Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - All Wheel Won't Engaging - Front End Is Not Pulling?
Feb 3, 2013
I just got a 99 Ford f150 with the 4.6. I am having problems getting the four wheel drive to engage. I turn the on the dash and the lights come on for four high and for four low. I have a 00 four by four and it works fine, so I know how to work it. In the 99 I can hear the transfer case engaging and everything clicks just fine just like it's going into fourwheel drive, but the front end is not pulling. The front drive shaft is turning but still the front end is not engaged. What the problem may be?
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I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 and the four wheel drive isn't working properly. It does work,but to get it to engage I had to drive in reverse for a couple feet then it locked it and everything was fine,pretty sure that isn't normal. What could be wrong with it? As soon as I turn the lights up on the dash,but the front tires don't spin.
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My selector switch does not light up when engaging four wheel drive on my 98 f150,could this be my GEM module gone bad ?
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My 4 wheel drive is not engaging on a 2001 F150. The indicator lites on the dash illuminate to suggest that the truck is in 4 wheel drive but sigh...it stays in 2 wheel drive. No gross sounds and the indicator lights are not flashing. Could this be a fuse or a relay issue of some sort. What else should I try?
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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In 30 years of wrenching on cars, I've never encountered this problem. Replaced the pads and left rotor. Rotor is typical Chinese rotor. While there, replaced the wheel bearings. Also knocked out the races (with a brass drift) and replaced the races with the ones that came with the new wheel bearings. The bearings are NAPA bearings. Packed the wheel bearings just like always.
Applied some grease just like always on the spindle. Put it all back together. Tightened the wheel bearing nut while rotating the rotor in the opposite direction. Went to maybe 10 ft lbs. Backed the nut off, set it firm finger tight. Installed the cotter pin. Got a whole bunch of sloppiness in the wheel bearings. I can feel a LOT of it when rotating from the 6 o clock and 12 o clock position. What did I miss? NEVER had this happen before. 2002 f 150 2wd
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I had my front driver side wheel bearing blow on me, out of nowhere, while doing about 70mph on my '03 Supercrew 2wd. it really destroyed my spindle and rotor. i replaced everything from the spindle out (rotor,pad,caliper,caliper mounts, bearings,etc). I packed the bearing really good and put it all back together. Well, it happened again, same thing. Doing about 70 and it just blew out of nowhere. Why it could be happening??
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I recently bought a 1998 f-250, regular cab, long bed, 4x4, 5.4l triton, automatic. The truck was involved in a wreck by the previous owner and I am trying to repair the damage. He hit some ice, slid off the road, and collided with a log cabin.
The visible damage was done to the driver side front. The bumper, grill/surround, header panel, headlight, turn signal, fender, and hood all need to be replaced. When you drive the truck there is a shimmy coming from the front that can be felt in the steering wheel. When going straight and releasing the steering wheel it pulls to the passenger side. The driver side front rim might be bent? Which might prove interesting if I have to replace it (7x150mm).
This is my first Ford truck. I was willing to take the gamble on fixing it up. I hope that it works out and I am able to do so. What years/models can I source these parts from?
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Going down a steep loose gravel drive way, going maybe 5 miles per hour. About 50 feet before the stop sign we lightly applied the brakes and the front right wheel completely locked up. If we didn't turn into the grass we would of stopped in the middle of the busy street. We picked up speed when we applied the brakes, like we were on ice. When I got out, I could see the one long brake mark in the driveway. This happened on a paved road about 6 months ago, it had some loose gravel at the stop sign. I couldn't tell which wheel locked up at the time. This happened on snow in December to, twice. Since the ABS light never came on. Brake pads and rotors needed replacing about 9 months ago. Tires have been rotated, no change. Not sure what it could be. I disconnected the Abs fuse for now.
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I am having a problem with my 1998 F150 4x4. The 4WD is not engaging. It is a manual shift. I have checked the transfer case by turning the drive shaft in 2WD it is free. When I shift into 4WD it is does not spin freely. So I believe that is OK. I have checked the vaccum diaphram. It will move the piston when I attach a hose and pull vacuum on the inboard hose barb. So I believe the diaphram it self is OK. I am not sure if the hoses and selenoids are OK. They look fine. However there is a constant vacuum on the inboard hose line (red/pink color) wether I am in 4WD or not. Is this OK? How can I check the selenoids. If all this is OK, the next thing I believ it could be is the shift fork in the differential. Is that a difficult job? Do you need to pull the whole axle out to replace it?
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Had crunching sounds from front passenger side. Replaced CVJ shaft and hub bearing/assembly noise gone but tire turns hard by hand drivers side turns freely. Looked on line and guy had same thing going on said maybe 4x4 vacuum actuator might be bad and truck stuck in four wheel .does this sound right? I have manual trans and gear box so I don't understand why the actuator is even there.
