Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 4x4 - Brakes Grab A Bit Then Release When Going To Stop
Jan 26, 2012
On said truck, when you go to stop, the brakes grab a bit, then release , then the pedal goes to about 2 inches off the floor, then they grab and hold. Pumping does nothing. No abs light on the dash. Today we put the truck in 4high and while back up I had full brake pressure from the top. Also when you take off, either in the mornings or during the day, it has a slight vibration, kinda like a brake grabbing, then all is fine. The brake grabbing isn't there 100% of the time, I would say 95%. I haven't changed the brake pads, rotors, or anything yet. Just didn't want to throw money at it and still not fix the problem.
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I have an ABS light that likes to come on and off. My rear tires lock up when I come to a stop. Stopping sometimes takes longer distances. Other times I can barely touch the brakes and they'll grab real fast and then become soft immediately. Every time I hit the brakes is different I never know what to expect. There's usually a real long Rea of play in the pedal. As in I push it about half way down then the brakes with grab. Other times I barely put my foot on it and it jerks the truck but then loosens back up and comes to a (normal for the truck) stop. What could this be? 1997 4.6 4x4 f150
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My 98 Sunfire has a grab and release feel when applying brakes. Mechanic fixed this same problem March 2012. I was told it was warped rotors and brake pads. This worked great until four weeks ago when it started again. I find it hard to believe that rotors and pads would warp again after 7 months. Also the front brakes lock up real easy on wet surface such as a light rain. When they lock up I get a bad rattle sound under the dash. ABS light does not come on and never has. This happens all the time. Even after new pads and rotors were installed.
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I have a 1997 F250LD 4WD. I was driving and came to a stop light. I hit the brakes and the pedal was rock hard with what seemed to be very little travel. I pushed hard to get to a stop and the abs activated and I came to a slow stop. This has happened about 3 times over the last 1000 miles of driving. I see no ABS or Engine lights. Most of the time the brakes are normal. Pads are fine, fluid is fine. Brake booster seems to work fine, pedal is not mushy or hard to press other than the 3 or so times this has happened. Once this happens I can let off the brake and everything is normal. I have not found any vacuum leaks.
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On a 1998 F150 2 wheel drive 4.6 250k, the front brakes will drag under a specific set of circumstances; only in prolonged stop and go traffic with hot ambient temps. Rotors, calipers, rear shoes, drums, fluid, bearings, seals have all been replaced. This occurs only a couple of times a year, otherwise the brakes work perfectly. It starts out as a slight shimmy that worsens until you can smell the pads cooking and the wheels are hotter than hell. The truck will hardly move at times. The rears are normal. After the truck cools for hours, no symptoms.
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Front driver side brake squeals on a stop and release. This is the only side that produces this noise. Brake clearance is still very good and this noise has been off and on since i bought the car in December. Car has about 25k miles on it and will be replacing brakes at 30k.
Brake issue - YouTube .....
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I recently got new brake pads put on (front and back) and while they work ok there is no grab in the brakes like there used to be when they were new. They are quieter than the old ones. Do they have to break-in? Should I have gotten the rotors replaced too?
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I have a 1999 F350 single rear wheel Superduty truck that will not allow the right rear caliper to fully release. I replaced the caliper/mounting hardware/pads/rotor. The problem continued so I replaced the rubber hose to the caliper. Problem continues. I'm thinking possibly the center rubber brake line at the differential (where it splits and goes right/left) but at this point I am guessing. Maybe proportionate valve but I know nothing about them.
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I had both front brakes lock up on me the other day and burnt the shoes out so I replaced the pads and installed new calipers and flex lines. I also went ahead and replaced the rear shoes and both wheel cylinders since this truck had been sitting up for the past few years I figured why not. I flushed the system out but I can not get all the air out of the right rear wheel cylinder. My question is could the new wheel cylinder be bad? The new left cylinder blew out when I first started bleeding the right side. I could not get any pressure at all and I looked over and seen fluid pouring out the left side. I put the old one back on only due to time restraints. Should I replace the right side again as well? I have used up 4 1/2 bottles of 3e2 oz brake fluid and still have air in that side.
