Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 Truck Will Not Start Occasionally And Error Codes
Mar 1, 2013
I have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
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I bought my 2003 F-150 XL (4.2L V6, 2WD, had 165k miles when purchased, 170k now, battery is a Napa brand manufactured in April 2012) in June 2012. A few weeks after I got it, I started having some weird issues. The check engine light came on and I went and had the codes read at Advance Auto. They were P0171 and P0174, lean bank one and lean bank two. The vacuum leak causing these codes isn't the issue I'm dealing with, it is the electrical problem.
The truck will occasionally flash every light on the dash (service engine soon, low fuel, oil, coolant temperature, seat belt, door ajar, and a couple others if I remember correctly) when I turn the key to power on the electronics. The first time I turn the key all the way to crank the truck up, it cranks fine, starts up, and dies within 3-4 seconds. The second time, it does the same thing. Third time, it just cranks and cranks, but will not start. After cranking and not starting a few times, the truck basically just clicks because the battery is run down.
This problem has happened randomly since June. It might be six weeks, one week, or only a few days between occurrences. The last two times it did it, I took the battery out of the truck, put it on a 6 amp charger overnight (about 8 hours), put it back in the truck, and it still wouldn't start, lights still flashing, etc. I gave it about 2-3 hours and both times the truck would start strongly and without incident, and the service engine soon light was off.
It rained here a LOT this summer, so I figured it might have something to do with driving through standing water at various speeds. The problem seems loosely associated with rainy weather (it rained last Saturday and I had to drive approximately 10-12 miles in it), but now it has started something new.
Yesterday afternoon, I tried to start the truck and it did the above described problem. I took the battery off and put it on a 10 amp charger for about six hours yesterday and left it disconnected overnight. Reconnected it this morning, gave it a couple of hours, still nothing. I remembered one time a while back that hitting the odometer reset button made the dash lights stop flashing. I held down the reset button and everything stayed lit up, but stopped flashing. Turned the key with the reset button held down and the truck started right up, but the dash kept flashing.
Turned it off, tried starting it without holding down the odometer reset, would crank, but not start. Tried starting it while holding down the odometer reset again, started right up. When I turned it off and tried it a third time, it just cranked for about six seconds before I gave up. This time, the oil, coolant temperature, battery, and service engine soon lights stayed lit (not flashing, they were solid) and the truck refused to start anymore.
Before it did the odometer reset BS I thought maybe I could figure it out because while it was a ghost of a problem that randomly came and went, it was always the same issue. Now I'm COMPLETELY lost.
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My 4.2L died all of a sudden, it cranks but won't start. Checked the harness side to coil packs, pos. signal but no neg. Tried a code reader keeps coming back link error. Does this mean PCM is fried?
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I have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
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I have a 98 F250 Supercab XLT. 4wd with 3:73 gear ratio. twist 4wd on the dash. Truck runs great but when i switch to 4wd it makes noise and occasionally will pop out of 4wd. The noise starts at almost no speed. I can hear it at less than 5 mph. and only gets worse as i increase speed. (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) - But only in 4wd/ nice and quiet in 2wd.
I used sensors and ear phones to pinpoint the noise. It appeared to be coming from the front differential. I opened the pumpkin found clean fluid and no metal bits or any visible unusual wear. I changed the front diff. with another used unit. The noise is still there strong and unchanged. The wheel bearings and axles seem to be all right.
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Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors???
I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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My wife and I received her father's 2002 F150 4.2 5 speed 2 wheel drive truck after his passing. He purchased new plug wires and wanted to replace them. So, this weekend I put in new plugs, plug wires, changed the air filter, and changed the oil and filter. Started up and ran really rough. Threw my code reader on after taking it around the block and found the following codes...
P0316 Misfire detected in first 1000 revs,
P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire,
P0305 Cylinder 5 misfire,
P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire.
New plugs were Motorcraft plugs, but had skinnier center compared to the ones that came out of truck.
Where do I start? What do I do? I am really confused as I have changed plugs and wires before and always had vehicle run better or same as before change.
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So I have been having some troubles with my 2003 F150 4.6L ... Truck has been running rough and the check engine light was on so I decided to get the codes read and I got back P0302 and P0304, which from what I understand is a misfire on cylinders 3 & 4. At the same time I got Ford to do a little diagnostic and this is what they wrote for me:
"The connector for the number 2 coil is broken and will not stay plugged on to the coil and the number 2 coil is not working / replaced the wire for the coil still running rough removed the coil and plug. the plug was very badly fuel soaked started the vehicle to see if there was spark at the plug. OK. Suspect either a injector issue or a compression issue cleaned the plug seems better. "
So of course they quoted me for the works. They say I should replace the coils, plugs, and injectors??? I am pretty mechanically inclined and think I could change these things myself since I am on a budget. One tech told me is that the plugs can seize in these engines often and could scrap the whole thing??? Seems a little weird. If that happens though what could I do?
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I am having problems with a 2003 Ford F 150 with a 4.2 L V6. The problem is that it is giving me code errors that would indicate bad O2 sensors. I replaced both the upper and lower O2 sensors, and still I get the same codes. I was told by the mechanic with the computer reader that this usually means a bad vacuum seal. He suggested looking for bad hoses, but did not offer much more than that. How to proceed?
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I have a 97 F150, 2wd, 4.6, auto bought for a great price agout 3 months ago.... I installed a cold air intake (air raid) and a throttle body spacer with the swirling cuts.
