Removing 4.6 triton from 1998 F-150. Is there a way to remove the top 2 screws connecting the engine to the bell housing without removing the intake manifold? Although I don't mind removing the intake, I am doing a 4.6 to 5.4 swap and would rather attach the intake prior to putting the 5.4L back in. Figuring if I cant get it out that way though, I wont be able to put it back that way.
View 4 RepliesOnly when running heat or defrost, coolant leak looks like it's coming out of the bell housing. I have a supercharger so very difficult to see behind motor, but with inspection camera, heater hose lines look dry. firewall looks dry. No coolant in cab. No steam on windows or smell. Pretty sure not casting/ freeze plugs because absolutely no leaking with heat off. Can run for days with no loss, then turn on heat and within minutes/ seconds coolant puddling in driveway. Is the hose that runs through valley pressurized only when heat is on? I saw a few older threads but as far as I could tell none specified heat on/ heat off conditions. Just started problem after doing some other work, hoses were off radiator and intercooler, replaced radiator. None of those connections are the culprit.
98 F150 Lariat 1900 TVS S/C Chiller Killer I/C 19PSI Snow performance WMI
I have a 2003 F-150 4.6 4X4. I had a knocking sound that sounded like a rod knocking but was coming from the bell housing. After some research, I found that it could be a cracked flex plate or bad torque converter. I bought and installed a new torque converter with no change. The flex plate didn't appear to have any damage but went ahead and replaced it with the same results. I actually started the engine by jumping the starter (with no transmission) and the sound was coming from the flex plate/dust cover. My question is do I need the dust cover? Or is it a bearing or something else inside the engine causing the flex plate to hit the dust cover?
View 3 RepliesI changed the oil on my '98 Ranger 4.0L V6 yesterday and noticed a little bit of coolant on the bottom of the bell housing. It wasn't much (yet), but it was trickling down from above on the driver's side. I couldn't see clearly behind the engine on top without removing some stuff, but I could see where it looked like it was dripping onto the bell housing, ca.3/4 of the way up on the driver's side. Where the leak may be and how to fix it? As I said, it's only a couple drops now, but I'd like to nip it in the bud.
View 4 RepliesI have a coolant leak somewhere on the top of the engine running down to the oil pan and bell housing. I have done some research and discovered it could be the coolant inlet tube to the turbo.
View 14 RepliesI am having trouble finding an oil leak on my truck. the oil is coming out of the weep hole on the bottom of the bell housing where the cover over the torque converter is. There is no oil in the front of the valley under the fuel bowl/hpop. But there is a small puddle in the rear of the valley. I have changed all the turbo pedestal orings. Maybe the ebpv rod? But i cant see it leaking from there so im not sure where its coming from. Also have to do the front main as is leaks a little onto my lower radiator hose. How difficult are those?
View 7 RepliesGetting a chirping noise coming from (i think) the bell housing. a few small chirps at start up, then constant after about 1300rpm, eventually gets high enough and drowns out behind the exhaust that i cant hear it.
Possible flywheel issue? I've uploaded a video to try and illustrate the issue. 1996 ford explorer XLT 4.0.
Just replaced starter a few weeks ago, but this problem was happening before. I dont know if it was as prominent and got worse, or if im just now noticing it and focusing on it.
1996 Ford Explorer bell housing chirp. Flywheel? - YouTube
So I have a bit of an oil leak, bell housing drips once or twice while it is parked for a day or so and usually has a drip hanging off of it. Where the starter mounts also has some oil and there is some of the driver side. The valley is totally dry and I have new CAC boots so it isn't coming from up there. When I look through the inspection port it doesn't look like it is from the rear main. I figure this leaves either bedplate or cam/crank sensor. Any thoughts on how to narrow it down further? Maybe put dye in the oil? It looks somewhat oily up by the cam sensor but it is so hard to see that thing I can't tell very well.
View 10 RepliesDaughters 94 f150 4.9L 204K miles e40d started leaking transmission fluid from the bell housing, so she parked it for 2 years...Now I have been nominated to fix it... Truck was running good when parked. Got it started (Just charged battery and started it up), and backed it up. Reverse is good and solid. When I tried to move it, it wouldn't move in drive. Starts to engage, then drops out. Pulled into first, and the truck moves, but have to have high rpm.
Replaced tc seal, filter and fluid, (12 quarts). No change... Ran it down the road, had to start off in first, good power up to about 35, shifted to second, it shifted...ran up to 45, then shifted into drive, it shifted, and maintained power. Had to slow so stopped and turned around, tried moving out in drive, and it just kept dropping out. Returned home as I left...read a lot of this forum, and learned some but not enough..
