Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Weird Relay Click When In Reverse And On Brakes
Jul 6, 2016
This is on my 98 F-150 4x4 with the 5.4 and 4R100. What happens is when I put the truck in reverse and get on and off the brakes, every time I do so a relay clicks. It sounds like it's right up behind the instrument cluster.
I stuck my hand back there and can feel the click resonating in the metal brackets, but I can't figure out where it's coming from. It's never done this before and I'm worried something may fail at an inopportune time.
What this may be? It's a really loud click too and only does this in reverse. Park, drive, neutral etc. are all fine. The odd thing is when I hear the click everything still works as normal, parking lights, brake lights, reverse lights.
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My 98 f150 a problem it won't shift into 4wd the lights glow and i can hear it click but nothing. When in 4L the engine gears down but nothing. I took the shift motor down and turned the motor turns but nothing i took pliers and manually turned the shaft the front wheels still don't turn.
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4, the truck has not been driven in a few years and it’s been outside in my driveway up on jack stands. I just rebuilt the front end and did a four wheel break job, after getting the truck off the jack stands, I can't get it to move in drive or reverse. I also noticed that when you go from reverse to park the gears grind and I can't even get it to shift into 4H. I checked the tranny fluid and it is fine, also the tranny was just rebuilt a few years before I stopped driving the truck.
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4 4.6 triton V8 regular cab, I would like to ditch the rear drum brakes in favor of disk brakes. is this an easy bolt on project? I do know that 2003 f150's had rear disk brakes and was wondering if i bought those parts if the procedure would be fairly easy. I know i would have to take a check valve out of the master cylinder to gain pressure to the rear.
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I just bought a 1998 F150 2wd with the 4.6L(no ABS) to be my beater home depot truck. The brakes barely functioned, so I replaced the front bearings, rotors, pads, and calipers. I bled the brakes exactly like I normally do. When I tried to move the truck, the rear tires spun with the front completely locked(also discovered the right rear line had a hole and crimped the line for a moment, but it was the tire that was spinning).
I searched and many people said that bad rubber lines cause the calipers to lockup. I loosened the bleed valves and the fronts were still locked(jacked up the truck and used a breaker bar on lug nuts trying to rotate each tire). I am guessing that it has to be master cylinder or the steel lines. Any tests I could do to narrow down this issue further?
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Alright so I have a 99 7.3l. One day I went to start my truck and when I turn the key to the on position all is normal and then when I turn it all the way to crank it nothing happens. I hear a relay click ann thed that's it. Me and a buddy of mine spent quite some time on going through the entire truck. The starter was replaced, the neutral safety switch was replaced and the ignition switch was replaced yet the problem is still there. We then discovered that fuse #20 under the dash keeps blowing with every turn of the key. The manual states that this fuse is a starter motor relay coil PCM ( gasoline only). So if it's gas only why is it even in there. Let me just say that I can jump the fender mounted relay and the truck starts.
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My 2014 pip has an odd noise I first notice when pull out of the garage. When I am traveling in reverse and hit the brakes there is a loud click as if something in the suspension is shifting. Then when in drive I have the same click the first time I hit the brakes.
I also hear a metallic rattle on the highway over expansion joints. The dealer says that noise is nothing but coupled with the click under breaking I am sure some item is loose.
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I have a 2009 Corolla S and the symptoms are as follows:
1. Normal forward driving, brakes work fine (and as expected without sound).
2. In reverse, when I apply the brakes I hear a click (clunk) sound from the front brakes. It only makes the sound when I'm going from moving to stopping (IE: I cant just keep pressing the brake once stopped to generate the noise). But if I let myself continue in reverse and press pedal again, it will make the same sound (very repeatable). I don't need to go forward to replicate the sound, I can just stay in reverse, stop (CLICK), continue in reverse, stop (CLICK), etc.
3. The it's noticable in the pedal. I can feel it on the brake with my foot when the noise happens.
4. It happens when I depress the brake pedal about 1/4 down, a gentle stop. And usually happens every time when I back out of my driveway or parking spot.
5. GF's sister's 2009 corolla CE does NOT make this noise in reverse.
6. 20,000 miles, Orig tires/brakes, didn't happen 4ish months ago.
I plan on putting winter tires on next month. Perhaps I'll take a look at the pads to make sure they aren't moving around, but wouldn't I also hear the noise in forward motion? Or when I switch from forward to reverse?
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So for the past few months I have been hearing a knock sound when taking off from a stop. It does it every time, and its loud enough to hear distinctly. It sounds like it is coming from underneath the cab, maybe the trans or rear engine area. I thought maybe a mount. It only does it when taking off from a stop it does not do it while driving. Where to start. I hope it isn't serious, at this point it is more annoying than anything else.
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I have just finished changing head gasket. I started up the engine works fine. But I hear a little clik sound form the converter. I put it in gear, but it can't move either forward or backward. It ran 2-3 liters of oil out of the converter when I took the engine out. I have filled new oil in the gearbox but not in the converter, dosnt it came form the gearbox into the converter?Is there air in the converter or what's wrong?
it is a F150 4x4 4.6 1997 automatic.
