Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 V8 4.6L Engine Locked Up
Oct 26, 2012
My aunt has a 1998 F150 with the 4.6 V8. with only 40,000 miles.
Two years ago when she tried to leave work the truck would not start, it would crank over, but it would not start. She had the truck towed home and we figured out it was her fuel pump went bad. She did not have the money at the time to fix it, so she let it set and drover her nissan around.
I know after sitting for a few years the piston rings will stake (rust) to the cylinder walls. Usually take the plugs out, and pour in some oil, PB blaster,etc....and let it sit for a day or so, then turn the motor by hand to free it up.
Well She decided to get it fixed finally, and had it towed to the local ford dealer after sitting in her driveway for two years. Ford calls her later in the day and tells her the battery is dead and wont hold a charge, and the engine is siezed/locked up. They tell her it needs a brand new engine and could cost $5000. + after all is said and done.
She calls me asking what she should do. I told her BS! it only has 40,000 miles, and it does not need a new engine. It just needs to be broke free from sitting. I told her to have it towed to my house and I will fix it.
So today she had the tow truck bring it out to me. Tow truck driver tells me that ford said it has a bad fuel pump ( we knew) and that the motor has a spun main bearing in the motor..and asks me if I was going to rebuild the engine.
I tell him the story on the truck and he shook his head..and said yea..Ford is Full of it! I call my aunt and tell her what the tow truck driver told me, so she calls Ford..and asks what they did to the truck? Ford said, the truck has a dead battery, bad fuel pump and a spun bearing. She asked them how do they know it was a bearing?
Ford said they got the truck to run but the engine made a horrible noise like a bad /spun bearing inside.
I asked her, how did they get the truck to run with no gas/no fuel pressure if the fuel pump is out? The only way they could is with spraying Starting fluid ( ETHER) into the motor and fuel injection motors HATE that..they will run like total crap...
Bang, etc. because none of the sensors are working correctly..and makes the computer go OH CRAP. It's the end of the world!
If they (ford service) broke the motor free..I wonder how bad they did it. Did they FORCE it and break something internal ( bent a rod, wrist pin..)? I can't prove it, if they did.
So the truck is at my house and I am going to check it out. I am still going to pull the plugs and put oil inside, turn the motor by hand to make sure it is not locked up or messed up internally from them "working" on it.
I have never heard of a bearing going bad by just sitting. I have never worked on a 4.6 mod motor..and I know nothing about how good or bad they are... but I am soon to find out!
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I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
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I have a 1998 f150 4x4 with a 4.6 triton vin #w and only 150,000 miles but its smoking. On first start up everything is good to go but when the engine reaches operating temperatures it will smoke.
It does not smoke all the time, just on takeoff. Such as after taking off after sitting at a red light it will puff a cloud of smoke from both sides of the engine. The engine is smoking blue so I know its oil its burning.
I pulled the valve covers off last week and the engine is clean, no sludge or gum. Power is good, runs good, and has good compression. Why its smoking.
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I have a 98 F150, 4.6L with approx. 245,000 miles on it. recently it started, then studdered a little bit and died. I managed to get it re-started, it then shuddered a little more although I was able to drive it back up the drive way and park it. Now, it will crank however it does not even attempt to fire. The sound that it makes when trying to start seems odd to me. Like the engine is just turning against a constant resistance instead of the normal starting sound. I tried shooting a little starter fluid into the throttle body and nothing changed. I pressed on the shrader valve and got a spew of fuel to come out so it seems that it might not be a fuel problem though it sure sounds like one. Just curious, what are the symptoms of a truck with no compression?
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I have a 98 f-150 4.6L 5spd that has a weird rattling noise coming from what sounds like the engine. The noise will only happen when the truck is in gear and under a load. It will not happen if I keep the RPM's low, unless I am going up a hill. When I rev the truck in neutral, the rattling noise isn't there. Also when I'm driving and hear the ratling noise it will go away when i push the clutch in(which im guessing takes the load off) but will come back when i let out on the clutch. Seems to happen most when I'm in gear and trying to accelerate.
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Removing 4.6 triton from 1998 F-150. Is there a way to remove the top 2 screws connecting the engine to the bell housing without removing the intake manifold? Although I don't mind removing the intake, I am doing a 4.6 to 5.4 swap and would rather attach the intake prior to putting the 5.4L back in. Figuring if I cant get it out that way though, I wont be able to put it back that way.
