Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 F250 XLT - Noisy And Occasionally Will Pop Out Of 4wd
Feb 14, 2010
I have a 98 F250 Supercab XLT. 4wd with 3:73 gear ratio. twist 4wd on the dash. Truck runs great but when i switch to 4wd it makes noise and occasionally will pop out of 4wd. The noise starts at almost no speed. I can hear it at less than 5 mph. and only gets worse as i increase speed. (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) - But only in 4wd/ nice and quiet in 2wd.
I used sensors and ear phones to pinpoint the noise. It appeared to be coming from the front differential. I opened the pumpkin found clean fluid and no metal bits or any visible unusual wear. I changed the front diff. with another used unit. The noise is still there strong and unchanged. The wheel bearings and axles seem to be all right.
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I have been having odd problems with my truck for several weeks now and what the problem may be. Occasionally the truck will not start. This happens after it has been run for an errand or to church. The truck turns over but no ignition. Sometimes if I pump the gas pedal very quickly I can get it to start. Other times I have to sit and wait about 5 minutes. I have gotten the following two error codes - P1506=Cylinder Head Temp Sensor and P1299=Idle Air Control Overspeed Error. For two days the "check engine" light was on, but now it has gone out. I have searched for an answer to this problem on these boards and one possibility may be a vacuum leak. Is this the most likely? 1998 Triton 4.6 ....
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I have a 98 F-250 5.4L that has a constant ABS Light illuminated. My truck seems to brake fine ... I just bought this vehicle used and it has 93,800 miles on it.
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I have a friend that wants me to replace his heater core on his 1998 f250 with a triton 5.4. I told him I would and I've done the one in my 1995 f150 5.8. is it the same process or where to find the step by step instructions.
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1998 F-250LD 4X4 ... The outer boot is cracked, so I got a new one. Took the axle off, but cannot understand how to remove the boot. Where do I take the joint apart?
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1998 F250 ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs. The front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
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I have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
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I have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
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I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
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1998 4X4. My rear suspension is so loud and noisy it's driving me crazy. I've soaked the thing many times with wd40 but it doesnt seem to work or work not more than a day or two.
I've tried to make a pic with my phone because I think at the rear side of the leafs they are separating way too much... I've got no more than about 150lbs and a LPG-tank on my bed...
Moreover I think my truck rides bad. I know it's no Cadillac and I'm running 33s and its a 4x4 BUT I've got quite new Rancho shocks and the whole front suspension is in good shape and it got an alignment a month ago...
So what do you think, after 181.000mls time to get new rear leafs or take the old ones apart, free them from the rust, paint & grease them and put them back together?
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The passenger side power window sounds a little rough, almost like a slight grinding and it raises and lowers slower than the driver side.
This is kind of what happened when the plastic gears crumbled on the passenger side of my ranger. Does this sound like bad gears or could it be something that needs grease?
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Been trying to isolate my noisy serpentine belt. Had the belt off and spun everything, only thing I found that made any noise was the alternator. It had a nice churp like a bearing was on its way out in it. So I replaced that figuring my squeak was going to go away. No such luck. Listening to it again while it was idling, I crawled underneath. Almost seems like the churping noise is coming from the Crank Pulley. Is there a bearing on this pulley that goes bad?
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I have an 2003 F250 with a nosiy alternator and need to change the bearings. I would like to have the bearings on hand before i take it apart. What is the part numbers for the bearings I need?
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I've had this "rattle" when going over uneven roads for about the past few months and I think I narrowed it down to the rear calipers. They are both tight, but it seems as though the "floating" ability of the caliper is loose.....does that make any sense? I mean you can grab the caliper and it'll make a rattling noise, but the bolts are tight..
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01 F-150 7700 ed.
I have a 4R100 Tranny with 139K miles. It has been rebuilt. Ever since the rebuild (over 10 yrs ago), if I park the truck for a week or so or more, I will end up with a decent size puddle of trans fluid underneath the truck. I took it back to the shop that did the rebuild a couple times, but they could never find anything. It leaks enough to where my fluid level drops enough to cause the transmission to slip in a U-turn because the pickup tube becomes uncovered. I have a couple theories, but am wanting to hear from the collective.
Theory #1 When I park it on my slightly sloped driveway I don't regularly use the parking brake, so it rests on the gears, which eventually forces fluid out an overflow or breather tube.
