Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - Adding Brake Controller?
Apr 29, 2013
I'm in the process of putting a brake controller and 7 pin plug in on my 98 F150 Super Cab, 4x4, 4.6 L with a auto trans. Got the Tekonsha Voyager hooked up to the existing harness under the dash. I have the 7 pin installed out back and thats where my problem begins. The 7 pin harness came with 3 30amp fuses and 2 relays that need to be placed in the power distribution box under the hood. I can figure out where the fuses go but my manual says nothing about the relays. The relays that are already in the box are for things like fuel pump etc.
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I just bought a 2000 Excursion limited v10 4x4. I'm going camping this weekend so trying to install my brake controller. I found the plug but noticed these wires dangling. I can't see the back of the harness. I'm afraid the PO may have cut them to install a universal harness. How to recognize them? I don't want to buy a ford specific harness if the wiring has been cut.
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I have a Derale 16749 electric fan controller set up had a fan die, went back to a old set up using a fan shroud I made and sable fans being the controller isn't set up to handle the load from these fans I want to just add relays in. Way the derale is set up to the fan is 12v. constant but the ground is also a 12v. until the switch reaches temp. then becomes a ground. I am not concerned with wiring the low side up on these fans just high side.
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I have a 1998 F 150 extended cab and the brake pedal is low. The front calipers and rotors were replaced last year because the left front caliper froze on and smoked the pads. I also replaced the brake booster and master cylinder because the brake booster showed signs of leaking vacuum. The whole system has been bled completely twice. After each bleed, the pedal was high and firm.
I have not found any sign of leakage and the fluid level looks ok and unchanged. The rear brakes look ok, but no work on them in last few years. Mileage is 198k. I had to hit the brakes hard on a muddy road a few weeks ago and the truck stopped straight, so the ABS seems ok. The problem is that the pedal has dropped down a few inches from where it was then the system was bled out. What to check next?
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Brake lights do not work. The turn signals work, the flashers work, and the running lights (head lights) work. I checked the bulbs and both filaments light up during the above processes.
I removed the brake switch at the pedal. When I was removing it, I heard some clicking under the dash. I connected the 2 pins with a wire (bypassing the switch), and got a spark a few times along with the clicking sound like a relay,and the brake lights would come on, but now nothing. No sparks, no clicking. The flashers and turn signals and running lights still work.
There are no blown fuses in the fuse box to the left of the steering column. Is there a relay somewhere under the dash just for the brake lights?
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having problem w/ 98 f-150. first truck stuck in park. figured out how to get around that (turn key 1 position, shift to neutral, start vehicle, then engage transmission). but no brake lights! I have turn signals, driving lights, hazards, etc in rear. I disconnected harness from brake light switch. there are 2 leads, 1 hot, 1 not. i jumped them and no brake lights. i tested the switch and it functions properly (it's reconnected now). i changed my bulbs in tail lights. I unplugged the solenoid (which is impossibly located behind/beside steering column). this allowed me to shift like an old truck (without having to brake first), but doesn't solve my lack of brake lights (i've reattached the solenoid harness to remind me of my problems).
i am putting my money on a broken wire somewhere between the brake light switch (b/c that was good) and the solenoid (i am not hearing that faint click when i step on brake). but a broken wire should work by accident some of the time (unless cut cleanly and completely). there is a green wire with red stripe leaving the brake light switch and 3 wires at the solenoid harness (1 green and maybe a smaller gauge than those at the switch and 2 others which i don't recall their colors). Ford service manager doesn't think it's the solenoid but wasn't otherwise useful except to say, "hey, why don't you bring it in to me." What to look for before i plunk down for someone to perform what I already have before completing the job!
can i splice a wire from something (? brake light switch?) to something (?wire in solenoid harness?) or does that "electronic signal" get processed somewhere else first?
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My brother-in-law has a 97 F-150 with 4.6L that has no heat in the cab (blows cold air no matter what setting at HVAC controller). Heater core was replaced one year ago and T-stat was replaced last night. Coolant level is full and the heater hoses are BOTH hot so I believe warm coolant is flowing through the heater core. I am thinking that the HVAC controller may be at fault or maybe the mixing door in the HVAC plenum is malfunctioning. I have 97 rangers that had a broken hinge pin for the mixing door inside the plenum (a common problem with these trucks), maybe this is the same issue (I don't know). I am taking the whole dash out to see what the trouble is.
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Is there any benefit to adding water pump lube to a 4.6L engine? There's smelly, old looking coolant in my friend's "new" 1997 F-150 so a flush is in the immediate future. I'm going to suggest using G-05 coolant over conventional green due to its longer life. Should water pump lube be added?