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I have removed the panel cover; cables are out - door is still stuck! Is there a way to release the latch? It is the driver side back door - 2001 Lariat.
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I have a 99 f150 4x4 that has done this twice, once last year and once this year during hot (90+) weather. I'll notice the vehicle seems like it doesn't want to go. Park overnight and it will work ok. Last time it happened the other day I stopped at wally world and both front wheels were real hot and I could smell the brakes. Came out hour later and when I pushed the brake pedal to put it in gear the pedal went to the floor.
Pumped up pedal and drove off but truck would barely move, drove 10 mph to a buddy of mines shop and it sat overnight and worked perfect the next day. He inspected everything and seems to think it might be the abs control unit. He noticed a small amount of fluid had come out of the unit and dripped on the ground. Also no abs light or brake light has ever come on
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Can get up to speed about 55-60 in my 2003 f250 6.0 4x4 truck and hit the brakes hard and the pedal gets hard almost like you cut the truck off and the truck doesn't stop well I can let off the pedal and hit it again hard and it works like it should. Also when it does this the power steering doesn't work. I was on an exit ramp and almost wrecked when I exited off the interstate I hit the brake pretty hard and couldn't steer I let off the brakes then hit them again and it worked fine and so did my steering. It would seem that the two are connected somehow. What's wrong?
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I started noticing that the brakes would pulsate, or grab momentarily when almost stopped. I figured that the rotors might be warped, and as I was planning on putting on new green stuff pads and rotors I was waiting for a convenient time to change them.
Now I have noticed some type of fluid, I'm guessing grease, on the side of one spoke of one of the wheels. I recently replaced the steel wheels with SE 16" wheels. I didn't see any leaks then but I guess I wasn't looking like I should have been.
I'm trying to decide what I should be looking for. CV boot leak? Front wheel bearing seal? Brake fluid?
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2004 Canyon, rear brakes squeal and grab, and occasionally stick. I know its the semi-metallic rear shoes, is there a cure for this condition?
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Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
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I have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
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I have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
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I have a 99 4.2L 5 speed reg. cab swb. It recently started idling high (which returns to normal at a stop after 3-5 seconds). While in neutral and in motion (coasting) the idle is around 1500-2k (idle=no throttle input from me). The first time it did this it took a while to start (7-10 seconds) and smoked like you wouldnt believe for about ten seconds. Smoke cleared, eyes returned to normal size, heart rate returned to "normal", but the high idle remains. Drives me nuts. No CEL, no codes, just a fat bald man scratching his head and a little nervousness.
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I have a 99 7.3 F250. It dies when I slow down for a turn or for a stop sign. At highway speed, it 'surges' sometimes, and makes he whole truck jump. Also, there is a small leak in the tube connected to the turbo. Has 250k miles ......
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I am having trouble with my 1998 F-150...XLT Triton? I bought the wrong motor for it and installed it, turn out it's a 1999 Windsor 5.4
Problem is that it runs rough and stalls when I stop or rolling to a stop it would die.... It seems ok while cold, but when driven for 20 minutes or more it does it.
I have used original 4.6 harness as well as original spark plug coils and only replaced throttle body, oil filter holder thingy mount, exhaust manifolds are from 4.6.
When the throtle body was on the 4.6 I didn't have when the motor ran. Only misfire due to intake manifold leaking into the 3rd cylinder spark plug.(I thought it was a bad head gasket and changed in....installed the timing chain wrong and messed up the whole motor)
Also I broke a rear brake line and now it only has front brakes and smells like fried transmission oil.. This is my first truck and first truck accidental engine swap. Also the 5.4 Intake manifold is missing 2 coolant sensors and it's giving me the P0118 ECT Sensor Circuit High input...
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My truck doesn't want to go grab parking!! The shifter has a lot of play, Every time I go to park my truck I have to forcefully hold the shifter up into parking so it can grab. I had times when the shifter its in parking and it will still move, like I've gotten out and pushed it and it moves.
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