Pulled codes 327,116,536,538. No transmission codes.
The same day that I noticed my coolant temp was running high as I was driving around in my 2011, i was driving around in my corn field cutting wood and i noticed i was dragging something under the truck. when i got out and looked under the truck, there was coolant running down all over the bell housing and oil pan. i was a bit worried that it was my head gaskets leaking but once i got it in the shop and looked at the heads, all looked good. i wasnt sure where it was coming from! so i looked up common coolant leaks on the 6.7 on youtube.
First video was one of the coolant line on the turbo leaking. so i crawled up on top and shoved a mirror down by the turbo and sure enough i could see coolant leaking around the connector fitting coming out of the turbo. apparently the gasket goes bad around this fitting allowing it to leak. i was just wondering if this is really that common of an issue? I did the work myself. and its not really that hard to get to the turbo, its just time consuming removing all the crap around it. all i had to do was remove some connectors that were attached to the plastic intake and remove the intake then you can reach into that fitting. total time was around 2.5 hours.
My '96 ranger, 4.0, auto transmission has developed a coolant leak. It is at the rear of the engine, passenger side, at or just above the bell housing. I can't quite see where it is leaking from even using an inspection mirror from on top or underneath. The engine runs great. I just finished replacing the power steering pump, ac compressor, dryer and hoses. What is back there? Freeze plug? Do I fear the worst and that the head or block warped? I may drill a hole from the passenger compartment to try and get a better view.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1990 F-150 w/351 that I knew had a coolant leak at the back of the engine when I bought. It's a tinker around truck, something for me to play with.
I've traced the leak back to a metal tube/pipe that sticks out of the engine compartment just below the AC housing. I cannot find anything in the Haynes manual or a diagram on the intertron that shows what this is and if it should have a hose on it or...?
A little background info...up until about 6 months ago my 01 Ex V10 was a grocery getter for the wife; only got a few thousand miles a year for the most part. Since we moved from Washington state to Texas it has turned into my daily driver (after a 2500 mile drive towing 8k trailer).
A couple of weeks ago we were running errands and after we got home there was smoke coming from under the hood, but I couldn't pin point it. I let it be because I figure it would let me know when something was really wrong. A few days later it did it again but this time I found the problem; transmission fluid was leaking out of the bell housing onto the y-pipe. I did my research and come to find out it is most likely the front pump seal that got soft from overheating. So my buddy and I drop the transmission and replace the seal. Put it all back together and everything seems great.
Another week goes by and we have driven the Ex fairly extensively around town and even took a couple short day trips and everything is great. Then as we are turning onto an on ramp to get on the highway I give it gas to speed up and all of a sudden the RPMs climb like it dropped into neutral. I had enough momentum that I got over onto the shoulder and started to check thing under the hood. Looked like I was low on trans fluid; ok so I added a quart. Put it in "D" and still nothing. Then I try "1", "2", "R" and they all work fine.
Came out of a turn, went to grab third, clutch went to the floor and didn't come back. Stopped, pumped pedal for a bit, managed to get into first and milked it home. There's nothing leaking, but fluid level was low. I topped fluid, pumped pedal and bled the block at the tranny, pressure came up and I was able to engage gears. Pulled into garage and same issue, no pressure and clutch won't disengage. Pedal is soft. I'm thinking I managed to get some air in the system. Question is if the slave failed, wouldn't I have a leak at the bell housing?
Do I have to drop the tranny to bleed the slave? Also, my stock clutch on APR stage 1 was doing ok before this issue. There was chatter and/or other noises in the clutch at take off but no real issue with slipping. I'm thinking I'll go ahead and replace the clutch. I'll be dropping the trans on a rack in my friends shop.
I have a motor oil leak on a 1991 Chevrolet S10 pickup, 2WD, 2.8L, manual transmission.
The leak is around the bell housing area. The oil covers the bell housing and the transmission.
I think it is either the rear main seal or the back of the oil pan gasket. But how can I know for sure? It is difficult to see the back of the oil pan.
Would the oil INSIDE the bell housing be proof positive that it is the rear main seal? I have not looked inside yet.
New to me truck has 80k on it, it's leaking at the bell housing. Pulled the inspection plate and it's definitely red stinky automatic transmission fluid. Back of the torque converter is clean.
Ford warranty has run out, however I do have an aftermarket warranty on the truck. Trans temp isn't above normal or running hot.
