looking for any tech writeups or any good info on changing out timing chains on a '99 1/2ton with 5.4. I mostly am concerned about keeping it in time during the process.
View 5 RepliesJust started. Replace fuel pimp and bracket 8 months ago. Now, three times in two days ...freely cranks, but does not fire. It has been suggested by a key man that my ignition key "Ring Transponder(??) is failing, about a $50.00 part.
Any links to a step-by-step to where I could do this myself? ($$$). I don't know what to call it, so it makes it hard to search online. the part he referred to in under my ignition switch shroud...but that"s all I know. (I was driving when I talked to him and forgot the exact term he used (I'm old, and easily confused by anything post ignition points and condenser)
OK, my truck is making all kinds of horrible noises from the timing chain area. it is a 97 f150, 4wd with a 4.6. i know i need to replace it. BUT my question is, how long can i let it go before the chain breaks and sends valves into piston? And also what is the best timing set manufacturer? or are they all pretty good?
View 4 RepliesI have a 4.2 with 330km (206k miles). Recently I have noticed some unfamiliar sounds that I'm trying to diagnose. First off, lately when starting the truck cold, it sometimes makes a metallic screech /clank-like noise. It just lasts for a moment when the engine catches, then disappears. Doesn't happen every time but has happened at least 1/2 dozen times the last couple of weeks. Sounds like metal gears colliding. Haven't noticed any drive-ability issues.
As well, I changed the oil a couple of days ago and when I stuck my head under the truck afterwards to check for leaks, I could hear a definite rattling / clattering noise from the area near the oil filter.
Does this sound like timing chain?
Can you change the tensioners and guides without removing the chains or getting the cam lock tools ? Doing a in truck repair to fix a squeal sorta noise at start up without the belt on coming from passenger side valve cover that lasts for about 5 sec. oh fyi CRC new freeze off works wonders compared to jb blaster for my tear down so far!
View 6 RepliesJust did my first oil change on my 2015 Super Duty 6.2 engine. I got the Fram filter the book called for, a PH-2. There's goobs of room for the longer filter. Would that be the PH8A? The book is about to trying to figure the comparable long vs short filter. Why do they insist on those short filters when a full size will fit? My Dodge Ram Hemi was the same way.
View 14 RepliesActually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
View 4 RepliesExperiencing a really bad rattle after changing the oil? It sounds like the chain tensioners are losing pressure during the oil change.
View 11 RepliesLooking for info if the R32 has a timing belt or is it a chain and at how many kilometers shows it be changed.
View 5 RepliesI am changing the passenfer side exhaust manifold on my '00 150. The bolts all came out fairly easy, sprayed them often in PB over the last 2 days, my problem is the 2nd and 3rd nuts on the bottom are under the motor mount. Do I need to remove that or is there an easier way that I'm missing.
View 11 RepliesHow much tranny oil it will take for just a pan drain and filter change, 2000 f 150, 7700, 4x4, 5-4....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 F150 Supercrew 4.6L 2wd truck. Just added a set of 32" tires to it. Trucks runs and drives great, so thing I don't like is that around town in traffic it shifts into OD to so. Is there a way of changing the OD shift point?
View 4 RepliesI tried to change my filter today and I couldn't get the outlet side off after removing the clip, is there a trick to it.
View 8 RepliesYesterday i went to mechanic and changed Timing chain tensioners, with chains and all guides. But still have 2 second voice on startup, once oil pressure lights off everything fine. I paid heavy price on parts and labour but very disappointed after hear same noise again today morning which i was listening from one year purchase of this car... Sonata 3.3l v6 ....
View 4 RepliesWhen I accelerate i get a loud squeal until my truck changes a few gears. Its only when I accelerate and only if my trucks warm and has been running or a few minutes. Cold start it wont happen right away. What it is or could be. Changed my serpentine belt that didn't work...
View 7 Repliesll, I changed out the master cylinder on my 2002 F-150, disk brakes front and back w/ ABS. Bleed all the air out and bench bleed the master cylinder. I have good pedal but the brake light will not go out.
View 6 RepliesTruck Specs: 1997 F250 LD 184000 miles and a 5.4, automatic, shift on the fly 4x4 extended cab.
What I did: Changed the exhaust manifold gasket on the right side. There were some broken studs which came out with a stud remover.. No torch was used during this evolution.
What happened: After driving 10-15 miles it set the codes that I listed in the subject line. Reset the codes 20 or so miles later the P1131 code set again. (both times there was a noticeable loss of engine power) The upper O2 sensor checked out with a meter. When I checked the voltage on the truck's harness plug referenced to the NEG terminal on the battery, both the power and gnd had 12V- Key On Engine Not Running (KOENR).
What I did: Cleaned the connections put dielectric grease in the connections and reassembled. Reset codes; all was well ~ 100 Miles later the codes are back. I also ran a continuity check from the plug to the control module, they check out fine.
I bought a 2000 Ex PSD 4x4 in september. I have refreshed the suspension in the last 4 months; leafs, shocks, etc. I developed a vibration over 50mph after I installed the suspension and have been chasing it since.
I have replaced the U Joints, professionally balanced and lubed driveshaft twice, adjusted driveshaft angle to less than 1*, replaced the flanges for the TC output and the driveshaft companion flange. I have not touched the diff, but there is no decernable play in the pinion or leaks. Also, I removed the rear housing of the TC and replaced the output needle bearing and seal 2 weeks ago.
The output of the TC still has 1/4" play and a clicking noise coming just forward of the chain section of the TC. I assume the play is coming from other bearings on the main shaft in the TC.
I am about to purchase a remanufactured TC, but before I do, I need a reality check. Is it possible there is damage to the output bearing of the Transmission or something else?
I don't want to buy a TC to put in and experience a TC failure again in a short time. It doesn't make sense to me that there would still be so much play after changing the output shaft needle bearing of the TC if the TC main shaft is supported not just from the TC bearings but the output of the transmission unless there was possible play in the output of the transmission.
Last summer my A/C and blower stopped working while I was driving on a hot day in July. After replacing blower resistor, the fan works but still no A/C. I tried recharging refrigerant but the pressure in the lines was too high. Also it didn't seem A/C compressor was working either. I suffered through the hot summer only to find when winter came the Heat quit working as well. I noticed antifreeze smell in cabin and put liquid aluminum to stop the leak and still no heat. I planned on pulling the dash and replacing the heater core but wondered while the dash is off could there be something to replace in here on the A/C as well?
View 5 RepliesQuick question. If you unplug the vacuum lines from the solenoids will it enable the 4x4? Is there a way to enable the 4x4 full time?
View 6 RepliesI know it will wear out the tires but will it hurt the front end? Also the drive shafts to the front end is not turning.
View 1 Replies