Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 V6 - High Beams And Coolant Gauge Not Working
Nov 15, 2012
I just bought a 98 F150 V6 Manual transmission 2wd truck. Its a clean truck and I'm liking it so far but its got a couple minor issues. Whats the point of buying a truck if you don't get to work on it??
The High Beams don't work at all. Low beams are fine. I've put new bulbs in, and fuse 16 in the passenger compartment has continuity. I'm suspecting the multiple function switch, because when I pull out to engage the high beams, nothing happens. The indicator on the dash doesn't come on, and the low beams don't turn off either.
The second issue is the coolant gauge doesn't read. When I turn the key to the on position, the needle on the gauge moves up just a bit, but it never moves after that. Anything to check?
There are a couple other minor things like the e-brake light on the dash doesn't always turn on, but I can deal with that.
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I recently installed new halo HID headlights in my 2003 f150 with HID bulbs and ballast the passenger side worked and the drivers side didn't nth lights wired exactly the same. I switched everything from the passenger to the drivers side still nothing I switched everything back to passenger side and they don't work now. I tired regular bulbs in the passenger side an it worked then on the drivers side and it worked for a split second and went out and then I retried t on the passenger side and it worked for a split second and went out a now neither are working. I checked all the fuses and their good. What the problem could be?
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The turn signals and high beams do not work on my 1998 ford ranger xlt 4x4. I have replaced the multi function switch, the yellow flasher relay checked all fusses and all are good. What could be the problem?
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I have checked fuse 46 and 47, and installed new headlight bulbs. I have high beams, but no low beams. I have searched this topic but no one has the same prob it seems. My headlight switch has broken. Could it be the headlight switch?
In my manual, it says the 2002 has a fuse panel behind the glove box. I took glove box out but it doesn't look like a fuse panel.
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My High beams for a 2003 cavalier are not working. I checked the bulbs and they are good, The Low Beams Work and my drls work. I switch from low to high and the blue indicator on the cluster panel comes on.
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Temperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
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Finish a job yesterday and go to start my 98 F-150...4.6 and get the dreaded click. All has been fine. Firewall relay clicking, so crawl underneath in the slop and snow and the main battery wire corroded off the starter solenoid. Go back up top and turn the key to run position, crawl back underneath and short that wire to the other main terminal that feeds the 12 volts into the starter. Truck starts right up. That gets me home, I found a 4 gauge lug in my electrical stuff, clean up the wire and crimp it on ( actually a smoosh with a vice-grip cause my crimper won't get in there and trying to solder in that position wasn't gonna' work). Replacing that cable and how hard was it to pull it out of that loom that it shares with other wires? I was thinking just run a separate cable in a new loom and zip tie it to the other loom? I was guessing it is 2 gauge? Looks like about 4' would be enough to go from the battery to the starter.
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I have a 2002 supercrew 5.4 triton. My coolant temp gauge is acting up. When it starts up its obviously in the cold range but when the truck begins to get up to temp, the gauge only goes up 1/4 full. What it can be?
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Basically my coolant temperature gauge either reads as the hottest it can be, or the coldest. It doesn't jump around a whole bunch, but it's always all the way to one end or the other. From what I've read there seems to be a lot of different temperature sensors, so I get a little confused with all of the abbreviations, but I'm fairly certain I checked the correct one, next to the thermostat housing.
Using a multimeter I checked the resistance of the sensor, and it was around 600 ohms about 30 minutes after it had been driven. I'm not sure if this is where it should be or not, but it was rising as the truck cooled off.
Anyway, I'm not sure if I just tested the sensor incorrectly or if there could be another issue. A friend of mine suggested that the thermostat may have gotten stuck or something, but it doesn't seem like the gauge would switch at all if that were the case. What I should check to try and fix this.
