Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - Bed Floor Shot - Weld It?
Aug 1, 2012
Alright so I got ripped off on a truck that I just bought. Among all the other issues the main one is the bed. The side panels and tailgate are immaculate but the floor is shot. I read in another thread how everyone patched the holes but my issue goes much deeper. Even the bed frame is shot. Is there any way I can get a piece of steel cut to size and put new pieces for the frame and just weld it together? Id hate to have to buy a whole new bed because I am short on cash trying to start school and doing other repairs to what I thought was gonna be a perfect truck. It has the 6.5ft "Styleside" or flareside bed.
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I have a 2002 f150 lariat super crew 4x2 with a 5.4L engine with 145,000 miles. My tranny is shot, and i was told it happened because the tranny cooler went bad. A few people have told me it sounds strange that the cooler went bad on its own. The truck is still at the shop that diagnosed it and i cant seem to figure out if it has the 4R70w or the 4r100 tranny in it. Is this something that's standard or something i will have to look at on the truck itself to figure out.
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I have a 99 F150, Regular cab, long bed, with a weird brake problem. With the engine off, the pedal goes firm about 3 inches. But when you start it, the pedal goes to the floor.
I've replaced the master cylinder, and bled the heck out of the 4 wheel cylinders. No soap. The pedal goes nearly to the floor, and does not "pump up".....but does stop the truck.
The ABS light is "on".
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My 1999 F150 Supercab has developed a water leak which I would like to ask your opinions on. Parked on a 20 degree incline during a pouring rain yesterday, I came out to find a small puddle in the driver's side rear floor corner and about an ounce of water pooled in a little lip at the bottom of the rear window in the right corner of the window! Haven't started tearing anything apart yet (and might not be able to myself), but it seems that it is possibly the rear window seal as the window and the outside body area appear to be in good shape otherwise (no visible rust, no seal obviously dislocated, etc).
Also, don't know if it's related, the other day I jacked up the truck with a floor jack under the front crossmember but a bit off center which caused the truck to twist a bit before both wheels came off the ground. While doing this, I heard and felt a loud bang like something broke in the frame! Couldn't see anything out of place and something similar has happened before where a lug of the jack cup had shifted slightly while jacking the vehicle and it caused a loud bang to be heard, but this time it didn't quite feel like it was at the jack but further back.
Could something have "broken" in the truck that I can't quite see and thus this leak has occurred which wasn't there previously or could it just be coincidence that the bang and leak occurred so close in time to each other. I know it's hard to diagnose something like this without seeing the vehicle or really know what happened but I just had to put it out there as part of the events that occurred within the timeline for this leak.
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I started to do my manifold and am 2 and 2. I got 2 out and two broke on top. So far I haven't been able to do anything w the bottom. I have basically seen 2 ways to get the studs out when they break. The first I'd to drill w an ez out and the 2nd is to weld a nut on. I'm not great w a drill and can't weld. I was wondering if using JB weld might be an option. I have never used the stuff but supposedly it's pretty strong. Is there any risk of welding the nut to the head?
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I have an 03 F250 5.4L
Driving down the highway today, I notice my truck was jerking forward a little, hard to notice almost felt like I was hitting very small pot holes. I revved up a little to see if I could notice any noises and I got a loud pop. after the pop, got a noise like an exhaust leak so I pulled off to the side of the highway and popped the hood (engine still running). Noticed the noise coming from the passenger side most forward spark plug. Then noticed the part that the coil attaches too had broke off from its bracket and was unseated, shut off the engine and pulled it out to find the coil cover had melted to the coil.
The spark plug inside was moving freely so I took it out thinking it stripped from the header. Come to find that the plug had actually separated from its threading completely so just the core part of the plug had shot out from the cylinder, the threading and socket attachment portion still fully attached. I installed a new spark plug and new coil harness and coil. Seems to be running as good as new now. Is there more to this than a simple blown plug that I need to worry about?
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I was driving my bosses f550 with a 7.3, and while towing a loaded 40' flatbed of hay, it started bloing white smoke and lost all power and had almost no pedal feel. It wouldnt even go past 2500 RPM. Then, all of a sudden, it started billowing black, and BOOM backfired and shot flames out the exhaust. Then, I pulled over at a parts store and replaced the fuel filter, which worked for a while, but then it started blowing white smoke again. Once I limped it home and unhooked it, I took it out and let her rev a bit and it seemed to stop blowing smoke, but it still has less than the normal power it used to have. It has 226000 miles and is completely stock.
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I bought a 97 f150 4x4 last week. I was cleaning the frame up with a wire brush on a grinder and accidently cut one of the front brake lines. Seeing how this truck has only 100k on it and all oem stuff on it, I decided to replace the front brake components, calipers, pads, rubber and steel lines. Got it all back together and bleed the air out of the front brakes. But the pedal still goes to the floor. I can pump them up with the key off but when i turn it on the pedal goes to the floor. I did not bleed the back brakes becasue I assumed that the master cylinder would be divided and independent of each other- back and front. So it this just that the back brakes needs bled or do I have another issue like bad booster- everything was working well before I cut the line?
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I have a 2003 F-150 supercrew 4x4, was having problems with the brake pedal going to the floor, had replaced the front calipers, master cylinder and the brake booster. I have blead everything out including the rear calipers even though I didn`t touch them, the truck stops but the pedal isn't what it used to be, even when the truck is off the pedal has a tendency to go down, there is nothing leaking and not losing fluid, don`t know what else to do?
