I have an 1998 F150 4.6L V8 that is using coolant. I recently replaced the radiator because of a leak in the lower right side. Vehicle has about 190000 miles on it. The vehicle is using some coolant, but no apparent leaks. When I warmed up the engine after replacing the radiator, liquid dripped out of the back of the muffler - rusted out.
View 3 RepliesMy 94 is suddenly seeing small coolant loss with no apparent leaks, temp goes up on dial now when idling, more frequent white smoke from tailpipe. My wife ran is bone dry of coolant when water pump failed 6 mo ago. Mechanic replaced water pump, timing belt and warned that there could be head damage that may appear in a few months. Is this what I am now seeing or should I start with something else?
View 3 RepliesI've got a 96 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, that appears to be losing coolant. I do not see any apparent leaks. I've checked compression and all cylinders are 170lbs. Within the past year I've replaced the radiator and hoses, timing belt, water pump, etc. Within the past month I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. I do see it bubbling in the overflow tank. Also you see vapor with the radiator cap off. I feel sure its probably a head gasket ..
View 2 RepliesI'm the second owner of a '13 Golf R with just over 11k miles. This car has been on APR Stage III since 17 miles. Since I took ownership of it, it has been slowly losing coolant. I seem to lose 1-2oz per week, and a thorough top and bottom inspection of the coolant lines in the engine bay hasn't revealed any obvious sources of leakage. I've had the oil analyzed, and there wasn't any sign of burning it or losing it into the crankcase, so I assume it is leaking and/or evaporating off somewhere.
The only thing that looked remotely like a possible source of loss is a tiny (maybe 3mm) white "crust" where the plastic end caps meet the aluminum core of the radiator. Is that a likely spot to lose coolant at such a slow rate? Are there any other usual suspects? I haven't let it drop down past the midpoint of the hashed "low" area, so damage from lack of coolant seems unlikely, but it is slightly disconcerting to be losing any.
1998 F150 4x4 4.2 ... Small leak spraying out of a steel pipe onto the front of the motor. This isn't my truck so I'm not very familiar with it but looks like there is a pipe that come from the water pump threw a bracket and y's and one end has a hose going to heater core n the other part is where the leak is I think it has a hose connected to it that goes to the intake. Only leaks when thermostat open. I'm going to take it apart tonight n see what I find. Iv looked for a replacement part and found nothing so I am going to try n replace the steel pipe with hose.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 Buick lesaber it ran hot the other day [temp light came on] do I pulled in to gastation and the overflow tank was empty I filled it to the hot line and ran it for a few minutes light went off drove 8 blocks to my house let it cool down and opens the radiator cap no coolant. I checked the overflow tank empty too. So I got some coolant from my garage and poured it into the radiator as I was pouring it started to leak out somewhere on the upper passenger side of the engine under the plastic noise cover and behind the pulleys. This happened while the car was not running. It's my family's only car so I can't tear it apart until the weekend but where to start or what parts to have on hand.
View 9 RepliesI am currently driving a 98 Buick with the 3.8 V6 and 120,000 on the clock. The car runs 100%, and its paid for
My problem is I seem to be losing coolant, at the rate of about the entire overflow in 2 weeks (I only drive on avg 15-20 miles a day). The problem is I have no leaks. I even went so far as to pull the spark plugs and they all looked good (none of them looked "steam cleaned"). I put florescent dye into the rad, and I can’t find a drop of coolant anywhere. The intake gaskets have already been done on this car, and I triple checked around it with the die.
Rad, and hoses all check out, no dye in the oil, no dye at the heater core/AC drain under the car, the core plugs are fine, around the head gaskets seem fine as well.. I CANT FIGURE THIS OUT !! I am 100% losing coolant, but I can’t find hide nor hair of it..
I know I can keep adding coolant, but I like my cars as leak free as possible and if it is something bad, I want to know about it now not later.
