The other day I was driving down the freeway... My F150's heart started knocking... I am thinking of rebuilding it or I was thinking if I can find a good priced lightning 5.4 going with a swap.. If I did go with a swap what all would I need from the donor truck? I am guessing a rebuild would cost me around $2000.. Since I don't have the know how or the place to tempt it on my own.
View 3 RepliesI got a 99 f150 with a 4R70W and 311,000 miles on it and last year the od light started flashing while I was going down the interstate so I checked the fluid when i got home and it was beyond burnt so i changed fluid and filter. So a month or so ago it started doing this thing where on take off it will rev up like its in neutral for a couple seconds then reengage and drive normal till i stop and start to take off again. It don't do it every time and it drives/pulls just fine other than that.
View 4 RepliesI have an 1999 f150 4.2l only 82,000 original miles.i have had truck since new .i just replaced the spark plugs for the first time.i used autolite plat. I also changed fuel filter the truck started to run like crap now shaking and sorta like missing.i pulled the plugs again rechecked the gp reinstalled them installed new wires still runs like crap.went out bought new motorcraft plat. plugs gapped at .054 still runs like crap..so i checked the gap on original plus that have been i the truck since new the gap on them are .074-.075. should i try and gapp the new ones to this the truck ran like a dream with the original plugs at this gap????
View 14 Replies1999 Ford F-150 V8 5.4L... The other day I was attempting to fix my 4wd. I discovered that the vacuum tube by the 4wd solenoid had become disconnected. I reconnected it and in an effort to see if my fix was successful, I drove my truck up one of the canyons nearby. I got to an area full of loose rock and popped my truck into 4wd. As soon as I began to drive, the truck started idling very rough and died. I attempted to restart it for the next few minutes unsuccessfully. I got it started once and it continued to idle rough for a few seconds and died. I have not been able to start it since. It turns over but will not crank. It is not throwing any error codes. What I have checked so far:
Spark plugs are working.
When turning the ignition into the ON position, I am able to hear the fuel pump working.
I have not seen any cracks in the vacuum hose.
All the fuses are still okay.
What the culprit may be?
I recently changed the heater core on my 99 F-150 which meant i had to remove the dash. I got everything back together turned the key to start it and nothing it wouldn't start it wont even turn over. All the electronics come on like normal it just wont start. I have chased every wire every connection into madness. It has an aftermarket remote start someone said that would have bypassed the PATS but i dont know about that the theft light just started blinking.
View 1 RepliesI have an 01 SuperCrew with the 4.6L and it's idling really rough. Last summer, the idle started to flux pretty bad with the a/c on and eventually, it started to spray coolant mix through the vents and I lost heating about the same time. So, local dealership changed out the heater core and that is working again.
Well...I still have the idle flux, it fluxes from between 400-1000rpm at idle with the a/c on, it's a constant flux....up/down/up/down/up/down. A/C off and the idle is rock-solid steady. Dealership has changed 4 ignition coils over the last couple of years along with an EGR or PCV (whatever it's called) valve as well, none of which was for the idle problem, but somewhat associated. Where I should be looking?
My 2000 F150 started knocking, it does this after I get up to speed and let off the gas a bit, it will know as I push on the gas again but if I push heavy on the gas it dose not knock, What could if be? By the way it is a hard knock not a pinging sound.
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 F-150 knocks pretty bad on my early morning cold start ups. It only happens if it had set for a while. Its not a knock coming from the bottom end it sounds like its coming from the top end, cams cam followers... etc. I was wondering if I should be concerned. I am running 5-20 mobil 1 with a motorcraft filter. My truck always seems to use a half a quart to a quart between oil changes too. The truck only has 60,000 pretty mild miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 4x4 5.4l with 105k miles. I started it up today to go to lunch and it made a knocking sound on start up that lasted maybe 20 seconds. So i shut it off and checked oil. All ok. Started it up again and it knocked but not as long as it did previously. I started to drive and higher in the rpm range before the trans shifts it makes the same knocking sound. Left off the pedal it goes away then rev it again it doesn't make the knock till around 2000rpm mark it I remember correctly. It makes the noise in all gears, parked or driving. It runs great, no power loss or misfire. Could it be a spark plug on the verge of blowing out or is it time for a new motor? I am going to look at it more tonight when I get off work.
View 2 RepliesNew to owing a ford pickup. I bought a 2002 Ford F-150 lariat 4x4 as a project truck. I've always wanted a truck to mess around with, but once I got the truck home I noticed it had a knocking sound. It didn't sound like it came from the top of the engine so I checked the muffler first and found it had a 3" slit in it. I replaced it but the sound remains. I heard it could be lifters? Is that something I should mess with or not?