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I have a 97 F-150 that the A/C went from blowing cold to hot instantly. I have done the following;
1. Checked fuse. Was good.
2. Checked Low Pressure connection.
On this, I jumpered the connector and could not get the clutch to engage. I also checked to make sure I had 12v from that point, which I did.
3. Checked the power to the clutch assembly. Got nothing. I also put 12v directly to the clutch and it poped in just fine.
Based on all of this I think I have a bad relay between the low pressure sensor and the clutch assembly. The only problem is I cant find it. Where this relay is located
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As the title states, I am getting a weird click from what seems to be both front and back when going over bumps or turning slow. Thinking it may be sway bar bushings or something like that, but not 100%... Its also not your typical blown CV boot click either, its more like something is flexing and hitting into something...
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Let's start from the beginning. I have an 03 f150. After loading it up for a big kayak trip, it wouldn't start. The odo read all blanks and the theft light was blinking rapidly( for about a min, then the "16 code")
Soo I checked all the fuses and relays with multimeter and they all checked fine. Checked all the connections and everything else right in front of me.
Soo this is where I'm stumped. On the pcm relay, I get constant power on the bottom pin. I also get power when the key is on to the right pin. The ground is good(left pin), as I used it for the test.
Now if I jump power from the battery to the top pin the truck starts right up. No theft light, and the odo is fine. So I replaced the relay, even though it tested fine, because that had to be it...right? Still nothing...
Not really sure what that means, or where to look.
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My 2001 F150 was dead, my son came in and told me Dad when I open the door I hear a clicking. Upon investigation a relay in fuse panel was clicking and I had to jump start the truck. NOTE- The truck has a brand new battery purchased 3 days prior to this issue.
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My truck has started fine every time I've turned the key except for last night after work. I got in had all the lights on the dash and dome lights. I turned the key and nothing. Not even a click. Hooked it up to a company truck and it fired right up and ran fine. Drove home shut off and then started it a little later and it started fine. Then this morning it wouldn't start. I hooked up the jump pack and still nothing. I drove my fusion to work and when I got home I went out and it fired right up like nothing happened. Does the work sometimes not work other times sound like the solenoid on the firewall? 2000 4x4 4.6 auto 253k miles
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I have a 97 F-150 v6 with 62K miles on it. I went out the other day to start it and all I got was a loud click from under the dash. I figured it was the battery. Late for work already, I just drove the wife's car. This morning I tried to jump it, nothing, just the same loud click. Headlights are good and bright. I'm no truck mechanic so I was maybe thinking solenoid or starter.
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I got a 1997 f150 4x4 4.6L had to replace fuel rail after a couple holes were rubbed in it and caused a fire, but now after two weeks of it sitting at the dealer, I wasn't gonna pay for a fuel rail to be put on so i had it towed home and I did it, however now when I go to start it, it just clicks. So I have the battery tested and its bad so it was still warrantied so it now has a new battery and i also replaced the starter solenoid while i was at it. But still just a click when i try to start it. I had the starter out and bench tested it and it went but went slow and looked very old and tired, I am thinking i need a starter now because its a click from the starter, like its trying to go but isn't strong enough.
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Locating subject relay on my F-150 XLT Extended Cab, 4.6Ltruck. All my research thus far indicates it is somewhere on the truck. An electrical diagram I've come up with shows it in the "Blower/Flasher Relay Block". So my question is exactly where is the Blower/Flasher Relay Block?
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1997 f150 electronic 4wd not working, lights on dash not working(they light up on start up) replaced transfer case motor still not working, checked all fuses, Do not feel or hear clicks on vacuum solenoid, Top vacuum lines on both have vacuum. Where do I go from here? What do I check next....
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2001 F150 4.6 V8 Triton
Automatic
Battery Tests Good
Starter Tests Good - I saw it spin and come out at the testing station at Autozone
Ignition Relay (the one in the fusebox)- New (8mo.)
Switch on the firewall on passenger side of truck - New (8mo.)
Battery terminals/connectors - Tight, no movement, Cleaned within the last week.
Starter connections - cleaned within the last week.
I am having trouble with my truck not starting. The issue has been occurring on and off for over a year. Usually, it happens about once a month, regardless of weather.
I turn the key, and there is one click. Usually at this point, I can use one hand to gently pull the shifter "up" towards park and turn the key again and it will start. Recently it is not starting when I do this. I have tried many times, and have tried to start it in Neutral (is that even possible with an Automatic?).
With the key in the "ON" position, I go under the truck and jump the starter cellinoid. I am jumping the small post to the big post where th wire comes from the battery. I do not touch the post that the wire goes into the starter.
I am very confused because it starts just fine without fail and almost instantly when I jump the posts. It is drive-able this way, but I would like to resolve this issue, and resume using my key to start it since the issue doesn't seem to be resolving itself as it usually does.
A friend told me about the Ignition Starter Switch inside the Column. If I have time I will attempt to start the truck with a screw driver on the switch tonight to narrow down the issue.
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