Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Shocks For Soft Ride
Jul 3, 2014
I have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab Long Bed that still has the original shocks which are in need of replacing. What shocks I should get that would provide a soft ride?
View 14 RepliesI have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab Long Bed that still has the original shocks which are in need of replacing. What shocks I should get that would provide a soft ride?
View 14 RepliesI need to replace the shocks and springs in my truck. I would like a stiffer ride something that doesn't bounce to much and offers better handling.
I have a 2004 4X4 Diesel Excursion
I bought this truck with only 15k miles and the ride is like riding in a low rider really bad every bump feels like there is no shocks. I rode in a rental truck 2010 F 150 and it was like going from a softail to a hard tail night and day.
It has always rode like this since I bought it I chalked it up to the wheels (22in) being so big. The wheels are the factory Harley Davidson 22in with brand new tires as of yesterday.
I want to know the best and cheapest way to get the best ride possible. Also maybe a ball park of how much this will cost I can not do the work so I will have to pay or wait till spring to do it myself.
Also wanted to explore air ride if it didnt cost way to much.
It is about time to replace the shocks on my truck but I am going back and forth between shocks... I have 37s and the ride is rough to say the least I am looking for something to make it feel like I am not riding around on a jack hammer every time I hit a rock.
Dual set up in the front and single in the back and I have steering stabilizers installed.
What is the degree of difficulty in replacing the rear shocks on a 2WD 2002 F150?
View 14 RepliesMy son just bought a 97 F150 with the back brakes blocked off. The front brakes had about full pedal when the was on. We changed the front calipers and brake pads. Bled them came back with great brakes (with back brakes blocked).
Then we found out the back calipers was none so we bought all new parts for both back brakes, found some leaks in the rear lines fixed them. Now we bled the brakes with the motor off till no air came out. Solid pedal. Then turned on the motor and the pedal goes down 3/4 of the way now easy.
Stops on snow good no tire sliding. Turn off the motor has solid pedal again.
I have a 2000 f150 xlt 4x4 with a 6" suspension lift. Recently Ive had some front end noise, so after swapping out a lower ball joint and the sway bar links, i still have the pop. It only happens when at a stop or slowly moving and i turn to the right and accelerate. It sounds like its coming from the front drivers side. I have wiggled everything in the front end and everything is very tight. The only loose things i can find are:
1) Bottoms of shocks can be wiggled back and forth, both sides do this.
2) driveshaft leading to the front end has a lot of play, but I don't believe that's relevant since its not used when I am in 2wd.
I already have sport Eibach springs and my shocks and struts are about to go, but this gives me an opportunity I can either go coilovers or all sport suspension. I want to go a little lower though than what its sitting at now, especially when I put my 18x8 wheels on. I definitely want to go static, air ride is too much. So I was wondering if I went with the blistein sport shocks and struts with the sprt eibach springs would it sit lower?
View 14 RepliesThe car was purchased used with 18" wheels already on. After driving for about 6 months, I started noticing the road noise getting very loud. I took the car to a tire shop and they told me that there was some uneven cupping in the middle of the wheels, which is usually caused by worn out shocks making the wheel bounce up and down.
I replaced all 4 shocks, then replaced all 4 tires. Now its much more smooth than before, and is very silent on nicely paved roads. however, I notice when there's roads which any imperfections (like fixed streets with tar.. or uneven pavements, or when your tire hits the freeway markers to keep you in the lane) its heard very loud from inside the car and creates an almost *thud* sound when it does.
I assumed that the problem was that the car had 18" wheels. So recently I swapped the wheels out with stock 15" from Toyota, but somehow the road noise is still very apparent. I sat in a friend's Prius, same year, and I could tell that it was handling the uneven pavements much softer.
What could be the problem now? Is there anything else that needs to be replaced?
I just joined as I bought my '97 F-150 5.4 4X4 about 3 months ago. The dealer gave me a 6 month warranty but hasn't honored it at all and I've had one problem after another. That's another story though but right now I'm just trying to fix the important issues. The problem at hand are my brakes.
I was noticing a couple days ago (maybe I never noticed it that much as it was a new vehicle to me) that when I apply the brakes it sounds like a bicycle pump and the pedal travels nearly all the way down. It doesn't hit the firewall but I'd probably guess it has 3 more inches or less until it bottoms out. The hissing only occurs as the pedal travels and stops when the brake pedal isn't moving.
Now I'm not sure if the hissing sound is normal as I replaced the brake booster (from the junkyard though) and the new one still hisses when I apply brakes. The brakes seem to work okay, could be more sensitive it's just the pedal feels soft until it almost bottoms out like I stated before and the the brakes grab a little bit harder. What could it be?
I recently traded in my old 95 ES 300 for a 2013 ES 300H. I prefer the ride quality of the older model. I realize that many people prefer the new ride quality, but I don't. I have Michelin tires, and I have reduced the pressure to about 29 PSI, which worked, but I'd like to soften the ride more. Is it possible to adjust the suspension or shocks to make the ride softer?
