Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Engine Is Smoking Blue
Jul 1, 2013
I have a 1998 f150 4x4 with a 4.6 triton vin #w and only 150,000 miles but its smoking. On first start up everything is good to go but when the engine reaches operating temperatures it will smoke.
It does not smoke all the time, just on takeoff. Such as after taking off after sitting at a red light it will puff a cloud of smoke from both sides of the engine. The engine is smoking blue so I know its oil its burning.
I pulled the valve covers off last week and the engine is clean, no sludge or gum. Power is good, runs good, and has good compression. Why its smoking.
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I only see it on start up, after it starts I don't see blue smoke or smell it could this be valve guide seals? If so are they hard to change? This truck has 168000 miles on it and has a 4.6 engine.
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Just picked up a 99 F250 7.3 Stroker, it had sat for two years in a warehouse, the truck had just had reman injectors put in right before it was parked. We fired it up, and it was missing, and smoking a lot (light blue, almost white) I checked the oil filler cap, and no water on it, after it ran for a while, it stopped. Shut it down, went and got my trailer ready to load the truck, fired it up, and no smoke to speak of, by the time I got it to my trailer, still no smoke.
I revved it against the governor a few times, hoping to clear the miss (figured may have been trash, or a sticky injector from sitting so long) It is turned up pretty good, as it came with a Superchip Super Tuner. It seems to hit on all eight above 2500 RPM or so. Brought it home, and took it out on the road, it seems to only miss under 2500 RPM or so. I took of from a dead stop, then got on it hard at about 15 to 20 MPH, it took of nice, then all of a sudden, the tach started climbing like the trans was slipping, looked in the mirror, and the tires were smoking, guess they broke loose when the boost came in!
I let it idle and warm up for a good half hour and noticed a lot of pure white smoke coming from the exhaust, went back to it and it was steam, I took the oil filler cap off, and there was a lot of steam coming out of there, pulled the dipstick, more steam, I then noticed the degas bottle was low, I topped it off, and got in the truck, and revved it a few times, then held it at 2500 RPM for about a minute, It started blowing water out from under the degas bottle cap. I called the guy I got it from, and he did NOT put new injector sleeves in when he did the injectors, I don't see any oil in the water, but there is water getting on the oil filler cap now! Does it sound like a head gasket, or an injector sleeve?
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My truck is a 1998 F-150 4X4 set up for towing etc. The left front started smoking and the front end just started bouncing around very badly. Of course I pulled off and let it cool down. My question is this; I've pulled the hub and the bearings seem smooth although maybe a bit tight. I've checked the caliper and it seems to be working properly.
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I have a 2002 F150 4.6 liter 2 wheel drive with 49000 original miles, 30000 of that in the past 2 years. on a recent road trip the right rear disk brake caliper jammed in city traffic. I limped into a local repair shop with the right rear brake smoking. I rolled out with all new rear rotors pads and calipers. The mechanic could not locate new brake hoses. These hoses and lines are one piece from the caliper to the T fitting on the axle. Even the ford dealer could not locate the right rear brake lines.
Made it home 450 miles but the right rear caliper is still dragging a little on the new rotor. Seems to be about 40F hotter than the left side. I have spent the day trying to find replacements and can find the left side in one piece but not the right side. I have looked at the the union where the hose and line connect and there is no hex on the line side of the fitting its just round. You can see where the mechanic put a pipe wrench on the round and tried to break the two pieces apart but no luck.
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I've got an '02 F150 with a 5.4L Triton. Despite being 10 yrs. old it's just passed the dealer warranty mileage about 80,000 miles. Due to a family situation it's been sitting idle for upwards of 2 or 3 weeks between startups.
When I do startup there's a puff of blue/geyish smoke, the engine idles rough for about 30 secs. and then everything smooths out and she runs normal.
I haven't noticed this issue before, I would add the temps here have been extremely cold the last few weeks. What direction do I point a mechanic in so he doesn't waste time or money on a diagnostic.
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I have a 07 camry 4 cylinder with about 80k miles on it. Now on cold starts i started to notice that it will have a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust then it will go away right away and when i drive it there is no smoke and the car drives fine.
I did some research and Im thinking that it is the valve seals. Now my question has tried to sea foam it and then run thicker oil to see it it will stop the smoking? or will i just have to replace the valve seals?
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My aunt has a 1998 F150 with the 4.6 V8. with only 40,000 miles.
Two years ago when she tried to leave work the truck would not start, it would crank over, but it would not start. She had the truck towed home and we figured out it was her fuel pump went bad. She did not have the money at the time to fix it, so she let it set and drover her nissan around.
I know after sitting for a few years the piston rings will stake (rust) to the cylinder walls. Usually take the plugs out, and pour in some oil, PB blaster,etc....and let it sit for a day or so, then turn the motor by hand to free it up.