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The brake pedal intermittently goes to the floor on my nephew's 2003 F150 without grabbing at all. Pumping the brakes restores them, then they act normally for a while. I've replaced the master cylinder with a new Motorcraft unit, no change. No ABS codes. All rubber lines are in good shape. I'm stumped, although I suspect the ABS system somehow. I'm going to have him pull the ABS fuse and see if the problem goes away.
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I have a ford f150 supercab XLT with the 4.6L triton. It starts and idles absolutely fine but when i push the gas to fast(when in park) it bogs down. I just changed the fuel filter aslo...No change.
If I floor it it Bogs then goes up to about 3000rpm (about halfway) and has trouble moving over that RPM or halfway. like theres a restriction of some sort.
If I gradually push the gas, it will go up in rpms and i can get it to about 2000 rpms then I can tack the rpm gauge out if I wanted. but never do.
Also when driving, it seems as if its lacking power..and just to add it does all this stuff while in gear also..
When running It smells of an exhaust leak. but I cant find one. And I cant smell it in the cab.
So there it is. If I think of anything else, or do anything. I will keep posting.
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Drove to work in 6" of snow in 4H with no issues. Shifted back into 2H for drive home as roads were clear with no issues. Went to shift into 4H moments ago and floor shifter will not move!
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2002 F-150 4x4 w/ 5.4 v-8. Brake pedal goes half way to floor before it starts to stop the vehicle. I have replaced and bled the master cylinder, bled out all of the calipers, and the calipers are installed correctly because the bleeder screws are at the top on all of them so no air can be trapped up there. The truck seems to stop fine, but just takes more pedal to get it to start stopping than I'm comfortable with. Could the ABS unit need bled out too? Or could it be an adjustment issue with the booster rod?
Also, something else I noticed, and it may be related..the ABS unit usually makes a slight clanking sound (like someone kicking a metal garbage can) a couple seconds after the key is turned on. I know its the ABS unit because a couple weeks ago I had a friends scanner hooked up to the truck, and I went into the ABS computer to clear the codes (have ABS light on from what I found to be a bad sensor wire on the front drivers side according to the scanner) and as soon as i cleared the codes on the ABS, it made that sound. I don't know if maybe there is something wrong with the ABS actuator, or if it's related to the brake pedal issue.
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I have a 2000 SCrew KR F150. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal was slowly going to the floor while at a red light. I pulled over and popped the hood checked the fluid reservoir. It was full, so obviously no wheel cylinder issues or fluid loss. I haven't had a chance to tear into it yet.
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4x4 wont work, when I shift the lever on the floor it doesn't engage so i bought two new solenoids.. didn't work, have power on both solenoid connections. If I unhook my vacuum lines from the solenoid, I can push the Actuator rod in making my 4x4 work. I've gone threw everything.. have vacuum, have power on my solenoids. Just nothing works when I shift into 4x4 on the floor.
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1998 F150 XLT 4.6l automatic,,,
Drove the truck on a trip the other day, about 650 miles with a loaded 5x8 trailer in tow. A/C started acting weird. When the truck was on level ground, or going down hill, the A/C was fine. Cold air coming out the correct dash vents. As soon as I started up hill, or put the truck under strain of acceleration, the A/C would stop blowing out the dash vents and would start coming out the floor or defrost vents, or just not come out anywhere.
When I turned the A/C off and just used the vent setting, it would do the same thing with the fresh air. I guessing this has something to do with my vacuum lines, somewhere. What I should be looking for and where?
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Last week my brake pedal started going to the floor when I stopped, it still stopped and felt fine on the top half of the pedal travel but then it would just slowly fade to the floor. I took it to a local shop and they said the master cylinder was leaking internally and my rear brakes were shot. I have 75,000 miles and the rear brakes were original so I told them to fix it. This is basically what I expected it to be.
They kept thinking they were getting defective master cylinders but after the two Napa parts and two Carquest parts they realized they misdiagnosed it and said I needed to take it to the dealership. I paid for the rear brake job since it needed done anyways and have an appointment for next week at the dealership. What might be causing the problem? I see no brake fluid leaks, no vacuum leaks, the booster was replaced 25,000 miles ago due to noise, no ABS light on, no CEL on, no other symptoms.
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I have an 02 f150 ext cab fx4 with just under 140,000 miles my first problem was when I shift from reverse to drive I have a loud clunk/bang I was trying to find out what was wrong so my brother in law was looking out the drive shaft he pushed it into the rear end now when I am over 65mph and take my foot off the gas I have a vibration but only when I take my foot off the gas and above 60-65mph the steering wheel or peddles don't vibrate but the floor does .
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I bought a 2002 body with a late 99 engine with lower miles a couple years ago. I knew it had an oil leak when I bought it. My other truck had a turbo pedestal leak. This truck has a small pedestal leak but it's not that much of an issue as there is little oil in the valley and next to nothing running down the back of the engine.
The other leak is getting worse. It has been leaking somewhere up front and coats the main steering arm off the steering box, the lower rad hose and the rest of the steering linkage. Last night after driving around 100 Kms I have oil running out from under the engine across the floor.
I changed the LPOP after thinking the front leak was from there. Unfortunately i don't think it was.
I am hoping it's the oil cooler and not the HPOP. One other thing is before yesterday's trip, I installed my homemade ccv mod off my other truck. I don't think the leak is coming from that either.
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Okay I'm also having issues with vibrations on the floor board. I replaced the carrier bearing last week and not sure if correctly done or maybe I didn't get the splines in the exact order they came out in but the vibration is still there if not worse. I was thinking I could order a new rear drive shaft for around 350.00? would it matter how it was installed?
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Was looking for a cat back exhaust for my 04 FX4 and was curious if they involve any welding or just strictly bolt on?
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