Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Bogs Down When Floor It Then Goes Up To About 3000 RPM
Nov 6, 2013
I have a ford f150 supercab XLT with the 4.6L triton. It starts and idles absolutely fine but when i push the gas to fast(when in park) it bogs down. I just changed the fuel filter aslo...No change.
If I floor it it Bogs then goes up to about 3000rpm (about halfway) and has trouble moving over that RPM or halfway. like theres a restriction of some sort.
If I gradually push the gas, it will go up in rpms and i can get it to about 2000 rpms then I can tack the rpm gauge out if I wanted. but never do.
Also when driving, it seems as if its lacking power..and just to add it does all this stuff while in gear also..
When running It smells of an exhaust leak. but I cant find one. And I cant smell it in the cab.
So there it is. If I think of anything else, or do anything. I will keep posting.
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1998 F150 XLT 4.6l automatic,,,
Drove the truck on a trip the other day, about 650 miles with a loaded 5x8 trailer in tow. A/C started acting weird. When the truck was on level ground, or going down hill, the A/C was fine. Cold air coming out the correct dash vents. As soon as I started up hill, or put the truck under strain of acceleration, the A/C would stop blowing out the dash vents and would start coming out the floor or defrost vents, or just not come out anywhere.
When I turned the A/C off and just used the vent setting, it would do the same thing with the fresh air. I guessing this has something to do with my vacuum lines, somewhere. What I should be looking for and where?
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2002 F-150 4.2L. About a year ago, it threw the P0171 and 0174 codes up. After replacing all the simple stuff, I bit the bullet and replaced the lower intake gasket as well as the upper intake gaskets. Buttoned it all up, reset the codes and we were back in business. No issues, truck ran good. About 6-8 months later, the check engine light came back on, I check it and it was that pesky set of codes again, 0171 and 0174.
It still ran fine, but the codes were there, so I just drove it for a while (it's a company truck that doesn't get driven that much).
A couple of weeks ago while driving it, it acted very sluggish. You could mash the accelerator and it would just very slowly run up the speed. It never hesitated or missed, it just got very very sluggish. Checked the codes, no additional codes.
Then it began to stumble when you mashed the gas.
I put new plugs (old one's looked great, other than a huge gap), new wires, new coil pack and started it. Pushed the gas pedal, it just dies.
I look for obvious vacuum leaks and replace a couple of elbows for the PCV and it seems to run a little better. Enough so that I can drive it, but still not running right.
I ordered all the intake gaskets and new isolator bolts and spend Saturday pulling that apart. I didn't do the lower intake because the upper intake gaskets looked so good, I just don't believe this is a intake gasket problem. None the less, I installed the new gaskets on the plenum and upper intake, new isolator bolts, replaced a couple pieces of vacuum hose that looked cracked, started it back up, it ran as smooth as silk.
Convinced I had it fixed, I went for a test drive. Idling, it is as smooth as you could ask for. Pull up to a stop sign, wait, step on the gas and it chokes. Just stumbles and you can hear it almost backfiring and pushing air back through the system.
I've put new PCV, new EGR, new vacuum lines in several places, new upper intake gaskets, new plenum gaskets, new isolator bolts, and even new o-rings on the injectors, and I'm still getting the 0171 and 0174 codes.
With the diagnostics on, I can see voltage varying on all O2 sensors, so I assume they are working (none of them are reading 0 volts). It doesn't throw any other code up, other than the 0171 and 0174.
At this point I feel like I'm replaced every single thing ever mentioned in any 0171 and 0174 thread on the internet. Where to go next? 1 more point, if you very slowly push the gas, it runs fine, but any pressure on it, it bogs down and just stumbles.
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Had it before, code p1401. Changed out dpfe and it worked for 6 months. Now spark knock again. Now though I have no codes though. No vacuum leaks that I can find. New egr from before I had the problem. I applied vacuum to the green hose and it stumbled so the ports should be ok. Snytime I go above 3000 rpm i get the pinging. I replaced the dpfe again and no difference.
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So.... here's my issue. I have a 2001 supercrew 5.4 and runs great all day long, no problem starting or anything. After I have driven it for a while and turn the AC on it cools off very good then after about a 1/2hr. the truck tries to stall. It almost sounds like a vacuum leak and really bogs down. I can wait about 2hrs and then with the AC off the truck starts and drives like it should. I am steering to the IAC valve but would like to know if this is it.
