I have a 1999 F150 2wd. I was changing the oil on the weekend, and noticed a small hole/crack in the front crossmember that the control arms bolt to. This being a integral part of the suspension, I need to fix it. Its just the bottom part of the crossmember, it rusted from the inside out. The rest of the truck and frame is in great shape, so I am not junking it.
View 2 Replies99 F-150 4x4. Any tips to get these rusty things separated from their homes? I've got the torsion keys unloaded and loose and the cross member loose. They will not budge. Aside from getting a bigger hammer and abusing the cross member till something gives. I don't like using the torch on heat treated components....
View 14 Replies1999 FORD f150 4x4 XLT
When i drive the truck straight, turn left, turn right and even backup i get a Squeaking noise coming from the front and it is loud.
When the truck is in park and i turn the wheel back and fourth it still Squeaks even inches at a time turning it i can hear the Squeaking noise.
I can have the truck shut off and i put my weight on the front bumper making it bounce up and down i can still hear the same Squeaking noise
But when i jacked up the front end and turned the wheel back and fourth the nose is gone and seems to be great.
Sounds like the Squeaking noise is coming from the driver side. What this can be?
I need a front axle tube for a 1999 F-150 4x4, I have tried local parts houses and dealership with no luck. Any information where I might locate one.
View 6 RepliesI had both front brakes lock up on me the other day and burnt the shoes out so I replaced the pads and installed new calipers and flex lines. I also went ahead and replaced the rear shoes and both wheel cylinders since this truck had been sitting up for the past few years I figured why not. I flushed the system out but I can not get all the air out of the right rear wheel cylinder. My question is could the new wheel cylinder be bad? The new left cylinder blew out when I first started bleeding the right side. I could not get any pressure at all and I looked over and seen fluid pouring out the left side. I put the old one back on only due to time restraints. Should I replace the right side again as well? I have used up 4 1/2 bottles of 3e2 oz brake fluid and still have air in that side.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 F150 Supercab, 2wd. I just replaced the front rotors, calipers, and pads. Before I did this, the front right caliper was locking up completely. Now, after the new stuff is installed, the truck pulls very hard to the left when braking. The harder you brake, the harder it pulls left. What should I look at next?
View 2 RepliesI just got a 99 Ford f150 with the 4.6. I am having problems getting the four wheel drive to engage. I turn the on the dash and the lights come on for four high and for four low. I have a 00 four by four and it works fine, so I know how to work it. In the 99 I can hear the transfer case engaging and everything clicks just fine just like it's going into fourwheel drive, but the front end is not pulling. The front drive shaft is turning but still the front end is not engaged. What the problem may be?
View 4 RepliesTell me the torque specs for the various attaching nuts of the front hub assembly for the 99 F150 4x4 5.4L (large nut on the spindle, mounting bolts to back of spindle, etc if any) ? I will need them to put everything back together after checking the tone ring for my ABS problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 99 f150 4x4 that has done this twice, once last year and once this year during hot (90+) weather. I'll notice the vehicle seems like it doesn't want to go. Park overnight and it will work ok. Last time it happened the other day I stopped at wally world and both front wheels were real hot and I could smell the brakes. Came out hour later and when I pushed the brake pedal to put it in gear the pedal went to the floor.
Pumped up pedal and drove off but truck would barely move, drove 10 mph to a buddy of mines shop and it sat overnight and worked perfect the next day. He inspected everything and seems to think it might be the abs control unit. He noticed a small amount of fluid had come out of the unit and dripped on the ground. Also no abs light or brake light has ever come on
Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
1999 f150 4x4 reg cab V6 standard, 4x4 shifter on the floor, pull it into high light comes on, front diff actuator goes in, put in 1st only back tires spin, put in reverse front and back spin (I was on a patch of icy road) I can hear a slight clicking noise maybe when in forward gear but its very quiet so could be normal? When I am underneath everything seems to be working and engaged.
View 1 RepliesTen months ago the dealer replaced my front end suspension as the noise was getting worse. Everything but the shocks were replaced. Good news for me and after the replacement the noise was gone.
Six thousand miles later after a trip to south Florida and many bumpy roads the noise is back and with vengeance. It now sounds like a rusty front end noise. I just about given up on this noise issue. The 06 is out of warranty, no recalls, Hyundai knows the problem is on the 2006 cars and now I have the same problem yet it might not be the struts but maybe the shocks. The shocks bad after 35,000 miles. I can't see it but maybe. I need to get them looked at first to see if that is the issue.