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1998 F150 4x4 4.2 ... Small leak spraying out of a steel pipe onto the front of the motor. This isn't my truck so I'm not very familiar with it but looks like there is a pipe that come from the water pump threw a bracket and y's and one end has a hose going to heater core n the other part is where the leak is I think it has a hose connected to it that goes to the intake. Only leaks when thermostat open. I'm going to take it apart tonight n see what I find. Iv looked for a replacement part and found nothing so I am going to try n replace the steel pipe with hose.
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My son bought his first truck, 1998 Ford F150 Supercab 4.6L Auto. (Proud of Him)
Salvage Flood Title, looks like engine been replaced. (Not so proud of him).
Anyway, vehicle seems to run and drive fine, however, failed emissions test.
P0125 Code pops up, Temp Gauge is not working, pegs all the way hot after truck is running, changed out Both ECT's in front of engine, one is right beside the other, I guess one goes to PCM and other to Gauge.
Now Gauge is reading all the way cold, let run for over 30 minutes and still shows nothing on Gauge...
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My '97 F250 5.4L is pumping coolant on to the top of the motor which is burning off causing it to smoke like it's overheated but the temp gauge is operating in normal range. I'm losing coolant but can't see where. It's not going to the ground. It just pools up on the top of the motor. I've already replaced the water pump in the last 2 weeks because of the same issue. It stopped for a few days but now it's back again. Bad water pump from O'Reily's or is there some other issue here? I've checked while the motor's running and can't see where the coolant is coming from and there's no coolant coming out of the bleed hole in the top of the new water pump. I need this truck up and running.
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My F150 at startup is reving real high, almost max rpm's, like the pedal is on the floor. What could be going on?
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I have an 1998 F150 4.6L V8 that is using coolant. I recently replaced the radiator because of a leak in the lower right side. Vehicle has about 190000 miles on it. The vehicle is using some coolant, but no apparent leaks. When I warmed up the engine after replacing the radiator, liquid dripped out of the back of the muffler - rusted out.
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How to diagnose my gas gauge not working? How to find out if it's the sending unit, pump, or gauge?
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So I have a 98 f150 with the 4.6L V8. Been having some issues with it, first off it gets the standard film on the windows associated with a bad heater core, it doesn't leak fluid into the truck tho. But it does have an issue with heat. Also while driving the coolant system develops an air bubble and pushes fluid out the over flow. Also it periodically registers that it's over heating and goes into limp mode. if you press in the clutch and turn the truck off it resets and acts as if nothing ever happened.
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I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
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New truck to me. Truck was advertised with a slow coolant leak. Figured I would trace the leak down and get it repaired no issues. Anyway, working on it this evening I take a close look around the oil filler area and notice the dreaded milkshake color.
I drained the oil out of the truck and the oil actually came out nice and black. Is the headgasket the only area that would cause the oil/coolant mixture? Supposedly the truck has never been overheated.
At any rate, on to find articles on how to pull apart a 4.6L Triton head. I'll see if I'm up to this challenge.
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Low beams work fine. When I push the Multi-Function lever on the column forward to activate the high beams, I have no lights at all. When it is in low beam (middle) position, low beams work fine. When I pull back for click to pass, only the low beams are active. No high beam indicator in instrument cluster. I have:
1. Replaced both headlight bulbs
2. Replaced the multi-function switch on the column. Checked test pins on switch (MF) they are hot when in either high beam position or click to pass position
3. checked fuses (interior)
#8 - power on both sides of fuse
#16 (15a) High beam headlamps, instrument cluster. ***NO POWER ON EITHER SIDE***
4. checked fuses (engine compartment)
#10 - power on both sides
#21 - Power on both sides
#23 - power on both sides of fuse
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Over the past weekend i noticed all the electronics having a slight "flicker", so I figured my alternator was on its way out. After replacing the alt with a reman, I still had the issue. Then, replaced it with a new new one and the issue still persists. I will be getting a meter to test later when my buddy gets off work. The gauge on the dash is running high and battery light is flickering. Is there something I am missing? I ran another ground to frame also.
2001 SCAB 5.4 144,000mi 4x4 ....
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'98 F150. the speedometer isn't working, all other gauges are. Where do I start ?
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