Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1999 4X4 - Front Axle Tube
Dec 11, 2012
I need a front axle tube for a 1999 F-150 4x4, I have tried local parts houses and dealership with no luck. Any information where I might locate one.
View 6 RepliesI need a front axle tube for a 1999 F-150 4x4, I have tried local parts houses and dealership with no luck. Any information where I might locate one.
View 6 RepliesOk, I have a 98 F150 XLT, standard cab, 8 ft. bed, 2WD with limited slip - if any of that makes a difference.
The rear axle vent tube is literally blowing oil out the top, where it's loosely connected to the bed. It does this every few weeks. I pulled the hose and ran a rifle cleaning rod down it to make sure it wasn't plugged ... it wasn't.
It seems like it's building up pressure somewhere, then blowing all at once, but why?
I have a 2000 F-150 XLT Supercab 5.4 4x4 with the dash shifter. My front axle won't engage when shifting into 4x4. A few months ago the vacuum solenoids were replaced and they sound as though they are functioning properly. The diaphragm isn't moving the lever thing and i can't get the lever to move with a screwdriver either.
I know it has worked the past two weekends. Two weeks ago it was in a significant amount of mud and possibly submerged at times. I power washed everything pretty good immediately afterwords though and it has worked in between then and now. What could be going on?
2001 F150 SCAB with 74,000 miles. There seems to be a whistling noise coming from the front axle. It is definately a rolling noise. I can shift into neutral and put it in 4H and still have the noise. Brakes are good, tires are fair... I just rotated my tires (criss-crossed front to back) also sprayed all of my boots with silicone spray. Still has a whistling metal to metal bearing sound. When I have the front jacked up and spin the wheels, there seems to be a decent drag turning by hand. I don't remember having much of a drag before.
View 6 RepliesI thought that my front wheel bearing was bad but I removed it and it seems fine. The issue that I'm having is a continous vibration (noise) in the left front that gets worse with speed.The half shaft makes a noise at the point where the half shaft meets the steering knuckle and when I turn the shaft at the outer splines, the grinding noise is present. My question is, is the entire half shaft supposed to turn, even the outer diameter of it that would enter the steering knuckle, or is the shaft supposed to turn inside of that outer diameter? I hope I was able to explain my problem clearly/
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
I am on the fence with getting rid of my 7.3. Here's why. Whenever I crawl underneath the truck or look under the hood I see all these different oil/fluid leaks. She has less than 200k miles and I use her to tow my boat to go fishing.
Right now I am trying to weigh if the truck is worth keeping or selling and then getting a new/newer truck.
Here are some leaks. One is obviously oil and coming from what I guess is the front main seal. I really don't know. The other leaks going onto the U-joint look like oil leaking down the axle from the front differential.
I'm growing a business and not sure if I have time to play mechanic. However, everyone I talk to always exclaims, "You got a 7.3?! You luck SOB!" and I am kinda getting the feeling letting her go would be a mistake. FWIW, she is paid off.
Other than a slight wobble in the steering wheel at speed, she runs like a hoss.
Can I re-use this shaft or is that ring around it no good. The ring is around where the bearing sits. It is a circumferential hump all the way around.
View 14 RepliesI have a 03 super duty 3/4 with 45000 miles. I have squeaking sound coming from the front end. My local ford dealer says ford has been replacing those front axle seals but the noise comes back.They said the fix is to keep a dab of grease on them of which I.m doing.That does take care of it for awhile but the squeaking does come back until I put a dab of grease back on them.
View 14 RepliesSo I've driven my 97 F-150 (4.6 L) around for several months now listening to that wretched left side exhaust leak caused by the nut on the EGR tube rotting off the nipple on the manifold. I tried plugging it, taping it with that exhaust "bandage" tape, etc. Nothing obviously ever lasted. And I sure didn't want to try replacing the manifold and then dealing with the potential broken studs, etc.
Then I finally got around to getting the gas tank straps replaced with that recall. So I took it to the dealership this past Friday. I mentioned the EGR tube leak kind of in passing. The service manager said they could fix it for about 80 bucks. He said they had successfully removed quite a few of those nipples without replacing the manifold. I kind of thought to myself "yeah right" (considering I live in the rust belt with all the road salt, etc.) and told them to go for it.
Not surprisingly, they called me back later in the day and said they couldn't get it out, and he wants to replace the manifold, etc. I just told him to plug it instead. When I picked up the truck, I learned the mechanic decided to WELD it instead of plugging it. I was pretty surprised that he tackled it, and he actually did a pretty decent job in sealing it except for one small pin hole on the back side between the welds. I mixed up some JB Weld and filled the pinhole. The welds may fail or the JB Weld blows out tomorrow, but, in the meantime, I don't have to listen to that wretched exhaust leak constantly. At least I'll have a few days peace if not longer
Rusted dipstick tube I thought was going to be an easy enough fix. Broke off clean at the block. Tried for hours, easy out, prying, vise grips anything I could think of. Well I tried to pry the side of the tube over to make room for my needle nose vise grips, and boom. Down in the oil pan it goes.
