Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - No A/C - Compressor Is Not Kicking On
Jun 1, 2012
4.6L engine.......Well my A/C isn't working I just found out. The compressor is not kicking on. I checked the charge with my gauges and it is good so I don't think the low limit switch tripped, but I don't have a manual or anything and was wondering which number relay and fuse goes to the A/C compressor.
I also need to know which fuse goes to the power mirrors as well. I downloaded a manual from the ford fleet site, but honestly I haven't gotten around to looking at it. Not home.
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Bought a 2014 SD 4x4 in December of 2013 and this is the second time the big girl has been to the shop with A/C problems. First time it was the evaporator about three or four months ago. During the last few weeks of the summer I began to smell something strange (like band-aids) when the A/C was on and it lingered until the next re-entry. ALso, began to hear a slight hissing noise when the compressor was kicking in and out. They replaced the evaporator, smell remained as they said it was the refrigerant I was smelling. About two or three weeks ago the smell got slightly "larger", and last weekend she would not cool. This is the fourth time shes been to the shop with other problems such as the My Touch system..............
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I was driving at 40 -30 mph on a dark street and rammed through a bit of water ( maybe 4" high and 6 feet across). So right after i got these tranny codes and my tranny went to safe mode kicking hard when shifting:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1783
Transmission Over Temperature Condition
P0712
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor Circuit Input Low
P1702
Transmission Concern
Luckily I was a block away from home. So i assumed all those sensors shorted with water ( I thought they were all water proof...hmm) so i let them dry.
So the codes went away and the truck seamed fine for 2 weeks until i felt the tranny kicking again into gears yesterday. So today i went on a test drive and it was fine at first until it went into safe mode again with only 2 codes:
P0705
Transmission Range Sensor Out Of Self Test Range Or Shorted To Ground
P1702
Transmission Concern
So, that means the other sensors dried out and i destroyed the TRS? and if so would it malfunctioning cause the tranny to go into safe mode or could there be some other issue?
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I am having issues with the wife's escape and the a/c compressor not kicking on(It will turn on for a split second when first fired up if the a/c is set to on but then turns right back off). I am getting a static pressure on the low side of 120 PSI, I have yet been unable to see what pressure shows when the compressor kicks on for a split second. I have confirmed the compressor relay is good and I don't see any blown fuses or anything else out of place.
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I took my car in to get this checked out, but they say they can't hear it.
Sometimes when I turn my car on right after I turn it on, there's a loud humming sound like a compressor or something is kicking on and it's not fully engaging. And it only makes the sound for maybe 3-5 secs. Sometimes it won't happen when I turn the car on, but when I'm driving and I let off the gas and go to touch the brakes, it'll start.
The best I can describe it is a 'hum'...but it's loud, and I can feel it as if it's near the gas pedal right behind the firewall.
Dealer thought maybe it was the ABS switch testing itself..but they could never reproduce....I got in after they replaced my rims and checked it...and it did it 4 times when I started it, then turned it off. He came out to check, and it was almost as if you couldnt hear it outside of the car.
So, what the sound might be...I can't reproduce it anytime I'm there. Figures...... but I hear it almost daily. He put some foam tape on the firewall behind the gas lines saying the 'pulsing' from them might be doing it...but it did it again this morning.
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So today, I planned on switching the belt, idler pulley and tensioner since at least two of them are making noises. After taking all of the stuff off, belt, idler pulley and tensioner... and since I always compare parts I buy to parts that were in, making sure they are identical and I didn't order the wrong one. So first up I checked my tensioner and the position of them or angles are different, completely different.
So Google it to view a few diagrams and bang! it hits me... the one I took out from my F150 is for a non-AC... so back into the truck and I'm looking. Didn't have to go far when I realized that my AC compressor is missing!!!!
I keep looking around and I see that yes, I did have AC in it before I got it; because the guts are there but sliced! Great, so the job went from easy and easy I mean buy compressor and install; but now since the guts were cut, the PO sliced the thing out simply put.
1.) What are the bolt sizes that hold the compressor in place?
2.) Is there a wire connector on the compressor? or no?
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My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
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I have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
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My air conditioning compressor is rattling and grinding. I am trying to determine if I need a whole new unit or just a clutch assy. I can say this, when running it's rattling, but when the clutch engages, it clears up.
Would I be right in assessing it's the clutch? 1998 250 5.4 .....
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I have a 2001 ford f150 with a 4.6 liter v8, my ac compressor is completely seized up, I can't afford to replace the ac right now. So I would like to just get a shorter serpentine belt to bypass the ac for now, need to get a measurement on the shorter belt for my engine? and the proper way to re route the belt without the ac?
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I got a 2001 f150 leaking freon on the back of the compressor, can't afford to fix this summer. When I add freon should I get the freon with oil in to get oil in the system or just add regular can of freon, it took about 6 weeks before I need to add any.