View 8 RepliesI am going to start from the beginning because oftens times we don't provide all of the information that may be pertinent to the correct diagnosis or repair. It'll be kind of lengthy! It all started about 3 days ago when my wife told me that my truck was "shaking." I said, "ok, just drive the car til' I can look at it" The next morning, the I was able to look at the truck. I had a cylinder 8 misfire detected. I drove it for about 1 hour that day to and from work. I did this so I could see what what the "shaking" was. It was actually what I describe as a "shudder."
Anyways, I done a fuel pressure check and all was well. I took of the coil, tested it, it was fine. So, I took out the plug to inspect it. It was wet! Not drinched, just mildly damp. I dried it off, cleaned it off with carb cleaner and it fired right up no hesitation no nothing. No CEL light, no shaking, no shuddering. It ran perfectly normal. I let it warm up to speed and took it for a test drive around about 6 city blocks. All was well. So I took it on the highway for about a 2 mile stretch. I was givin' her some juice pretty hard to see if it would misfire. Upon acceleration I heard a screech. Now this is where it get's interesting.
The screech that I hear, I just related it to the belt because it's done it ALL the time. When I first bought the truck it squalled like a whipped puppy cause of a cheap belt. The good ol' bar of soap trick fixed that! But, ever since then, it upon shifting, or under acceleration it would screech then stop. So anyways, on the highway run, it screeched while I was accelerating. It did this from about 60mph-80mph. I then, turned around and came back home. By the time I got to the stoplight to turn off towards my house my oil light was on and the engine was knocking. Not a tap, a knock.
I slowly coasted home not going over 20mph and pulling it out of drive as much as I could. I get home, and I check the oil and there is nothing on the dipstick! WTF!? I always run Mobil1 Full synthetic and put it 6qts. It doesn't smoke, doesn't leak or nothing! So I freaked out and went and bought 2 qts of Valvoline Hi-Mi and poured it in. It brought up the hash marks and quieted the deep knock. Later that night after work, I done a full oil change and flush and put back in my Mobil1 Fully synthetic 5w20. It now knocks at startup, and smooths out to a tic. Then at idle, it sounds like a light knock. It appears that it goes away upon acceleration.
The knocking started very suddenly 2 days ago - but not after any unusual events, other work etc. Truck has 145 K, and otherwise starts & runs perfectly. Doesn't use oil.
I heard it from in the cab, windows closed. At first, thought it may be a rod bearing - but if so, not terribly loud. Didn't drive it any more after getting home. But starting it in the drive, the knocking was audible.
Then I discovered it * completely disappeared * several times, after shutting off engine, then restart a few seconds later. When that happens, absolutely no knocking at idle or reeving it up a bit. But it may return on the next 1 or 2 restarts, then disappear again.
Since the knocking * completely stopped * on some restarts, does that rule out a bad rod or main bearing?
I haven't seen oil gauge pressure fluctuation, whether it's knocking or not. The gauge is where it's always been - well above 1/2 way. But, the gauge also doesn't move when I rev it to around 2000 RPM (? may be normal not to move, after engine's already running?). When the knocking is happening, increasing RPMs also increases the knocking frequency.
Can't hear the knocking from top side of engine w/ hood open - even using rubber hose to my ear & moving it around. But (when) it knocks, can easily hear it inside the cab or under the truck.
From underneath, knocking is more in the center of truck, near the back of block / oil pan or tranny bell housing. I can't isolate the noise as more on one side of the block than the other.
Could the oil pump itself be making a knocking noise? The knocking is "similar to" a rod knocking, but doesn't seem quite as "hammer on metal" metallic.
There are no DTCs showing on my scanner. Only odd thing was, for "O2 Monitor Test," it showed "vehicle did not return data for any O2 monitor test." Though under the scanner "I/M Monitors," it shows O2 Sens Mon. "OK," and O2 Sens Htr "OK."
I have a 97 7.3 ... I've had it about 2 months now and now it wont start! It will start and idle for 2 seconds then start knocking and die! I had a buzz test ran on it and all is good. I also checked my Icp and checked my uvch harness with my multimeter. Before this it would run ok but seemed like it had a miss and a lack of power. On start up if i didn't have it plugged in it would smoke white smoke horribly. I am thinking maybe my IDM. I need my truck for work .... I had it hooked up to a scanner and it said faulty IDM.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 F-150 4.6 4X4. I had a knocking sound that sounded like a rod knocking but was coming from the bell housing. After some research, I found that it could be a cracked flex plate or bad torque converter. I bought and installed a new torque converter with no change. The flex plate didn't appear to have any damage but went ahead and replaced it with the same results. I actually started the engine by jumping the starter (with no transmission) and the sound was coming from the flex plate/dust cover. My question is do I need the dust cover? Or is it a bearing or something else inside the engine causing the flex plate to hit the dust cover?
