Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Stutter When Slowly Accelerating
Oct 31, 2013
What can cause shutter in 1998 f-150 4.6 4x4 4r70w when slowly accelerating?
View 5 RepliesWhat can cause shutter in 1998 f-150 4.6 4x4 4r70w when slowly accelerating?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4.6L 4x4 Auto and it's having an issue. My truck has recently developed a stutter when accelerating. It feels like a serious misfire and actually pulled a code for a misfire on cylinder 7 (although I haven't been able to get the code to appear again). The plugs are pretty new, I think I only have around 10k miles on them so i figured it might be the coil pack. I bought 2 new coil packs but only one was in stock so i replaced it on the drivers side bank (which controls cylinder 7) and it didn't fix my problem. When I first start the truck and drive it, it isn't very noticeable, but as I drive the truck for a few minutes, the stutter gets more violent. I will replace the other coil pack tomorrow, but I have my doubts it's the problem. It acts just like a bad coil pack.
View 9 RepliesI have 1998 F-150 and the heater core was replaced 18 months ago. All was going well until about 2 weeks ago I noticed under heavy acceleration I would smell antifreeze. The smell would clear up and would not re appear for a day or so. Finally the other day when it was 8 outside I got in the truck and got about 5 miles from the house started up a hill and it was like a fog machine was mounted behind my dash the windows fogged up almost immediately so I figured great the core went bad again. Now the temperature has warmed up the last couple of days and there is nothing no fog in the cab the heater works fine just an occasional slight smell of antifreeze. Before I go through the trouble of tearing out the dash is there anything I should check I already checked the connections on the firewall and they were fine.
View 5 RepliesI have a 98 f-150 4.6L 5spd that has a weird rattling noise coming from what sounds like the engine. The noise will only happen when the truck is in gear and under a load. It will not happen if I keep the RPM's low, unless I am going up a hill. When I rev the truck in neutral, the rattling noise isn't there. Also when I'm driving and hear the ratling noise it will go away when i push the clutch in(which im guessing takes the load off) but will come back when i let out on the clutch. Seems to happen most when I'm in gear and trying to accelerate.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 4.6 2wd regular cab with 255,000 miles on it. Lately it has had some problems. The first is that it will run really rough when under a load, meaning when I step on the gas. It runs smooth at idle and at cruise but when I step on the accelerator it bogs way down and almost shuts off. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Now I'm thinking maybe fuel pump?
The other issue is that when the truck is having to work a little harder (i.e. pulling a trailer or running in the summer with the AC on) it will start to run hot. I have changed the thermostat, flushed the coolant, cleaned out the radiator, etc. and it still does it. Could both of my issues be related to a fuel problem??
I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
View 2 RepliesMy 2003 f150 5.4l has developed a slight stutter when I turn from a stop or go from reverse to drive or vise versa. I had thought it was the IAC so I replaced it but the issue is still there. There are no engine codes and it does not miss fire at idle or while driving. The problem appears to be happening only when the a/c is on. Could the belt be the cause?
View 4 RepliesAs the topic says, I get a slight stutter in the car when I'm say parking into a parking spot. As I get closer to 0 mph i feel the car kinda jerk a little bit.
It's done this since we bought it off a used car lot, and I figured it was the tranny fluid being burned or low. I did a drain/fill twice over the last weekend, and noticed while it has worked forthe issue, it's not fully rectified.
I also notice that 60-80% of the time when LIGHTLY accelerating, going from 1st to 2nd is kinda rough. If i floor it, it's actually pretty smooth.
It doesn't feel like anything "BAD" is happening - no grinding, doesn't feel like slippage...
I have an 1997 F150/4.2 V6/220,000 miles/4x2. During hot weather (over 90F) the engine slowly overheats. While driving on the interstate (from Indy to Fort Wayne), the coolant temperature shows normal on the gauge. Slowly the temperature gauge creeps up to close to the red area. I am running the A/C.
When I switch the heater on and the heater fan at max, the temperature gauge drops pretty quickly to a normal range. I switch off the heater and the A/C back on, then it takes 30 minutes for the temperature gauge to start rising again.
