Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Battery Light Only Off Over 2400 Rpm - Humming Noise Form Background - Alternator?
Aug 21, 2016
Vehicle is 1998 F150 with 194k. The battery is 1 1/2 yrs old and belts and alternator are original.
Yesterday morning my VHF and dog tracking eqipment started humming with the truck running. The hum on the tracking eqpt. only happened when I pointed the antennae over the direction of the hood with truck running. When I shut truck off everything is normal. Later in the day the battery light came on. The battery light would go off if I kept it over 2400 rpm's. The charge on the dash was normal but as I got closr to home last night it dropped to almost nothing and the lights were very dim.
I am thinking alternator. What I am confused about is the humming noise in the background. The tracking eqpt. is completely separate from the truck while the VHF is direct to the battery with an iline fuse. Bad voltage regulator?
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I have a 1998 f150. Was driving down the road the other night and the truck loses all power. I have replaced the alternator and the battery loght stayed on. So, I took both old and new altrrnator to parts store and had them both tested and they bith passed. Is this a commomn issue?
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The other day the battery light came on. Of course the useless "gauge" still reads normal but that is another rant.
Checked voltages today:
Battery reads 12.0 volts key off, 11.83 key on, engine off, 11.65 engine running.
Obviously discharging and I am guessing it is the alternator. Do these trucks have an external regulator that may have failed or is it in the alternator? I'd hate to spend $150-200 for an alternator only to find out it doesn't solve the problem.
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1998 F150 4.6 automatic.
Had problems with battery light. Was intermittent. Battery cables wouldn't stay tight, replaced them, light stayed off. Light back on now, constant. Battery reads 12.5ish off, 14.3ish running under load (lights, AC, etc.).
When truck is started, even cold, it doesn't rev up the RPM's and then die down to idle speed. It just goes straight to around 550rpm and surges slightly up and down between there and 650ish. Can these be related?
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My alternator went out last week. I installed a new alternator, battery and serpentine belt. However, the battery is still dying. So far I checked the continuity on the fusible link and it appears to be good. I also checked fuse number 11 which provides power to the voltage regulator. The fuse is not blown. The voltage at the battery while it is running is less than 12 volts and it drops the longer it runs. I also have codes b1318, b1932, c 1226, and c1284.
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I have a 98 f150 4.6 v8. when i start driving and i hit about 40 my truck doesn't want to shift, i have to take my foot off the gas, let it shift then apply the gas again. if i don't it shifts real hard or the RPM's go real high. and then every so often my overdrive off light blinks. it shifts in and out of overdrive ok though.
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The past few weeks the dashboard warning light for my alternator/battery will occasionally light up while driving down the road. Whenever it does, my plug in voltage meter shows a healthy 14.x reading. It usually goes out after a few seconds, but will stay lit up for as much as thirty seconds. So other than voltage being too high or too low, what else will cause the dash trouble light to illuminate?
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Alternator locked up in a parking lot. Replaced it and had to replace pigtail due to a loose wire in the harness. Now battery light comes on intermittently. New alternator is doing fine producing anywhere from 13.9v to. 14.4v. No output voltage correlation to battery light at all. The belt is still in great shape so I don't suspect slipping. Fortunately I caught the old one locking up almost immediately and had recently replaced the belt. Output voltage looks great. Are there any fuses for alternator?
Only thing I can think of that I did...when splicing in the pigtail that connects to the alternator, I briefly grounded whatever wire in the pigtail is hot. Was just a split second, but enough to see a spark and maybe enough to blow a fuse? I've seen people reference an "under hood" fuse box, but I don't seem to have one. My truck is a 2002 CC with just over 100k on the clock.
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Had a bad alternator, changed it, and now the battery lite stays on all the time..Changed the alternator again with a known good one, and the light is still on all the time..
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I drive a '99 F150 4x4 5.4 EFI 196,000 miles. Recently I started noticing a growling noise that followed engine speed. I immediately thought alternator going out. So I pulled the belt off and it spins free and doesn't feel rough at all.
So I started it up and realized the noise got a lot louder when the ac clutch cycled. Now I'm thinking ac compressor. A short trip to my mechanic who didn't even really look at it very long and he said the compressor is about ready to seize up. I thought I might just put on an ac bypass pulley to get by for a while. Not really a sound decision in the middle of July, I'm thinking, but I'm poor and it beats having the compressor lock up, right?
Today, when I get off work and pop the hood with the ac off and the clutch not engaged the noise is worse than ever. I put a stethoscope (long screwdriver, I told you I was poor) on the alternator and it is making all of the noise. Turned the ac on again and it was really making noise now. So I applied the stetho-driver to the ac compressor and it is quiet as can be.
I am cautiously optimistic that the alternator is the sole culprit and that it only gets louder when the ac cycles because of the extra drag on the belt.
Does that seem like a logical explanation? Should I just try the alternator? I really don't want to destroy a perfectly functioning ac system only to find out that it was OK to begin with and I don't want to buy a $150 alternator for no reason either.