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I noticed the aftermarket controller in my 03 F350 is not working. I am wondering where the fuse(s) might be located. Under the hood? Are they fuses or relays?
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If your truck came with the FOB to open the doors remote, but not the keypad on the door, you can add one. Originally the keypad was hard wired and was an expensive option. Several years later the newer keypads were RF signal just like the FOB. If you have or had FOB, then you have the keyless module on the truck (mounted to firewall infront of the emergency brake).. All you have to do is buy the newer style RF keypad, stick it to the door, and program like the FOB. I just did this on a 2002 F150.
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Well I have my new 8.5x20 trailer on order that has electric brakes and I'm looking to install a brake controller. I don't like how cheesy all the aftermarket ones look and love fords factory controller and upfitter switches. Looking for info on swapping these in the excursions and had it working? I've looked on the net for this mod and came up with nothing.
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When I went to pick up my new travel trailer yesterday , the brake controller wouldn't work. Trying to diagnose this in the pouring rain is the pits. This was after closing time at the dealer so the shop guys were gone already. The sales manager drove to an auto parts store to get a fuse to try it. Worked!
I've got an assortment of blade fuses on hand, but I clearly need these too, and possibly others. I need a name for this type of fuse.
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where the airbag controller is on a 1998 1.8 Passat. I have a fault with the controller and I don't know where it is.
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Where do I plug in a brake controller on a 2008 Ford F-150. I know that it's somewhere behind the dash, but I don't know where?
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I am going to be pulling a trailer next week. I bought a raybestos voyager XP controller. I expected it to be plug and play but what I got was four wires. I have heard that there is a plug ready under the dash to plug a controller into directly. I found a gray pigtail with male ends. Is this it? Should I take controller back and get one with the correct plug or is there a harness one can buy or is a stop to my local ford dealer in the future.
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I don't seem to be able to get my trailer brakes to activate to we're I feel the working as the brakes are applied. I like the trailer to come on sooner and feel the trailer braking a bit more than the truck. I try the slide control and I have to go just about 3/4 of the way to get any braking on trailer. I had same with the 2011 and now the 2013. This a new trailer as was the previous trailer and the braking was the same. Trailer brakes are adjusted. I have it set on 10 as I did on the other truck. The other truck was 2011 and a trailer was a 2012 both new, now this set up is a 2013 trailer and 2013 truck and no difference in the two braking on the trailers. Are they all like that? I have installed brake controllers in my trucks and never had an issue not having enough adjustment for the trailer.
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My truck had power to the Brake Controller until a recent road trip and now there is no power to the controller. All fuses are good. Which circuit the power comes from?
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We just bought a 2013 Casita 17' camping trailer, which has Dexter electric brakes. The OEM brake controller in the Expy recognizes the trailer, and the electronic gain adjustment seems to work. But it does not actuate the brakes. I checked the terminal on the 7-wire connector, and the blue wire that feeds that terminal, and there is no current when we press the brake pedal. So the problem would appear to be with the Expy and not with the trailer.
I am not getting an error message on the Information Display, which the manual says I should if there is an interrupt or short. I checked the 30A fuse for the line and it looks OK, as does the fuse for the controller. So what's the problem?
The previous owner never used the electric brakes; he was actually unaware the trailer had them. The Casita is light enough that he could tow it with a Nissan Frontier V6 pickup. I was worried that the drums might be rusted and/or the brakes inoperative after not being used for three years, but I took a wheel off and adjusted one, and it would adjust to the point where I couldn't turn the drum; then I backed it off a little. Besides, there's no current at the terminal on the Expy!
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Adding a third axle to my dual axle 5th wheel toyhauler... was told I may need a different brake controller by someone on a different forum.
At first I thought they were talking about the one in the truck but I would guess the truck brake controller can handle atleast three axles worth of brakes. Now I am wondering if I have another "control box" on the camper somwhere.
I see many people pulling 3 axle trailers and I would assume you have brakes on all 3 axles. Am I good to assume the stock Ford brake controller can handle 3 axles with brakes on all of them ??
Does a trailer/toyhauler/camper have another "control box" somwhere that regulates the brakes as well ??
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I've just bought a new 2016 SD xlt. The only extra I wanted that is missing is the factory trailer brake controller. The dealer told me it had to be programmed. I was expecting plug and play and planned to do it myself till they told me that. Is this true?
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Have recently been getting a "TBC Fault" message and the Beep, as the message goes on and off(annoying) looked around think its the Controler itself,,If I move the slider, and Jiggle it,,the message Blinks on and off as I move the Slider,,,Looking for the method of removing it from the Cubby Hole,,,Gave it a tug,,,and wiggle did not move must have a Clip or Tab to release it.
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