Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Chattering When Shift Down Or Just Sitting In Neutral
May 17, 2017
My truck is making this chattering when I shift down or just sitting there in neutral it goes away when I press the clutch or if I push the shifter in the spot before the gear I was told it was a throw out baring but I'm not sure I herd this transmission will start to chatter before it goes out so what to do?
1999 f150 4.6 4x4 Romeo 5speed single cab...
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4R70W. This one is in my 99 F-150 with the 4.6. From what the previous owner told me this trans only has 13k miles on the rebuild and I believe him because the converter is bright blue and when it does shift right, the shifts are solid and fluid is very clean. Truck only has 98k miles on the body as well, so it's possible the truck did sit a while because my tires have a ton of tread on them, but they are dry rotted a bit (dated 2006 IIRC).
Issue: When the trans is cold (sat overnight) it will shift to neutral between the 2-3 shift for 1-3 seconds depending on outside temperature and then drop into gear. But it only does this for the first 30 seconds or so of driving, after that it shifts normal (although it does seem to hold gears a little longer than I would think it should on occasion and not upshift). I have only gotten it to do it once per cold start so it seems like once the trans gets any heat it's fine.
I was also thinking I was getting drain back and maybe it wasn't heat related so I dropped the pan, replaced the filter, fluid and pan seal (it had a small leak) and torqued the valve body. Two of the bolts were a little loose, but the rest were fine. Tightened them to spec and put it back together with no dice. Truck also gets pretty bad fuel mileage so I'm starting to think maybe there is some temp sensor screwing everything up?
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I bought this truck for work and all of a sudden it will rev real high when I press the clutch in to switch gears or when sitting at a light. I stopped at a parking lot and popped the hood and tried to pull the throttle back by hand but it will not go. There is a lil slack in the throttle cable but when the truck is off and I manually pull the throttle back it returns normally.
I was wondering if the little black electronic box opposite where the throttle hooks to the throttle body is making it rev so high? I really don't know a lot about these newer trucks as I have driving older trucks my whole life so probably using wrong terms...
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1999 4.6L won't start after sitting a month. Ran fine before, now won't start. Cranks fine. Cannot hear fuel pump turn on when key is turned. Fuel pump fuse is good.
Fuel pump relay clicks a few times when key is turned. Is this normal? I am hoping it is the relay and not the pump. What should I check next? The wires at the pump? What should they read?
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Truck is a '99 2WD with drum rear brakes. 81K miles. I rebuilt the rear brakes due to a leaking wheel cylinder. The old shoes were not completely gone, but were worn evenly - everything looked normal.
Not a professional wrench, but I've been re-doing my own drum brakes since the '60's, so it is not rocket science to me. Still, as a precaution, I did them one side at a time so as to have reference point, and also snapped a few cellphone pics just to be safe.
Replaced both wheel cylinders, all hardware, and of course the shoes. Gravity bled the cylinders first, followed by the old tried-and-true, wife in the driver's seat, "down-and-hold, now up" routine. Adjusted shoes to just contact drums lightly, and buttoned it up.
The problem is that I'm getting a violent chattering from the rear axle with either light or normal braking. The chattering is worse as the brakes warm up - shakes the whole truck. At first I thought I had a bad rear ABS sensor, but then I did a couple of stops just using the parking brake, and got the same chattering.
Now I've pulled the drums off to re-check. There is nothing loose, nothing out of place, nothing leaking, but there was a heck of a lot of brake dust in there and the lead shoes on both sides were noticeably more worn than the trailing shoes - and I've driven maybe 100 miles since the rebuild.
You can't reverse these shoes, since the trailing shoe has a peg to hold the automatic adjuster, so that is not the issue. The drums were turned less than 1000 miles ago, so I did not have them re-done at this point.
I had my "assistant" partly depress the brake pedal while I had the drums off to confirm that the cylinders were expanding both shoes, and they are.
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My 1999 4X4 is allergic to snow! In the morning, after a blowing snow night, the transmission won't shift up. 15 miles or more in low, sometimes second, before it will find drive. Something gets wet! It only happens right around the freezing point. Maybe the Manual Lever Position Switch, or whatever it's called, on the side of the trans?
Also the throttle hangs up and it wants to race about 2000 RPM at the same temp. That could be ice in the throttle body. Shut it off for five minutes and it's OK, but it darn near put me into a snowplow yesterday when it wouldn't slow down.
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I have a 1999 ford f150 v6 no 4x4 has wont shift from 2nd to 3rd, shifts fine from 1st to 2nd, after that tho there's nothing. What to do or what it could b?
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99 F-250 with the manual shift 4x4, feels like I'm arm wrestling with King Kong to get it to work, this is my first 4x4 but I'm inclined to think this is not normal. This used to be a PA truck so it is rusty, the cursory look I gave it showed me massive amount of rust on the 4x4 shift mechanism. Should I just replace it or can it be rebuilt? Also should I replace the manual shift cover on the transfer case also?
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I have a '99 E350 Ford van, V10, with 300K that runs like a charm until I slow down to stop. It begins to surge which will stop when I shift to neutral. I went to the local parts store and put it on their code reader. It only read 'left bank lean'. Nothing else.
