Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 F250 Skipping After Rain - Code P0307 / Cylinder 7 Not Fire Correctly
Jan 20, 2013
99 F250LD 4x4 w/5.4 and 215k . I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. Just had quite a bit of rain in my area. I didn't drive the truck in it but 3 days after the rain stopped I did. Skipping badly ! It has done it before and will clear itself up after a heat cycle or two. This time it kicked a p0307 code. # 7 cylinder not fire correctly I believe. I got ready to replace the cop but decided to wait a day. In the mean time I pulled the connector and blue compressed air through it and the male connector.
The next morning I decided to drive it before replacing the coil. Absolutely no skipping at all. Drove at different speeds , up heels slow , high speeds, no skipping. Ran the truck for about 20 minutes or so. Is the connector getting moisture in it ? Can I fill the connector with dielectric grease? Is there another problem. I cleared the codes and am going to drive a couple of cycles to see if any come back. Like I said it has done this before but not bad enough to throw a code so I'm not sure if it's always number 7.
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I have a 2001 King Ranch F150, which has a 2004 Lincoln Navigator 5.4 DOHC Intech engine installed. The engine was installed in 2005 and had less that 100 miles on it. The engine now has approximately 95000 miles and I have recently gotten a P0307 fault-miss fire on # 7 cylinder. I have installed a new spark plug, COP, and fuel injector. The fault has returned. What is the cause of my problem?
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I have a 2001 King Ranch F150, which has a 2004 Lincoln Navigator 5.4 DOHC Intech engine installed. The engine was installed in 2005 and had less that 100 miles on it. The engine now has approximately 95000 miles and I have recently got the P0307 fault-miss fire on # 7 cylinder. I have installed a new spark plug, COP, and fuel injector. The fault has returned. Any clues to the cause of my problem?
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Replaced the spark plugs and wires a couple months ago. Started skipping yesterday throwing the #4 misfire code so I replaced the coil pack, reset the check engine light but it's since came back on and has a rough idle and loss of power. By the way, it's a 97 F150 4.6L 4x4 with 200,000 miles.
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After replacing most of the underside of my Super Duty, Complete front end, backing plates, brakes, rotors and shocks, I have a misfire code on cylinder #4. I replaced the plugs, cleaned the MAS and filter and rotated the coil to cylinder #1. Still have a misfire on #4 and noticed the coolant slightly low and some condensation on the oil cap. Could this be the intake gasket? My mechanic is away for 2 weeks and I think the price at the dealer will kill me. I have 63K on the truck, don't tow and plow mostly family members. It's getting a little rusty but is still in good shape.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil. I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. If you need any info off the scangauge let me know and I will post the exact readings. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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Have starting problems some times, cranks over real good but will not fire . When this happens i have no fuel pres. But after it starts then it will run good This problem usually happens first thing in the morning. Is there a fuel pump relay in this system or do i have a bad pump . I only have 85,000 miles on this truck.
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I had a 05 f350 5.4 3v come into my shop with a CEL. Did the usual it had a p0307. So I did the usual again changed plug and coil plug cam out no prob they were done 15k ago. Test drove a few times and it was fine. Few days later customer brought back with same code p0307. thought maybe I got a bad plug or coil so I moved them to #6, misfire stays on #7. When I drive it local its fine when I go to pull on to highway and really put my foot in it CEL flashes (misfire) and it pings like crazy and loses all power. Scan it back at shop and still only p0307!!
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I'm having an issue with my 2003 Silverado, current engine is LS1 from a WS6 Trans Am, mostly stock, stainless headers, no cats, stall converter. I replaced fuel pump a few weeks ago and last week i took a road trip and when I hit the interstate the CEL started flashing. I pulled over and used my scanner and saw that it was P0307. I cleared code and continued on. The only noticeable problem was that it was not shifting into overdrive. After a while the light quit flashing and eventually it shifted into OD.
This happened several more times on a 750 mile trip. I had a mechanic friend check it over and he couldn't find anything, wasn't throwing codes at that time. He check sparked plug, swapped the coil to #5 and still had the issue. Didn't get a chance to check the fuel injector. The trip home it did the same thing. IF it were indeed a bad injector, wouldn't the problem be ongoing instead of coming and going? Took to local chevy dealer thinking they could diagnose it but since it didn't throw a code they couldn't find anything.
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Owning a 2001 F250 Extended cab with a 7.3 I have not had a lot of questions to ask fortunately.
My truck has spent a lot more time sitting than running lately and when I went to start it the other day it cranked fine but would not fire. Quick read on this forum and the first thing I found was how if the fuel solenoid had less than 10.8 volts when cranking it would not start.
I went down and checked the battery voltage and it was at 12.1 volts no load. I put the battery charger on for about 10 hours (time to kill) and when I pulled the charger and cranked it over, started with no problem.
