churned" around. As I said, sounds almost exactly like the dryer thing.
The clutch does not seem to be slipping, but I do occasionally have difficulty getting it into gear at a stop. I'm guessing that the clutch disc has thrown a hub spring, and its rattling around in the bell housing. Assuming I need a clutch; which I think I do, I need selecting one. I have no history on the clutch or flywheel, so I will assume that I need a new flywheel to match whatever clutch I get.
I can't get a stock replacement, due to the injectors/chip/etc.... I would estimate I am making about 350hp/700ft-lbs. I don't tow currently, but I may pull a car trailer in the future. I DO haul heavy loads in the bed (4,000lbs) on a regular basis. I also drive/shift aggressively, as well as shifting quickly. While I spend a decent amount of time on the highway, I also do a lot of stop and go stuck in traffic driving; so smooth engagement is important. So, no ceramic/ceramic in/out type clutches.
I do NOT want a South Bend. I don't want a super soft pedal. Also, the whole pedal-sticking-to-the-floor thing they mention is unacceptable. Personally, I think they should be ashamed of themselves for putting out a product with such an obvious unsafe design/engineering flaw, and then try to explain it away as "normal". Nope. They need to go back to the drawing board and fix that. As I said, it constitutes a serious safety hazard.
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I have a 2000 Excursion, with about 199k miles on it, 2WD, Automatic. Recently started running rough, but only when in gear. Seems to occur more when in reverse. But, within the last few days, i have noticed it starting to run rough while in park. You can rev up the engine and let it settle, and it will sound fine, run fine. Don't see any issues while driving it, between the engine or the trans.
I am leaning towards the injectors being the issue, but not 100%. The engine also started sounding sloppy when shutting off, like it wouldn't stop rotation right when you kill it. It doesn't stay running, but has that extra clank, like it takes longer to stop. (Hard to describe it) I just put some cleaner in it yesterday, and i was going to see if that works only.
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I am having problems with my truck not sure where to start. It was my everyday truck until one day I got ready to leave for work and the truck wouldn't say anything. It was getting power but no crank no start. Called tow truck he checked battery said that it was good. I got home tried to start truck and it started. I drove to the store and it did the same thing no crank no start. It has 110,000 Sigle cab manual windows...
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2002 F350 7.3, MANUAL transmission ZF6.
Bought this truck used for hauling an excavator, and after fixing damn-near everything engine/turbo/and-cooling-system-related ---- it's finally seeing some use.
Just recently started hauling 12,000lb payloads. When I accelerate hard in Low gear, and then shift into 1st and accelerate hard again, I feel the whole truck shuddering. It's like a shimmy-shaking vibration all through the vehicle.
It doesn't happen in higher gears, only when the following conditions are met...
1) Starting from a dead stop
2) 12,000lb payload (heavy)
3) Accelerating hard (Low, First gear)
I would also like to add that I experienced this shuddering vibration very intensely when I put the transfer case in 4wd LOW (front manual hubs left unlocked) and towed 14,000lb up a steep hill in 1st, 2nd, and then 3rd transmission gears.
^^^ By leaving front hubs unlocked and transfer case in 4wd LOW, I was effectively lowering my final drive ratio even more for extra pulling power in 2wd hill-climbing. I don't do this often, only when absolutely necessary. ^^^
I must also add that I do have slightly taller rims/tires than OEM ford WITH the original ford gearing (3.73) so I'm more like 3.51 final drive ratio.
02 F350 7.3l ZF6
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So finally got my truck running due to a fuel issue. Anyways been driving it for a week or two now, and I have a strange problem idk if it has been covered here or not.
Driving around tow etc if you come to a light or whatever and stop the rpms stay at 800rpm. Now if you shift it out of gear and back into drive the rpms settle back down around 650. Where is should be.
My guess is the torque converter is not disengaged all the way when it stuck at high rpm (800-900) for this situation. No cel, slippage, or crazy noises
2002 7.3 power stroke all stock right now @160k black crewcab
Previous owner had a tunner on it but not anymore. Could it have smoke the trans???
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I have a 1999 F250 4-wheel drive with a 6-speed tranny. The tranny is several old but has only around 100k on a rebuild. Three times recently it has stuck in 6th gear (overdrive) and I had to get really rough with the stick to get to come out. Afterwards the stick felt "thick" for a while and eventually everything seems to go back to normal. Not for sure but it may have started after pulling a heavy load, around 16k, which is not unusual for the truck. Other than the times it stuck and shortly after, the tranny seems perfect.
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Ok, my clutch has been giving me trouble for a little bit and I'm almost positive that I have a bent release fork. It also slips under heavy acceleration in 6th gear. I am planning on doing a clutch, compete with flywheel and release fork and a new rear main seal. My problem is, here within the last couple of days the trans would pop out of 4th gear if I was just coasting. It has been getting noisy over the last few weeks also. I'm no manual tyranny expert, but this is making me think I'm gonna need to have it rebuilt.
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