When I open the hood when the gauge shows close to the red area, the upper coolant hose has a lot of pressure (can not squeeze it), which would mean that the thermostat is open and the water pump is working. Also the fan is running fast.
The coolant was changed out a few weeks ago and the coolant level is at normal level when the engine is cold. At lower ambient temperatures, there is no overheating. I am puzzled what the problem can be. I am thinking of a restricted coolant flow.
With the hood open and the hood light bulb pulled out, measured the parasitic draw on their truck? I checked mine because it appears my battery is slowly discharging if the truck sits 3 or 4 days. I got 0.24 amps which seems in line with running the clock memory and the computer. I have a feeling the battery is shot even though it is only 3 years old. When I bought the truck it had a ton of yellow fuzz on the terminals. That is cleaned up and with it running I get about 14.35 volts at idle so it is charging. 0.24 draw??
View 10 RepliesI Have A 2001 F 150 And I Have Just Noticed That On Cold Morning When The Temperature Is Below 35 That My Transmission Takes A While To Shift Into High. Sometime I Am Two To Three Miles Down The Road Before It Will Shift Into The Last High Gear. Is This Normal Or Should I Have This Checked Out? I Have 53,000 Miles On This Truck And Do I Need To Have The Fluil Changed An Serviced.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 SCrew KR F150. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal was slowly going to the floor while at a red light. I pulled over and popped the hood checked the fluid reservoir. It was full, so obviously no wheel cylinder issues or fluid loss. I haven't had a chance to tear into it yet.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 F-150 5.4 Liter 4X4 supercrew with 6" lift and 35" tires. The truck has 123K miles on it. I am the second owner of the truck. In early fall the truck started making what I can only describe as a mild and inconsistent "stutter" upon accelerating between 40-50 MPH. It does not do it all of the time and really depends on the speed at which you accelerate. Sometimes it will happen between 50-55 MPH but primarily it is between 40-50. If you accelerate quickly though at that speed, it rarely ever happens.
Anyways, I changed the fuel filter (pretty sure it was the original as it was nasty and had chunks falling out of it), flushed the fuel injector system at a shop, gassed it up and treated the tank with fuel treatment, and removed the AIRRAID air filter, cleaned it out (blew out with air, flushed with water, dried and re-oiled it). The truck had A LOT more power behind it, my fuel mileage increased and for about a day, this stuttering did not occur. It has now started up again.
My question is whether or not this could be caused by old spark plugs or is it a transmission issue? The truck runs great otherwise. We've looked at the plugs and they appear to be the original plugs. I bought the truck with about 100K on it and have put the rest of the miles on myself. I'm trying to figure out if it is an issue with the plugs or if it is related to the automatic transmission as I'm sure the fluid hasn't been changed in it either. I know I'm going to have to do both but want to know what is more likely the issue at hand.
Have a '02 f150 and thinking the heater core slowly dieing. Have noticed for several weeks a nice line of water leaking onto the passenger side floor. Do you have to take off the entire dash to get to it? Will be doing replacement myself as the dealer or shop would probably kill me on labor.
View 12 RepliesHere is the critical info...1999 F-150 2wd supercab, 4.6 litre, Automatic, 138,000 mi
Recently, I had the upper control arms, upper ball joints, and lower ball joints replaced. They also did an alignment. Since then, the truck has had what seems to be a rough, jiggly ride. I can feel every little imperfection in the road, even when moving very slowly. I've also noticed that my doors sometimes rattle now (they didn't before the work was done). On the highway, sometimes it seems that a tire will get into a bouncing condition which can continue for quit awhile. It is also harder to keep the truck centered in the lane.
I went back to the same place that did the work and told them to double check everything, (which they did, found nothing wrong).
To try to fix this, I have...
replaced the shocks (new ones are bilstein)
balanced the tires
rotated the tires
checked air pressure (32 psi)
I don't know if the following facts have anything to do with anything, but... When I look at the upper control arm attachment points, there is a metal plate that is (I'm told) to keep the camber in the factory setting. This plate was removed on one side to adjust the camber away from the factory setting. Also, I don't see how the castor is controlled? Is there an adjustment for that. Can castor be to blame for any of this? Can cheap parts (control arm, ball joints) be to blame?