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So my 99 F-150, 4.2L started throwing a code a few weeks ago, P0306 #6 Cyl Misfire. This thing has got 238,000 and has been the most reliable commute vehicle I've owned.
Today I changed all the plugs and wires (they were due anyways) which didn't resolve the issue. After clearing the code, got about 3 miles out and it came back. Running SeaFoam through the system on this tank as well, but I'm leaning towards an EGR blockage like what is described here:
Sparky's Answers: 1999 Ford F150, P0306 Misfire Cylinder #6
I was about to buy a new coil pack but I'd rather not continue to throw parts at this, as I've read many others do with this same exact situation, only to end up with the same code. I've replaced the coil pack once already a few years ago when I lost a cylinder on the way to work.
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My 97 F150 through a CEL Tuesday night P0301 so I picked up a new plug because it's cheap and simple, but that didn't do anything. Spark plug wires are about 3 months old, I also swapped injectors between 1 and 2, and misfire stayed with cylinder 1. It also gained a tap when the misfire started but only above idle, but it doesn't sound like a rod knock.
I also noticed if you unplug injector 1at idle it taps/knocks 3 or 4 times, however if you unplug any of the others it doesn't do that. I checked and I definitely have good spark from the plug. I plan on picking up a new compression tester tomorrow since mine never was returned. If you take the oil fill cap off it doesn't have any blow by at idle, however if you rev it you get a quick cloud out of it.
I thought about picking up a kit to check the injector pulse.
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I have a '98 F150 4X2 extended cab with a 4.2l with 233K on it. I have no problem with drivability when I drive 5 miles to work. However, a couple of weeks ago when I had to drive 15 miles to the liquor store to get what I needed (I live in a dry county) I got back into my truck, started it and drove of. It drove like crap like I lost a cylinder. Drove it back home those 15 miles, let it cool off, put my scanner on it and got a PO304 code and I think a PO174 (bank 2 lean) code. Went to the #4 cylinder and found the plug had loosened up.
Tightened it back up, cleared the codes, and went through my normal weekly routine of driving to work with no problem. Made a booze run the next weekend and the same thing happened. Limped back home and found another PO304 code. Found the plug to be tight and in good condition but changed all the plugs since they were cheap copper core and had 20K on them. The wires only have 20K on them, too. Installed platinum plugs, drove all week 5 miles to work and back just fine. Made another 15 mile run yesterday and the same crap happened all over again after I got out of the store and drove home.
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My dad has a 99 F250 with a no start issue. Everything was starting and running fine one day. The next he gets a no start. Cranks fast and fine but wont fire up and start. He has a scangaugeII hooked up to it and his oil pressures and volts look fine. His tach moves when he is trying to start it. He checked the icp sensor and it had oil through it so he replaced it with a Ford part. Unplugged it and the scangauge pressure goes up but no start. He also replaced the ipr with a new Ford one just in case. He checked and is getting low pressure and high pressure oil.
I am having him check the fuel heater fuse #22 to make sure it is not blown. He had the block heater plugged in all night along with a battery charger to make sure they are topped off as well. We have gone through a couple of the checklists on this site for a no start condition but nothing has solved it yet. I think he is sitting at about 200k on the motor. No major issues or problems until now. He is currently also pulling the ICM to check it out as well. No codes are being thrown.
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I have a 98 F150 4.2L with code P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire.
This is what I have done so far. New plugs, coil pack, plug wires, TPS, EGR, EGR Vacuum control regualier, DMCP, canister, all of these parts are new and was bought from the ford place. Have taken the egr value, and egr value bracket off to see if carbon blockage was present, but it was clean. It was clean in the motor also. Have blown air through the metal tube that connects to the egr value and it come out the tail pipe very good, so no blockage their. Have cleaned throtle body and injectors. Have tested fuel injector with tester and it works correctly. Motor holder pressure. Have correct fuel pressure.
Do not have any vacuum leaks, it holds vacuum correctly. Crankshaft sensor is fine. Went throw 4 cans of break parts cleaner, spraying on intake while motor was running, motor did not idle up or change. I have done all this and it still shows code P0301, and it still skips. Here's the catch, if you unplug the vaccum off the egr the misfire goes away, or unplug the EGR vacuum control regulator it goes away, or if you unplug the DMCP sensor it goes away, it does not matter witch one you unplug, the misfire goes away.
I have had several different test done the the truck, but all the test only show that one code P0301, they do not show any other codes, or problem's with my truck.
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My truck was running fine the past few days minus a cylinder misfire and a lean code the misfire was due to a coil pack being out no big deal on that part but yesterday on 7/30/13 my temp gauge turned off my truck wouldn't go below 1k rpms and then the over heating light came on. i drove the one mile home and turned it off an hour later i went back out to my truck to get to work and it refused to start.
