Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Code 402 And Oil Pressure Drops
Dec 12, 2012
I've got a '98 F150.throwing codd 402, excessive flow EGR, also the oil pressure drops to absolute zero only when gear shifts but comes right back up. No knocking or other distress sounds in engine. I know I'm in need of an oil change. I already searched a bit and decided to swap out the DPFE sensor which I did purchase from the dealership. No code as of yet but what could that pressure drop be? Could a simple il change and filter fix that?
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I have a 2003 4.6l f150 164000 miles. While back oil pressure dropped to 0. Then chattering. Then up then down. I changed the oil and filter, then flushed the motor, then changed the oil and filter again. 1500 miles, no problems, no chatter. Then all of a sudden it happens again. Oil level good and clean. Oil pump?Pick up tube?
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I have an 01 F150 Lariat Supercrew 4x4 with the 5.4 Triton. The truck has 222,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed that when I am stopped at a stop light/stop sign while in gear, the oil pressure gauge drops to zero and the light comes on. As soon as I let off the brake and give it gas, it pops back up to normal. While driving, the needle never moves and stays consistent until I stop again, and back down to zero it goes.
If I put the truck in Park, the pressure goes back to normal. Same with neutral. It seems it is hit or miss and does not do this all the time, but I just wanted to see what your thoughts are. After doing some research I am leaning towards an oil pressure sensor/sending unit.... The truck runs perfectly fine, I just want to make sure it is not something more serious.
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How do you get to the oil pressure switch on a 1998 F150 4x4? I can see it over the top of the front axle but can't find any way to get my hand in to unplug the sensor wire. Do you have to unbolt and drop the axle down a couple of inches?
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I was driving home last night and when I stopped at a light in town, I notice the oil pressure dropped and the light came on. So I pulled over and put in park to check my oil. As I put in park the pressure went back up. I dropped it back into gear and it went back down. What could be causing this? I check my oil and it was full. I also notice when I put it in gear and speed up the pressure goes back up and stays there till I slow down again.
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1998 F150, XL, 4.6, auto 138k miles. Idles perfect, give it gas 1 time, fine. Second time it sputters. Third time it sounds awful but will Idle perfect. Put in drive, bucks, sputters, jumps, and damn near dies. Threw code P1747 EPC solenoid. Next day truck runs perfect check engine light goes out. Two weeks go by starts to sputter again and check engine light comes back on. Bad ECM?
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I am still battling a p0171 code on my 2000 f150 5.4. I checked the fuel pressure at idle it sits at 31. I remove the vacuum line off the regulator it goes to 41. When i give it throttle when in gear it will maintain at 30. And when I shut the vehicle off completely it will maintain 38. Just looking to see if this is correct numbers. I was trying to determine a weak fuel pump.
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I have a 98 F150 4.2L with code P0301 Cylinder 1 Misfire.
This is what I have done so far. New plugs, coil pack, plug wires, TPS, EGR, EGR Vacuum control regualier, DMCP, canister, all of these parts are new and was bought from the ford place. Have taken the egr value, and egr value bracket off to see if carbon blockage was present, but it was clean. It was clean in the motor also. Have blown air through the metal tube that connects to the egr value and it come out the tail pipe very good, so no blockage their. Have cleaned throtle body and injectors. Have tested fuel injector with tester and it works correctly. Motor holder pressure. Have correct fuel pressure.
Do not have any vacuum leaks, it holds vacuum correctly. Crankshaft sensor is fine. Went throw 4 cans of break parts cleaner, spraying on intake while motor was running, motor did not idle up or change. I have done all this and it still shows code P0301, and it still skips. Here's the catch, if you unplug the vaccum off the egr the misfire goes away, or unplug the EGR vacuum control regulator it goes away, or if you unplug the DMCP sensor it goes away, it does not matter witch one you unplug, the misfire goes away.
I have had several different test done the the truck, but all the test only show that one code P0301, they do not show any other codes, or problem's with my truck.
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My son bought his first truck, 1998 Ford F150 Supercab 4.6L Auto. (Proud of Him)
Salvage Flood Title, looks like engine been replaced. (Not so proud of him).
Anyway, vehicle seems to run and drive fine, however, failed emissions test.
P0125 Code pops up, Temp Gauge is not working, pegs all the way hot after truck is running, changed out Both ECT's in front of engine, one is right beside the other, I guess one goes to PCM and other to Gauge.
Now Gauge is reading all the way cold, let run for over 30 minutes and still shows nothing on Gauge...
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P0306 (ok #6 missfire) with P0171 & P0174 --- Do I chase electrical or fuel or both. Afraid to assume anything but probably would normally address the misfire electrical first.... Don't want to go down that 'primrose path' if others have been there first!
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My 4.2L died all of a sudden, it cranks but won't start. Checked the harness side to coil packs, pos. signal but no neg. Tried a code reader keeps coming back link error. Does this mean PCM is fried?
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I have an 03 Explorer that had a starting issue. Long story short, it had no fuel pressure. So after testing the relay, I switched out the pump with an Airtex unit . All seemed fine...for a while.
Became hard to start again, checked Schrader valve with the key on, and not running, no pressure. Strange though, it would run.
