I have a 1999 f150 5.4L that will drive normal and all of a sudden it will spit and sputter, the CEL comes on for a second or two, then it’s all over and its back to running normal. I changed the plugs, and fuel filter and it still does it periodically. Vacuum leak?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 f250 super duty with the 5.4 Triton motor with a 5 speed. I bought the truck a couple months ago, and it had a bad manifold leak (not surprised lol). but it ran fine just noisy. So i had a shop do new gaskets and bolts. Then my problems started.........
When you start up the truck she runs fine and some times drives fine. I will be driving along and its like some one hits a switch and i suddenly loose all power it spits and sputters and i have to down shift to make any kind of hill.
So I figures I had a misfire i got a light on for cylinder 5. So I decided to change all coils and plugs hoping that would clear things up...... well it didn't. It ran great for roughly 15 miles then it started to do the same thing again. I've changed air filter and fuel filter also.
When it starts sputtering i sometimes get a check engine light on and then it goes away. when the light is on the codes are:
P1151 A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time.
Read more at: [URL] ....
P1152 Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2
Read more: P1152 FORD Lack of Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Switch Sensor Indicates Rich Bank 2 | AutoCodes
Both codes come on together always. but it will go away when the sputtering clears up. I just checked fuel pressure its at 32psi at a idle.
Truck spits and sputters when it starts up..and now it does it more often New spark plugs, new fuel pump and filter New mass air flow. I changed fuel octain and that work for a few weeks and back it spits...... It seems that when I put something new in the truck it runs great for a few weeks and then it starts up again...... I can not find a fuel regulator that fits the one that is on the truck now......so I have not replaced it........
View 4 RepliesI've recently replaced the timing chains on my sons 04 F-150 5.4. Now I'm getting a code PO174. I've changed 2 coil packs, fuel filter, MAF sensor and cleaned all the connections. Fuel filter had what looked like brown fuel coming out of the in line of the filter. I'm stressed out now, the truck does not even have enough power to drive up the driveway. Backfires, spits and sputters, has rough idle.
View 4 RepliesCar spits and sputters when engine is cold. When engine is warm car runs fine. I believe that my cold start injector or my cold start injector time switch is bad. 7MGE Toyota Supra ....
View 10 RepliesMy Honda has a strange problem that is vexing my mechanic. While I am driving, the engine spits and sputters and sometimes dies. I try to restart and it starts right up but runs rough. Sometimes it takes a while to start back up. If I wait a few minutes, it will start again and drive fine for a while. Then it will do it again. After it is warm or when it is cold at the start, it won't do it.My mechanic cannot get it to do it long enough to diagnose. The computer is not throwing any codes. I believe it is electrical because when it does this, the speedometer goes crazy bouncing up and down. Electrical problem also may explain why the computer is not throwing any codes. I need to narrow it down because my mechanic is reluctant to start trying things as I don't have a lot of money to throw at this.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Town and Country with the 3.3L V6. The last four times I filled the gas tank the engine spits and sputters after running for 2 - 3 minutes. Sometimes it will even stall out. It will re-start after cranking for 4 - 5 seconds and then runs fine. It only does this right after I fill the tank and doesn't do it again until the next fill up. Thought that I might have water in the tank so I added a bottle of HEET to see if it would cure the problem, no effect at all..
View 4 RepliesMy mother has a 2003 Ford Taurus. I really hate this car, but she wants it fixed. It sputters in drive when your taking off and it barely goes up hills. There is no sputter in idle or park. I put on new fuel filter and spark plugs on it and cleaned the idle air control. What should I try next?
View 19 RepliesI have a 99 4.2L 5 speed reg. cab swb. It recently started idling high (which returns to normal at a stop after 3-5 seconds). While in neutral and in motion (coasting) the idle is around 1500-2k (idle=no throttle input from me). The first time it did this it took a while to start (7-10 seconds) and smoked like you wouldnt believe for about ten seconds. Smoke cleared, eyes returned to normal size, heart rate returned to "normal", but the high idle remains. Drives me nuts. No CEL, no codes, just a fat bald man scratching his head and a little nervousness.