I just bought a 98 F150 V6 Manual transmission 2wd truck. Its a clean truck and I'm liking it so far but its got a couple minor issues. Whats the point of buying a truck if you don't get to work on it??
The High Beams don't work at all. Low beams are fine. I've put new bulbs in, and fuse 16 in the passenger compartment has continuity. I'm suspecting the multiple function switch, because when I pull out to engage the high beams, nothing happens. The indicator on the dash doesn't come on, and the low beams don't turn off either.
The second issue is the coolant gauge doesn't read. When I turn the key to the on position, the needle on the gauge moves up just a bit, but it never moves after that. Anything to check?
There are a couple other minor things like the e-brake light on the dash doesn't always turn on, but I can deal with that.
So I have a 98 f150 with the 4.6L V8. Been having some issues with it, first off it gets the standard film on the windows associated with a bad heater core, it doesn't leak fluid into the truck tho. But it does have an issue with heat. Also while driving the coolant system develops an air bubble and pushes fluid out the over flow. Also it periodically registers that it's over heating and goes into limp mode. if you press in the clutch and turn the truck off it resets and acts as if nothing ever happened.
View 2 RepliesI have a 98 f150 2wd 4.6 the truck began showing signs that it needed a head gasket about 2k miles ago, my coolant reservoir smells like gas and the coolant is a rusty brown color the truck smokes slightly and the oil cap has chocolate moose like substance from the oil mixing with water. I dont care to keep the truck to much longer however i need it to last me to the end of year. I purchased some k-seal and new oil/coolant etc but after thinking about it all of that chocolate moose up in the valve covers will still be in my motor after i perform the oil change and coolant flush. How should I go about attempting to clean the motor out ? seafoam scares me because i do not know if my rings are already damaged from driving while needing the head gasket, Or should i just keep doing oil changes until it looks clean?
View 3 RepliesNew truck to me. Truck was advertised with a slow coolant leak. Figured I would trace the leak down and get it repaired no issues. Anyway, working on it this evening I take a close look around the oil filler area and notice the dreaded milkshake color.
I drained the oil out of the truck and the oil actually came out nice and black. Is the headgasket the only area that would cause the oil/coolant mixture? Supposedly the truck has never been overheated.
At any rate, on to find articles on how to pull apart a 4.6L Triton head. I'll see if I'm up to this challenge.
1997 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0L. So I've replaced my thermostat thinking that would fix the coolant vanishing problem, turns out it did not. Make tank became dry once again and my temp gauge keeps going back and forth from cold to hot.
View 2 RepliesI noticed while vacuuming that both front carpets are damp??. I don't see any apparent leaks, what this could be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Chevy Malibu, V6, 3.1, auto, 140k miles. Car started out with code 0420 with no noticeable symptoms, but then added code 0303 (miss fire cyl #3) with loud knock (mostly after warmup) and loss of power under load. Now internal loss of coolant (no puddles or external drips). Changed plugs and wires - no change - all plugs looked good with no sign of contamination. Questions - if this is a valve/piston/lifter problem (which would explain the knock, miss-fire and loss of power), why would I get the loss in coolant? If the loss of coolant is fouling plug #3 (which would explain the coolant loss, miss fire and loss of power), could that give me the loud knocking? I don't see how a valve/piston/lifter issue would cause a leak in coolant but I also don't see how a coolant leak into cyl #3 would give me such a loud knock. Do I have two different problems? If it is a leak into cyl #3, is there any way to tell if it is the intake manifold gasket (which leaked before and was replaced five-six years ago and which I could do again if I had to) or a blown head gasket (which I don't think I could fix or afford to get fixed)? Engine will occasionally get hot (but not overheat).
View 7 RepliesA couple of days ago, my wife noticed that the floor mat on the rear passenger side of her car was sopping wet. She thought perhaps a water bottle must have spilled or leaked, so she soaked up the water and dried out the mat. Today, the mat was wet again with about an inch of water accumulating only on the passenger side of the rear floor.
