Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Front Brakes Lock Up
Jun 24, 2013
I had both front brakes lock up on me the other day and burnt the shoes out so I replaced the pads and installed new calipers and flex lines. I also went ahead and replaced the rear shoes and both wheel cylinders since this truck had been sitting up for the past few years I figured why not. I flushed the system out but I can not get all the air out of the right rear wheel cylinder. My question is could the new wheel cylinder be bad? The new left cylinder blew out when I first started bleeding the right side. I could not get any pressure at all and I looked over and seen fluid pouring out the left side. I put the old one back on only due to time restraints. Should I replace the right side again as well? I have used up 4 1/2 bottles of 3e2 oz brake fluid and still have air in that side.
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I have a 99 f150 4x4 that has done this twice, once last year and once this year during hot (90+) weather. I'll notice the vehicle seems like it doesn't want to go. Park overnight and it will work ok. Last time it happened the other day I stopped at wally world and both front wheels were real hot and I could smell the brakes. Came out hour later and when I pushed the brake pedal to put it in gear the pedal went to the floor.
Pumped up pedal and drove off but truck would barely move, drove 10 mph to a buddy of mines shop and it sat overnight and worked perfect the next day. He inspected everything and seems to think it might be the abs control unit. He noticed a small amount of fluid had come out of the unit and dripped on the ground. Also no abs light or brake light has ever come on
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Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
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Quick 4x4 always on... Is there a way to permanently lock the front wheels? My than ferry case works to engage the front axle. But the wheels are not engaging. I have put enough money in to it and would like to permanently lock the front wheels.
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Initially when I start driving, the brakes work just find. But it seems as I use the brakes, the front brakes build up pressure and slowly start to lock up. They don't lock up completely, but they do cause a significant amount of drag. The rotor, calipers, rubber hoses and master cylinder are all very new. I'm thinking maybe the issue is with the master cylinder and am considering going to get one along with a brake booster(since it doesn't have one currently).
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What would cause my front disc brakes not to work. I have replaced the master cylinder, calipers, hoses and pads. Backs work fine but I can not get good pressure to the front. 1993 f150 5.0 ..
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So when I got this truck everything on the brakes were messed up. So long story short I got a new master cylinder new pads and all lines are bled. Now this hole time my ABS light has been on so I looked at all the sensors and i found one connector that goes to the rear axle but it has no where to plug into. But I also found some writing on the axle which tells me that is a different axle and may not have had ABS set up. But I am not sure. Now the problem I am having is when I hit the breaks i don't have much bite but if i push on them harder the rear will lock up and the front brakes are biting just a little like 50% power. So how can I get more stopping power to the front pads ? And if its that unconnected sensor is there anyway i can loop in out of the system ?.
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1999 F-150 Sport 4x4
So the deal is I had to use a slim jim to open up my truck door the other day. Door still locks/unlocks fine, only not with the key. Key will still fit & turn the barrel without any prob. just doesn't engage the lock. Took the door panel off and it looks as if the Rod that connects the inside of the key barrel to the lower (part)? not familiar w/name. has come loose.
Looking for a diagram/picture of how it should look to get everything put back together so the key'll work again. Sucks unlocking passenger side and climbing over to open driver door.
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Going down a steep loose gravel drive way, going maybe 5 miles per hour. About 50 feet before the stop sign we lightly applied the brakes and the front right wheel completely locked up. If we didn't turn into the grass we would of stopped in the middle of the busy street. We picked up speed when we applied the brakes, like we were on ice. When I got out, I could see the one long brake mark in the driveway. This happened on a paved road about 6 months ago, it had some loose gravel at the stop sign. I couldn't tell which wheel locked up at the time. This happened on snow in December to, twice. Since the ABS light never came on. Brake pads and rotors needed replacing about 9 months ago. Tires have been rotated, no change. Not sure what it could be. I disconnected the Abs fuse for now.
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I just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 5.4 Liter 72000 miles. There is a rubbing sound that is only audible when the brakes are applied. And only when applied with light pressure. The noise will continue intermittently until you come to a complete stop. If the brake is applied aggressively there is no sound at all. I am not sure if it is a brake issue or some thing in the front end that is flexing when slowing down.