I decided to just hold my foot down on the gas and crank it and it eventually started drove it to work with the same symptoms. now today its doing the same thing except now the truck is broke down in the parking lot at my job the engine is flooding cause i can smell it last night i changed the thermostat. I can get so that i can get my truck up in running its a 2002 f150 5.4L 4x4....
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So on Christmas day I turned on my truck and all was well. I had family over and we were going up to my range to do some Christmas day target shooting. I let it warm up for about 20 minutes we then loaded up and headed out.
When I locked the hubs I soon found out my 4WD was not working? Due to the cold? It worked fine last time out and now not at all. I decided to forge ahead in 2WD, Sure enough we got stuck in deep snow. I had to gun the engine off and on to get out and as soon as I broke free (CHECK ENGINE) appeared for the first time ever. Worst Christmas ever!
The truck is running fine, full power and no irregular noise from the engine. So I ran the test and P0303, P0307 misfires on cylinder 3 and 7 appeared. This whole post is about me doing a full tune up this spring the truck is parked since Christmas and will stay parked until I do a full tune up.
New Plugs.
New Wires.
New Coils.
New oil filter and oil. Changed last year with less than 2000 miles but changing anyways.
Flush radiator and add new radiator fluid.
Clean air filter (Aftermarket, It is washable).
Is there anything I'm missing? Also, any tips on figuring out the 4WD issue?
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I will add as many details as possible :
2000 f150 4x4 offroad package
5.4L with 131k on it
new Dorman intake manifold
new Global Automotive (Ebay) COPs
New Motorcraft spark plugs
About 1500 miles ago I started throwing a code signifying a cylinder 3 misfire. The truck would bog down real bad and then after 5-6 seconds of no power it would return to normal. I tried replacing the COP (both with new and then with one from another cylinder) and plugs but no resolution. So I talked to the local ford service manager and he said it sounded like intake manifold problems.
Replaced the intake manifold and no more codes were being thrown.
1500 miles later and today the truck started having a hesitation/shudder when I was sitting in a drive-thru. I put the truck in neutral and park and neither solved the issue. With the earlier issue, when I would put in neutral and increased rpm, the issue would resolve.
I pulled out of the drive-thru and the hesitation was consistent no matter what the rpm or speed. The truck feels almost sluggish and lacks power. The hesitation is like 2x/second. When accelerating its almost like the rpms and speed hesitate, jump, hesitate, jump.
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P0306 (ok #6 missfire) with P0171 & P0174 --- Do I chase electrical or fuel or both. Afraid to assume anything but probably would normally address the misfire electrical first.... Don't want to go down that 'primrose path' if others have been there first!
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My 5.4 F250 with 200,000 miles having many problems... It all started a few months ago, when the cam needed to be replaced, and a cam phaser was also replaced at the same time. It ran fine after, then threw a code for cylinder 3 misfire. The guy I took it to said it was due to the huge crack in the exhaust manifold and that was messing with the o2 sensor coming up as a cylinder 3 misfire. So, got the new manifold and it was good for a few weeks.
Now, starting the other night, Friday the 13th, it threw a CEL when I was coming into the driveway. It had been throwing a code every once in a while, and I brought it to school to scan it Friday the 13th but there was no code. So, I assume that it is an intermittent problem, no big deal. When I go to get in my truck to go to work a few hours later, the 5.4 cranks... and cranks... and cranks.
I get it to fire up, and it dies again. Run codes, and it says that the cam positioning sensor is broken. Replace both of them, still acts up ie. doesn't start when it does start it runs very rough and stalls. Get it up to my uncles shop, and replace fuel filter.. Still runs like trash. Run codes now, and it says rich/lean in bank 1.. My uncle tells me to move my truck out of the shop, so I start it up, and it runs great. No hiccups, it idles perfect as I move his truck out of the shop first.
I park my truck outside and let it idle for about 10 mins, and when I come back out it is still idling, perfectly fine. I get in, put it in reverse, and get about 20 feet when it dies and will no longer start back up. What could be going wrong?! Sick of throwing money into this thing! At one time while started up in my uncles shop, it was blowing black smoke, as if it was a diesel!
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'99 K1500, 5.7L, 130K miles, regularly serviced and well maintained, no garage so sits out in weather. About 8 months ago we started to experience no starts after rains, engine would fire off, but not stay running, security light NEVER came on. Took to regular mechanic and had fuel pump replaced (needed it anyway), wiring "repaired" behind dash. No problems till last month, then same started again. Sometimes will start after 5-6 tries, other times will not start till 10-12 hours AFTER rain stops.
Security light came on ONCE while driving for 5 minutes, then went out. TSB's indicate possible corrosion in the Passlock sensor voltage, underhood or under body connections, may be reason. Where these are as I would prefer to check them myself to see if simple solution before pay mechanic to find the same. Since did not reoccur for a while after fuel pump replaced, are there connections that would have to be pulled to replace tank that may now be not sealing again with time? Any resource for wiring diagrams for Passlock path?
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