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I have a 98 F150 Supercab 4x4 with 4.6 and an auto trans. I have 107,000 miles on the truck. Recently developed a engine "tick". Upon start up the "tick" is very noticeable. Seems to go away after its been driven a few miles and everything comes up to operating temp. I have checked the exhaust manifolds, all studs and nuts are still there. There are no noticeable holes that I could feel in the manifolds. Read some other posts here that have the "tick under load". Mine goes away once everything warms up. What to look at or for?
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I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
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I Have a 1998 f150 4.6 XLT and recently it has been starting on and off. sometimes i will try and start it and wham! it starts right off. then other times I just here the starter hitting and engaging but nothing. Replaced the starter, solenoid and still nothing. It does have an alarm system but the alarm light doesn't come on, also had battery charged and its working fine. I am really fed up with this beautiful looking POS. Oh and the wiper motor needs replace.
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I own a 1998 ford f150 4.6l triton v8. I was leaving my house to go on a snowboarding trip about three weeks ago it was a rather warm wet day and all of the sudden my check engine light began to flash. I immediately pulled over and restarted my truck, once it was started again it was solid.
I turned around and started driving towards home. I get a small amount of feedback from my speakers and usually it's a smooth whizzing sound but as i accelerated the sound began to stutter rather than remain smooth. after about 5 minutes of driving this went away and the check engine light remained on.
so today I went out it's also a wet day and it's raining quite a lot. on my way into town everything seemed okay. then on my way home the check engine light began to flash again and the feedback from the speakers became choppy again.
I would also like to mention my battery light is on but it was on prior to the first time this happened. I'm just wondering if the belt could be loose or slipping due to the wet weather?
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I have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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I have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
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My son locked my keys in the cab of the truck. To complicate things, I have the Ford upgraded alarm which disables the keypad. And the real kick in the $^%, is that I only have 1 set of keys. I'm definitely going to have a couple of more sets of keys made when I get inside, how to get inside the cab. I live way out in the boonies and really would like to avoid calling a locksmith.
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So, I know this question has been asked probably a million times. But I can't seem to find the exact information I need. I have a 2003 fx4 f-150 and just like everyone else. My 4x4 doesn't work. But, the deal with mine is that sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. It's a toss up. When it does go in however, it doesn't stay locked in. Sometimes it stays in for 10 seconds, sometimes 30 minutes. When the switch is turned to 4hi or 4low it doesn't always engage, only sometimes. Light on dash comes on every single time I matter what. Solenoids click as they should. Also, the a/c and heater was stuck in the vent only, recently went to defrost only.
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I know it will wear out the tires but will it hurt the front end? Also the drive shafts to the front end is not turning.
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I'm having a problem with my passenger door always staying locked. Even when I press the unlock button it won't unlock, but it will unlock if i use the key and keep it turned but if i turn the key back after I unlock it it locks automatically. The other way I can open the door is from the inside door handle only. How can I fix this so people can enter in the passenger side normally???
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97 F150 4x4 5.4L ... Just put this truck back on the road after being parked since 2008. While driving at 45 mph, transfer case engaged and is locked in 4wd lo. I did notice a pop about a minute after I started the truck. Drove approx. 5 miles. Transfer case engaged and chirped the back tires, slowed speed to about 5mph. Having it towed home. I'm thinking shift motor???
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I have a 97 f150 5.4 4x4 a/c compressor and clutch. It won't let my motor turn over because the ac compressor is locked up bc the bearings are shot is there any way to by fix this until i get a new compressor and clutch....
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I have a 02' f150 v6 67,000 miles. When I come to a stop, the trans shudders abit like the converter is still locked up. It then goes to stall in a few seconds. this does not happen all the time, fluid is clean. I understand there is a simple fix for this, or is this normal?
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Going down a steep loose gravel drive way, going maybe 5 miles per hour. About 50 feet before the stop sign we lightly applied the brakes and the front right wheel completely locked up. If we didn't turn into the grass we would of stopped in the middle of the busy street. We picked up speed when we applied the brakes, like we were on ice. When I got out, I could see the one long brake mark in the driveway. This happened on a paved road about 6 months ago, it had some loose gravel at the stop sign. I couldn't tell which wheel locked up at the time. This happened on snow in December to, twice. Since the ABS light never came on. Brake pads and rotors needed replacing about 9 months ago. Tires have been rotated, no change. Not sure what it could be. I disconnected the Abs fuse for now.
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