Theory #2 (a very thin one) due to pressure changes associated with the weather, fluid is somehow siphoned out a breather tube due to some blockage internally in the tranny to where it's not equalizing with the outside air and has a high pressure within... ( i kinda laugh at myself for this one, but I am at a loss over the source of this)
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Ok, so I got a really wierd problem with headlights. 2001 F150, Supercrew, 4x4, 5.4L Auto lights and fog lights. Sitting with ignition off, light switch in "off" position, doors not locked - lights will occasionally blink off and on(more of a flicker). Symptoms go away if I lock with remote.
With engine running, lights "on" position. Turned lights to "park", they started to flicker, back to on, still flickering. Switched to off, still flickering. Switched to "auto", lights stayed on with no flickering.
When lights flicker, I can hear a rapid clicking under the dash somewhere(relay of some sort?). Headlight is a bit wobbly. But when I wiggle it, it has no effect on flickering. From what I remember, likely culprit is the GEM module.
Question: does a new module have to be programmed in any way or is it plug and go? I have a new headlight switch coming.
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2000 F150 5.4... I was cleaning the battery posts tonight. I was leaning against the bumper when I touched the positive cable and got voltage into my knee. I have had weird electrical problems occasionally.
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Have a p0401 code which I need to diagnose and solve. However, I don't believe the symptoms are indicative of the EGR system. Its a 1999 4.6L auto approximately 200k miles. Truck runs fine until it warms up, and then occasionally it begins to act like its missing under load. steady state on the freeway it may have an occasional miss, but put a load on the motor and the miss becomes real bad. This doesn't seem to me to be symptomatic of a P0401 code, but I don't really understand the EGR system enough to be sure. Searching on the forums for other p0401 codes doesn't seem to have the same symptoms.
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We had my son's water pump replaced in his 97 F150. It is now occasionally jumping to completely hot. If you turn it off and back on it returns to normal. The power to the engine is cut when it shows to be overheating. The check engine light has now come on.
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I purchased a 1999 F-150 Lariat 4x4 automatic transmission about a year ago. When I did, the previous owner told me about an idle issue that he has occasionally. He said that the issue was with the IAC. He claimed that he had replaced it several times but "it was hard to get a good aftermarket IAC that actually works". He said he tried several, but it never fixed the issue. That sounds like he wasn't replacing the defective part to me, but I don't know. This is my first truck to ever purchase.
Fast forward a bit (about a year), and I have had intermittent issues with idle and running rough since I bought the truck. I don't drive the truck that often, but they are becoming more common, so I want to get things fixed now.
Issues:
1. When running at idle, especially in park, the idle seems to fluctuate and never stay consistent. The idle drops as soon as I put it into drive, and the truck jerks a bit when going into drive because the idle was too high in park. It has never died while at idle, however.
2. When driving, especially up a slight or moderate hill, the power seems low and the truck starts to ping and jerk. The only way I can avoid the jerking is to stomp on the accelerator and go into a lower gear. And even when doing that, I still can notice an ever so slight jerk.
3. This past week, it was rough for an entire 40 mile journey on the interstate. Slight ping the entire ride home. When I pulled into the driveway, it was jerking until I turned it off. I haven't tried to drive it sense.
Potential issues:
1. IAC - maybe the previous owner was right. Maybe I should replace it again, or clean it with some carb cleaner.
2. Cam Phasers - I saw some posts about this on the forum.
3. EGR valve - Also saw some posts about this.
4. Maybe even the transmission? It doesn't seem to have an issue going into or out of gear, though.
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I recently bought a 4.2L V6 2003 F150 with only 20,350 original miles. This car belonged to an older gent who barely used it, then passed on about 3 years ago, and truck sat around barely used by anyone. When I picked it up I ran some Seafoam through the first two gas tanks as it was occasionally running rough and losing power. Since then truck has been running incredibly smooth, but in the last few days it is getting harder to start. If I pumped it two or three times it would start OK, but today I have had to pump it while cranking it to get it to start. ( the pumping may have nothing to do with it starting)
I am replacing the fuel filter in the next couple of days, as any accumulated junk that was in the tank or lines is now probably in the filter, but it seems that a badly clogged filter would also give me some problems running, and it runs really smooth once it starts. I get a pressure gauge, (I understand the rails have a pressure test port) what pressures should I expect at what moments?
Turn key on :
Crank engine :
I am brand new to the F150 and trucks in general.
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