I have a friend that wants me to replace his heater core on his 1998 f250 with a triton 5.4. I told him I would and I've done the one in my 1995 f150 5.8. is it the same process or where to find the step by step instructions.
View 1 RepliesFriend of mine has a 99 Ford F150 with the 5.4L. He thinks the heater core has gone on it as it blows a mist through the top vents when he turns the heater on. He can also smell antifreeze. Up here in Canada, its, well quite cold, nuff said about that. He has had estimates of anywhre from $800-$1000 to change it whereas the cost of the core is below $100. Is there anywhere that he can get a diagram.... of how to change it, all he knows was that he was told to remove the entire dash to gat at it.. Is that true ?
View 14 RepliesHow to replace the heater core?
View 13 RepliesMy heater core has a leak in it, but I can not get it replaced so I want to bypass it. How do I do that? Is there a video somewhere? Or tutorial with pictures? F-150 1998 ....
View 8 RepliesI have 1998 F-150 and the heater core was replaced 18 months ago. All was going well until about 2 weeks ago I noticed under heavy acceleration I would smell antifreeze. The smell would clear up and would not re appear for a day or so. Finally the other day when it was 8 outside I got in the truck and got about 5 miles from the house started up a hill and it was like a fog machine was mounted behind my dash the windows fogged up almost immediately so I figured great the core went bad again. Now the temperature has warmed up the last couple of days and there is nothing no fog in the cab the heater works fine just an occasional slight smell of antifreeze. Before I go through the trouble of tearing out the dash is there anything I should check I already checked the connections on the firewall and they were fine.
View 5 RepliesMy commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I have a 1997 F-150 5.4 V8. should I remove both in and out hoses from the firewall and connect them with a plastic fitting not to risk breaking the aluminum fittings on the motor?(There is an advanced a mile away) OR is it possible for me to remove the in hose from the firewall and remove the out hose from the motor, and run the in hose directly into the motor. Are the fittings the same and can I do that with limited time and tools?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2001 F150 with a 4.6L.. Do I need discharge the AC lines when replacing the heater core? How difficult is it to replace the heater core?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 f150. I had to bypass the heater core and now my A/C isn't working. The A/C compressor don't even come ON.
View 5 RepliesI have a '03 f 150 screw 4x4 with 5.4. I had to replace the heater core in the truck and I could hear air going through before the replacement. Now I can still hear it, have tried to burp the system a few times, even jacked up drivers side front on an incline to get reservoir higher. Ended up replacing the hose with the flow restrictor and that worked or so it seemed. The noise is back and I am lost on what to do next. I tested the head gasket and that came back negative also. What to do next or possibly what the issue is?
View 13 RepliesMy heater core must have sprung a leak this week. Not that I need heat in this weather but just the smell of it while running the A/C just stinks. I know I am going to have to replace it myself but just for S&G, what would a dealer charge to replace it?
View 4 RepliesHave a '02 f150 and thinking the heater core slowly dieing. Have noticed for several weeks a nice line of water leaking onto the passenger side floor. Do you have to take off the entire dash to get to it? Will be doing replacement myself as the dealer or shop would probably kill me on labor.
View 12 RepliesNew, to me, 2002 F-150 that developed heater core leak. I tore down the dash and replaced the heater core and reassembled everything.
All is good except that now the air bag light on the instrument cluster stays on continuously. There is no blinking...just a solid light that stays on.
I must have missed a connection, though I'm at a loss because I thought I got everything. Is there an obvious (though not obvious to me) connector that I should be looking for?
I cant find my original post but I am reporting back on a low heat output issue. Not the climate door. It was the heater core clogging up. Instead of replacing, this is what I did. Purchased a "drill pump" and some clear hose and some CLR. Cut both the heater hoses,taking consideration of where best to install "T" connectors.
While hoses disconnected,filled heater core with CLR(as much as I could get in it). Hooked clear hose,drill pump configuration,on to the heater hoses. Ran drill pump in both directions for several minutes and stopping and letting it sit for a few minutes.
About 1 hour all together. Pieces of debris came out of the heater core and I could see it through the clear hose. Flushed the heater core out. Installed "T" connectors and it is heating very well now.
We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
View 4 Replies2002 F150 5.4... I thought that I saw on here before a link that explained how to replace the heater core without removing the entire dash console. Looking for a link for this or get some good directions on how to replace the heater core?
View 1 Replies1991 F250 Diesel. I'm on my 5th heater core in the past 18 months. This last one lasted less than 500 miles. I'm using the Spectre brand from Autozone. I find it hard to believe i could have gotten 5 bad ones in a row. I have pressure checked the system and it's normal. There is no fluctuations in the readings, so I doubt there is a head gasket issue.
I checked for stray voltage in the coolant and the results never got above .17 volts, but it was usually lower than that. I thought I had an electrolysis issue when I noticed the heater core tubes touching the firewall, so for this last core, I insulated the tubes, but that didn't work. I've checked everything I can think of. The truck has 117K miles on it. I don't drive it much, less than a few thousand miles a year.
I recently replaced my heater core on 2001 F250. Would be a simple job if it weren't for the quick connects on the hoses. Any tool to take these apart on the truck where space is limited?
View 1 RepliesStarted to attempt to replace the heater core in my 08 SD 6.4. Didn't know the entire plenum has to come out in order to replace it. How to remove the plenum? My buddy is a Ford tech but I just am not getting what he is telling me and there is next to nothing coming up when I try to search.
View 2 Replies1998 F150 step side, 4.6 V-8 automatic, 176,000 miles -
Heater begins to blow heat as the engine warms up - heat gauge moves up to normal level - running at speed, suddenly the heater blows all cold, the heat gauge pegs to total hot - the oil light comes on, the engine begins to miss - stop the truck, shut off the motor, wait 10 seconds, start back up and all is normal and away I go. Heater working just fine. Gauges are just fine. Have checked the hoses when it pegged to hot, and they are just warm just as if everything is normal.
Problem is intermittent.
Have changed radiator reservoir cap, thermostat, made sure fluid level and mixture is correct - what else to check? Computer issue?
98 F150 2wd 5.4 -even though VIN says its "W" 4.6; it has a 5.4 with 4.6 timing setup-found. But that's a whole other story...
So, Replaced heater core. did the blend door too.
A week later it overheated and blew a heater hose off the core at the firewall (several times). Temp was up and down, forced me into cylinder head protect mode, so i called my mechanic.
Mechanic used a sniffer (blue liquid turns yellow) in my overflow tank and there was exhaust gas in it... so we replaced head gaskets, intake, timing, water pump, radiator and the rotted out rad support.
Got it done and back on the road, but a few weeks later and the heater hose quick disconnect blew off again, spewing coolant all over (again). This was what we thought was part of the original problem- head gasket allowing cylinder compression into the coolant passages. the little rubber hose that comes from the back of the intake and goes up into the heater core builds enough pressure to pop the disconnect right off and I dont know why. Like I said- I thought it was the head gasket blowing pressure into it but that's all been replaced. Why the pressure would be so high at that point, and how do I correct this?
This is my daily driver, so for now I've bypassed the heater core, but I'm afraid that pressure is gonna burst a hose and/or fitting again.
Plastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
View 1 Replies