I'm a very mechanically inclined engineer, I do not work on cars for a living, but I have replaced an input shaft seal on a 4wd transmission before. That's my best guess as to what's leaking. Is this a common issue?
Noticed a small oil spot on my drive way where i park my truck the other day. Got up underneath and saw it was leaking from a rectangular rubber grommet on the front of the transmission bell housing.
What could be causing this? Have heard a few different things, turbo line leak, turbo pedistals, HPOP leak. Seeing what Super Duty Nation thought of the problem. Going to the dealer sometime this week.
My aunt has a 1998 F150 with the 4.6 V8. with only 40,000 miles.
Two years ago when she tried to leave work the truck would not start, it would crank over, but it would not start. She had the truck towed home and we figured out it was her fuel pump went bad. She did not have the money at the time to fix it, so she let it set and drover her nissan around.
I know after sitting for a few years the piston rings will stake (rust) to the cylinder walls. Usually take the plugs out, and pour in some oil, PB blaster,etc....and let it sit for a day or so, then turn the motor by hand to free it up.
Well She decided to get it fixed finally, and had it towed to the local ford dealer after sitting in her driveway for two years. Ford calls her later in the day and tells her the battery is dead and wont hold a charge, and the engine is siezed/locked up. They tell her it needs a brand new engine and could cost $5000. + after all is said and done.
She calls me asking what she should do. I told her BS! it only has 40,000 miles, and it does not need a new engine. It just needs to be broke free from sitting. I told her to have it towed to my house and I will fix it.
So today she had the tow truck bring it out to me. Tow truck driver tells me that ford said it has a bad fuel pump ( we knew) and that the motor has a spun main bearing in the motor..and asks me if I was going to rebuild the engine.
I tell him the story on the truck and he shook his head..and said yea..Ford is Full of it! I call my aunt and tell her what the tow truck driver told me, so she calls Ford..and asks what they did to the truck? Ford said, the truck has a dead battery, bad fuel pump and a spun bearing. She asked them how do they know it was a bearing?
Ford said they got the truck to run but the engine made a horrible noise like a bad /spun bearing inside.
I asked her, how did they get the truck to run with no gas/no fuel pressure if the fuel pump is out? The only way they could is with spraying Starting fluid ( ETHER) into the motor and fuel injection motors HATE that..they will run like total crap...
Bang, etc. because none of the sensors are working correctly..and makes the computer go OH CRAP. It's the end of the world!
If they (ford service) broke the motor free..I wonder how bad they did it. Did they FORCE it and break something internal ( bent a rod, wrist pin..)? I can't prove it, if they did.
So the truck is at my house and I am going to check it out. I am still going to pull the plugs and put oil inside, turn the motor by hand to make sure it is not locked up or messed up internally from them "working" on it.
I have never heard of a bearing going bad by just sitting. I have never worked on a 4.6 mod motor..and I know nothing about how good or bad they are... but I am soon to find out!
I have a 1998 f150 4x4 with a 4.6 triton vin #w and only 150,000 miles but its smoking. On first start up everything is good to go but when the engine reaches operating temperatures it will smoke.
It does not smoke all the time, just on takeoff. Such as after taking off after sitting at a red light it will puff a cloud of smoke from both sides of the engine. The engine is smoking blue so I know its oil its burning.
I pulled the valve covers off last week and the engine is clean, no sludge or gum. Power is good, runs good, and has good compression. Why its smoking.
I have a 98 F150, 4.6L with approx. 245,000 miles on it. recently it started, then studdered a little bit and died. I managed to get it re-started, it then shuddered a little more although I was able to drive it back up the drive way and park it. Now, it will crank however it does not even attempt to fire. The sound that it makes when trying to start seems odd to me. Like the engine is just turning against a constant resistance instead of the normal starting sound. I tried shooting a little starter fluid into the throttle body and nothing changed. I pressed on the shrader valve and got a spew of fuel to come out so it seems that it might not be a fuel problem though it sure sounds like one. Just curious, what are the symptoms of a truck with no compression?
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 f-150 4.6L 5spd that has a weird rattling noise coming from what sounds like the engine. The noise will only happen when the truck is in gear and under a load. It will not happen if I keep the RPM's low, unless I am going up a hill. When I rev the truck in neutral, the rattling noise isn't there. Also when I'm driving and hear the ratling noise it will go away when i push the clutch in(which im guessing takes the load off) but will come back when i let out on the clutch. Seems to happen most when I'm in gear and trying to accelerate.
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