Well She decided to get it fixed finally, and had it towed to the local ford dealer after sitting in her driveway for two years. Ford calls her later in the day and tells her the battery is dead and wont hold a charge, and the engine is siezed/locked up. They tell her it needs a brand new engine and could cost $5000. + after all is said and done.
She calls me asking what she should do. I told her BS! it only has 40,000 miles, and it does not need a new engine. It just needs to be broke free from sitting. I told her to have it towed to my house and I will fix it.
So today she had the tow truck bring it out to me. Tow truck driver tells me that ford said it has a bad fuel pump ( we knew) and that the motor has a spun main bearing in the motor..and asks me if I was going to rebuild the engine.
I tell him the story on the truck and he shook his head..and said yea..Ford is Full of it! I call my aunt and tell her what the tow truck driver told me, so she calls Ford..and asks what they did to the truck? Ford said, the truck has a dead battery, bad fuel pump and a spun bearing. She asked them how do they know it was a bearing?
Ford said they got the truck to run but the engine made a horrible noise like a bad /spun bearing inside.
I asked her, how did they get the truck to run with no gas/no fuel pressure if the fuel pump is out? The only way they could is with spraying Starting fluid ( ETHER) into the motor and fuel injection motors HATE that..they will run like total crap...
Bang, etc. because none of the sensors are working correctly..and makes the computer go OH CRAP. It's the end of the world!
If they (ford service) broke the motor free..I wonder how bad they did it. Did they FORCE it and break something internal ( bent a rod, wrist pin..)? I can't prove it, if they did.
So the truck is at my house and I am going to check it out. I am still going to pull the plugs and put oil inside, turn the motor by hand to make sure it is not locked up or messed up internally from them "working" on it.
I have never heard of a bearing going bad by just sitting. I have never worked on a 4.6 mod motor..and I know nothing about how good or bad they are... but I am soon to find out!
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I have a 98 F150, 4.6L with approx. 245,000 miles on it. recently it started, then studdered a little bit and died. I managed to get it re-started, it then shuddered a little more although I was able to drive it back up the drive way and park it. Now, it will crank however it does not even attempt to fire. The sound that it makes when trying to start seems odd to me. Like the engine is just turning against a constant resistance instead of the normal starting sound. I tried shooting a little starter fluid into the throttle body and nothing changed. I pressed on the shrader valve and got a spew of fuel to come out so it seems that it might not be a fuel problem though it sure sounds like one. Just curious, what are the symptoms of a truck with no compression?
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I have a 98 f-150 4.6L 5spd that has a weird rattling noise coming from what sounds like the engine. The noise will only happen when the truck is in gear and under a load. It will not happen if I keep the RPM's low, unless I am going up a hill. When I rev the truck in neutral, the rattling noise isn't there. Also when I'm driving and hear the ratling noise it will go away when i push the clutch in(which im guessing takes the load off) but will come back when i let out on the clutch. Seems to happen most when I'm in gear and trying to accelerate.
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Removing 4.6 triton from 1998 F-150. Is there a way to remove the top 2 screws connecting the engine to the bell housing without removing the intake manifold? Although I don't mind removing the intake, I am doing a 4.6 to 5.4 swap and would rather attach the intake prior to putting the 5.4L back in. Figuring if I cant get it out that way though, I wont be able to put it back that way.
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After tooling around town and a complete warm up cycle for the engine I encountered a problem. The situation is this.... Had to go around a slow poke....waited until traffic had cleared and nailed it. My truck belched out a boat-load of blue smoke from the tail pipe. Could not duplicate this on the return trip to the stealer (Dealer). Needles to say, I am worried about the health of the engine....(no codes popped, or anything else as I had a code reader hooked up) My truck did the blue cloud again with a rev up in park after a cool down but wouldn't do it again, but there was a strong smell of unburned fuel at the tail pipe.
4.6L, 2WD, Sport Package....
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Alright so In January had head gaskets done on my truck and when I got it back it Dont have any low end power and I noticed it was using oil. If I let it idle 15 min or so and rev it up it blows out a bunch of blue smoke and smells like oil bad. Been trying to figure out whats going on. Ive only put about 800 miles on it since I got it back for the head gaskets And its burned at least 3 quarts of oil. Its going to the shop on Monday gonna start with compression check and go from there I'm Thinking Its valve seals or a bent valve. But machine shop surface and pressured checked the heads. Truck only has 146000 miles on it shouldn't be having these lined of problem. Its an 03 5.4.....
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I just bought a 2002 echo recently and it started smoking blue. The car has 135000 miles which seems low to me to be blowing smoke so soon. I grew up around cars since my dad was a mechanic so I checked the compression on a cold engine. Cyl. 1 was 117psi, cyl. 2 was 134, cyl.3 was 127 and cyl. 4 was 117. I realize they are low but the car is blowing a pretty good amount. The car drives pretty good overall and seems to have power, i drove it on the freeway a few times and did 80mph fairly easy. I was wondering if this could possibly be valve stem seals gone bad? I will check the pcv valve as well. I really like the car and have read a lot of good things about the echo.
