Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Coolant System Develops Air Bubble And Fluid Overflow?
Jun 30, 2016
So I have a 98 f150 with the 4.6L V8. Been having some issues with it, first off it gets the standard film on the windows associated with a bad heater core, it doesn't leak fluid into the truck tho. But it does have an issue with heat. Also while driving the coolant system develops an air bubble and pushes fluid out the over flow. Also it periodically registers that it's over heating and goes into limp mode. if you press in the clutch and turn the truck off it resets and acts as if nothing ever happened.
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I have a 97 F-150 and my Radiator fluid has been leaking very bad but hasn't been taking the fluid from overflow tank. Actually the new fluid that I put in the overflow has now turned a rusty color....
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1998 F150 4x4 4.2 ... Small leak spraying out of a steel pipe onto the front of the motor. This isn't my truck so I'm not very familiar with it but looks like there is a pipe that come from the water pump threw a bracket and y's and one end has a hose going to heater core n the other part is where the leak is I think it has a hose connected to it that goes to the intake. Only leaks when thermostat open. I'm going to take it apart tonight n see what I find. Iv looked for a replacement part and found nothing so I am going to try n replace the steel pipe with hose.
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I have an 1998 F150 4.6L V8 that is using coolant. I recently replaced the radiator because of a leak in the lower right side. Vehicle has about 190000 miles on it. The vehicle is using some coolant, but no apparent leaks. When I warmed up the engine after replacing the radiator, liquid dripped out of the back of the muffler - rusted out.
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I just bought a 98 F150 V6 Manual transmission 2wd truck. Its a clean truck and I'm liking it so far but its got a couple minor issues. Whats the point of buying a truck if you don't get to work on it??
The High Beams don't work at all. Low beams are fine. I've put new bulbs in, and fuse 16 in the passenger compartment has continuity. I'm suspecting the multiple function switch, because when I pull out to engage the high beams, nothing happens. The indicator on the dash doesn't come on, and the low beams don't turn off either.
The second issue is the coolant gauge doesn't read. When I turn the key to the on position, the needle on the gauge moves up just a bit, but it never moves after that. Anything to check?
There are a couple other minor things like the e-brake light on the dash doesn't always turn on, but I can deal with that.
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I have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
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New truck to me. Truck was advertised with a slow coolant leak. Figured I would trace the leak down and get it repaired no issues. Anyway, working on it this evening I take a close look around the oil filler area and notice the dreaded milkshake color.
I drained the oil out of the truck and the oil actually came out nice and black. Is the headgasket the only area that would cause the oil/coolant mixture? Supposedly the truck has never been overheated.
At any rate, on to find articles on how to pull apart a 4.6L Triton head. I'll see if I'm up to this challenge.
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1996 F-150 5.0... So I bought this truck a couple months ago for a really good price and its my regular vehicle that I use daily. While driving I switched tanks from the front to rear and when i reached my destination i noticed that fuel spilled from the cap, I opened the cap and fuel overflowed. I've read in forums saying that its the Fuel Pressure Regulator or the Fuel Tank Selector Valve . It still drives and runs fine, but I would like to know which part its specifically causing the problem?
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I have a 2000 expy with the 5.4 just turned over 200k. I bought the upper and lower radiator hoses awhile back and finally gotta chance to change them out. I noticed i got the wrong bottom hose so I only swapped out the top hose. I filled it back up with 1.5 gal of distilled water. After I drove it about 60 miles I checked the overflow tank and noticed copper colored flakes in it. Im assuming the previous owner put some stop leak in it but not sure Ive never had any problems as far as overheating or losing coolant. What else could it be? Im going to get the right bottom hose and do a flush. Can I use the bottom hose I have, its got the two extra hoses for the oil cooler? I was just going to connect the two hoses together but not sure if that will cause a problem.
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
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My original intention was to replace the engine oil in the car. I was in a hurry(yes....I know) I could not find the oil drain plug. I did find a large bolt which turned out to be a drain plug for the inverter coolant instead. The instant the fluid drained from the car, I knew it was not engine oil. I did not know the drained fluid was inverter coolant. It had the color of a transmission fluid but significantly less viscous.
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I got a 64 F100 with a 292 that I am thinking of installing a coolant overflow tank on to aliviate having to fill the radiator frequently.
The question being............Is it a sealed system or do I need to provide an air bleed to adjust for the presure change within the cylinder I intend to use?
I realise that thermal syphoning will return the coolant to the radiator but am unsure as to weather or not I need to allow the airspace to remain at atmospheric pressure.