View 3 Replies2001 F-150 4.2L automatic, 189k mikes. Gas pedal would do weird knocking/vibrating. It would do it at idle & under acceleration. Gas pedal would knock & sometimes slightly move or kick back at you. Felt like someone was lightly hitting it with a small hammer. Well there is not much to the gas pedal assembly; pedal, throttle cable & mounting bolts/plate. Looking under hood, a bracket from drivers side of motor was pushing back against firewall, which was pushing into gas pedal mounting bolts. I grabbed the bracket & it came off motor. Nothing else attached to bracket. Looks like it rusted off and was pinned between motor & firewall. Well, this fixed the gas pedal problems. But now i wonder what the bracket is & whats it suppose to hold??
View 3 RepliesI have had a noise in the front of the engine of my 2002 f150 4.6 for about 2 weeks. On my way home my oil light came on made a knocking noise and shut off. The engine would not start back starter would engage but not turn motor it was seized. i called a tow truck and had it towed home. The next day just out of curiosity I tried to start it. It fired up ran and built oil pressure. If the oil pump froze will that make it . Can the oil pump make the engine act seized up?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 4x4 4.6L Auto trans. 96,000 miles... I purchased it in Jan with 93,000. About a month ago it started making and occasional knocking noise coming from the engine, this noise was heard at idle in park and in drive. when I revved the motor it would go away but as the idle settle back down you could hear it again. the noise would go away as I was driving and come back with no rhyme or reason, I put a stethoscope on the engine and it seemed loudest under the oil pan. The oil gauge is up between 5/8 to 3/4. Fast forward to now, When I start it I hear a scraping almost grinding noise that resonated thru the cab it has the same intermittent characteristics. I think I am going to remove the serp belt, remove the trans inspection cover next and see what happens. Oh I did put a scan too on it, no codes but did notice 1 long term 02 sensor trim was staying around -.618 if I remember.
View 11 RepliesI have a 98 F-150 which has a loud knocking at the passenger side valve cover. I am not a mechanic but thought it was a rocker arm knocking. I dropped some oil from the oil pan and did not see and metal shavings. I added some mystery oil but the knocking continued.Loaded the truck on a trailer and hauled to a mechanic to check for the problem. He said the oil ports are clogged and oil can not get to the cam shaft and the cam shaft bearings are probably causing the knocking. He said there is no way to fix this problem and I will have to replace the motor.
I called another mechanic and described what the other mechanic described. The 2nd mechanic said it would require a complete tear down of the motor and would be cheaper to replace the motor. I recently bought this truck just to use for hunting and around town since it already has 198k miles on it.
Is there any way to clean the gunk from the oil ports? The truck will still run but just has the loud knocking so I don't let it run for more that a couple minutes. I have been reading many opinions for sludge blocking the oil passages and am considering removing the valve cover gasket and filling with diesel and let sit for 24 hours then repeat then put in fresh oil and filter. Maybe this will clean the blocked passages.
The last couple days my truck (1997 f150 4.6l) has been having starting issues. At first it would just turn over and not start then the battery would die. So i bought a new battery and yesterday now its starts sometimes but when trying to start it while its ttuning over it stops then starts turning and starts up. Then i drive wherever I am going when i get back in to start there's nothing.
Its not turning over at all but when i turn the key there is a loud single knocking noise coming from behind the dash near the passenger floor vent. Actually there ate two noise from the same area, one when i initially trun the key and another when i release the key. But after just sitting there doing this it will finally turn over and start. What this is, there are no codes being thrown besides my dreaded P0401 which i cant seem to get rid of either. Ive changed every part that has to do with the egr system and cleaned the throttle body replaced vacuum lines and still the code.
I bought this truck an it ran good then one day it started knocking really bad so i replaced the crank shaft an bearings. Put everything back together started the truck an it ran like crap an i just happened to check the oil an it is milky. All the water in y radiator is now in the motor oil an truck has no power...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 4.6l triton v8.... I started over heating yesterday. Got home, let it cool down and found Oil in Coolant. No coolant in oil or transmission fluid. What could be wrong?
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