View 10 RepliesI'm working on my 99 f-150. I replaced all my spark plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 3 reading on the scanner. The truck was running ok but two weeks later it started to ride rough again I checked the scanner and got the same reading for a misfire on cylinder 3. Why its giving me the same misfire again? Could my injector cause that misfire? What about the egr valve?
View 8 RepliesHere is the critical info...1999 F-150 2wd supercab, 4.6 litre, Automatic, 138,000 mi
Recently, I had the upper control arms, upper ball joints, and lower ball joints replaced. They also did an alignment. Since then, the truck has had what seems to be a rough, jiggly ride. I can feel every little imperfection in the road, even when moving very slowly. I've also noticed that my doors sometimes rattle now (they didn't before the work was done). On the highway, sometimes it seems that a tire will get into a bouncing condition which can continue for quit awhile. It is also harder to keep the truck centered in the lane.
I went back to the same place that did the work and told them to double check everything, (which they did, found nothing wrong).
To try to fix this, I have...
replaced the shocks (new ones are bilstein)
balanced the tires
rotated the tires
checked air pressure (32 psi)
I don't know if the following facts have anything to do with anything, but... When I look at the upper control arm attachment points, there is a metal plate that is (I'm told) to keep the camber in the factory setting. This plate was removed on one side to adjust the camber away from the factory setting. Also, I don't see how the castor is controlled? Is there an adjustment for that. Can castor be to blame for any of this? Can cheap parts (control arm, ball joints) be to blame?
I just bought a 1998 Tacoma v6 SR5 TRD excab with 112k miles. I'm having trouble figuring out why the suspension on my truck is so soft and even dangerously unstable when driving at highway speeds. Is it my shocks?
When I hit a bump on the highway, 65-75mph, it rocks side to side really bad. But at lower speeds it takes bumps very good almost like a Cadillac. It has Monrore sensatrac shocks at all four corners, so I figure they are not stock. Do you think I have the wrong shocks on it? it doesn't sag at all so I doubt the springs are worn out at 112k.
I'm a fairly new owner, and the 89 gt I just bought came in very good shape. Yesterday the manual clutch just went completely soft. I felt this for about a week when I first purchased it, but only in first gear and it worked itself out and hadn't recurred since then. Now the clutch will not disengage. Gears move well when the car is off though. I noticed the clutch fluid was totally empty when I looked under the hood yesterday. Is this indicative of a bad master or slave cylinder? Or do I just need to bleed and refill the fluid? I love driving this car and want to again soon.
View 1 RepliesI got a 97 aerostar from my parents. Front Shocks are done for (seals leaking). Any good brands? Does one just unbolt and replace shocks or do they have the mcpherson strut assemblies. It only has 48,000 miles on it. No rust and pretty good condition overall.
View 10 RepliesI am having a problem with my 1998 F150 4x4. The 4WD is not engaging. It is a manual shift. I have checked the transfer case by turning the drive shaft in 2WD it is free. When I shift into 4WD it is does not spin freely. So I believe that is OK. I have checked the vaccum diaphram. It will move the piston when I attach a hose and pull vacuum on the inboard hose barb. So I believe the diaphram it self is OK. I am not sure if the hoses and selenoids are OK. They look fine. However there is a constant vacuum on the inboard hose line (red/pink color) wether I am in 4WD or not. Is this OK? How can I check the selenoids. If all this is OK, the next thing I believ it could be is the shift fork in the differential. Is that a difficult job? Do you need to pull the whole axle out to replace it?
View 14 RepliesJust bough a '98 F150, 4.6L; drove it home and it ran great, lots of impressive power etc... Parked it my shop and getting it ready for safety check so I can register it. All I did was change the oil, oil filter and air filter.
Couple weeks have gone by, I went to start it and it does start & idles beautiful but it will not rev. I give it gas and it's like it's choking / wants to die. The signal lights are flashing super fast which I don't recall doing before. Battery wasn't holding charge so I installed a new one tonight; no difference. Alternator is good.
I have not checked the plugs yet because I don't think that would be the cause of an overnight change from running excellent to what it is now but I will check them.
I have a 98 f150 4wd with manual shift on floor (msof) and the 4wd will not engage. I've done research and I've learned quite a bit but still have an issue. In All the research I've done I have learned about
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 f-150 4x4 the abs light is on and I can't link with scanner or seem to find anything wrong I don't have front abs just rear. I hate lights and I've checked everything I can think of.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 4.6 that has a misfire with no CEL. I have already tried the following: checked fuel pressure, change cam shaft sensors, changed coil, checked MAf seems ok, spark plugs and wires. On my scan tool it wont show any misfires when obviously its misfiring. When driving it will run good for about 10 seconds and then misses for about 10 seconds and it just keep going in this loop.
View 8 Replies