Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Motor Shut Down / No Start
Dec 12, 2013
Vehicle is stranded on the side of the road (safely) and here's what happened. Driving (normal) 1/4 mile away from the house, motor shut down. Pulled off, tried restart. Motor turns over normally and all gauges work (temp/oil/volt). The only weird thing is that the O/D light on the end of the shift selector stays on even after pushing it on and off. I plugged in my OBDII reader and it will not link with the system. Yes... the ignition is on Is this indicative of a fuel, computer, electrical issue? or all the above. Worst case scenario is i have it towed to the shop tomorrow and they diag it. I don't have the proper tools to diag this.
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
I can cold start my 98 f150 with the 4.2 and it runs fine. After you drive it for a while and turn it off and try to restart it, it starts then dies, it will do this until you rev up the motor to keep it running. I have to drop in gear and get going down the road and then it smooths out and runs fine. I had a mech check the fuel pressure at the rail and it was 19 psi. The book says it is suppose to be 35psi. He said my fuel pump was bad. I installed a fuel pump and it is still doing the same thing yet. What to check now?
View 14 Replies
Got a buddy with a 98 white f150 with the 5.4 motor. It will start up and idle fine but if you try to drive it it has no power what so ever. What it could be?
View 2 Replies
1998 F150 4x4 4.2 ... Small leak spraying out of a steel pipe onto the front of the motor. This isn't my truck so I'm not very familiar with it but looks like there is a pipe that come from the water pump threw a bracket and y's and one end has a hose going to heater core n the other part is where the leak is I think it has a hose connected to it that goes to the intake. Only leaks when thermostat open. I'm going to take it apart tonight n see what I find. Iv looked for a replacement part and found nothing so I am going to try n replace the steel pipe with hose.
View 4 Replies
I am fairly new to powerstrokes, but have a general understanding how the 7.3l operates, and how the fuel system works.
The problem i am experiencing is a crank, no start. The truck has been great for the year and a half that i have owned it. Always cranked great and never any starting or running issues. One day upon cranking, i started the motor; it started normal running good for a minute until the motor suddenly started shuttering and then the motor shut off, happened rather quickly. The truck started up immediately after that and died....repeating the shutter until dead. Now the truck will not start.
Specs on truck:
2002 7.3l
230,000 miles
Manual transmission
Here's what i have replaced so far:
New parts include:
IPR (motorcraft)
ICP (motorcraft)
EBPV (napa)
CPS (napa)
IDM (reman)
Here are some of the diagnostic values i have collected during cranking: (FYI: i am a little confused on what the values mean and what they should be in order for the motor to start):
ICP: 2218 psi
ICP duty cycle: 41%
EBP: 265 kpa
battery voltage: 12.0
Rpm: 355
Things i have checked so far:
Oil is new and level is good.
WTS light cycles as normal.
Fuel bowl is full and over flows with cap off while cranking.
Fuel tank is above half.
Glow plug relay is good.
I was throwing a code for the PCM, but i removed the bully dog tuner and the code has since cleared.
HPOP oil is an inch below full.
I made a gauge set and dead headed HPOP yielding 1500psi.
Upon cranking i am seeing some smoke, i guess, but its kind of hard to tell from the drivers seat.
This is where i am at so far. I don't have a way to buzz test the injectors or tell if they are leaking past the orings. I have the valve covers removed, but i have been putting off pulling the injectors to replace the orings.
View 14 Replies
This 97 F150 4.2 is new to me, originally a very base 2wd white fleet vehicle, with 189,000 miles, runs smoothly and quietly, idles well, transmission shifts smoothly. Gets reasonable gas mileage.
Problem statement: the truck has an intermittent starting problem. The failure to start happens about 5-10% of the time. The motor will turn over fine, but but immediately stumbles while trying to start. Turn key off and then re-start attempt will be again followed by a bucking stumble. Some times the motor might try and run for 2-3 seconds bucking and stumbling. It is possible the problem happens more often when the truck is warm and has been shut off for 15 minutes or so. Once the problem happens it is very repeatable. It won't start again unless I wait about 30 minutes to an hour. Once it starts it seems to run very nicely. I have noticed some times when I go to successfully start the truck it might run roughly for the first 3-4 seconds bucking and sputtering a bit and then smooth out and not have an issue until the next re-start attempt.
The truck runs so nicely when it is running I doubt it is an issue with the plugs, air filter general tune up. Could it be an intermittent fuel pump issue? The next time it occurs I will check fuel pressure. Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Also tested by fuel pressure. ECU? The truck runs very nicely most of time that seems like a long shot. Crank sensor? Bad fuel? I did add some dry gas.
View 14 Replies
I have a 1998 JGC. 4.0L motor. Driving it around town the motor would just shut off. Used to do it once in a while....then started happening more and more. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor....thinking maybe it needed a tuneup. Sometimes it restarted right away (right after it quit). Sometimes it wouldn't start until the next day.
