I have a 98 F-250 5.4L that has a constant ABS Light illuminated. My truck seems to brake fine ... I just bought this vehicle used and it has 93,800 miles on it.
View 10 RepliesI have a little more detail on when the truck starts and does not . I have gone out the past two days and put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position and all the lights come on except Service Engine Soon light and truck will not start. I bought a ceramic electric heater and placed it on the floor directing the heat under the dash. after ten to fifteen minutes I go out and put the key in the ignition turn the key to the on position and the service engine soon light is on and the truck starts right up. I let it warm up for about a half hour and then shut it off. I then try to start it right back up and the service engine soon light comes on momentarily then goes off and the truck does not start?
View 5 RepliesI have a 97 f150 4x4 4.6 the airbag light in the cluster is constantly staying on it does not flash at all. The only threads I can find are for the airbag light flashing which mine does not do. The passenger airbag light is not burnt out so that's not the problem. Where to start looking.
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 F250 Supercab XLT. 4wd with 3:73 gear ratio. twist 4wd on the dash. Truck runs great but when i switch to 4wd it makes noise and occasionally will pop out of 4wd. The noise starts at almost no speed. I can hear it at less than 5 mph. and only gets worse as i increase speed. (sounds like a bad wheel bearing) - But only in 4wd/ nice and quiet in 2wd.
I used sensors and ear phones to pinpoint the noise. It appeared to be coming from the front differential. I opened the pumpkin found clean fluid and no metal bits or any visible unusual wear. I changed the front diff. with another used unit. The noise is still there strong and unchanged. The wheel bearings and axles seem to be all right.
I have a friend that wants me to replace his heater core on his 1998 f250 with a triton 5.4. I told him I would and I've done the one in my 1995 f150 5.8. is it the same process or where to find the step by step instructions.
View 1 Replies1998 F-250LD 4X4 ... The outer boot is cracked, so I got a new one. Took the axle off, but cannot understand how to remove the boot. Where do I take the joint apart?
View 2 Replies1998 F250 ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs. The front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
View 3 RepliesMy girlfriend just bought a 98 XLT AWD 4.0. does have a few problems.
First, the brake light is on (on the dash). all the lines are good, but the front pads need to be changed. if i take off hard, the brake light goes out for a bit.
Second, had a CEL. P0743, torque converter clutch circuit blah blah. also, the o/d light flashes constantly.
The trans shifts fine, even under WOT. also goes into o/d with no problems, and the button works.
I have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
I have a 98 f-150 4x4 the abs light is on and I can't link with scanner or seem to find anything wrong I don't have front abs just rear. I hate lights and I've checked everything I can think of.
View 5 Replies1998 F150 4.6 automatic.
Had problems with battery light. Was intermittent. Battery cables wouldn't stay tight, replaced them, light stayed off. Light back on now, constant. Battery reads 12.5ish off, 14.3ish running under load (lights, AC, etc.).
When truck is started, even cold, it doesn't rev up the RPM's and then die down to idle speed. It just goes straight to around 550rpm and surges slightly up and down between there and 650ish. Can these be related?
He has a 98 F150 4x4 and the tail lights are staying on all the time. I had him to replace the pressure switch(I think that's what it is called) but that didn't solve the problem. So now he has been taking the fuse out every time he stops, just so the lights will go off. When he puts the fuse back in, the tail lights stay on all the time, but his widows will not roll down. The windows roll down when the brake fuse is out.
View 2 RepliesMy 98 f150 a problem it won't shift into 4wd the lights glow and i can hear it click but nothing. When in 4L the engine gears down but nothing. I took the shift motor down and turned the motor turns but nothing i took pliers and manually turned the shaft the front wheels still don't turn.
View 6 RepliesI have a 98 f150 4.6 v8. when i start driving and i hit about 40 my truck doesn't want to shift, i have to take my foot off the gas, let it shift then apply the gas again. if i don't it shifts real hard or the RPM's go real high. and then every so often my overdrive off light blinks. it shifts in and out of overdrive ok though.
View 2 RepliesI own a 1998 ford f150 4.6l triton v8. I was leaving my house to go on a snowboarding trip about three weeks ago it was a rather warm wet day and all of the sudden my check engine light began to flash. I immediately pulled over and restarted my truck, once it was started again it was solid.
I turned around and started driving towards home. I get a small amount of feedback from my speakers and usually it's a smooth whizzing sound but as i accelerated the sound began to stutter rather than remain smooth. after about 5 minutes of driving this went away and the check engine light remained on.
so today I went out it's also a wet day and it's raining quite a lot. on my way into town everything seemed okay. then on my way home the check engine light began to flash again and the feedback from the speakers became choppy again.
I would also like to mention my battery light is on but it was on prior to the first time this happened. I'm just wondering if the belt could be loose or slipping due to the wet weather?
My abs light is constantly on, is it a sensor?
2008 F250, 5.4 l, 4wd .....
Just serviced an '03 F150 (4.6/4R70/4x4, 129,000 miles) where the shifter had come clean off. I replaced it with the Dorman replacement and had the battery disconnected during replacement just in case.
Once it was all hooked up I put the neg batt cable back on and turned on the key. If I hit the OD button it would only illuminate momentarily, ie so long as I was holding the button. I thought that odd so I started the truck and then hit the button again at which point it blew fuse 29.
I replaced Fuse 29 and now the OD cancel button is illuminated constantly - PRND21, doesn't matter. It will not toggle off. I thought maybe it was the switch itself at the end of the shifter and I just happened to have a new-in-the-sealed-bag Ford OEM switch that I swapped in, but no change. I also pulled the Dorman part again and checked for a short between the three wires that run in the shifter, but they're all good.
Then I pulled Fuse 29 and it still won't shift into OD while driving on the highway.
Oh, I will say it appears to be overfilled, I'm gonna see if I can suck some out of the dipstick tube but I'm not confident an overfill would cause this.
OD cancel light always on (does NOT flash). Will not shift into OD at any speed. No codes.
Basically I think something is wrong mechanically and the truck is trying to say so with the constant OD light.
Vehicle is 1998 F150 with 194k. The battery is 1 1/2 yrs old and belts and alternator are original.
Yesterday morning my VHF and dog tracking eqipment started humming with the truck running. The hum on the tracking eqpt. only happened when I pointed the antennae over the direction of the hood with truck running. When I shut truck off everything is normal. Later in the day the battery light came on. The battery light would go off if I kept it over 2400 rpm's. The charge on the dash was normal but as I got closr to home last night it dropped to almost nothing and the lights were very dim.
I am thinking alternator. What I am confused about is the humming noise in the background. The tracking eqpt. is completely separate from the truck while the VHF is direct to the battery with an iline fuse. Bad voltage regulator?
I have a 2003 mountaineer v-6 awd drives pretty good but od light is always flashing even if ignition switch is open and truck not started..and check transmission on message display also..the only thing that i feel its really tight on turns as if it wants to lock up but once steering gets straight it runs fine... I know that a regular scanner cant pull codes I got to go to transmission shop but chances are there gonna tell me its trans time....
View 6 RepliesMy escape has over 200k miles. My battery light dimly flickers constantly when running. there is also a misfire that seems to correspond with the flicker. the faster i rev the engine, the faster the battery light blinks.
My battery constantly shows 14.1 volts. the battery is new the alternator has been replaced twice in the past 2 years.... I noticed when i use my rear washer fluid, it spills into the car on the passenger side kick panel inside the vehicle.