View 5 RepliesIt just doesn't end lately. I've noticed over the last several months, when it rains and I start the engine I would hear an underhood squealing noise. Like a belt or pulley. After the engine warmed up a bit, and the engine bay dried out, the squeal would go away. After a rain about a month back, I opened the hood to listen but wasn't able to locate the exact source of the squeal. Never gave it any more thought.....until this evening. I was driving in our New England Nor'easter in 4 whl drive mode with the wipers on HI, the defroster and blower on HI, and the headlamps and dash lights illuminated, when suddenly the dash lights dimmed about 40%, the blower slowed down about the same, and the wiper speed dropped as well from HI to about low speed. This was shortly followed by an underhood squeal which sounded a lot like the one I've experienced recently. After about 20 secs, the squeal would disappear and the power would quickly return to all accessories! This happened about 4 or 5 times and I returned home and parked it as I did not want to be stranded during the blizzard with a dead truck. The battery voltage gauge needle on the dash never seemed to move so I'm a bit stumped.
View 14 RepliesI have a 01 f-150, 4.6L, with 160k miles on it. Symptoms: It idles fine with an occasional surge. It sputters in all gears like a misfire (all plugs and COPS replaced 2 months ago). Sometimes it stalls out going down highway or as I turn in my driveway. It also seems like its slipping a little without the "hard jerking into gear". Occasionally the rpm meter will peg low and then return to normal.
The only code that I received was P1451. I changed the canister vent solenoid but the symptoms remain. I've checked voltage on the TPS (the variable voltage checked out but I didn't get the 5V ref. voltage). I've cleaned the MAF sensor. I've also changed the fuel filter. I've resistance checked the connector to the PCM and found several pins that are at ground. I'm not sure what to do next.
I have a 2000 f150, the overdrive light flashes on the swifter, the motor has no power and sputters unless I put it in second gear. It won't shift gears in drive.
View 1 Replies1999 windstar transmission. Daughter drives van,never had any problems and suddenly no drive or reverse.Put it in gear ,no rpm drop, same for reverse.I put it in park and it will not roll so I don't believe its a linkage issue. Its like it has no torque converter. Fluid is at the full mark,and has no burnt smell . Its been my experience that a trans. Usually starts slipping,or no up shift or makes some noises when its getting ready to puke. She stopped for a stop light, went to take off and it just rev-ed up like it was in neutral.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 F150 super cab with the 5.4 liter v8. I hit a large water puddle on my way to work Tuesday. I was going faster than I probably should have been. After hitting the puddle the truck lost power. It idles fine but as soon as I put it in gear it sputters and has no power. Also, the O/D drive light is now flashing. What might be going on with it.
View 4 Repliesjust curious if this is normal? My trucks been vibrating when I drive it and my mechanic says it's normal
View 10 RepliesI'm driving a 2000 F150 with the Triton V8 5.4L.
My check engine light came on the other night while heading home. I went to Auto Zone and had them scan it and it came back with the P0125 error code.
My guess is that the thermostat is faulty because my heater is blowing lukewarm air after about 20-30 minutes of normal driving and I would expect the air to be much warmer so I'm thinking that the engine is not getting up to normal operating temperature.
I understand that this can be bad for fuel economy and such, but my question is it safe to drive?
I had planned on hunting up in the hills tomorrow all day and just want to know if this could cause any damage?
Here's a picture of what my cluster looks like after running for about 30 minutes.
Cluster after 30 minutes of driving.
I would like to post this performance issue on my 2003 GX470_79Kmiles which happened on the freeway yesterday. The sequence:
1) During start and at idle/stationary, the rpm shoot to 1100rpm and stayed there for a while, i would think that it was normal since the engine was still cold.