Do you think theres any way possible I can fish it out through the drain plug. I really dont want to pull the darn motor.
1998 F150 4.6L. Pretty sure EGR is bad. Clogged ports cleaned, DPFE changed, etc. Tried the suck test on EGR, no change. Still getting 401 code. Ports were really bad, so I figure EGR is clogged/bad also.
Here's the problem....I can't get the nut loose that holds the tube from the manifold onto the EGR. It is on the back side of the EGR facing the firewall. Not a whole lot of room to work with, but I can get a 1-1/16 wrench on it. I have tried soaking it in PB, heating the EGR body with propane, beating on it with everything I can find, and it still won't budge.
If I unbolt the EGR from the TB, I have no leverage on it.
I got a 97 F250 4x4 w/ 4.6 lt. motor & auto trans. The engine is leaking oil. It looks to be coming from a set of hoses that are on the adaptor that is between the oil filter & the engine block. Also what are the oil lines called? It is leaking motor oil not transmission oil.
Also just pulled my oil dip stick & the whole thing (dip stick & the tube) came off the truck. Seems the tube has rotted away at the oil pan. Is this also a job I can do?
I have a minor leak at the base of the trans dipstick tube. I assume that the tube is press in ? has an o-ring ? I put some silicone around the area and that worked about a week, the fluid is probably eating through that type sealant. The trans is a 4r70. Seems to me that the actual tube should be ok and having never dealt with replacing one I want a little advice before yanking it out.
View 11 RepliesI have 1999 F350 7.3 Crew Cab 4WD. I took it on a 4 hours trip towing a trailer to haul a small tractor on it. after 3 hours of driving, I started hearing grinding and metal chewing sound coming from the front axle or close the wheel hubs. It was awful, terrible, ... you name it!!! I had to continue or I will lose the tractor I paid for already. The sound was coming for 1-2 seconds each 500 feet or so. It never stopped or changed. I pulled over to see what's going on and found the following:
1. Left shock is leaking badly
2. Right locking hub is gone (not sure if the truck had one before). I bought this truck last year, but I never had to use 4x4 and I know the 4x4 motor by the transfer case is missing and the nipple on the transfer case is set to the 2wd position so the front drive-shaft does not turn.
I took the front shock off and continued to drive without it, the noise did not go away.
I pulled over again and this time I noticed that the dust cover on each end of the front axle is missing too. I have never worked on these axles before, but I jacked one side, and sure enough, gear oil was leaking from the other side. I took the plug off the front differential and stuck my finger in it. I felt a creamy brown-greenish stuff in the differential. The consistency is like mayonnaise or thin peanut butter. I put the plug back on and went to pick up the tractor because I did not want to miss it fooling around with the truck on the highway.
The truck made it there and back (almost 5 hours total after the break down). The sound never stopped every 500 to 1000 ft.
After getting home safely, I took the other locking hub off, and took it for a test drive. I did not hear the noise, but now my right brakes are locking.
I took of the wheels and saw that the retaining snap ring (C clip) for the front axle on the right side came off by hand. I took the washers behind it off. Took the calipers and brackets off. I have never done front axle rebuild. I am not sure what has been damaged and what's still good.
Right of the bat, I know, at least, I need 2 shocks, one brake caliper and pads.
My questions are:
1. Is it possible to take the front axles off on both sides and make it 2wd for now until I have the money to rebuild the axle?
2. Could I use the same hubs? or they are most likely damaged and how to tell?
3. How to tell if the differential is damaged/needs rebuilding?
4. How to tell if the axles/spindles are damaged?
5. Is there a step by step tutorial to rebuild the axle with all seals, bearings, ...etc? How hard is the job for a hobbyist? I do most of my repairs myself, and I was lucky at 36 years old, I never had to rebuild a differential.
6. What else I might have damaged in the process of driving it that long with the noise? How do I tell if I did?
I own a 2004 F-150 FX4 5.7L V8, I notice this morning that I had gear oil coming out of my rear Axle Vent Tube. What would cause this issue? I'm kinda at a loss as to what would cause it.
View 3 RepliesFord F-150, 1999, 4WD. My dipstick tube has rusted off right at the point where it attaches to the engine block. I purchased a new one but I'm not sure if that's a job I can do on my own. What installing a new tube will entail?
View 5 RepliesLooking for a diagram that breaks down the front axle components of a 1997 mercury mountaineer? I believe my drivers side ball joint is shot because it makes a thumping sound whenever it goes down the road and the wheel has a lot of play in it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford F150, 4x4, and I recently installed torsion bar leveling keys, i did not notice before i put the keys on, but while parked level, wheels straight, my wheels stand awkward, the bottom sticks out while the top is kinda sucked in, when i took a closer look, my inner axle shaft boot on my passenger side is busted and slinging all the grease out, what is the solution?
View 8 RepliesI am doing some maintenance and trying to replace my EBP tube and sensor. I luckily have the dual alternator package, so getting the tube in and out has been a pain to say the least. I can't for the life of me get the tube back into place. As always, a 20 minute job is taking me 2 days.
View 14 Replies