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I've got a 2000 f150 with a 5.4 and 135,000 miles. The other day it was driving fine then i stopped and got gas and after that it was boggy and running rough so i thought bad gas but i ran through that gas and got more at a different store. The cel came on i got it checked it was misfire cylinder 1 so i put new cop, spark plug, and injector. Unhooked the battery and then the light came back on so i ran the code and now im getting a p0171. I checked the pcv and sprayed around the intake and vacuum lines. I also checked the pcv hose and elbow in the back and i found nothing its a fairly new hose. So, it does run rough it shutters a lot.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 with the 4.6 Motor approx 150000miles. Transmission went out so I decided to try and replace it...
New/rebuilt tranny went in with no problem but something is not right. It will drive but seems like it is stuck in high gear and bogs the motor down. It is giving me error codes P1747, P0750, P0755, P0743, P0102. All the wiring harness is in good shape with no burns or other noticeable problems. Somehow the transmission isn't reading right?
When I bought this rebuilt transmission I was told it was set up for 2wd but he would convert it for 4wd. The only difference i noticed with the new tranny is the shaft coming out of the tranny, where the safety neutral switch is, has a diamond shape instead of the oval shape that connects the shifter cable. No big deal i think, just had to buy a new link for the shifter cable with the diamond.
Also on the passenger side of the tranny there is a nine pin plug. My wire harness from the truck has one pin hole that is opposite of the tranny. Not sure why. Do I need a new harness or wrong tranny?
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I have a 2002 Ford F-150 with a 5.4 Triton. 212,xxx miles. I replaced the cops and the plugs about 6 months ago. I was pulling a trailer up hill last week and the engine was under a load doing about 3000rpm. It began to misfire and give me a flashing mil. However, before I went very far the engine began to run fine. It happened 3-4 different times. However, there is no code recorded. I've driven the truck nearly 100 miles with no problems, but I'm going to be pulling that trailer uphill again next week.
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I have a 2002 SuperCrew 4x4 that makes a squealing sound that starts at 3000 rpm and slowly goes away as it approaches 4000 rpm. It does this when you are in park or in gear. I believe the torque converter is going bad, but just want to make sure before I tear it all down.
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I have a 1997 f 150 4.6l, 145k miles, it seems that very slowly it is loosing coolant but i haven't noticed any leaks, it also burn about a quart of oil every 3000 miles but i was told that was normal?
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I bought a 97 f150 4x4 last week. I was cleaning the frame up with a wire brush on a grinder and accidently cut one of the front brake lines. Seeing how this truck has only 100k on it and all oem stuff on it, I decided to replace the front brake components, calipers, pads, rubber and steel lines. Got it all back together and bleed the air out of the front brakes. But the pedal still goes to the floor. I can pump them up with the key off but when i turn it on the pedal goes to the floor. I did not bleed the back brakes becasue I assumed that the master cylinder would be divided and independent of each other- back and front. So it this just that the back brakes needs bled or do I have another issue like bad booster- everything was working well before I cut the line?
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I have a 2003 F-150 supercrew 4x4, was having problems with the brake pedal going to the floor, had replaced the front calipers, master cylinder and the brake booster. I have blead everything out including the rear calipers even though I didn`t touch them, the truck stops but the pedal isn't what it used to be, even when the truck is off the pedal has a tendency to go down, there is nothing leaking and not losing fluid, don`t know what else to do?
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I have been having with my ford ranger. I bought this off my nephew bcuz he needed some money and never drove it due to it being a 5speed and he has a kid and a wife and no room. OK the issue I am having is in gear or neutral I can't get the 2.5 motor over 3000rpms in any gear at all. If you rev the engine up or r driving it when it hits between 2900-3000 rpms the motor acts as if it is going to die and looses all power until you let off the gas. I have replaced the following items on the truck. Oh by the way I have a Cam 2 hand held and there are no codes or warning lights. All new parts :
1) new fuel pump
2) fuel filter
3)new timing belt
4)new motor craft platinum plugs
5) new motor craft plug wires
6)new Mass air flow meter
7) clutch,pressure plate & throw out bearing along with new slave(that needed it replaced others since I was there)
8) exhaust tube behind motor(rotted out)
9) new idle control sensor (acts as elect. Choke)
Truck starts up real quick and idles fine, but when truck is cold the rpms @ 2500 does the same as when it is warm @ 3000 rpms. I even took it to the local ford dealer in my town. Youngstown oh @ Fred martin ford. They told me the wires should be replaced and plugs along with mass air flow valve. I called them after replacing it and told them no difference and the service manager told me to bring it in again and they will look again. Service manager told me he has never heard of this type of problem and I went to a local garage mentioned it to the lead mechanic. He said that is why he doesn't like fords they are to common in chronic problems and can't be fix without a lot of guess work. I have a Hanes manual and did everything it recommends to no avail.