2) Drove to the freeway, I noticed that speed is very slow to pick up. My normal driving experience was that at close/equal to 2000rpm, the speed usually at around 70-75mph. But there was a considerable reduction of speed at around 60mph at almost more than 2000rpm, plus a buzzing engine noise. I tried to really rev-up the engine but very sluggish to pick up the speed not even close to 70mph.
3) Drove the car to lexus shop this morning, top speed of 60 to 65mph and tried to rev it up to plus 2000rpm to pick up speed, but the engine noise is very abnormal.
I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata GLS 4 Cylinder with roughly 100k miles. The car runs great, shifts great, drives smooth. The only issue I have is starting the vehicle. When turning the key the car cranks sometimes longer than normal and sputters a bit before fully starting. I feel somewhat of a jolt like the engine is firing but its not what I call smooth. The other day it cranked longer than normal started for 1/2 a second then died and I had to turn the key again to start. I have already replaced the spark plugs and air filters. A while back we had the fuel filter/pump replaced but I'm not sure what else to do considering that the car runs fine otherwise. I read something about an EGR valve and maybe it's a vacuum hose?...
View 8 Replies1999 F150 Transmission Problem. The other day on the way home midway thru a 7 hour trip I stopped for gas, when I was getting back on the fwy, the engine/trans stumbled a bit, the Service Engine Soon light came on and stayed on solid not blinking, and I lost about 250 rpm from high gear at 70 mph like I intentionally turned off OD but I didn't. I made it home the remaining 200 miles and parked it. Tried it today, SES light came on when I started it so Ididn't drive it I just shut it off. The fluid level is good, nice and pink, and no burnt odor, the son-in-law just pulled a "Shift solenoid" code.... what do you think is going on? Is this common?
1999 F150 4x4 5.4 Supercab
Trans code: E (E4OD/4R100??)
This is a GPD/Ford Reman. Trans that was replaced 120,000 miles ago?
My passat doesn't have any leaks the coolant is at the max level, but when I drive the car for a couple of miles the temperature starts to go up the normal level. if I continue to drive the car it goes to the read level. If I stop the car an let it cool for 20 minutes I can drive the car, but I will start to overheat, but if i accelerate fast the temperature would start to come down, but then after a while it will overheat again. Some times it will drive at normal temperatures levels for a long time and then it will slowly start to overheat, if i step on the gas when i park and the temperature levels are in read the needle of the temperature will start to go to normal levels but if i drive the car then it will start to overheat the car has 80000 miles ...
View 4 RepliesTruck is a '99 2WD with drum rear brakes. 81K miles. I rebuilt the rear brakes due to a leaking wheel cylinder. The old shoes were not completely gone, but were worn evenly - everything looked normal.
Not a professional wrench, but I've been re-doing my own drum brakes since the '60's, so it is not rocket science to me. Still, as a precaution, I did them one side at a time so as to have reference point, and also snapped a few cellphone pics just to be safe.
Replaced both wheel cylinders, all hardware, and of course the shoes. Gravity bled the cylinders first, followed by the old tried-and-true, wife in the driver's seat, "down-and-hold, now up" routine. Adjusted shoes to just contact drums lightly, and buttoned it up.
The problem is that I'm getting a violent chattering from the rear axle with either light or normal braking. The chattering is worse as the brakes warm up - shakes the whole truck. At first I thought I had a bad rear ABS sensor, but then I did a couple of stops just using the parking brake, and got the same chattering.
Now I've pulled the drums off to re-check. There is nothing loose, nothing out of place, nothing leaking, but there was a heck of a lot of brake dust in there and the lead shoes on both sides were noticeably more worn than the trailing shoes - and I've driven maybe 100 miles since the rebuild.
You can't reverse these shoes, since the trailing shoe has a peg to hold the automatic adjuster, so that is not the issue. The drums were turned less than 1000 miles ago, so I did not have them re-done at this point.
I had my "assistant" partly depress the brake pedal while I had the drums off to confirm that the cylinders were expanding both shoes, and they are.