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03 F150 2WD-I dropped tranny pan, changed filter, reassembled, put in 4 qts fluid. Checked dipstick, seemed to be overfilled, despite instructions to add 5 qts. Started truck, put it in reverse, went about 4 feet and then tranny wouldn't engage-ran it through all gears, just acts like in park or neutral. Over or Under filled???
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Found out the hard way that the 4wd does not work on this new stupid truck. I've been troubleshooting the solenoids and confirmed that the 2wd solenoid gets grounded and will read ~12V when switched to 4wd; however, the 2wd solenoid always remains grounded and will always read 12V across the plug no matter if it's in 2wd,4hi,4lo. What would cause this? It seems that I would have vacuum going to the front differential from both the 2wd and 4wd solenoids at the same time, thus not allowing it to go into 4wd. BTW, this is on a '98, 4.6, turn dial 4wd
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I was out on the lake last night and after getting stuck in 6" of hard packed snow, I discovered that my 4WD is not engaging. When engaging 4WD, I do hear 2 clicks several seconds apart. I've checked the lines from the solenoids to the actuator and did not find any cracks. I have not checked the lines for vacuum yet but...
Last winter while engaging 4WD, I heard a load POP from the front end when I was turning the wheel and engaging 4WD. Ever since then, I haven't been sure if its been engaging but it was confirmed yesterday on the lake. Based on what I've read, I assume its either the actuator or the shift fork. Is it possible to remove the actuator and test it without disassembling the entire front end?
I went under the truck and had my wife engage and disengage the 4WD. The actuator was trying to move (maybe 1/16" inch) but the shift fork wasn't moving. Does this mean the shift fork is bad (frozen) or does this mean the actuator is bad (not enough power to move the fork)?
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2002 Lexus Rx300. The recent problem that I have been having is that various times when I go to accelerate my car from a stop position, i.e. stop sign, red light, my car will act as if something is getting stuck at the front right wheel pulling my car to the right and not allowing me to accelerate. It will make a grinding sounding noise. I have to usually lift my foot off the accelerator, straighten out the wheel and then press the gas again for the car to move. Sometimes the action it strong enough it causes the 'Slip Indicator' light to come up on my dash. It will happen at almost every stop light so driving in the city it gets rather annoying. At long distances on highways everything is fine because I'm not in a stop and go situation. My mechanic can't seem to figure out what the problem is so nothing has been fixed about it.
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I have a 2014 RX350 with 20K miles.
Recently noticed the steering wheel pulling a bit to the right. I took the car to a local Conrad's Auto service place which I believe is very reputable.
They told me the vehicle is out of alignment and to contact my Lexus dealer because they would likely fix for no charge given the low miles.
I brought the car to Lexus dealer and they said nothing is wrong. Not sure if they did anything but I did not notice the pulling to the right at that time.
However, I am noticing the wheel pull to the right again. Not sure what to do here. I also had a 2011 RX and never noticed an issue.
What can I do here to determine if there's a problem or not?
My Lexus dealer is over 30 miles away so it's not a convenient drive. Also, I have no proof of anything just the wheel pulling a bit to the right.
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i have a 1997 f150 2wd and it has a 4.6 litre v8, it runs good but it seems to have no power when pulling a trailer anymore, it has 321,465 miles on it, original motor and transmission, it uses about a half a quart of oil every 2500 to 2800 miles between oil changes, the trailer i pull is just a small car trailer i have always pulled it with the truck, what could be causing it to lose power?
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soo a friends 03 f-150 w/ the 4.6 has noticed the a/c compressor clutch engaging while heater is on. clutch engages for about 3 seconds or so and kicks back out consistently but only w/ the heater on. a/c dose function property when using a/c functions... Is this normal or does something need serviced???
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I have a 2003 F150 manual 4WD with 4.6L engine and 165000 miles. When i am driving i feel a vibration in the steering wheel and on floor board that intensifies when i press the accelerator. I do hear an irregular humming that sounds like it is coming from the driver side front. I checked the wheel for any play but it was very tight. i check tie rod ends, ball joints no play. i recently changed both u-joints on the rear shaft and the bearing hub on the passenger side front. Also, the steering feels a little 'wobbly' when i make sharp turns. it almost feels like it is giving. What else should i check?
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So i drive a 2001 F150 4.6L and over the last couple of years it has started pulling down and shaking heavily. I have taken it to mechanics and it always gave a code as a miss. well we replaced the coils and the plugs and of course it still has the problem. finally we did a compression test and it shows that #3 and #5 have no compression and the mechanic said it was either a blown head gasket, a valve or a cracked head. it has 230K miles on it so i was wondering what your thoughts on it were and also if it would be cheaper just to swap the motor.
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I have a F150, 97, 4.6L. I changed my Suspension belt, and now my A/C compressor is not engaging. This has happened before, and when I took it to the shop, they called me and said the A/C works just fine. They did not tell me why the A/C stopped engaging or what they did. I tried to locate a relay fuse, but I can't find it.
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