Having rust issues? I just bought the car and noticed some was touched up with the rear hatch - under the window, right by the seal. Also, right by where the bottom of the door and front fender meet. Looks like it's inside, on the body/frame, not the fender.
I'll probably take it to dealer and hope to have it taken care of. Carfax came back clear so I'm pretty sure no work has been done on it before that would cause this.
Well after months of no real noise from my suspension the pot hole of the Spring and steal plates in the summer have caused a problem with the suspension on my Hyundai Azera. I was in the car with my lady friend a few weeks back and noticed a rusty noise coming from the right front side of the car. Sound like something not just right. When I got home I walked to the front of the car and pushed down on the hood and I did hear a funny sound like a squeak cracking sound on the left side.
Still under warranty I took the car up to the dealer and explained the problem. The last time I took the car to the dealer they didn't hear anything but this time I made sure to tell them that there is something wrong with the front end and drive it slowly and you will hear a cracking rusty squeaky sound. Sure enough they found something and the links needs to be taken off and new ones put on so they need to order the parts. Thursday I will have them put on and I hope that is problem. Links what in the heck are links? It takes about a hour in a half to put them on. Just by going over a little bump I can hear noise, or even backing out of the drive.
I got a 97 f150 single cab short bed. My 4x4 shifter is on the floor and moves. I put in 4x4 and the relay clicks and the light comes on. Same as 4low. Front driveshaft spins but front wheels don't. Could there be a leak in the auto locking hubs? Also I want to manual convert the auto hubs. It can be done but how?
View 1 Repliesmy rear bumper is pretty much eaten up, too.
How difficult is this to replace?
Good source for rear bumpers? Just something stock; don't need anything wild, crazy, lighted, etc.
It's a work/hunting/fishing/hauling truck. That's all.
My rear fenders are pitting and bubbling with rust on both sides. I had my local body shop have at it and it looked good for about 6 months. Now bubbling up again. I see in older trucks like mine that this is a common problem. I'll probably have to replace rhr box if I really want to fix it? Or just learn to live with it.
View 14 RepliesAll right, I went ahead and rebuilt my suspension considering everything was worn out. I used upper and lower control arms and all the tie rod ends from O'Reilly's (MasterPro). While I was under there I noticed that the sway bar end links and bushings were deformed and worn, so I changed those out.
The clunky front end is confusing as hell to me. All of the front end bushings and ball joints are new, and if I hit bumps with a little vigor it rattles. Under hard braking to a stop there is a loud clunk from the front left. I have shocks on the way (Monroe Reflexes for the front, Sensatrac load adjusters for the rear), which are the only things left that have been removed and not replaced with new ones.
The truck was perfectly clunk and rattle free with the old worn out bushings and ball joints. I can't imagine why it would start clunking now with a new front end. I felt the new ball joints and they were tight and didn't have any play. The bushings were tight. I'm at the end of my rope with this crap. I've double checked that the ball joint and chassis nuts and bolts are all very tight.
On my 1997 F150 4x4, at 15 or so MPH up front it starts to hum & vibrate (not shaking type vibration but tight vibration) and hum gets louder and vibe becomes more predominant as speed increases. 1 person who is pretty credible (but nobody is perfect especially me) told me its not uncommon for bearings in front diff to go bad. He also mentioned to me they can be a pain to change and may be much simpler to get a replacement gear set from a yard. I will be changing brake pads, rotors, calipers and hubs this week.
I didnt feel any overwhelming heat coming from that may occur from bad hub bearings, when I spin wheels do not hear any unhealthy sounds nor is there any play on hubs but I am replacing them also anyway. Is he correct about the possibility of bad bearings in front diff and not uncommon for them to fail? Also, Side note I am also installing torsion bar keys to lift front about 2.5". Should I get extended sway bar links to replace originals or would stock be fine?
Its only on the right side. When i push down on the right side, its really loud but when i push on the left side it doesn't squeak. It sounds its really loud. When i turn the wheel it sounds like an old door in a scary movie being closed. Is it my ball joints?
View 3 Replies2002 F150 4X4 7700
I'm trying to install front brake rotors and pads. I got the caliper off and the rotor bracket off. But i can't get the rotor off. The rotor is rusted in place.
I have sprayed liquid wrench and hammered the life out of the rotor from the front the back and in between. It will not budge. How the am i supposed to get this thing off???
I'm about to break out the torch but i don't want to fry the wheel bearings.