Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Transmission Stuck In 1st Gear?
Mar 8, 2017
I have just put in another transmission and the truck will not shift out of first gear, it will go in reverse and first and reverse. The guy who had it before me had the same problem when he put in a transmission with only about 40-60,000 miles he assumed it was a bad transmission. And that's how I ended up with the truck. We have so far installed yet another transmission and it is doing the same not shifting out of first that it did for him. There is no cel or blinking overdrive lights, checked fluid levels, checked selinoids, gonna purchase a used computer for diagnostics, I am stumped with limited knowledge. The dealership said the transmission should be the e40d I'm reading it should have the 4r100 is that correct? The truck is the 5.4L v8 with 74,000 original miles. Truck sounds amazing. I really want to fix it.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 with the 4.6 Motor approx 150000miles. Transmission went out so I decided to try and replace it...
New/rebuilt tranny went in with no problem but something is not right. It will drive but seems like it is stuck in high gear and bogs the motor down. It is giving me error codes P1747, P0750, P0755, P0743, P0102. All the wiring harness is in good shape with no burns or other noticeable problems. Somehow the transmission isn't reading right?
When I bought this rebuilt transmission I was told it was set up for 2wd but he would convert it for 4wd. The only difference i noticed with the new tranny is the shaft coming out of the tranny, where the safety neutral switch is, has a diamond shape instead of the oval shape that connects the shifter cable. No big deal i think, just had to buy a new link for the shifter cable with the diamond.
Also on the passenger side of the tranny there is a nine pin plug. My wire harness from the truck has one pin hole that is opposite of the tranny. Not sure why. Do I need a new harness or wrong tranny?
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Well I was trying out my four wheel drive today and it worked fine until I went to turn off switch, it would not cut off it is a 98 F150 switch is located on dash. It is stuck in four wheel high!
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98 F150 4.6L 4WD...
Attempted to replace fuel filter tonight. The connector on the fuel tank side of the filter came off just like it is supposed to. The engine side, however, will not come lose at all. I can wiggle to back and forth, but I can't seem to get the tool to compress the springs.
The engine side connector seems to be smaller than the tank side. I've done this once before on a '98 Ranger, but didn't notice a difference in connectors.
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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I have a '97 F150 Lariat Ext cab, 5.4, 2Wd, 175K, a bit rusty but for the most part functional. Unit is parked for long periods of time.
3 - 4 years back the gear shift did not want to go into PARK and and the gear indicator was out of register. Unit would not start and I had to move shift lever to N to start. Fixed the two screws on shift plate/column per this site. Then 18 months ago same thing begin to occur but this time I used blue thread lock to hold screws in place. Still had to throw into park to get it to stay.
6 months ago shifter became very difficult to move and near impossible to get into PARK. When in PARK the interlock must have not been engaged so had to move to N or push lever hard into PARK to start.
Tired of this so I cruised the site and found several posts on taking dash apart, repairing a broken shift tube and or replacing bushings.
Battery disconnected, dash apart, cluster out, steering wheel still on and steering column still in position. Shift tube appears OK, i.e. not broken as in one post, bushings appears OK as there is no play or slop evident, but I cannot get the shift lever to move from PARK, period.
When the shift lever is pulled toward the wheel, a pawl on the tube causes a plastic or nylon arm to move about 90 degrees. It must be a stop or safety of some sort. I have not dug deep enough to see the shift plate with the two screws. At 75 I find it difficult to lay upside down to reach and hope I can get to them from the top.
Questions:
1. How do I get it out of PARK to check all things on shift tube and gear selector units?
2. Does the battery need to be connected for the interlocks to function?
3. Do I need to drop the column to check on shift tube items?
4. With a rusty trans, can the shift cable to trans connection be the problem?
5. What to look for, how to repair. etc.
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I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
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I was driving home last night and when I stopped at a light in town, I notice the oil pressure dropped and the light came on. So I pulled over and put in park to check my oil. As I put in park the pressure went back up. I dropped it back into gear and it went back down. What could be causing this? I check my oil and it was full. I also notice when I put it in gear and speed up the pressure goes back up and stays there till I slow down again.
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A few weeks ago I bot this truck to have some fun with. 98 F150 4.2l with a lift and some beefy tires. Well something to get me into trouble. On the test drive i never herd anything, mostly because I wasn't ripping it around. I know very little about transmissions, mostly because I never had a problem before.
I have a grinding noise when down shifting into 3rd for either 4 or 5th. It doesn't happen when I am going from 2-3. It also wont happen if i keep the clutch disengaged for a few seconds. It almost like the transmission need time to slow down for a second before shifting.
It also does this going into reverse.
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I have a 99 f150 with 171xxx miles and the other day it suck in second gear and start shaking and misfiring and would stall out. I took the truck and got the codes read and it threw codes for the tcc solenoid and shift solenoid. I put both in the transmission and it kepy doing the same thing. I check fuse 24 under the hood and it was blown, I replaced it and everything worked fine for a day then it blew the fuse 2 more times and i cant figure out why it is blowing that fuse. I cant find any shorts maybe pcm??
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I have a 98 F150, 4.2 V-6, 183,000 miles.. Lately, she's been loping at idle. Especially while in gear... almost stalls. Once revved up, everything seems normal. Still goes up hills fine if I get on the gas. The light was on, and I got codes for lean condition on both banks.. (P0174, P0175).
I already cleaned all the sensors in front of the intake.
The MAF was real dirty, and the IAC was full of soot too.
They both cleaned up nicely, but it didn't work.
I borrowed a fuel pressure gauge yesterday, and it showed 12 psi with the "key on, engine off".
It showed 29-30 @ idle, and only went up to 35 when I revved it a little.
The guy at the store said the range is supposed to be "30-45 psi with the ignition on", but I'm not sure if that means engine running or not..?