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just bought the truck first time out hit some snow and it was not engaging low or high range, but I noticed that when I was backing up it was engaged again works in high and low range, i had to reverse about a mile up the road but it worked ? 99 4.2 standard with manual shift transfer case....
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I have a 1998 ford f150 with a 4.6 v8 it has about 170,000 miles on it. The truck seems to run hot when sitting still in park. I have replaced the radiator, the thermostat. I am lost at what could be causing this issue. when I am going the truck will cool down however if you ever let it get hot it takes longer to cool it down as opposed to getting in it and just going and not sitting before going.
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I am having problems with my 97 F150 6cyl. A couple of months ago, I noticed the truck after sitting for a few days without being started would not crank. After some trial and error, I found that turning the ignition switch on and off several times did the trick and the truck would crank right up. I was thinking this might be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue but, I'm not sure.
A couple of days ago I was going to drive the truck and did the ignition switch deal as usual and the truck cranked up but, there shortly after while just idling the motor died. I have tried and tried to crank it and it want start back. After thinking on it, I don't know if this is a fuel problem or not, or maybe even the ignition box.
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I have a 98 F150. The motor was replaced three months ago and have had no problems until now. The truck had trouble starting so i put an alternator on it. Fixed for a while and then it started blowing fuel relay fuses. I replaced fuel pump and filter. Truck has trouble starting after sitting overnight. When I am driving and floor it, once it hits about 4,000 rpms, the truck bucks like its the transmission but the rpms drop and then pick back up. Fuel pressure is right where its supposed to be.
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I have 97 F250 light duty equipped with factory rear air suspension. Truck has 180K miles. Both rear air bags were replaced about 100K miles ago under warranty (I didnt do it myself!). Both sensors and compressor are new within the last 18 months which I replaced myself. Recently, rear air bags have been deflating when truck is sitting idle. Compressor reinflates air bags as expected when struck is started but recently cannot maintain. Sprayed soapy water today on air bags and airlines and witnessed leak (due to air bubbles) at lower side of air bags on both sides. My conclusion is that air bags are culprit. Seems coincidence that both are leaking??
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I have a 1997 f-150, V-6 absolutely base model, a shade under 80,000 miles. I'm the second owner, and the truck was previously garaged most of the time but now sits out in the driveway. The truck has developed an issue where it will be increasingly hard to start (crank crank crank, intermittent cough) after it sits out in hot weather, which is a problem here in Southern California. When the problem is really bad, it can take all day to get it started (try, wait a bit, try again, etc.). When it does finally catch, it sometimes backfires, idles rough for a few seconds then runs like a champ. I can turn it off and restart it immediately, I can let it sit for an hour or three and restart it, but if it sits out in hot weather it gets increasingly hard to start.
I've scoured various forums, and I've tried every solution I can find. Cycling the key to get fuel in the rail, opening the hood to cool off the engine cavity, trying to start it before it gets hot outside, etc. The truck *is* throwing code p0443, and scouring other forums I think that's either the evap canister purge valve, which my last mechanic replaced, or possibly the charcoal canister, which has not been replaced, but I don't know if that could be contributing (the truck was throwing that code before the hard start developed).
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I started having trouble with the truck only starting in neutral and it was a trick to get it to start even then. I bought a new range sensor, bolted her up (with alignment marks in neutral) and she's still doing the same thing.
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I have a '98 F150 4.2l with 230k miles on it. A couple of days ago when starting, I noticed that the engine kept racing instead of idling down like it normally does and the weather here in Arkansas has approached the 80 degree mark. The engine also doesn't idle down when shifting (I have a manual tranny). Where to start? I don't have any codes stored other than two for bank 1 and bank 2 running lean but they popped up many miles ago. I'm thinking either a vacuum leak or throttle control. I checked the operation of the cable and the throttle valve and they appear to be fine. Maybe the idle air control?
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I have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
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I am having issues with my 2003 F150 4.6L truck. It just happened today when driving home. It started fine and then when I increased the speed and the rpms went up to about 2000rpms, the engine seemed to slip into neutral. I stepped on the gas but the truck would not accelerate, it was just coasting. I pulled over to the side of the road and came to a stop, but didn't shut off the engine.
After a few seconds, I proceeded to give it some gas, and it engaged in gear and accelerated...until I got to about 25mph & rpms increased to about 2000 again. It did the same exact thing....seemed to shift back to neutral so that I could not accelerate. I had to keep pulling over to come to a stop, and then slowly proceed again. I wasn't too far from home & I made it. What this issue could be?
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I bought this truck from a family member 03 7.3, it's been a park not garaged sense 09 when my cousin the original owner died. Was strong running when park. I started it yesterday after changing solenoid, hot battery, and I put some fuel stabilizer and 5 gallons of diesel in it. But I cut it off maybe two minutes after because I didn't want to break anything before I found out what's a few tips of things to do before I put her onda road because this is my first go round buying a diesel truck
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After setting up about 8 days, my truck has long start now. It starts but takes longer.
I plan to start with charging the batteries over night and see what happens. How old they are since I bought it last year. The batteries did drag just a tad when it started but seem to be back up after driving.
New ICP few months back. I have a couple scan tools.... Forscan and Dash Command. What to look for?
Last note: it starts fine, just takes longer now. Is plan to start tonight.
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