Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Engine Shutter / Not Firing On All Cylinders?
Jun 25, 2012
i have a 1999 F-150 2x4 witha 5.4 liter v-8 with 151,000 miles. Last week the truck began to run rough when i accelerated (ideled fine)and felt like it wasn't fireing on all cylinders and was puffing white smoke. A few minutes later the battery light came on and the truck lost all power and shut off. I replaced the battery and alternator and everything ran fine for a week. Now the issues have come back but i'm not sure the alternator and batter have gone bad again. What could be going on? Have the coils gone bad?
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Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
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Al right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
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My neighbor has a 2000 f150, 5.4 liter gasoline v8. The number 4 cylinder is not firing, additionally the injector is not putting any fuel in the cylinder either. We swapped coils, and plugs, problem stays in number 4 cylinder. He had a new computer installed but problem persists. I am trying to get a chiltons on order so I can see a wiring diagram, I'm wondering if the injector has any bearing on the coil, with respect to getting a fire/no fire order? What is upstream from these components?
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I've got a 2003 F150 4x4 supercrew that's got a 9.75" rear end with 3.73 gears. I just replaced clutch packs and spider gear set 2 weeks ago. The last day or two I have noticed that when I make sharp turns that it get a whining like spinning noise. It sounds to me like the spider gears are spinning. It only does it when making sharp turns. There is no noise going down the highway or normal driver. I have noticed at times I get a little shutter when I go to take off or back up. Kinda feels like a brake is hanging. I put friction modifier in when I did the clutch packs and everything. Maybe not enough?
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I bought a 01 passat with a bad turbo I drove it home as I was getting home the STOP low oil pressure light came on and I parked it the engine had a lifter rattle but not knocking I went to start next day and Have no fire on first two cylinders (only two I checked), where to start? I pulled coil pack/plug tube out and hooked a plug in to check fire on first 2 cylinders got no spark....
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97 SL ATX - Not firing on cylinders 3 and 6; no voltage to that coil.
I've checked:
Plugs
Wires
Coils
PTU
ECU
Timing
So I guess the CAS is the next best guess. So where exactly IS the CAS...and how do i test it? Also, where is the timing mark on the crank pulley? Cams are all aligned but I didn't see a mark for the crank and don't know where I should be looking.
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Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
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150K 2003 durango 4.7, ran like a top, backed in my driveway to eat lunch. Went to start and it sounded like it was firing on 1 or 2 cylinders give it a little gas and it died. Repeated 3 or 4 times now no fire at all. No check engine light at first now it flashes. About 30 miles with new fuel from a reputable local station tank was on reserve ( 0 miles on the overhead indicator ). All fuses are good . could it be a relay.....
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My 97 F-150 has 208,000 miles on the original engine. It started misfiring originally on just 2 cylinders, 1 and 8, after pulling the codes. I also get a P0420, catalyst system below threshhold bank code being thrown, but I think it is because of the misfires.
To remedy this I've done the following:
1. Spark plugs are relatively new and were changed completely a few months prior to issues.
2. Coil Packs were changed on both sides. Additionally, Cylinders 1 and 8 are on separate coil packs.
3. Spark Plug wires were changed
4. Did a resistance test on each fuel injector and they all passed.
None of this has worked. Am I missing something obvious? From my friends I've heard everything from my exhaust is plugged to I need to change all my injectors. Injectors are costly and I'm not even sure how to check if my exhaust is partially plugged, but it seemed to be flowing fine. Also, I pulled plug one since it was simple to get to and noticed it was slightly brown, like it had oil on it.
I got frustrated and continued driving my truck until the problem degenerated into severe misfiring and now I cannot get it started at all (Wrong move). I bought a car and haven't drove it since, and have it sitting behind my house. Now the cops want to tow it because the registration is has expired so I've decided to move it into my garage so I can work on it. Part of me wants to junk it, but I've put a lot of time, money, blood, sweat, tears, and curse words into this truck and am motivated to get it back up and running since the transmission and front suspension had been replaced recently.
What to do!?!?
1. Go to the Ford dealership and have them diagnose the issue and then try to fix it? (I have little confidence in them from the stories I've heard)
2. Pull the engine, tear it apart, and rebuild it?
3. Drop a used/rebuilt engine in?
4. Call me crazy and say junk the truck and buy a different one?
Currently leaning towards option 3...
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Last night when I started my car before heading home from work I noticed that the engine clunked a couple of times, as if it were slowly combustion or back firing in two cylinders. The car started up fine; however, I've never heard the engine do that before. I don't know if it is because it has been cold up here the last few days (-12C (10F) day time highs) or if there's something else wrong. My EGT has just under 60,000km (37,200mi).
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I started out with misfires in cylinders 1 and 7. Replaced all spark plugs (used autolites, i know i know). While replacing them I found that the boot on coil 8 was beat up with a chunk missing. It was working before I replaced plugs. After I changed everything out the 8th quit working completely and I still had a miss in cylinder 1.
Replaced coils on both of those and put a new wire connector on for 8th cylinder because it no longer clicked in correctly anymore. Truck runs infinitely better than it did prior to this, but according to OBD2 I still have misfires in 1 and 8.
Mostly in the 50-60mph range. What else could be causing this??? Injector maybe or is there some other sensor or timing problem? My dad has a compression test kit, but he lives several hours away so I can't just get to that right away.