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Alternator warning lite comes on at idle rpm. Speed up rpm lite goes out. The gauge shows alternator is charging. Autozone checked it for me it is putting out 11 to 11.5amps running. Should be putting out around 13 amps, right? alternator bad?
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Noticed the other day when I was driving on the highway my truck started humming when I was accelerating past 30. From a dead stop to 30 its fine, but after it starts humming. Its only when I have my foot on the pedal. When I let off, it stops. The sound is coming from the rear/under.
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Finish a job yesterday and go to start my 98 F-150...4.6 and get the dreaded click. All has been fine. Firewall relay clicking, so crawl underneath in the slop and snow and the main battery wire corroded off the starter solenoid. Go back up top and turn the key to run position, crawl back underneath and short that wire to the other main terminal that feeds the 12 volts into the starter. Truck starts right up. That gets me home, I found a 4 gauge lug in my electrical stuff, clean up the wire and crimp it on ( actually a smoosh with a vice-grip cause my crimper won't get in there and trying to solder in that position wasn't gonna' work). Replacing that cable and how hard was it to pull it out of that loom that it shares with other wires? I was thinking just run a separate cable in a new loom and zip tie it to the other loom? I was guessing it is 2 gauge? Looks like about 4' would be enough to go from the battery to the starter.
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First off I have a 1997 F-150 4.6 with 205,000 miles on it.. stock engine and tranny. It's been a great truck and never given me any major problems. But recently something under the hood (wish i could be more specific) makes a really loud HUMMING noise (almost sound like a trumpet). For example- say im driving on the highway and i let off the gas, this humming noise will appear and it is very loud, but right when i give the engine some gas the humming goes away.
Or also when I am driving through town, when i come to a stop light, let off the gas to apply the breaks, this humming noise will come about. what i have to do is stick the truck in neutral and give it a big rev (which i do like hearing my exhaust so it isn't always annoying) and then it stops. note though, it doesnt happen every single time i let off the gas, however it is pretty frequent.
do yall think this is in the air intake system? thatd be my only guess because when i rev the engine it quits, but one thing is it sounds like it comes more from the passenger side of the truck, and it seems to occur more often when the temperature outside is cold. im completely stumped by this one, ive never heard anything like it.
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I just installed a cold air intake on my 01 f150 with a 5.4 and as soon as i started it after the install there is a loud humming coming from the intake but with some throttle it goes away. ive looked around on some of the other threads that suggest the iac valve usually causes this humming noise but why would it go bad with the install?? also i broke iac breather trying to remove it from the old hose to install with the new hose so i just connected the new hose directly to the inlet behind the intake until i can get another one to replace it. could this be causing the humming as well??
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I have a quick question, I just replaced the head gaskets on my 4.6 with 301,000 miles on it and now my battery only charges when you punch it and when you lift off the gas pedal, in town it does fine, but on drives 25 miles on the highway the battery guage goes to the line on the bottom. What could be causing that?
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My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
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2002 Ford Focus SE with 130k miles on it. For the past 4 months the battery light flashes randomly while driving. The flashing and frequency of flashing doesn't seem related to anything I can tell including temperature, length of time the car is running, speed or any variable. Seems like it should be an alternator, but that was replaced less than an year ago and it also has a new battery. The alternator always checks out fine at the mechanic and it will never flash for the mechanic. It went 1 month with no flashing and suddenly it will now flash maybe 20 times in a 5 mile drive. Yesterday it just died at a stoplight with no warning, but then after shutting everything off it started just fine and the battery light didn't turn on for the 2 miles to home.
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I have a 2002 with a 4.8 ... My alternator started to make some noise, and my battery wasn't holding a charge very well so i decided to change the alternator today before it went some were out in the boonies. After i put the new alternator in, the battery light started flashing in the "message center" but everything seems to be running fine. The voltage gauge in the dash is reading about 15. So from there I turned everything on in the truck and the gauge barely dropped. At this point I'm not sure what to do, I'm going to put the old one back on and see if it goes out, oh I also put some tension on the belt to make sure it wasn't slipping.
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Patching cracks of the rear window frame? I am talking about the actual glass casing assembly and the cracks are viewable from inside the cab of the truck. I've found two small cracks and that is exactly where the water will stream in.
I was just about to pull the rear window out to replace the butyl seal when I pinpointed the cracks. So is it possible to use some RTV, form a gasket, or JB weld or something else to patch these cracks?
Are the sliding rear windows more prone to cracking? If so I'll probably replace the assembly with a solid rear window. Where I should purchase a replacement window?
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2001 f150 xl with 151800 miles 5.4l had it for a few years now I get a humming type groaning coming from up front. only when in 4x4 and only at lets say 25 mph to 45 mph .seems to be worse when slowing down especially the slower you get then around 20 or 25 its gone. it is still quite noticeable on acceleration and after 45 its gone. Truck has always been a little noise while in 4x4 weather it was an issue that had already started or if that's how it is. This is my first 4x4 truck.
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