So two days ago, daughter was driving it home from work and the motor just quit again. This time it will not restart. Motor cranks over fine. I read on this forum that this is a sign of a bad CPS....although a bad CPS will usually allow you to drive home eventually. So I replaced the CPS. Cranked it over....no change. Now, to check for spark and fuel. I turn on the ignition...I hear the fuel pump in the tank going. Then I pull the coil wire (brand new since I replaced all wires)...and put a spark plug on it....crank the motor....and NO spark. I then pull the wire harness that feeds the coil. It's a 2-prong plug. I turn on the key and nothing showing on the voltmeter.
I then put the volt meter on the battery and it reads fine. So I follow the coil harness connector back...and it just goes into the main engine harness. I then put the OBDII reader to the port in the Jeep and turned on the ignition. I get "Link Error".....so it's not getting a read, but the cigarette light is working...so the port is fine. So no spark to the coil harness and the Link Error does this mean a bad ECM (computer)? Also note that the fuel gauge (and maybe other gauges) are not registering when the ignition is turned on. The check engine light is not on. Maybe security system? I thought a security system failure would turn off spark AND fuel....but I hear the fuel pump running.
View 6 Replies
I have a 98 F150, 4.6L with approx. 245,000 miles on it. recently it started, then studdered a little bit and died. I managed to get it re-started, it then shuddered a little more although I was able to drive it back up the drive way and park it. Now, it will crank however it does not even attempt to fire. The sound that it makes when trying to start seems odd to me. Like the engine is just turning against a constant resistance instead of the normal starting sound. I tried shooting a little starter fluid into the throttle body and nothing changed. I pressed on the shrader valve and got a spew of fuel to come out so it seems that it might not be a fuel problem though it sure sounds like one. Just curious, what are the symptoms of a truck with no compression?
View 4 Replies
I only see it on start up, after it starts I don't see blue smoke or smell it could this be valve guide seals? If so are they hard to change? This truck has 168000 miles on it and has a 4.6 engine.
View 3 Replies
1998 F150 with 4.6L Windsor SOHC. I just completely rebuilt the engine including pistons, rings, timing chains (timing is good; compression @ 180 psi), 2 new coils, wires, plugs etc. and there's no fire at the plugs when I crank it. It turns over good but doesn't start. The fuel pump comes on and there's fuel up to the injectors. Before I disassembled the engine, it still ran good except for one piston. The 2 new coils, wires, plugs were replace before I rebuilt it. I was very thorough when re-installing the electrical etc... and triple checked it all after the engine not firing. Fuses are good. I know it's hard to trouble shoot without seeing the truck? The battery has been disconnected for months as I started a long time ago. Computer maybe?
View 6 Replies
I have a 1998 F150, had this truck for just shy of 200,000 miles, never a major problem and now she's killing me. Turn the key, no crank,no start, the same time this started the radio also quit working. I can start her with a screw driver at the soleniod (new by the way) runs perfect after that. By the way it's a 2 wheel drive with the 4.6 v-8
View 1 Replies
I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
View 6 Replies
I have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
View 3 Replies
I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
View 3 Replies
I have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
View 5 Replies
I have a 1998 F-150 V8 4.6L. Currently has about 83000 miles. I have had this problem twice now. When I park on an incline with the front up hill the engine will not start. It will crank like it is trying to start, but it sounds like its not getting enough fuel. Both times my tank has been nearly full or 3/4 full. Just put on a new fuel filter and the old one was still clean. ( I could blow through it with ease). I think it is the fuel pump.
View 1 Replies
My 4.2L died all of a sudden, it cranks but won't start. Checked the harness side to coil packs, pos. signal but no neg. Tried a code reader keeps coming back link error. Does this mean PCM is fried?
View 4 Replies
A few days ago the head lights and all inside lights would flicker and go off for a second or two while I was driving at highway speed. Thee flickering stopped when I slowed down. Yesterday the car would not start at all. The motor is turning over but not catching. Also only the radio work but not the sound system. I put in a new hi-output alternator but the car still will not start. The car has 155,000 miles and generally runs well. How to repair this?
View 3 Replies
My ranger decided to start leaking fuel somewhere probably a few weeks ago. I can smell it whenever I start the motor, and sometimes while driving with the windows down. Last night, I finally looked into the problem. I took the intake air hose off. The hose, air filter, and whole intake smells like gas. I'm thinking that shouldn't be the case on a fuel injected engine. After seeing some people talk about the Fuel Pressure Regulator go bad, I pulled the vacuum line off of it, and it has a very strong gas smell. I don't see any gas coming out of it, though, even with the motor running. Everything I read says if the regulator is bad, then gas should come out of the vacuum line. Is there another check I can do on it to confirm this is the problem? Is there somewhere else I should be looking? It got two new heads right before this problem started, so its quite possible I knocked something putting it back together.
View 6 Replies
We have replaced the pcm : Still no motor turn over -no start !
New Battery and cables !
All-- fuses and relays-- were checked and are ok !
No ignition to the starter - motor will not turn over !
Jumper wire from control center starter relay -then motor turns over !
We are at a Loss here - Could it be the ignition switch? Neutral safety switch ?
View 13 Replies
was driving my 98 s10 2.2 auto shut it off wouldnt start found ign fuse blown replaced it blem again found the harness on manifold burnt i replaced all bad wires now wheni put fuse back in it tries to start even with key out turn key on replace fuse will start but keeps trying to start what did i do wrong or what to do
View 18 Replies