Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 - AC Clutch Would Try To Spin But Very Intermittently Now Dead
Jul 21, 2012
How can I determine if my compressor is bad or is the solinoid/clutch bad. Truck had sat for about 9 months-1yr. A/C hadn't been operated for an additional 5-6 months. It worked like a freezer before I parked the truck. When i started the truck back up and tried the a/c the clutch would try to spin but very intermittently, now not at all. What direction should I go?
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1999 f150 4x4 reg cab V6 standard, 4x4 shifter on the floor, pull it into high light comes on, front diff actuator goes in, put in 1st only back tires spin, put in reverse front and back spin (I was on a patch of icy road) I can hear a slight clicking noise maybe when in forward gear but its very quiet so could be normal? When I am underneath everything seems to be working and engaged.
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I just got my 2003 passat 1.8T 5 speed. i noticed that every time i come up to 1500 to 3000 rmp in 3rd gear the clutch or what ever that is hesitates to spin. I am wondering what could it be? and the other day when i was driving in the freeway i noticed that when ever i get to 78-80mph i feel or the car starts to vibrate. does my car needs alignment?
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My '99 F150 has an issue. The green digital display had one portion of a station number and one indicator section on the volume display that will intermittently cut out and reappear for no apparent reason. What is happening?
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What type of fan clutch silicone fluid is used in case you need to replace some during removal?(99 ford f150 5.4 vin L)
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I have a '99 f150 singlecab xl sport 4.2 2wd 5spd with 139,xxx miles on her. Shes's a good truck, but second gear is shot, I can only get into it by double clutching, and that only sometimes works. I have a couple questions, the first one being what do yall think the problem is. To me and my friends it seems like the syncro mesh. Second, if it is something major, is it even worth saving the truck? I know she isn't worth a ton but I hate to go through the hassle of selling and buying a car.
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I have a 1999 F-150 with the 4.2L engine. I recently did a motor swap as the original motor was bad. I bought this truck as a project truck and have enjoyed working on it.
When I did the engine swap back in May of this year, it took a while to work out all the little bugs and quirps. However, after a while of running the truck it threw a few codes. I replaced a lot of the emission components and no more codes for several months until last month the truck started throwing the infamous P0174 "too lean bank two"... I have replaced the pcv valve and all the hoses to include the little rubber boot under the front of the intake, all 4 O2 sensors, MAF sensor, EGR, DPFE, IAC valve, new wires and plugs to include coil pack, fuel pressure regulator, and all the vacuum lines that are under the hood.
The truck runs fine, has power, but about every couple weeks or so it throws this P0174 code. I know there are alot of threads on here about this problem and I have read many of them. It only throws the P0174 and not the P0171. I am wondering if there could be a problem specific to "bank 2" that I am over looking.
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Ok, so the OD light sometimes blinked and sometimes not. I drive for a week. About 500-600 mi. Today the tranny starts acting up. Up until today NO probs at all. I bought a code scanner. Codes are P0781, and P0743. I also bought new filter and fluid while there. I read here that it could be a shift spring that is easily accessed when doing the filter change. I guess I should get that and do it,and the filter and see what happens next?
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I have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
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I bought this truck for work and all of a sudden it will rev real high when I press the clutch in to switch gears or when sitting at a light. I stopped at a parking lot and popped the hood and tried to pull the throttle back by hand but it will not go. There is a lil slack in the throttle cable but when the truck is off and I manually pull the throttle back it returns normally.
I was wondering if the little black electronic box opposite where the throttle hooks to the throttle body is making it rev so high? I really don't know a lot about these newer trucks as I have driving older trucks my whole life so probably using wrong terms...
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On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
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2002 7.3 PS TD.
Lately sometimes when I get in and start the truck all is well. Then the next time it will spin like a top, but not fire. New batteries. Then it will fire right up. It may go a few weeks, or days, then it happens again. Temperature does not seem to be a factor. It also doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold. Once when rounding a corner at low speed, it just died, then started right up.
I recently changed the fuel and air filters. I think the glow plugs are getting old. In cool weather I turn the key on for about 1 min. before cranking. I have 110,000 on the engine with all original parts.
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About 2 weeks ago it would turn over and cough and then just spin. After a few minutes it would crank. Last week it didn't do it at all, this morning when I am loaded and headed to Atlanta for work it wouldn't crank at all. I didn't have any starting fluid so I tried some cleaner and it would cough and just spin. I'm thinking fuel pressure but I just don't know.
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I just bought this 2006 f350 lariat. The instrument cluster, radio, pwr windows (and prob other things) will go dead intermittently. No rime or reason, some days no prob, others, several time a day. Always come back by itself, cycling the power has no effect. I if it is shut down during a no power episode it will not run right till the power comes back to the dash, radio, windows. Looking on line seems to be a common problem with the "retained power accessory relay" circuit in the instrument cluster. I found nothing on a DIY fix...
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On occasion my battery (new) goes dead. Sounds like a battery leak? How do I test for this? I have a Cnc odb2 tester, test light, multi meter and alternator tester.
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My dad has a 97 f150 ext cab and the gauges are dead.... What would cause this? I've checked the faq but didn't see anything.
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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1997 F-150 XLT Extended cab. 4.6L VIN 6, 5 speed manual, 4x4. Replaced speed sensor on transfer case, speedometer is not completely dead but bounces around. Seems to be about 10 mph below actual speed. When I come to a stop say at a red light speedometer drops to zero at about 20 mph or so. Cruise also inop. It seems like whenever I let off the gas to stop or shift gears the speedometer drops down but then goes back up but not to the right speed. It has the mechanical odometer by the way. Everything else seems to be working fine. New speed sensor did not come with the plastic gear so I had to reuse the old one. Not sure if that gear was bad or not, but it was the pink one if that matters.
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My 2001 F150 was dead, my son came in and told me Dad when I open the door I hear a clicking. Upon investigation a relay in fuse panel was clicking and I had to jump start the truck. NOTE- The truck has a brand new battery purchased 3 days prior to this issue.
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2001 F150 ext cab lariat 4x4. My father passed away last christmas and my mother would like to have his truck running. A little back ground truck has a 4.6 has always lacked power. Ford did a motor job on it at ten thousand miles saying it was assembled wrong at factory. #seven cylinder has been dead for years. This spring the cat plugged up on drivers side. The local mechanic put two new aftermarket cats on it. Worked ok for a day. Then started acting up. Truck seems to only be running on three or four cylinders. It will start right up but won't rev up if you put it in gear it stalls. My uncle was s Ford mechanic for years and means well but is too busy to fix it. She has been waiting since may for him to look at it. He claims the problem is likely the wiring harness for the O2 sensors that runs behind the engine. Does this seem reasonable?
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I think I have a battery issue but wanted to ask the group in case someone ran into this before.
Went to start my truck this morning and did the normal dead battery sound but doesn't have enough power to turn the engine. I can see the engine start to turn but can't get over compression.
So I bought a new Interstate battery from Costco, installed it, and same problem. Hooked up a charger and it showed 25%. Let it charge for 4 hours, now it's at 50% and still won't turn over.
I'm going to wait over night and let it charge, but I wanted to ask the group if there is any known problems (Beyond battery) that would do this.
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