Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 V6 - Loping At Idle / Almost Stalls While In Gear
Mar 25, 2014
I have a 98 F150, 4.2 V-6, 183,000 miles.. Lately, she's been loping at idle. Especially while in gear... almost stalls. Once revved up, everything seems normal. Still goes up hills fine if I get on the gas. The light was on, and I got codes for lean condition on both banks.. (P0174, P0175).
I already cleaned all the sensors in front of the intake.
The MAF was real dirty, and the IAC was full of soot too.
They both cleaned up nicely, but it didn't work.
I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge yesterday, and it showed 12 psi with the "key on, engine off".
It showed 29-30 @ idle, and only went up to 35 when I revved it a little.
The guy at the store said the range is supposed to be "30-45 psi with the ignition on", but I'm not sure if that means engine running or not..?
Either way, it looks like the pressure is on the low side, so I'm going to change the fuel filter next (and hope for the best).
If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, what should I go after next? And, is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator before buying a new one?
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I was driving home last night and when I stopped at a light in town, I notice the oil pressure dropped and the light came on. So I pulled over and put in park to check my oil. As I put in park the pressure went back up. I dropped it back into gear and it went back down. What could be causing this? I check my oil and it was full. I also notice when I put it in gear and speed up the pressure goes back up and stays there till I slow down again.
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I found an interesting thing, when I start the truck right away without waiting for the glow plug light to completely cycle (Engine at operating temp) the engine will lope REALLY bad. Now, when I wait for the glow plug light to finish and then start the engine, it runs as normal. I checked and cleaned the PCM pins for the chip and everything is good. Ghosts & gremlins.
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My buds 2003 4.6 liter stalls every time he takes his foot off the pedal. Runs fine otherwise, no roughness or anything, you just have to keep your foot on the thing to keep it from dying out.
We checked for codes and found none. I checked vacuum connections and they looked OK.
Is there an easy way to test the IAC or should we just throw a new one in and cross our fingers? If we do change it out, does the truck need to be driven around a bit for the computer to re-learn anything?
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I had what I was told was the breather (on the drivers side valve cover) snap off. I was able to place a piece of tubing In it and reconnect it. I had to change the #7 cylinder spark plug wire. Got a misfire code and found the wire was loose and corroded. Replaced wire and PVC valve.
My problem is, it seems not to be idling as fast as it was before this happened. The truck stalls out now in gear but not in park. 1997 F150 4.6 ....
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My dad has passed his 99 f 150 with 130,000 miles to me. It is a 2 wheel drive, extended cab automatic equipped with the 4.6. Recently, the blend door failed and as a temporary measure I installed a ball valve in the heater core supply hose. The ac now blows ice cold.
On two occasions since the installation of the ball valve, the truck has stalled at idle when in park and would not start, although it turned over fine, until 30 to 45 minutes elapsed. On both occasions it was a hot day. The check engine light is not on and no codes are stored.
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I have a 97 ford f150 with a 5.4 I bought the truck with 114000 miles on it and the exhaust manifold bolts were broke from the exhaust I have replace the whole manifold with new gaskets and bolts and I get the codes 1131 and 1151 which indicates o2 sensors indicate lean and I also get p0136 and p0153 which indicate lean or front o2 sensors it will stay running for a little bit every once in a while but it only idles at 200 to 400 rpms and I'm not sure what to do?
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2001 f150 supercrew 5.4 triton... Recently did a tune up plugs,coil packs,filters,belt the whole 9 yards. The truck starts fine accelerates great and cruises down the road great without missing a beat.
But every now and then when you stop at a light or park it begins to idle down to the point where it almost stalls. When it does this i usually stab the throttle and it revs right up without missing a beat and idles fine for a a while then same thing all over again.
Could this be the idle air control? Seems like something simple due to the fact it runs down the road and accelerates like a big dog.
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I have just put in another transmission and the truck will not shift out of first gear, it will go in reverse and first and reverse. The guy who had it before me had the same problem when he put in a transmission with only about 40-60,000 miles he assumed it was a bad transmission. And that's how I ended up with the truck. We have so far installed yet another transmission and it is doing the same not shifting out of first that it did for him. There is no cel or blinking overdrive lights, checked fluid levels, checked selinoids, gonna purchase a used computer for diagnostics, I am stumped with limited knowledge. The dealership said the transmission should be the e40d I'm reading it should have the 4r100 is that correct? The truck is the 5.4L v8 with 74,000 original miles. Truck sounds amazing. I really want to fix it.
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A few weeks ago I bot this truck to have some fun with. 98 F150 4.2l with a lift and some beefy tires. Well something to get me into trouble. On the test drive i never herd anything, mostly because I wasn't ripping it around. I know very little about transmissions, mostly because I never had a problem before.
I have a grinding noise when down shifting into 3rd for either 4 or 5th. It doesn't happen when I am going from 2-3. It also wont happen if i keep the clutch disengaged for a few seconds. It almost like the transmission need time to slow down for a second before shifting.
It also does this going into reverse.
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I have a 1998 Ford F150 4.6L Triton V8 with the FX4 package. As of recent I have noticed my truck tends to idle roughly every so often that I start it up and after longer trips but will run fine once I get going. I take care of my truck like its my baby. I've done everything to it that I can without getting into the engine such as replacing spark plugs, wires, KN air filter, new ignition coil packs, change oil every 5000 with best products, etc the basic tune up stuff every one should do. This truck only has 118,xxx miles on it as it sat in a barn for around 4 or 5 years due to the previous owner being in the military.