I have a 2001 ford f150 4x4 xlt and it seems to be shaking violently in first gear when I try to release the clutch slowly. The person i bought it from said he had a new clutch put in this year So i don't think its the clutch. What could be the cause of it before I take it in to be checked.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 F-150 4x4 with cruise control and 4-wheel disc. When I am at a stop light for a while, when holding the brakes, the pedal slowly begins to fade towards the floorboard. I have replace two master cylinders, the original and a reman and then put on a new Motorcraft one...all providing the same problem. I have been told by dealerships that it is my imagination or that this is a "normal" problem. Having my truck roll at a stop light while the brakes are applied is not normal.
View 8 RepliesThe facts: 98 rangers 4.0 4x4 177k
The issue: does the dreaded shudder start, check engine light is on saying lean bank 1 bank 2.
Fixes so far: have replaced every gasket intake base up, a lot of new sensors on the intake. All 3 of the 02 sensors new. Have not touched egr. Thoroughly inspected plenum and intake hose for cracks, no Pitts in the intake.
It's a NEBRASKA truck with zero rust. Thought maybe fuel pump might cause all these issues, however, the turn the key twice trick before starting makes no difference, and I can hear the pump turn on each time I turn the key.
I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
View 4 RepliesIve got a 2000 4x4 F-150 with a 4.6 and a 4r70w. The transmission and transfercase were replaced by the P.O aprox 2,000 miles before i bought it..
i was driving it today, and while accelerating it missed a shift into 3rd, then nothing no forward or reverse, i sat and messed with the gears for a while then suddenly it shifted into 1st now it drives with a slight resistance, revs up to about 3K before shifting and shifts HARD up and down, and i cannot get over 40 mph its at about 2800 rpms and feels like im hitting a rev limiter wont shift again and wont accelerate anymore..
When at that speed I hit the OD off and it downshifts so i think i still have od?
2002 F-150 4.2L. About a year ago, it threw the P0171 and 0174 codes up. After replacing all the simple stuff, I bit the bullet and replaced the lower intake gasket as well as the upper intake gaskets. Buttoned it all up, reset the codes and we were back in business. No issues, truck ran good. About 6-8 months later, the check engine light came back on, I check it and it was that pesky set of codes again, 0171 and 0174.
It still ran fine, but the codes were there, so I just drove it for a while (it's a company truck that doesn't get driven that much).
A couple of weeks ago while driving it, it acted very sluggish. You could mash the accelerator and it would just very slowly run up the speed. It never hesitated or missed, it just got very very sluggish. Checked the codes, no additional codes.
Then it began to stumble when you mashed the gas.
I put new plugs (old one's looked great, other than a huge gap), new wires, new coil pack and started it. Pushed the gas pedal, it just dies.
I look for obvious vacuum leaks and replace a couple of elbows for the PCV and it seems to run a little better. Enough so that I can drive it, but still not running right.
I ordered all the intake gaskets and new isolator bolts and spend Saturday pulling that apart. I didn't do the lower intake because the upper intake gaskets looked so good, I just don't believe this is a intake gasket problem. None the less, I installed the new gaskets on the plenum and upper intake, new isolator bolts, replaced a couple pieces of vacuum hose that looked cracked, started it back up, it ran as smooth as silk.
Convinced I had it fixed, I went for a test drive. Idling, it is as smooth as you could ask for. Pull up to a stop sign, wait, step on the gas and it chokes. Just stumbles and you can hear it almost backfiring and pushing air back through the system.
I've put new PCV, new EGR, new vacuum lines in several places, new upper intake gaskets, new plenum gaskets, new isolator bolts, and even new o-rings on the injectors, and I'm still getting the 0171 and 0174 codes.
With the diagnostics on, I can see voltage varying on all O2 sensors, so I assume they are working (none of them are reading 0 volts). It doesn't throw any other code up, other than the 0171 and 0174.
At this point I feel like I'm replaced every single thing ever mentioned in any 0171 and 0174 thread on the internet. Where to go next? 1 more point, if you very slowly push the gas, it runs fine, but any pressure on it, it bogs down and just stumbles.