Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Intermittent No Start Condition
Mar 19, 2015
The Truck...
1999 F-150 Supercab
170K miles
4.6 Litre
Automatic Trans
The Problem... About every other day, I try to start the truck, and it doesn't fire at all. It cranks fine, everything seems right, but no start.
What I've done...
Replaced Fuel Pump Relay.. (no luck)
Sprayed Starting Fluid In and Cranked... It Fires On Fluid.
Other info...
This problem never lasts long, and the problem mysteriously fixes itself after no more than an hour.
This problem has occurred both when the truck was warm and completely cold.
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I have a 2000 f150 4wd 4.6. It wouldn't start this morning. A few years ago I had to change the inertia switch so my first move was to bypass that, which didn't work.
After that I gave it a shot of ether to see if it would hiccup and tell me if I had spark or not. It started up, ran rough while the air cleaner was off, then cleared up and ran fine, and is now starting/running fine again.
The problem is that I have to take the truck on a trip Saturday, and I can't figure out what the problem was if the truck is starting. What it could have been? No check engine light or anything either.
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2006 F150 4.2 fuel issue? I get an intermitent no start condition and no obd codes. Then I discover that it really isn't intermittent, it only occurs after I have been running the engine. It will not start for at least 5-10 minutes after I have driven a few miles and shut the engine off. So if I wait 5-10 minutes then she starts and runs just fine. I played with this in the driveway to recreate this condition so I could determine if I had a spark or fuel issue (I have spark during no start). I found that 50% of the time I could start it right back up immediately after I shut the engine off. But if I shut it off right away again, then I got the no start condition again and have to wait another 5-10 minutes.
Now with cold engine I can start the motor over and over. To fix this I read forum after forum, which led me to decide that I had a fuel pump driver problem (module) located on back axle under spare tire. I replaced this and restarted the engine many times. The problem seemed to be gone but this only lasted about 30 minutes. Then it would not start at all and still no codes. I plugged my old module back in and the truck fired right up. So I decided I needed to (flash) pcm for new part but that changes nothing. Still no start with new module and runs with old module. I also replaced relay in fuse panel.
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I own a 2006 Azera Limited. I've been experiencing intermittent problems starting it. It cranks fine but will not start? The battery is new.
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2008 Chrysler Sebring V6 hardtop convertible ... Intermittent no crank / no start condition – when turning key to start position, either you get nothing as if there is no battery connected and or a slight click as if the solenoid was trying to engage. The pattern can be nothing, nothing, nothing, click, click, nothing, startup or any combination of clicks or nothing, always resulting with a startup. Sometimes it will only be 3-4 attempts, other times 15-20. This occurs anywhere from every 15-20 starts to driving 2,000 miles from NH to FL without one failure.Completely random occurrence – no pattern can be seen – has been ongoing since September 2015 to now March 2016.
I have tried moving the shift lever and the steering wheel while it occurs, no change.Facts – battery was replaced 2-3 years agoAfter the first occurrence I yanked the battery, cleaned the terminals as well as the terminals under the hood. Over the next couple of months brought it to the dealer who could find no codes and of course it did not fail while they had it so they did nothing. In December I appealed to the service manager to replace the starter as I thought is sounded like a bad spot on the armature. He did so and also had the WIN module replaced. No issues until I was in FL weeks later. Here the dealer has replaced the PTC and TIPM modules and installed a redundant ground wire. The problem is still occurring. I’m down to under 400 miles on my 100k bumper to bumper warranty?
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2000 Ford 7.3 E450 120,000 miles...
I have changed the CPS twice
I have checked the resistance of the injectors at the IDM connector with a volt meter and the harness reports back good.
The truck will run with ether for a few seconds
I have changed the fuel filter.
The fuel bowl fills quickly
I have unplugged the ICP.
The truck is showing low voltage on the gauge with a good battery. Around 10v
I have connected my 200amp car starter and I never see over 10v. I plan to check the grounds, but I am at a loss.
Everything is difficult because this is a van body so space is limited. I have also plugged in the block heater for an hour and that hasn't made any difference. Where can I get the best price on an AE scanner.
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01 supercrew 4.6. Have had intermittent no start. The first few times it did start with a jump. Cranks fine but I thought the battery was weak. Replaced battery, same issue. 40 psi gas pressure at the fuel rail with analog gage. Theft light blinks with battery inserted. Theft light not illuminated while cranking. Battery light flashes while cranking. Battery is brand-new and charged. Opened and closed inertia switch several times to check.
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Its the 5.4 ....its been an ongoing problem...first it wiuld happen once a month starting maybe a year ago. Turn the key off and try again and it would start up easily. Gradually became more frequent...maybe a couple times a week now and sometimes taking more than one attempt. It died on me while driving last week...started easily again. Today after driving i parked it and a few minutes later it would not start even after 10 or so attempts....waited 10 or so minutes and started right...killed it and restarted 5 times easily. Brought it home killed it and it would not restart.
