Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - When Parked On An Incline Surface With Front Uphill Won't Start?
Aug 18, 2012
I have a 1998 F-150 V8 4.6L. Currently has about 83000 miles. I have had this problem twice now. When I park on an incline with the front up hill the engine will not start. It will crank like it is trying to start, but it sounds like its not getting enough fuel. Both times my tank has been nearly full or 3/4 full. Just put on a new fuel filter and the old one was still clean. ( I could blow through it with ease). I think it is the fuel pump.
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Last time this truck did this, I replaced the #27 fuse and it started right up. This time, no such luck. It is EXTREMELY frustrating to pay this much money for a truck that you cant start. Btw, it has 38 miles until its on empty.. Any way that could be the cause if i am parked in my drive way which has a slight incline?
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I have a small problem that has been going on for about the last 6 months. It only appears once in a while, and only when I have parked facing uphill for longer than a day or so. Upon first start (cold) after sitting pointed uphill for a day or two, it starts real rough and sputters a bit. Then when I check codes, I always have a pending P0316 (misfire within the first 1000 revolutions) along with a P0306 or P0301. No dash lights or anything.
Since those two cylinders are at the front of the motor, could it be that the fuel is leaking back down the rail and leaving those two injectors dry? It isn't always both cylinders, sometimes one or the other. If this is the sign of something bigger on the horizon, I would like to have a heads up.
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If I even fart in my truck, there is a jingling underneath. I know my ball bearings need to be replaced. But, what the noise is. It sound like loose change in my pocket. I can't describe it any better.
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I have a 1998 F150 with a 4.6 engine and is a 4x4 now the other day when I was backing out of the garage I heard a clunk noise and it seems like it is coming from the right front, so I tried it going forward it made the same noise but not as bad. There is no road noise and all the u joints are good and tight, the noise was when I gave it a little gas. My question is the front cv u joint would this make the noise? And what about the hub? What is the proper why to check the CV joint and the hub? The noise was when I was in 2 wheel drive.
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My t case will engage in 4 high and 4 low. so i know the switch and motor works because it go all the way to 4 low and i can feel the lower gears. BUT the front drive shaft is not turning because i know that the front diff is engaging just fine cus one I just fixed it and because when i put it in 4x4 the front drive shaft is locked in but when i take it out the drive shaft moves freely when i turn it by hand. But when I test it in gravel or mud the front wheels still ain't turning. So its gota be the t case. But what are the part that may be broken in the t case and if I can fix it wile its still on the truck.
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1998 F250 ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs. The front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
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I just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
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Fuel mileage is terrible also but the truck really has no power. Running down the highway it kicks down just to pull a small incline. Check engine light is not on and there is no hessitation. The truck has 105k on it and i have put only 5k of those miles on. I did pull a couple plugs and they are autolites so plugs must have been changed at some point. Does this sound like a coil problem?
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My '98 was running fine. It had 272 miles on the tank of gas (from full) when I parked it nose down in the driveway last night. Went to start it at 5:40 in the morning and it would crank fine but wouldn't start. I'm thinking all kinds of things could be wrong. Finally checked for fuel at the fuel rail and nothing. Woke up the wife to assist. Had her turn the key to "ON" and the fuel pump sounded dry.
Put in a couple gallons of gas I had for the lawn mower and it fired up. Gas gauge was about 1/4 on level ground before adding gas. I talked to everyone at work who has an Explorer and they all have had the same thing happen. I'm hoping the fuel pump didn't get damaged from running dry.
I've never had this happen with my Ranger. It happened once on my Aerostar, but it was extremely low on gas and I let it sit idling in the driveway for a long time to bleed the cooling system. Normally, I get gas at 1/4 tank.
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I can cold start my 98 f150 with the 4.2 and it runs fine. After you drive it for a while and turn it off and try to restart it, it starts then dies, it will do this until you rev up the motor to keep it running. I have to drop in gear and get going down the road and then it smooths out and runs fine. I had a mech check the fuel pressure at the rail and it was 19 psi. The book says it is suppose to be 35psi. He said my fuel pump was bad. I installed a fuel pump and it is still doing the same thing yet. What to check now?