So got the fuel pressure gauge on it. Turn the key and pressure will go to about 5-10psi and then drop to zero. Turn key off and on again, up to 5-10psi, then drop to zero. Turn the key to start and pressure goes up to 10psi, then starts, then goes to 30 while running and you can drive it around. Shut off motor and pressure goes down to zero.how the sending unit is supposed to hold fuel pressure and not release it? Is there some kind of check valve in the sending unit assembly that can be cleaned or does it need a whole sending unit with another pump? I already spent the $100 for the pump, and it is working if you can drive it!
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I have had several issues getting to where I am now. The Neutral safety switch (MLPS) is new. The tranny has been rebuilt with new TC installed as well. The truck shifts out fin 1-2-3-4 until I hit 57mph. At 57 the od drops out and will not reengage until I drop down below that speed. I ran a diagnostic test on the TPS with my multi-meter and it all was in range on the voltages and was smooth through throttle movement etc.
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So my 99 F150 never got great MPG, but at least she was between 12 and 14 pretty consistently. However, she's spent a lot of time sitting, and now the MPG is right at 8. 9 or higher would be shocking. Any guess as to why this is? I know that engines need to be run now and again, but I can't beat 20+ MPG in my car and 40+ on my motorcycle, so she sits. I try to take her out once a month for a good drive to get everything heated up and moving and to burn any condensation that got in the oil. She's got fresh oil (not even 500 miles and 6 months), clean air filter, and fresh plugs and wires. I've also treated the gas with Sta-Bil at the proper mixture.
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'97 F150 4.6L 4wd automatic... My gauge jumps around, sometimes it works and other times it shows no pressure. Could that be the oil pump? Or is the gauge most likely bad? Whats the actual purpose of an oil sending unit?
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So I have a 1997 ford f150 v8 4.6 2w... I got codes p0171 and 174 my truck seems fine till the idle drops, it's weird when I have it on park it's fine if I turn the wheel left the idle drops when the ac turns on the idle drops and it's wasting crazy gas. Where should I start first in finding this problem?
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1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
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I have a 2004 Explorer 4.0L v6 that I recently charged the AC in. The engine was rebuilt not to long ago so the AC was completely recovered (bought it from a friend), so I know I started fresh. I am not by any means a novice mechanic but, just dabbling into the AC world and have watched a ton of how to videos, and what not.
I went out and bought a set of manifold gauges as well as a vacuum pump. I do have the rear air on this one so it takes (correct me if im wrong) 56oz of refrigerant. I pulled a vacuum of 28 (mercury?) and it held it for a good hour so, I am pretty sure no leaks. I went ahead and charged the system... Compressor kicked on like normal, air got cold, and everything seemed to be going just like it should be. I went by just a random r134a ambient pressure chart NOT from ford.
I thought great this is going to be like new! Well, now the problem i'm having is in the mornings at say 65-85 degrees it blows ice cold. Once the sun gets higher in the sky, and it gets up to 95-100, it doesn't seem to be able to keep up, even driving for miles and miles. I noticed the rear air evaporater low side, doesn't seem to feel very cold either. Does this mean I might be over charged/under charged?
I have a video of the pressures at 2000 RPM, AC set to "max", both front and rear fans set to highest setting, windows down. At 31 seconds, the pressure drop is because I let off the throttle and let it idle for a bit, so you can see those pressures.
Copy of 04 explorer ac status - YouTube....
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2004 Lariat. Ford F150, 5.4 Triton. Whenever I slow down, stop, or turn my truck will read low oil pressure, then all my gauges drops and it stalls out. I've taken it to my mechanic twice now. And twice he's replaced two sensors. Today I took it to Wal-Mart for an oil change and they said its probably why my check engine light is on code, T19. I've had that light on for 4 years now and this stalling out problem starts 3 months ago. So far its had regular oil changes, new air filter, two new sensors and im scraping money to throw at it. Hitting snow banks, other vehicles, and tree's... need to find the real problem before I go broke or worst kill someone in an accident.
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I am having a problem with my 1998 F150 4x4. The 4WD is not engaging. It is a manual shift. I have checked the transfer case by turning the drive shaft in 2WD it is free. When I shift into 4WD it is does not spin freely. So I believe that is OK. I have checked the vaccum diaphram. It will move the piston when I attach a hose and pull vacuum on the inboard hose barb. So I believe the diaphram it self is OK. I am not sure if the hoses and selenoids are OK. They look fine. However there is a constant vacuum on the inboard hose line (red/pink color) wether I am in 4WD or not. Is this OK? How can I check the selenoids. If all this is OK, the next thing I believ it could be is the shift fork in the differential. Is that a difficult job? Do you need to pull the whole axle out to replace it?
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Just bough a '98 F150, 4.6L; drove it home and it ran great, lots of impressive power etc... Parked it my shop and getting it ready for safety check so I can register it. All I did was change the oil, oil filter and air filter.
Couple weeks have gone by, I went to start it and it does start & idles beautiful but it will not rev. I give it gas and it's like it's choking / wants to die. The signal lights are flashing super fast which I don't recall doing before. Battery wasn't holding charge so I installed a new one tonight; no difference. Alternator is good.
I have not checked the plugs yet because I don't think that would be the cause of an overnight change from running excellent to what it is now but I will check them.
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