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It's a farm truck, lumber getter trailer puller. Not driven often, after sitting for awhile the brakes seem to be pulsing in front like antilock, as if braking on ice. I checked both front caliper springs or plunger slides and they are free not froze up.
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The power door lock switches, on both driver and passenger doors, only functions to lock the door but will not unlock. When either switch is depressed to lock, both function with no problem. But when depressing either side button to unlock, there is absolutely no activity at all. Like there is no current reaching either one. This happened once about a week ago, but my son came along and just kept pressing the passenger side button and it came back to life after 5 or 6 tries. But now the same problem has recurred and it will not resolve.
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On a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
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Drove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
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On said truck, when you go to stop, the brakes grab a bit, then release , then the pedal goes to about 2 inches off the floor, then they grab and hold. Pumping does nothing. No abs light on the dash. Today we put the truck in 4high and while back up I had full brake pressure from the top. Also when you take off, either in the mornings or during the day, it has a slight vibration, kinda like a brake grabbing, then all is fine. The brake grabbing isn't there 100% of the time, I would say 95%. I haven't changed the brake pads, rotors, or anything yet. Just didn't want to throw money at it and still not fix the problem.
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My son has a 2003 Super Duty with auto locks, but the front wheels won't lock even when turn to locked position. Also when it's in two wheel drive the front drive shaft and axles still spin, are the hubs locked up or is it in the transfer case?
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I was driving on a short business trip and I noticed what I thought at first was clutch smell, and then I realized I had a brake overheating. I pulled over and the front right rotor and hub were very hot. The caliber not so much. I let it cool while I was at the meeting. About 1 1/2 hours later I jacked the truck up to see if the bearings felt bad. Seemed fine so I drove home trying not to use the brakes and the heat did not return. I replace the caliber with one from Ford, but the only lines I could find were from CARQUEST and they are made by Raybestos. I am assuming that these lines are made in China.
I have been looking for some braided SS lines, but can't find any for a 2 wheel drive dually with 4 wheel ABS. Where I can order some better lines???
I hated my old 1994 F-350 that had those Metal/rubber pins, they would mess up and overheat also, I thought that my 2000 would not have this problem, I was wrong.
FYI, about a month ago I replaced the rear pads, and changed all the brake fluid with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3. I installed Akebono pads on the rear and just today Akebono on the problem front side. Will change out line and pads on driver side later this week. I hope I got if fixed.
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Picked up my 5th wheel this afternoon from being raised 3". Dropped over the 10 percent grade down the hill to normal driving. Had the trailer brake controller to boost #2 (Prodigy controller). Had to brake pretty continuously, (tried to stay off it a bit, but is is about 10 grade for about 3/4 mile. Put the auto trans in D2 to get brakes come to the red light at the bottom. Noticed a puff of smoke at the front. Driver side, didn't notice passenger side.
New pads and new slotted rotors new maybe 1,500 miles ago. Not liking that action, but need thoughts. Want to put a thousand or 2 miles towing this summer and accompanying mountainous terrain and back.
2000 F350 Lariat Super Duty 7.3 4x4 NOT a dually.
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I've changed brakes on tons of front wheel drive cars, and two wheel drive trucks. But NEVER on a 4wheel drive Super Duty. My truck needs new front brakes now!!!! its a 2003 F350 4X4 -58,000 miles. I was just wondering from you all, how hard is it to change brakes on a 4x4 truck? Do I have to remove the Hub or lockouts?
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1999 FORD f150 4x4 XLT
When i drive the truck straight, turn left, turn right and even backup i get a Squeaking noise coming from the front and it is loud.
When the truck is in park and i turn the wheel back and fourth it still Squeaks even inches at a time turning it i can hear the Squeaking noise.
I can have the truck shut off and i put my weight on the front bumper making it bounce up and down i can still hear the same Squeaking noise
But when i jacked up the front end and turned the wheel back and fourth the nose is gone and seems to be great.
Sounds like the Squeaking noise is coming from the driver side. What this can be?
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