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The brake pedal intermittently goes to the floor on my nephew's 2003 F150 without grabbing at all. Pumping the brakes restores them, then they act normally for a while. I've replaced the master cylinder with a new Motorcraft unit, no change. No ABS codes. All rubber lines are in good shape. I'm stumped, although I suspect the ABS system somehow. I'm going to have him pull the ABS fuse and see if the problem goes away.
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Alright so I got ripped off on a truck that I just bought. Among all the other issues the main one is the bed. The side panels and tailgate are immaculate but the floor is shot. I read in another thread how everyone patched the holes but my issue goes much deeper. Even the bed frame is shot. Is there any way I can get a piece of steel cut to size and put new pieces for the frame and just weld it together? Id hate to have to buy a whole new bed because I am short on cash trying to start school and doing other repairs to what I thought was gonna be a perfect truck. It has the 6.5ft "Styleside" or flareside bed.
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Drove to work in 6" of snow in 4H with no issues. Shifted back into 2H for drive home as roads were clear with no issues. Went to shift into 4H moments ago and floor shifter will not move!
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I have a 99 F150, Regular cab, long bed, with a weird brake problem. With the engine off, the pedal goes firm about 3 inches. But when you start it, the pedal goes to the floor.
I've replaced the master cylinder, and bled the heck out of the 4 wheel cylinders. No soap. The pedal goes nearly to the floor, and does not "pump up".....but does stop the truck.
The ABS light is "on".
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2002 F-150 4x4 w/ 5.4 v-8. Brake pedal goes half way to floor before it starts to stop the vehicle. I have replaced and bled the master cylinder, bled out all of the calipers, and the calipers are installed correctly because the bleeder screws are at the top on all of them so no air can be trapped up there. The truck seems to stop fine, but just takes more pedal to get it to start stopping than I'm comfortable with. Could the ABS unit need bled out too? Or could it be an adjustment issue with the booster rod?
Also, something else I noticed, and it may be related..the ABS unit usually makes a slight clanking sound (like someone kicking a metal garbage can) a couple seconds after the key is turned on. I know its the ABS unit because a couple weeks ago I had a friends scanner hooked up to the truck, and I went into the ABS computer to clear the codes (have ABS light on from what I found to be a bad sensor wire on the front drivers side according to the scanner) and as soon as i cleared the codes on the ABS, it made that sound. I don't know if maybe there is something wrong with the ABS actuator, or if it's related to the brake pedal issue.
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I have a 2000 SCrew KR F150. A couple of weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal was slowly going to the floor while at a red light. I pulled over and popped the hood checked the fluid reservoir. It was full, so obviously no wheel cylinder issues or fluid loss. I haven't had a chance to tear into it yet.
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4x4 wont work, when I shift the lever on the floor it doesn't engage so i bought two new solenoids.. didn't work, have power on both solenoid connections. If I unhook my vacuum lines from the solenoid, I can push the Actuator rod in making my 4x4 work. I've gone threw everything.. have vacuum, have power on my solenoids. Just nothing works when I shift into 4x4 on the floor.
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Last week my brake pedal started going to the floor when I stopped, it still stopped and felt fine on the top half of the pedal travel but then it would just slowly fade to the floor. I took it to a local shop and they said the master cylinder was leaking internally and my rear brakes were shot. I have 75,000 miles and the rear brakes were original so I told them to fix it. This is basically what I expected it to be.
They kept thinking they were getting defective master cylinders but after the two Napa parts and two Carquest parts they realized they misdiagnosed it and said I needed to take it to the dealership. I paid for the rear brake job since it needed done anyways and have an appointment for next week at the dealership. What might be causing the problem? I see no brake fluid leaks, no vacuum leaks, the booster was replaced 25,000 miles ago due to noise, no ABS light on, no CEL on, no other symptoms.
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