Either way, it looks like the pressure is on the low side, so I'm going to change the fuel filter next (and hope for the best).
If the fuel filter doesn't fix it, what should I go after next? And, is there a way to test the fuel pressure regulator before buying a new one?
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I have a 98 f150 4.6 v8. when i start driving and i hit about 40 my truck doesn't want to shift, i have to take my foot off the gas, let it shift then apply the gas again. if i don't it shifts real hard or the RPM's go real high. and then every so often my overdrive off light blinks. it shifts in and out of overdrive ok though.
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I was driving my 1998 Ford F150 the other day and pulled into a driveway. At that time, the transmission quit pulling like I put it in neutral. It shifts from park and goes into reverse but not drive. It has the 4.6L and is 2 wheel drive.
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I've had my 03 VR6 6-speed for 12 years. It's been a second car for the last 5 or so, but regularly used. Friday morning the car got stuck in 3rd gear. The stick will only move from neutral position and down towards 4th gear. I've inspected the short shifter under the hood and the bushings under the shift boot. I did not find anything that diesel geek (the short shifter company) had me check for.
I brought the car into a local shop I have never used before (my usual shop closed), and today they called me saying its a transmission issue. I have not given them permission to open anything up. I am going to take the car home for now.
I have had to repair a broken 1-2 gear fork before. And at that time I had the 3-4 gear for replaced as well.
I should also mention, I similar issues on a quick drive i took the car on the night before. I thought it was just me acclimating to the shifter/lower power of the car as I hadn't driven it for a while. The point is, it drove fine afterwards and it drove fine for a 40 minute city drive to work the next morning.
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I have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
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Woke up this morning and was going to work. Went to unlock my truck and noticed the lights didn't come on inside when I used the remote door unlock. Then I started truck and the tranny lever on the steering column wouldn't go into gear plus the sterring wheel will not lock when the truck is off!
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I have a '97 F150 4x4 with the 5.4L engine and automatic transmission. The tranny's been slipping on and off for a couple of years. It started when it was hot outside, I had been driving a long ways, and I was trompin' on the gas to pass someone. Still, the slips were rare. As it got worse during the hot summer months, I just minimized my long-distance travels.
I recently took it to a transmission mechanic. Like some of the feedback to posts in here, he felt it was a problem with the engine - because we had a bad EGR valve signal on the computer. (We still flushed the fluid. I later replaced the EGR and the DPFE. Another mechanic went through everything, replaced some valves that had something to do with the EGR, and feels the engine is 100% (and it runs very, very smooth). For those that will bring it up - I have replaced all of the coils (though it's been a few years). Having actually replaced some numerous times over the years, I can feel when one is bad (of course, the 'check engine' light as well). Lastly, we've replaced all bulbs in the dash so they are all working as well. Also, the transmission is not leaking. The computer system is giving us no errors/throwing codes.
After a couple of weeks, I happened to drive the truck a long distance one day and it started slipping. It got bad enough that it was slipping every time going from first to second gear. It would usually engage as I took my foot off the gas. Since then, because I haven't driven long distances, I have not had a problem.
The transmission mechanic thinks it's still an engine issue. He also mentioned a mechanical/electrical switch system on the side of the transmission (?). Give me a list of things to look at.
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The problem started with a front seal leak a few months ago which I had no choice but to continue driving with because of low funds. I don't drive much so a couple of quarts of ATF was usually enough to get me out and about for what little driving I had to do. I know.. a front seal is cheap, but I'm partially disabled and unable to work on anything that is not under the hood.
I finally scraped up enough money to hire a friend to replace the seal, but he had a life crisis before completing the work, so I had to get another friend to reinstall the trany... still had the leak, but I could get around by adding ATF as before.
So we tried again... dropped everything and put another new seal on. This stopped the leak, but we got some grinding/squealing noises and could not get the trany to engage any gear.
From reading forum posts and other sources, we decided to replace the TC which we just completed this evening. We got some more of the grinding / squealing noise like before, except that it only occurred the first time we tried cranking the engine, the 2nd time we got no noises, but again no gears engaging.
What to check/replace next assuming there is something we can look at other than a total trany rebuild or replacement. I personally find it hard to believe we could have gone from a tolerably functional trany to scrap metal just replacing a seal and the TC. Its gotta be something simple we overlooked !!
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I have a 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4.6L truck. Recently the transmission got to where it didn't shift properly. Then it got to where, after driving it about 10 to 15 miles the transmission would drop out of gear with the transmission selector in drive.
I have replaced the transmission sensor, the rear end sensor and it still does the same thing. Drive about 10 to 15 miles and, with the transmission selector in drive the truck will not pull. The motor can be rev'ed but the truck won't move just like it was in neutral.
What is wrong. The transmission shifts fine, the truck runs fine, but after 10 to 15 miles the transmission quits working.
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I have a M5OD that I replaced the clutch in in my '99 150 4wd in December . Manual Tranny. Now when taking off in 1st gear the transmission seems to be sliding or shifting backwards, but only in first gear. Got under my truck and looked, can't find any identifying marks to where it might be moving or what is causing this. All frame mounts are tight and the bell housing is flush with the motor. Yes, i did do the clutch change myself in shop class.
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I just bought a 98 f150 about a month ago from someone. The guy i bought it from said the tranny had been rebuilt about 4 months prior and i have the invoice proving it. I have lately noticed a hard shift from first to second gear, all other gears shift perfectly, but on my way from work toady the tranny seemed to slightly slip out of gear(in other words the rpms didn't shoot up, just loss of power) when accelerating from a stop light, and then it seemed to catch and started shifting ok. my question is given these symptoms is it possible that i can make this tranny last a little while longer or is it about to quit? any possible causes?
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