Now its starting again......so i cant troubleshoot something that is not working. I ruled out fuel pump/regulator because it is either running good or not at all and also it would not start immediately after killing it. There should be engage pressure in the lines to do something but its either a start or no start situation. Its not showing codes either....so I am guessing that rules out sensors....? ......so i guess something is causing a no spark or a no fuel inj. Pulse......... I have a cam sensor i bought a few weeks ago and never put on trying to aviid being stranded.
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I recently aquired an f150 from a tenant, it's an 2003 with 219k, v6. When you first start it all the dash lights and needles go berserk and it will only run for a second, if you press the trip button over and over until eventually the lights are solid it starts and runs fine. If you disconnect the battery for a while it will also start and run fine. What this is? Guy also said the intake runner control valve is stuck open, where is that at?
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back story but may have nothing to do with problem. battery terminal bolts were rusted solid so i cut them off and replaced. truck stated fine the last time i started it before doing this.
I turn key and get a single click. i tried jumping 2 large poles on fender solenoid and still one click no crank. i had taken off the starter and autozone tested and it passed. i checked voltages everywhere i could think of and all were as to be expected.
could it be the starter even though it passed?
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I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
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Wants to crank. I notice when I turn the key switch on (not start) the gas gauge pegs out as if a super full tank and no fuel pump noise. At times, leading up to the crank but no start condition, I would turn the key on, hear the fuel pump and the gas gauge would indicate proper fuel level. When this happened, the vehicle ALWAYS started.
Here what I know now;
1. Fuel pump works. As indicated by the red auxellery jumper lead inside the engine well.
2. Good fuel pressure.
3. Starter checks good.
4. Battery hot and leads are cleaned.
5. Grounds in engine compartment and at fuel tank are cleaned.
6. Vehicle does have gas.
7. Air bag light stays on, even after pulling battery leads, letting set, and reinstalling.
This ABS light would come on and go off independently before the "crank but no start condition". So I'm assuming that the ABS might be its own problem; but not contributing to the crank but no start condition? There were problems leading up to the no start condition. Vehicle began to become hard to start (but would start). After starting (at idle) if the gas pedal was pressed aggressively, the "service engine" light would flash on and off rapidly and the "ABS" light would come on. At this point the vehicle wanted to die. No apparent codes were given.
Now the "crank but no start condition". Before this problem, the vehicle was sending the code for 3 o2 sensors. But a new fuel filter corrected this problem completely with no further apparent problems. Then (about 4 weeks later) the "crank but no start". I do not think the fuel filter and the "crank but no start" problems are related.? No other maintenance has been done to this vehicle that might cause this problem. At this point the manual I am using is useless...
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I have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4, 150,000 mile on it. About 2 weeks ago I blew spark plug out on #2, and a friend who said he has heli-coiled a bunch of these tried to do mine and ruined the head. Anyway, I called a local engine shop and got another PI head, only I used my cam in it. Torqued it as per the book, etc... Mind you that the engine ran perfect before all this.
Got it back together with all new plugs, new exhaust manifold, and 2 new COP's. When I start it-it runs rough for about a min, then straightens back out to run perfect again, and after a few seconds you can hear a solenoid click, then it goes back to missing again. This goes on and on... I went through all the vacuum lines and checked them, checked the egr valve, put on a new IAC, new PVC, cleaned the MAF, and checked everything else with a DVM.
I took it out and drove it.... Runs good for a minute, then it goes back to missing, then back to smooth again. This just keeps going on and on. I noticed when I hear that click, it sounds like a mad rush of air being sucked in, but I cannot locate it. I ordered a new set of COP's to try next. I can understand if it just plain missed all the time, but this it intermittent. Also, the only code I can get is a too lean on bank 1, so I replaced the 90's and the pvc valve. Now no codes but still in and out of missing. It ran perfect before the new head.
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Anyway, I went out to start my truck just now and I'm getting a weird symptom.
The truck gets partial revolution and then to me it seems like the starter bendix pulls back in prematurely and this nasty clank and then a slight "zing". all within a second.
If I try a few more times, it seems to fire. But all the attempts before it fires sound pretty nasty to me.
Does this sound like a symptom of a bad starter/bendix?
A little further history, my excursion was broken into several years ago and they stole my pioneer head unit, in doing so, they forced the shifter down and since then it has been a little "loose". I'm wondering if it could be a neutral safety switch on the transmission?
Anyway, I'm getting ready to order a new neutral safety switch but wondering if I should go ahead a purchase a new starter as well?