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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I have owned my 2005 v10 ex since 60000 miles. Have had many dependable family road trips and love my truck.
Recently it has started puking coolant and the overflow tank smells like exhaust. The oil cap has some coolant sludge on it. But there is no coolant mixed with the oil. Or oil in the coolant.
I am pretty certain these are the signs of failing head gaskets. The truck has 193000 miles on it now.
Want to keep it on course. But keep it reliable. So do I buy new engine or do I just replace head gaskets?
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and I am still trying to figure out why the coolant will overflow in the radiator reserve tank. I put in a new thermostat and a new cap to the overflow tank. When the tank is cold, sat over night, I put in new anti-freeze to the cold coolant line. Then I start up the explorer and let it run for a while. The temp gauge goes up, then drops a tad and cold air comes out of the vents.
After I rev up the engine, I see the coolant level starts to rise in the overflow tank, then it goes to the top and starts to leak out. This takes a while being the thermostat has not kicked in to suck the fluid in. Before this happens, the heater core lines are luke warm. After the tank overflows, the remaining gets sucked into the engine and I get nice warm heat. What causes this. I had the test done to see if the head gasket is bad. The test was negative.
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1993 ranger, 3.0 V6 203,000 miles. As engine warms up coolant in blown into over flow and spills out. At that point system is low and truck runs hotter than norman, 3/4 way across gage. What would be causing overflow to overfill from engine. Could it be a bad rad. cap? Just replaced head gaskets at 200,000 miles. Truck runs good. No oil in water, no sign of visible leakes other than overflow tank overfilling and loosing coolant.
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Anyway here's the problem. My son has a 2000 Ranger 3.0L V6 he left me when he had to move back up to Las Vegas. I was out checking it out today and pulled the radiator cap, man what a mess. It looks like reddish mud in there and the overflow tank. It's not milky like oil in there it's more like mud. It's caked up on the bottom of the cap and inside the filler neck and the coolant looks the same.
So the questions are, what's the best way to clean it all out and what would cause it?
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I was filling my wiper fluid reservoir and could not fill it to the top. After going throiugh a full bottle of fluid, I noticed it was spilling from underneath the car. I assumed it was an overflow, but later realized that this would make no sense as windshield fluid doesn't freeze, at least not for most of the world, and needs nowhere to expand to.
Now I have to start pulling pieces off the car to see if the tank is broken. I'm guessing I'll need a service manual to find the best way to get to it. If it is broken, how the heck would it have happened? I've only had the car for a few months, so I don't know its history. No accidents though.
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I have a '88 F250 with a couple of dual tank issues, first of all if I'm running on the rear tank the fuel returns in the front tank.... not an isssue if trhe front tank is empty, but if both tanks are full the front tank will overflow. If the front tank is empty I run on the back tank until I'm out of gas and switch to the front and I"ll have about a half a tank in the front tank.
Second issue, running the front tank the fuel gauge stays on full until I have about half a tank, then it works OK. If I'm running the back tank it stays on full, even after the tank runs out of gas??
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So I have been troubleshooting a few cooling issues and I am currently at a loss of WTF is going on with this thing. The truck is a 99 5.4L SD and has no heat and was burping a little coolant.
The truck was originally burping coolant out of the overflow tank. After verifying that it was not a head gasket by all means except the exhaust gas test. I replaced the overflow tank and cap.
Now the truck is holding pressure fine but I do not have heat. Here is what I have done:
I replaced the blend door actuator--no heat
I went to flush the heater core and since the quick disconnects were such a bitch to get off I decided ti replace it while I was at it. --still no heat,
New thermostat 195 deg --no heat
The radiator is brand new
Supposedly the water pump was replaced by the previous owner I have all the receipts for the truck so I could double check
Truck seems to circulate coolant fine i measured temps at the water outlet with an IR thermometer peaking at about 175~10 deg due to accuracy of the thermometer and heat loss due to thermal variations the lower radiator hose and reservoir coolant temps were around 76~10 degrees so the radiator is working as advertised . Truck doesn't overheat, granted after draining and replacing the coolant the temp gauge did climb some while driving until i worked out all the air pockets but still didn't overheat.
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Truck was throwing that collect temp different than oil temp light then started to heat. When I drove temp went down. When I stopped I checked coolant t as low and left orange rust dust around and under overflow I have topped off but can't find a leak. I clean it and it comes back I have a leak somewhere? Head gasket? But oil is fine I drive my truck 200 miles no issues?
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