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My aunt recently gave me her 02 f150 for free because it got flooded and she didnt want to fool with it. she said it ran great before it got flooded. I flushed everything. oil, gas, and tranny. I blew water out the cylinders and replaced the spark plugs. I took the fuel injectors out and cleaned and cycled some b12 threw them. The truck starts and gets spark to every cylinder and is only running on 3. I can pull 3 plug wires off and the idle does not change. Idk what it could be but dead cylinders. I am afraid I am going to have to find a new engine. I am going to do a compression check later this week when I have time. I am new to fords so if there is anything I should check...
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97 F150 4x4 XLT 5.4L... I had two cylinders misfiring, removed COP, injectors and plugs. Reinstalled all parts and reconnected all sensors. Now I am not getting fuel to the injectors. Double checked for disconnected wires and hoses, checked all fuses and relays, also the inertia switch. Fuel pump does not hum when key turned on. Tried hitting bottom of gas tank. My question is, before I pull the tank again, is there something under the hood I may be missing. It does get quite crowded at the rear of the motor.
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My wife and I received her father's 2002 F150 4.2 5 speed 2 wheel drive truck after his passing. He purchased new plug wires and wanted to replace them. So, this weekend I put in new plugs, plug wires, changed the air filter, and changed the oil and filter. Started up and ran really rough. Threw my code reader on after taking it around the block and found the following codes...
P0316 Misfire detected in first 1000 revs,
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire,
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire,
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire.
New plugs were Motorcraft plugs, but had skinnier center compared to the ones that came out of truck.
Where do I start? What do I do? I am really confused as I have changed plugs and wires before and always had vehicle run better or same as before change.
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Recently bought 98 f150 xlt 3 door 5speed 4x4 4.6l 230k miles for $1k was throwing misfire codes on 1,8,4,3 cylinders. Usually throws two cylinders at a time and never the same cylinders consecutively
Parts replaced:
coils...msd blaster
belden wire
motorcraft plugs...when i did these it ran perfect for a tank of fuel...18mpg no stumble
two cans seafoam through the tank
tank was dropped and drained
fuel filter
one can seafoam intake cleaner
3" exhaust from the Y pipe back
MAF cleaned
Previous owner said to have tested and cleaned injectors but I am not positive it was done... I don't think its mechanical because it wanders through the cylinders and when i changed the plugs it ran spot on. it gets worse the warmer the truck gets also.
injectors?
clogged small cats?
sensor?
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So the past few weeks my truck has been sputtering a lot. It seems to do it more so in low RPMS but when I lay on the throttle I didn't really notice it. I haven't had time to look into the issue but yesterday the issue got drastically worse and the CEL finally came on. Registered P0174 as well as a number of other codes including misfires on 7 of the 8 cylinders.
So far I have replaced the fuel filter. Spark plugs are only a few months old. I didnt think it would make sense for all of the coil packs to go out at once so I was thinking either a fuel issue or vacuum leak. Why would it only spit out P0174 (Banks 2) and not show P0171 (Banks 1) along with it? Fuel pump? Vacuum leak? Where should I start? 2002 F150 5.4L...
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Put in my new S&B intake today and when I stomp on the gas I am getting a loud shuddering noise from the intake when I change gears. Also sounds like a squealing sound sometimes. Doesn't sound like other trucks that I have heard. What that could be?
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2002 F350 single wheel 4x4, 280k miles chipped with a 6
My problem first started when the bottom of my sending unit broke off in tank causing me to run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. I dropped tank and repaired. A week later I noticed fuel dampness on my tank and discovered I crossthreaded cap on sending unit. About this time I started getting a shutter at slight acceleration only and a harder hit at idle. I thought air in lines so I dropped tank and reassembled. No air in line at all now but I still have a shutter so I replaced fuel filter in case of obstruction. No luck. Now since I have owned truck it has been a pain to crank in cold weather if it wasn't plugged in over night. It has been hard lately even in moderate weather since shutter started so I replaced both batteries today.
I replaced the ICP today also because I noticed the other day when there was oil on and around harness to it and when I unplugged it today the truck changed idle and there was oil inside. After I changed it I took it out and it still had the shutter and sound of a miss. At about 8 miles in it just died going down the road. I coasted to the side and it cranked right back up and drove home. The shutter doesn't fill as bad but there. Also I live in the mountains and on my way home after cutoff I had chip in Stock position and had to put peddle to the floor to climb hill. I've never had to do that. I'm getting worried I work for a living and caint keep throwing money at it aimlessly. I'm thinking at this point IPR or CPS. But I'm no mechanic so I could be completely wrong.
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My wife has been telling me our '01 E-350 (Econoline) with 7.3 is taking several attempts to start in the mornings, like it's not even trying to fire. It will crank like wild but no fire and then it will fire usually and sometimes run a little rough but no always.
Tonight she called me from across town and it won't start at all, cranks like wild but won't start, chug or anything.
The WTS light is working fine, the truck runs great and idles smooth all other times, just been giving grief when starting in the mornings (warm outside 70 degree plus ambient temp). I haven't had the truck do it to me but she has explained it well enough.
I do get a SES light for overboost when I run it hard (PHP tuned) but it always goes away and hasn't caused any issues. Could this be the ICP acting like this? If so, is it true that I can just unplug it and the truck will start by using default pressure?
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Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
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