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I did a bunch of reading before I bought this truck, and the seller said it really just needed a new battery as far as he could tell... When I bought it, I drove a considerable distance with no problems, other than it seeming to be a little sluggish with acceleration.
I have not seen any leaks anywhere, and all of the visible reservoirs appear to be nominal. No odd exhaust (really clean/invisible, in fact). No weird sounds, and running engine has a pretty even sounding cadence.
I initially changed all of the shocks because the old ones appeared to be original and were severely corroded/rusted. There is some surface rust elsewhere as this truck was apparently used in agricultural setting.
I replaced the battery and it was starting fine for a few weeks, but it would intermittently crank with no start, and would sometimes die within a few minutes after starting. I also charged the a/c with 134a, and it is blowing cold.
So... yesterday, I changed the oil, and installed a Fram Tough-Guard filter and precisely 15 quarts of oil (dipstick shows right level). I also changed the air filters, and disassembled and reassembled the air-cleaner to turbo hoses. While the hoses were disassembled, I took off the relays (AIH/GPR) and reinstalled an aftermarket GPR (crappy foreign-made one). No start. Several times. I reinstalled the original GPR. No start. Several times.
Even tried to jump it from my running Explorer. Still no start. (When I say no start, I mean that it will crank, but not turn over).
I am scheduled to take this truck into the dealership tomorrow for the recall issues (CPS), but I can't drive it there right now. Did I mess something up with the crappy GRP? Why wouldn't it start after reinstalling the original?
Another observation -- I had my batteries tested just now, and they are around 60%. I have ordered a new Alternator because this one looks original and is likely not charging the batteries. Still, I figured if I jumped it, it would start.
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This has happened only 4 times in the last 4 years till about a month ago. (happened twice in 2 days). With key on i get the glow plug light and CEL on but no power to the pump (FASS) and obviously no fuel pressure. it will crank, but nothing on the tach. I've tried plugging in a scanner and it doesn't make a connection with the pcm. all lights work and gauges work (tach and speedo are at zero obviously)...
Before I couldn't pin down when it happened due to being so intermittent. But the last two times it has happened it was when I started it and drove somewhere close before it was at full operating temp. (and in retrospect the previous times was a similar situation). She'll start fine cold, and when at operating temp.
When it happens I pull the battery cables let it set. Reconnect and within a few tries works fine. PCM going bad? Is there a sensor I need to check? New motor has about 25k on it.
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My wife has been telling me our '01 E-350 (Econoline) with 7.3 is taking several attempts to start in the mornings, like it's not even trying to fire. It will crank like wild but no fire and then it will fire usually and sometimes run a little rough but no always.
Tonight she called me from across town and it won't start at all, cranks like wild but won't start, chug or anything.
The WTS light is working fine, the truck runs great and idles smooth all other times, just been giving grief when starting in the mornings (warm outside 70 degree plus ambient temp). I haven't had the truck do it to me but she has explained it well enough.
I do get a SES light for overboost when I run it hard (PHP tuned) but it always goes away and hasn't caused any issues. Could this be the ICP acting like this? If so, is it true that I can just unplug it and the truck will start by using default pressure?
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Where the ICP is located on a 2006 f350? I have a no start condition after the truck warms up, everything else is fine. Started fluid works to crank, I suspect the ICP and /or Orings.
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I've tried everything I can think of to get my cruise control working again to no avail. I have a late 99 with a 6 speed. So far I have checked all the fuses with a multimeter, I've checked continuity from the harness under the dash through the clockspring to the switches, truck does not start without the clutch pushed in so the neutral safety switch works, has the upgraded switch and harness off the master cylinder. the previous owner said the cruise was intermittent about a year after they did the harness and switch recall on it. is there a way to test the harness and switch? I got a 1800 mile round trip coming up in about a week and I am gonna have a sore foot if I cant figure this out.
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I have an 08 Camry that appears to be having the problems associated with the ABS module (intermittent A/C, speedometer not working, etc.).
I've picked up a module/pump from a junkyard. Excuse my ignorance, but the module itself (black portion), does not have any fluid circulating through it? If I'm just swapping that, there is no need to bleed the ABS or perform any programming?
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1999 F150. The truck is a 4X4 supercab, with the 4.6 motor, 141,000 mi. During cold weather it runs great, but as soon as the temp gets into the upper 70's or higher I have a recurring problem. The truck starts right up and runs well, but when it is shut off it will not restart until it has sat for over an hour. It has also stalled at speed on the freeway when the outside temp was in the upper 90's to low 100's.
So far it has always restarted after sitting for awhile. I took it to the dealer and they kept it for 3 days, but could not duplicate the problem and found no codes in the computer. I replaced both coils, but it is still not starting after shut down when hot. My next thought is to change the PCM, but that is a big chunk of change to be guessing about.
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