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I have a 98 F150, 4.6L with approx. 245,000 miles on it. recently it started, then studdered a little bit and died. I managed to get it re-started, it then shuddered a little more although I was able to drive it back up the drive way and park it. Now, it will crank however it does not even attempt to fire. The sound that it makes when trying to start seems odd to me. Like the engine is just turning against a constant resistance instead of the normal starting sound. I tried shooting a little starter fluid into the throttle body and nothing changed. I pressed on the shrader valve and got a spew of fuel to come out so it seems that it might not be a fuel problem though it sure sounds like one. Just curious, what are the symptoms of a truck with no compression?
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Vehicle is stranded on the side of the road (safely) and here's what happened. Driving (normal) 1/4 mile away from the house, motor shut down. Pulled off, tried restart. Motor turns over normally and all gauges work (temp/oil/volt). The only weird thing is that the O/D light on the end of the shift selector stays on even after pushing it on and off. I plugged in my OBDII reader and it will not link with the system. Yes... the ignition is on Is this indicative of a fuel, computer, electrical issue? or all the above. Worst case scenario is i have it towed to the shop tomorrow and they diag it. I don't have the proper tools to diag this.
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I only see it on start up, after it starts I don't see blue smoke or smell it could this be valve guide seals? If so are they hard to change? This truck has 168000 miles on it and has a 4.6 engine.
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1998 F150 with 4.6L Windsor SOHC. I just completely rebuilt the engine including pistons, rings, timing chains (timing is good; compression @ 180 psi), 2 new coils, wires, plugs etc. and there's no fire at the plugs when I crank it. It turns over good but doesn't start. The fuel pump comes on and there's fuel up to the injectors. Before I disassembled the engine, it still ran good except for one piston. The 2 new coils, wires, plugs were replace before I rebuilt it. I was very thorough when re-installing the electrical etc... and triple checked it all after the engine not firing. Fuses are good. I know it's hard to trouble shoot without seeing the truck? The battery has been disconnected for months as I started a long time ago. Computer maybe?
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I have a 98 ranger, 4x4, 5spd 3.0 with 88k miles.
While I am driving it, everything is great, but when i start to accelerate, or torque the engine (going up a hill), I get this clicking/vibration in my gas pedal. its extremely noticeable, by feeling and ear.
Its most common around 2k to 2.5k RPM. There is a lot of play in the throttle cable, about an 1" or so give untill you feel pressure. What I need to replace or tighten?
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I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
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I have a 1998 F150, had this truck for just shy of 200,000 miles, never a major problem and now she's killing me. Turn the key, no crank,no start, the same time this started the radio also quit working. I can start her with a screw driver at the soleniod (new by the way) runs perfect after that. By the way it's a 2 wheel drive with the 4.6 v-8
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I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
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I have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
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Accent 2008 (155,000 km) .... Walter pump, all belt, timing belt, pulley where changed @ 120,00Km when i bought the car.
**No code showing in dtc no check engine light**
I've been losing power uphill, RPM at 4,000 and and losing speed. I heard a loud sound coming from the front starting at 2,500 rpm and up (like if the exhaust air is struggling to get out), not sure who to explain that accelerating noise
On Flat surface it's slower accelerating up to 3,000 rpm with that loud sound. It's like the more i pressed on the gas pedal, the less acceleration i get.
**Running idle up to 4,000 rpm in park, no loud noise, engine running normal sound with no lack in acceleration in RPM**
2 weeks before I had 2 ignitions coil going bad at same time, i run it about 2 miles before changing them, and the exhaust/catalytic converter came hot and melted the plastic dust cover under the car near the catalytic converter.. Did I premature burn or plug that catalytic converter?
Would it be catalytic converter? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter..
I thought of buying a catalytic converter cleaner and put in fuel tank and up the intake..
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