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I have a 98 F150 Supercab 4x4 with 4.6 and an auto trans. I have 107,000 miles on the truck. Recently developed a engine "tick". Upon start up the "tick" is very noticeable. Seems to go away after its been driven a few miles and everything comes up to operating temp. I have checked the exhaust manifolds, all studs and nuts are still there. There are no noticeable holes that I could feel in the manifolds. Read some other posts here that have the "tick under load". Mine goes away once everything warms up. What to look at or for?
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I'm a relatively new F150 owner (just got rid of the 98 Ranger I drove since 99), so I thought I'd check in to see if I was overlooking something obvious. A few days ago, after driving to the store with no obvious issues, I went shopping (coincidentally for oil change materials) and when I returned to my truck it would not start.
Here is a bit of info:
Starter cranks over the engine.
Battery is relatively new, and has plenty of power.
I can hear the fuel pump kick on briefly.
Check engine light is on (EGR Valve fault).
Engine started with starter fluid.
Engine ran like normal after starting.
Finally, the vehicle started/ran fine for a few days before the issue occurred again.
Like I said, I'm not too familiar with the vehicle yet, but I'm assuming the issue must be with the fuel delivery system. I plan on replacing the EGR valve, but I am curious whether a faulty EGR valve cause a no start? Also, I'm wondering if it's more likely that the fuel pump is going bad, or something electrical is the problem since I'm under the impression that the engine stops sending fuel to the cylinder if/when the engine doesn't start quickly after turning the key.
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I Have a 1998 f150 4.6 XLT and recently it has been starting on and off. sometimes i will try and start it and wham! it starts right off. then other times I just here the starter hitting and engaging but nothing. Replaced the starter, solenoid and still nothing. It does have an alarm system but the alarm light doesn't come on, also had battery charged and its working fine. I am really fed up with this beautiful looking POS. Oh and the wiper motor needs replace.
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I own a 1998 ford f150 4.6l triton v8. I was leaving my house to go on a snowboarding trip about three weeks ago it was a rather warm wet day and all of the sudden my check engine light began to flash. I immediately pulled over and restarted my truck, once it was started again it was solid.
I turned around and started driving towards home. I get a small amount of feedback from my speakers and usually it's a smooth whizzing sound but as i accelerated the sound began to stutter rather than remain smooth. after about 5 minutes of driving this went away and the check engine light remained on.
so today I went out it's also a wet day and it's raining quite a lot. on my way into town everything seemed okay. then on my way home the check engine light began to flash again and the feedback from the speakers became choppy again.
I would also like to mention my battery light is on but it was on prior to the first time this happened. I'm just wondering if the belt could be loose or slipping due to the wet weather?
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97 f150 4.2 ... Got a pickup awhile back and was smoking excessive mostly blue. Pulled the motor and had exhaust valve with hole in it and intake valve not seating on separate cylinders. All new gaskets and put back in truck. Deleted catalytic since they were both destroyed and cleaned muffler as best I could. Now it smokes but mostly white when revved up and maybe slight blue at idle. It's not using coolant or oil but went through five gallons of gas in short time.
Tests I have done : Checked fuel pressure and holds 38 psi all day. Tested maf o2 sensors, one is bad and tested vacuum and compression all good. It seems to be over fueling to the extreme. idles a little rough and will backfire on occasion. No check engine light but had all the o2 sensor issue codes. I'm leaning toward bad PCM... Would that cause the smoke rough idle and super rich condition??
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I have a new to me 98 F250LD with the 4.6/4R70W. I have maintained this truck fro my FIL as best as I could get him to spend (neglected). Filter and fluid replace with Mercon VI last year due to 2-3 shift slip.
He gave me the truck after it would not climb a hill, just hit stall speed and would not move up a steep hill, as I understand it. I put Seafoam trans tune in hoping it would free up sticky solenoids or valves in the VB.
I finally got it registered in my name and drove it to work and back today. After about 25 miles highway driving it shudders pretty bad trying to climb a hill at low speed.
It seems to me that at this low speed, torque converter lockup should not even be a possibility. I do not have COP, but rather a single coil pack. I replaced the wires and plugs for Dad a few years ago, but some shady shop later told him that I didn't replace the left rear (to make an upsale I suppose). Not sure what they may have done in there.
I have scanned with my ELM 327 and Droid using Torque Pro, and the only Fault is EGR flow.
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I just got a 1998 F150 5.4l 4x4 autotragic. Was sold to me as needing trans, wouldn't start. Tossed in a new starter and solenoid, now I can hear the the starter turn crank pulley turns maybe a quarter inch and when I let off the starter it goes back to the same spot.
Fear is motor is locked, but question (i don't know automatics) is there any way that a bad trans could keep a motor from turning over? Truck rolls in neutral or drive, pulled the drain plug no water just oil. Tempted to just buy a running 5.4 with trans but if I can avoid that I'd prefer to.
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