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Sunday afternoon I noticed my 97 F-150 4.2 5-Speed manual had a higher idle. When the AC compressor kicks in, the motor revs up higher than normal for about 4 secs then comes down a little. If you barely press the accelerator, I mean just gently touch it, the motor revs up for 4 secs. Dont have a tach, but just idling in neutral, is about 150 rpms more, and when AC compressor kicks in, rpms jump about 300 rpms i assume. Maybe vacuum, IAC??? Plugs, wires, and normal tune up done about 2400 miles ago.
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soo a friends 03 f-150 w/ the 4.6 has noticed the a/c compressor clutch engaging while heater is on. clutch engages for about 3 seconds or so and kicks back out consistently but only w/ the heater on. a/c dose function property when using a/c functions... Is this normal or does something need serviced???
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I drive a '99 F150 4x4 5.4 EFI 196,000 miles. Recently I started noticing a growling noise that followed engine speed. I immediately thought alternator going out. So I pulled the belt off and it spins free and doesn't feel rough at all.
So I started it up and realized the noise got a lot louder when the ac clutch cycled. Now I'm thinking ac compressor. A short trip to my mechanic who didn't even really look at it very long and he said the compressor is about ready to seize up. I thought I might just put on an ac bypass pulley to get by for a while. Not really a sound decision in the middle of July, I'm thinking, but I'm poor and it beats having the compressor lock up, right?
Today, when I get off work and pop the hood with the ac off and the clutch not engaged the noise is worse than ever. I put a stethoscope (long screwdriver, I told you I was poor) on the alternator and it is making all of the noise. Turned the ac on again and it was really making noise now. So I applied the stetho-driver to the ac compressor and it is quiet as can be.
I am cautiously optimistic that the alternator is the sole culprit and that it only gets louder when the ac cycles because of the extra drag on the belt.
Does that seem like a logical explanation? Should I just try the alternator? I really don't want to destroy a perfectly functioning ac system only to find out that it was OK to begin with and I don't want to buy a $150 alternator for no reason either.
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My 2003 F150's compressor cycles even when the a/c or defroster is not turned on. It has the climate control type of temperature system. This doesn't seem normal.
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I have a 97 f150 5.4 4x4 a/c compressor and clutch. It won't let my motor turn over because the ac compressor is locked up bc the bearings are shot is there any way to by fix this until i get a new compressor and clutch....
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I have a F150, 97, 4.6L. I changed my Suspension belt, and now my A/C compressor is not engaging. This has happened before, and when I took it to the shop, they called me and said the A/C works just fine. They did not tell me why the A/C stopped engaging or what they did. I tried to locate a relay fuse, but I can't find it.
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1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
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1999 Explorer XLT V6 4 Door. So my 4WD was randomly kicking in and out to the point that it was intolerable. Don't have the $$$ for a repair, so the mechanic disconnected the plug from the 4wd motor. Now the car is doing all sorts of crazy electrical stuff. Is there a way to more surgically disable the 4wd without the unwanted electrical freak-outs?
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So again the a/c in old green gave out. it has been an ongoing battle over the past few years, but this time I took it to a good friend who has all the right tools as our level of frustration dealing with it has peaked.
We removed everything, and got it all "new" from oh-rye-lees. a new compressor was installed a few weeks back and it worked fine, but cycled very strangely. it would rapidly kick in and out, then just stay engaged. found out the condenser was plugged up and thought maybe that was causing it.
At any rate, it now has a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, orifice tube, and low pressure switch. all the lines were flushed and checked.
it was vacuumed and checked, then charged with freon. The compressor is doing the exact same thing! it is cycling very strange. sometimes rapidly at higher rpm, and sometimes it works just fine. the a/c is working, but it is freezing up the drier, evaporator, and line all the way back to the compressor. vent temps are about 30.
The WOT relay and high pressure switch was replaced, and it did not make a difference. we are at a total loss.
We were told by another person that the clutch on the new compressor was too small and that was causing the issue. It measure 4.8" and we were told is is supposed to be 5.3". is there any truth to that? we just do not know what is causing this, but want to get it right as surely something will break if it stays this way.
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SO after reading about the air gap on AC compressor, i checked mine and it was large so I removed the shim and the gap was almost like new..
Now when I first switch on AC the compressor will click on and off several times especially at any RPM above 1000.
I hooked up hoses and tried it again with wife holding RPM in 1200. The high side would bounce from 100 to 400, compressor would cycle off and then back on in quick secession with high side bouncing back and forth for 10 seconds or if she let off pedal back to idle RPM.. low side was not moving a lot at this point but not bouncing like the high side. What can be causing the pressure issue? when it stabilizes the pressures are right on for OD temp according to charging chart for R-134a.
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