Since the cold air intake add, the truck occasionally makes a load "roaring" sound from the intake system. At same time rpms increase 500-1000 rpms...
it doesn't do it all the time, mostly at low throttle, and a quick jab on the accelerator usually stops it. sometimes such as when parking, holding the brake and applying a bit of throttle with load from the brake will also stop it.
Guys at local garage seem to think it has something to do with lower outside temps, (denser) and addition of cold air intake. it made the noise before the throttle body spacer.
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So a few weeks back, i went to the store after work, came out and my truck just cranked and cranked but wouldn't turn over. I simply turned the key off and back on, waited for the WTS light to go out and she started up. I just blew it off, thinking i didn't wait long enough to start it.
Then, later that week i come out of a restaurant and it cranks and cranks but doesn't start. i tried turning the key off and on, waiting 30 seconds between em and still nothing. Then a few minutes later, i try again and she fires up, no problems and runs like a champ.
Well 2 fridays ago, I go out with some buddies, go to leave and it happens again. Cranks and cranks, but not starting. I got a ride to my place, grabbed a fuel filter, thinking maybe its clogged, it's been awhile since i changed it. I got back to my truck, and it started up fine, without changing the filter.
Then last night as i am out of town, 10 hours away from home it happens again. And i kept trying and trying and trying but it never wanted to start. I was about to submit my payment for the Uber back to my hotel when i decide to try it again and it fired right up.
Now I'm kind of afraid to drive anywhere and shut off my truck in fear of being stranded. What could be causing this? I've looked every where and havent found someone with the exact same problem, usually when i find a thread on turning over but not starting, the truck dies once it runs as well. Mine doesn't. when it starts, she runs great.
No smoke coming out the tail pipe when cranking.
WTS light comes on and off as it should.
Tach does not move, and it won't because it's a 2002.
Where to start, would the CPS cause it to act this way? It only seems to do it when the engine is warm.
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If I even fart in my truck, there is a jingling underneath. I know my ball bearings need to be replaced. But, what the noise is. It sound like loose change in my pocket. I can't describe it any better.
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I have a 1998 F150 4.6 2wd regular cab with 255,000 miles on it. Lately it has had some problems. The first is that it will run really rough when under a load, meaning when I step on the gas. It runs smooth at idle and at cruise but when I step on the accelerator it bogs way down and almost shuts off. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Now I'm thinking maybe fuel pump?
The other issue is that when the truck is having to work a little harder (i.e. pulling a trailer or running in the summer with the AC on) it will start to run hot. I have changed the thermostat, flushed the coolant, cleaned out the radiator, etc. and it still does it. Could both of my issues be related to a fuel problem??
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I have a 98 F150. The motor was replaced three months ago and have had no problems until now. The truck had trouble starting so i put an alternator on it. Fixed for a while and then it started blowing fuel relay fuses. I replaced fuel pump and filter. Truck has trouble starting after sitting overnight. When I am driving and floor it, once it hits about 4,000 rpms, the truck bucks like its the transmission but the rpms drop and then pick back up. Fuel pressure is right where its supposed to be.
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I noticed a vacuum line hanging under my 98 F 150 4x4 I traced it out to my front axle question is where does the other end go I have looked but no luck to where it goes.
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2001 F150 4.6. Just replaced all 4 oxygen sensors and spark plugs. Replaced rubber grommet on brake booster as it was leaking vacuum.
Truck is still running rough hesitating.
Pulled codes came up as PO141 oxygen sensor heater circuit. PO171 passenger side cylinders running lean. Fuel trim outside limits.
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I have a 1998 Ford F150 with 4.2.. Started off a intermittent problem of not starting acct no fuel. Now will not start at all. Checked all fuses and relays.. Am not getting voltage at fuel pump. Changed ECM thinking that was the problem.. Have checked all multi wire connectors for corrosion and tightness. Am at a lost what to try next.
Also, not sure if its related or not. The turn signals and hazard flashers do not work. When I turn on the hazard flashers, nothing happens. If I leave the flashers switch on, the turn signal work. Checked all fuses and relays and they appear good.
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I have the notorious PO171 and PO174 codes on my 2003 5.4L that come back whenever I erase them. I cannot figure out the problem. Whenever I start the truck it cranks for 3-4 seconds before it finally fires, then rpm's are very low, then they finally pick up. I have noticed a loss in power as well. I have completed a full tune-up (spark plugs, coils, boots, filters, etc.)
I have checked the vacuum and PCV lines numerous times, I have yet to find a leak. MAF appears clean. I am running a K&N CAI setup. O2 sensors a good, replaced the gas cap. The only other problem I can see is a bad PCV valve? I hope it isn't a manifold gasket. The truck has been very well maintained and still looks brand-new throughout at 250,000 miles.
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My truck started to idle very rough. I pulled the codes and I got po308 and po316. First I changed plug #8, the electrode was nearly gone. I have never seen a plug in worse shape. Replaced that plug and fired it up, it still idled rough and threw the same codes. Next I moved the #8 coil pack to the #1 location and vice-versa, still the rough idle and same codes. Then I moved the #8 injector to the #1 location same results. Finally I tested compression in the #8 cylinder and it read 32psi ( not good) everything else read 150 to 160 psi. Squirted some oil into #8 and no difference in compression.The truck is a 2002 with 184,000 miles, it burns a quart of oil every couple weeks but still is in perfect shape. Should I bite the bullet and invest in a remanufactured engine for 2500.00? I put one in my 97 f 150 a few years ago with no problems.
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
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