I noticed a vacuum line hanging under my 98 F 150 4x4 I traced it out to my front axle question is where does the other end go I have looked but no luck to where it goes.
View 5 RepliesLast night we had some serious rain and I went through a pretty deep water puddle at speed. I didn't see it until I was right on top of it. This morning I see a vent line of some sort hanging under the truck. The end is attached to the real axle on the left side and on the other end is a plastic connector. I have searched high and low and can not see where this connects to.
View 6 Replies02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
View 1 RepliesRecently I have been having a strong gas smell coming from my 1997 F150 Supercab 4.6L 2wd. It is not happening all of the time. I have also been hearing what sounds like a vacuum line leak. A loud shrill which varies with the engine rpm. This also does not happen all of the time.
View 1 RepliesThis has been on going for the past year. The blend works fine. Fan speed works correctly. The selection for ac, max ac, etc., will only allow air through defrost vents. Vacuum leak?
1998 4.6 auto super cab
I have a vacuum line missing on the top of intake its a 98 explorer 4.0 sohc. I don't know where it goes...
View 2 RepliesSo.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
View 9 RepliesMy car has been missing after a recent spark plug change, so i did a smoke test and i see smoke coming from under the air cleaner and i see that the accessory vacuum line goes under there, could this be the cause of the misfire? i already checked all the sparkplug work and wires. and if this could be the problem how would i get to it 1998 Buick century 3.1.
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
If I even fart in my truck, there is a jingling underneath. I know my ball bearings need to be replaced. But, what the noise is. It sound like loose change in my pocket. I can't describe it any better.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 4.6 2wd regular cab with 255,000 miles on it. Lately it has had some problems. The first is that it will run really rough when under a load, meaning when I step on the gas. It runs smooth at idle and at cruise but when I step on the accelerator it bogs way down and almost shuts off. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Now I'm thinking maybe fuel pump?
The other issue is that when the truck is having to work a little harder (i.e. pulling a trailer or running in the summer with the AC on) it will start to run hot. I have changed the thermostat, flushed the coolant, cleaned out the radiator, etc. and it still does it. Could both of my issues be related to a fuel problem??
I have a 98 F150. The motor was replaced three months ago and have had no problems until now. The truck had trouble starting so i put an alternator on it. Fixed for a while and then it started blowing fuel relay fuses. I replaced fuel pump and filter. Truck has trouble starting after sitting overnight. When I am driving and floor it, once it hits about 4,000 rpms, the truck bucks like its the transmission but the rpms drop and then pick back up. Fuel pressure is right where its supposed to be.
View 1 RepliesI have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford F150 with 4.2.. Started off a intermittent problem of not starting acct no fuel. Now will not start at all. Checked all fuses and relays.. Am not getting voltage at fuel pump. Changed ECM thinking that was the problem.. Have checked all multi wire connectors for corrosion and tightness. Am at a lost what to try next.
Also, not sure if its related or not. The turn signals and hazard flashers do not work. When I turn on the hazard flashers, nothing happens. If I leave the flashers switch on, the turn signal work. Checked all fuses and relays and they appear good.
having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
I have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
View 3 RepliesSo my 98 f150 xlt 4.6 is having a issue where the truck is jumping from 1500 rpm to about 2500 - 2600 rpm. You know sitting there trying to get up to speed. then all the sudden i look down and its at 1500 rpm. but still not really going anywhere. So i give it a little more throttle or gas and it jumps from 1500 to about 2500. Its been like this for a month but i thought it was crap fuel. What is the cause or maybe a solution?
View 4 RepliesI've got a 97 f150 with 4.6l and my factory tach needle hangs up. Sometimes doesn't move at all and I can tap on the tach and it will work ok. Then I check it and it is stuck in the 2000 to 3000 rpm range. Can I take it apart and clean it or won't .....
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F150 supercrew 4x4 and I'm on my 3rd - 4wd vacuum actuator this winter so far. Somehow water is getting into the actuator itself mounted on the axle and then when it gets cold enough it freezes up and won't work until the heat from the engine thaws it out and then the 4x4 will engage.
Every time I've changed it I have found the part to have about a quarter cup of water in it. and can't figure out where the water may be entering these things. There also was no moisture in the vacuum lines when I blew them out.
I've been using the Dorman brand replacements from O'Reilly, they have a lifetime quarantee but I'm sick of swapping them out every month...
I'm working on a 03 Lariat F150 with vac. controlled 4x4 (I'm new to this one). Transfer case works, ft drive shaft turns, but the front axle wont engage. The servo works, and the linkage is tight on the shaft, and the shaft turns back and forth, and the ft axle can be engage manually by working the small lever back and forth with the servo disconnected, but when zip-tied in place it doesn't stay in 4x4, so something is broken, worn out, or disconnected inside the housing.
Also I repositioned the servo back a bit with a spacer to make sure it wasn't a length of travel issue, and is not - the problem is definitely inside - the linkage feels sloppy when manipulated with the servo off.
Since Ive never had one of these apart I thought Id ask first (also a new thing for me), so I'd know what parts to get (I don't live "in town"), and I figger this isn't the first one of these to break. So I am sitting down - what am I in for??? It looks pretty straight forward, but somehow I doubt it is...