I have been trying to search for the cause of this problem but cannot exactly seem to pinpoint it myself. One unusual thing I've noticed also is that when I run the air either hot or cold when my RPM's get high, when I go up hills or punch it, the air switches from vent to dashboard(defrost). I talked to someone who said this was most likely a vacuum leak. Maybe there is a correlation between the two? I'm not exactly sure. I read online my idling problems may be from a cracked PCV elbow? I cleaned out the EGR valve also about two months ago to see if that work. I am willing to try anything myself as long as it doesn't involve tearing the motor apart!
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So my truck started to intermittently misfire about a month ago . I changed the spark plugs wires at first and it seemed to get better but it still had a misfire . I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils and the misfire is still there . Up until the other day it was a noticeable issue but still drivable with . On my way home from work it got alot worse and started to misfire any time I tried to accelerate and now is noticeable at idle now as well.
I checked the fuel injectors resistance and they are about 14.8 ohms . I am not getting any codes for a misfire . I tried to pull the fuel injector connectors to try to find the source of the misfire but could noticeable change in engine rpm. Where to go from here and what I should check first? Would a clogged fuel filter cause something like this ?
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Went with my best friend to pick up his new Super Duty and also visit his Grandfather in Easter Washington. The new 2014 F30 is wonderful. His Grandfathers Ford / Mercury Escort Wagon had the timing belt break and a local shop replaced it, ran good for two days then started loping. When cold it starts and runs great in about 2 min it comes off of cold loop and then starts loping from fast idle to all most off. (never seen a motor RPM drop so low and not stop) when you put it in gear it runs, we did not drive it but Grandfather said it drove home ok just started not idling when in neutral or park.
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Recently I just purchased a 1998 F-250 (light duty) with 11X,XXX miles on it. Up until today, it was running perfectly. However, today it started idling rough whenever I was at a light. This was only when I was stopped, in gear, with my foot on the brake. In neutral or park it didn't do it, and it stopped as soon as I gave it a little gas. No CEL either. I've looked around, and saw that it might just be "feature" of the 4.6. I also have seen to clean the MAF, but wouldn't that also give a rough idle when in park/neutral? Same with replacing the coil pack.
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My truck is a 2000 model 2wd with the 5.4 engine. It has about 234000 miles on it. It suddenly started surging last night rpm jumping around approximately 4-600rpms each time. I noticed that once I got up around 50mph it would smooth out...
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My '05 Excursion recently started having rough idle and some loping when started cold. It seems to run good and idles pretty good when it warms up. I'm also getting a P0488 code (EGR Throttle Control Circuit A Range/Performance). I do have a BPD EGR and I don't recall if that would throw a code alone? I'm taking a trip next week and want to get it straightened out. Does it sound like an EGR valve issue?
I also thought about a battery issue, I know that can cause weird problems. I have Duralast batteries and they always seem to fail at about 2-3 years. I took it in and they say it tested good but I'm not always sure with them. Long story, but when cranking for longer than normal, the cranking power would drop quite a bit. Checked battery and had some corrosion. Cleaned and upon further inspection, the positive post is a bit eroded at the base and sunken in. The voltage was about 12.35 after sitting all night, a couple of the cells were reading lower than the others (about 50%, other 75%) when checked specific gravity. I tested voltage after batteries had been in the truck overnight, then unhooked from truck when testing.
I also thought about a glow plug/harness issue. The truck cranks for awhile before starting, 5-6 seconds sometimes, but not all the time. It starts up pretty quickly when warm. That's been going on for some time. Anyway, I will try to get a video of the rough start after cools down.
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I changed the plugs on my 2004 F-150 FX4 with 165,000 miles. Immediately afterwards I experienced a low idle problem. After engine warms up, idle is at about 400 rpm in nuetral or park. When I put in gear it drops to 200 rpm and sometimes stalls. Ford analyzer says misfire #8 cylinder. I swapped coils with #7 and reset fault. #8 cylinder misfire came back. So next I put new plug in #8 thinking the plug was bad. Still have low idle problem. What I should try next?
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I have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
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My 1998 Jimmy SLE 4.3L is having issues starting. The vehicle will start but then stop when it settles down to the idle rpm. When i turn the key I get a fuel pressure of around 52-54psi and i can hear the fuel pump running. The odd time when I can get the vehicle to run I get a fuel pressure of 55psi and the engine runs better than it ever has. Since the problem started I have changed the following:
Cap and Rotor
Spark Plugs and Wires
PCV valve
Fuel Filter
No codes showed during a scan and the problem occurs often but occasionally it will start without a problem. My last thought it would be a fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator. Again, I can hear the fuel pump activate when i turn the key and the fuel pressure is just below 55psi when i turn the key.
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l have a 98 s10 with the "x" code 4.3l. While driving the cel started flashing and it lost all power. after got home i scanned the codes and revealed a MAF sensor error. replaced the maf sensor, which did not work. Then replaced the cap, rotor, and wires as they were burned through. This made the truck run fine when given gas, but makes a knocking sound at idle and stalls.
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2003. Ranger xlt with the 4.0.... So I just bought this truck and was informed that the vacuum might not be functioning correctly. And here's the symptoms. It idles a little rough, nothing major. When I put the truck into gear either drive or reverse, it stalls out almost every time unless I give it some gas and hold the brake. But after that I could drive it all day with out a problem, as long as I don't put it into park. And last it starts a little hard. But the damn thing runs great while driving it. It's still very snappy even having high miles.
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