We have had no significant rain for more than two weeks; in fact, it's been sunny and hot with temps in the 90s. There is no water on the front floor or the rear driver's side floor. Due to the heat, we have run the AC, but it is working fine with no apparent leaks. There is no apparent leaking in the trunk or underneath the car. There are no apparent leaks from the radiator or hoses. Everything is working fine, except for the water on the rear passenger side floor. We can't figure out the source of the water.
The car is a 2006 4-door Toyota Camry LE with 199K miles on it.
01 F-150 7700 ed.
I have a 4R100 Tranny with 139K miles. It has been rebuilt. Ever since the rebuild (over 10 yrs ago), if I park the truck for a week or so or more, I will end up with a decent size puddle of trans fluid underneath the truck. I took it back to the shop that did the rebuild a couple times, but they could never find anything. It leaks enough to where my fluid level drops enough to cause the transmission to slip in a U-turn because the pickup tube becomes uncovered. I have a couple theories, but am wanting to hear from the collective.
Theory #1 When I park it on my slightly sloped driveway I don't regularly use the parking brake, so it rests on the gears, which eventually forces fluid out an overflow or breather tube.
Theory #2 (a very thin one) due to pressure changes associated with the weather, fluid is somehow siphoned out a breather tube due to some blockage internally in the tranny to where it's not equalizing with the outside air and has a high pressure within... ( i kinda laugh at myself for this one, but I am at a loss over the source of this)
Question. I have never used propane to find vacuum leaks. I always use starter fluid. I understand propane is better but how nuch do you use? Low volume, or a lot of propane. I just don't want to kill myself.
View 14 RepliesI took my MINI Cooper (not S!) in last week for a routine oil change. While they were in there, they found that the coolant overflow tank was empty, so they check the coolant take and found that it was leaking from the seals that seal the reservoir where the supercharger would be if my car was an S. So I had them go ahead and replace the seals, which required 6 hours of work because to get to the seals they had to take apart half of the engine, or so I am told. I'm still not entirely sure where this seals are...
This weekend my boyfriend noticed some sort of liquid pooling on the driveway, and upon further inspection my MINI has leaked LOTS of oil. I checked the oil level and it was about a centimeter from the bottom of the dipstick on Saturday, and by Sunday there was only a drop on the end. I called the towing company and had them tow the car back to the shop where the coolant work was done.
My questions are these: What could cause an oil leak of this size? Could they have hit something while repairing the seals that would have caused this? Should I argue with them if they say it is something unrelated? Am I being taken for a ride?
I have an 02 extended cab F150 and whenever it rains the rear window leaks (it doesnt have a slider, it's solid) and the half doors leak too... i sealed the back window with caulk to try and fix it and it worked for about 2 storms and then it started to leak again. The side doors leak at the seam where they meet the front doors... Should i order new seals for the windows? or is there a simpler way to do it that isnt as expensive..
View 9 RepliesI've had a 0401 code on my truck for the last two years. I've replaced the EGR valve and the dpfe sensor a couple of times, with fomoco parts. Ive also cleaned out the egr tube that comes off the exhaust manifold. In this time I also discovered a couple of vacuum leaks and replaced those. I changed the pcv valve, tried running 93 octane gas, and had a mechanic friend run a special smoke through the vacuum lines to find more leaks. Also put a brand new gas cap. I have an obd computer and cleared the code repeatedly but the light always returns.
View 14 Repliesso new motor new intake , rear passenger side decides to leak when roughly about 10 degrese or lower and being -13 yesterday and-18 this morning.
last year it did this n i put a nother hose clamp on that rear tube and just happened to stop . n now back but the ting is that its not wet at all at the hose but at top of head bottom intake hmm . this is all just during the initial start of truck stops even before truck really gets warm
if i tke it off n its messed up i hope its warrentied even though i painted it. if fine i guess add some gasket maker ?