Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 4X4 XLT Began Squeaking Recently
Feb 23, 2013
'98 F-150 4X4 XLT began squeaking recently. Have 1/2 mile long sand & limerock driveway thru mature North Florida jungle & every root'n'bump makes it squeak.
Was certain it had to be the J.C.Whitney/Owen's running board I left on passenger side. Upon close inspection, wrestling with it & popping it with big rubber mallet was surprised to find it tight & silent.
Checked bumper & associated bolts, then exhaust & everything else I could see/touch sliding under on a moving quilt.
Does not sound like bushing or ball joint. High pitch squeak, up near the annoying frequency of nails on chalk board.
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I own a 1998 ford f150 4.6l triton v8. I was leaving my house to go on a snowboarding trip about three weeks ago it was a rather warm wet day and all of the sudden my check engine light began to flash. I immediately pulled over and restarted my truck, once it was started again it was solid.
I turned around and started driving towards home. I get a small amount of feedback from my speakers and usually it's a smooth whizzing sound but as i accelerated the sound began to stutter rather than remain smooth. after about 5 minutes of driving this went away and the check engine light remained on.
so today I went out it's also a wet day and it's raining quite a lot. on my way into town everything seemed okay. then on my way home the check engine light began to flash again and the feedback from the speakers became choppy again.
I would also like to mention my battery light is on but it was on prior to the first time this happened. I'm just wondering if the belt could be loose or slipping due to the wet weather?
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It is a 1997 Ford f150 5.4 4x4 extended cab 175k miles. Took a 600 mile trip, first 300 no problems, then the "od" light began flashing, the truck shifted fine so I kept going, drove for about a 100 miles then stopped for fuel and read the code, (p1728) cleared the code and drove another 200 miles, no light no problem. The whole time there was no drivability issues. Yesterday I drove all over town, stop and go traffic, locking the TC and it would also unlock, no problems all day, drivability was fine. What to do?
1. Just keep driving it?
2. Does changing fluid fix this problem?
3. Rebuild the trans, because this was just the first notice.
4. Sell it quick no light and drives fine.?
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I have a 2001, 2wd, XLT, Super Crew with 4.6L and 180000Kms. I am the 2nd owner and have owned it for roughly 6 years. Since owning it I have towed the following: a 1500 Boat, 1000lb full utility trailer, a 2700lb boat, and most recently (Last summer) a 3500lb dry weight/4000lb full 22 foot camper trailer. None of these items ever caused me any problems til mis summer with the camper.
I have always got check engine lights for the stupid coil packs. It seems like I would replace one and a different one would go. I was camping one weekend a short hour distance from my home when I pulled onto the main highway and began to accelerate up to highway speed but it was feeling sluggish picking up to 100kph. When I merged onto the highway it was not a flat piece of ground and was a small grade of a hill, but nothing big. Before getting to the top I started to hear a strange noise, almost like a rattling, and the check engine light started to flash. After breaching the hill, it picked up speed, the light went out, and everything seemed fine.
This happened twice last summer with no other problems. At the end of the summer I once again had a check engine come on...I had blown out a plug, had it fixed and replaced 2 more COPs but still had codes showing for CC, M, F, O, OH, C, E and EV. My reader also said Freeze Frame, and MIL on. I had the truck in in Nov/Dec for an emissions test and it was given a conditional pass due to codes reading but no Check Engine light at this time.
I want to keep this truck...I will be towing the camper again, buit I'm considering getting a different truck. As it is I know I already have to have air bags installed in the rear to level out the load when towing. Hopefully that will cut back on some of the acceleration drag. At present time I have a check engine on...I'll check it again and post what its reading but most likely the same stuff.
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The right turn signal on my 1998 Ford Explorer recently stopped working. The flasher was making a horrible buzzing sound when I tried to signal right, but worked fine signaling left.
I just replaced the flasher, which has cleared up the buzzing noise when trying to signal right. The flasher clicks like it's supposed to, but the lights still do not flash.
Here's a summary of the current symptoms:
-Hazard lights work fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Left right signal indicator works fineFlasher clicks; interior indicators flash; exterior lights flash
-Right turn signal does not work
-Flasher clicks
-Interior indicator stash off; exterior lights stay off
What to check next???
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1999 FORD f150 4x4 XLT
When i drive the truck straight, turn left, turn right and even backup i get a Squeaking noise coming from the front and it is loud.
When the truck is in park and i turn the wheel back and fourth it still Squeaks even inches at a time turning it i can hear the Squeaking noise.
I can have the truck shut off and i put my weight on the front bumper making it bounce up and down i can still hear the same Squeaking noise
But when i jacked up the front end and turned the wheel back and fourth the nose is gone and seems to be great.
Sounds like the Squeaking noise is coming from the driver side. What this can be?
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I have a creaking/squeaking noise in my suspension that is getting worse and worse. maybe it isn't getting worse, but it sounds worse to me everyday because I am tired of hearing it. I have swapped out my shocks and that did not do the trick. i have tried lubricating the leaf springs and all other suspension parts in there, still nothing. i was thinking about changing out the entire leaf spring package, but exactly what the problem is.
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I am buying my Dad's '99 F-150 4x4 Lariat from him and this truck squeaks something terrible. I am assuming that the chassis bushings need to be replaced. I have 2 questions.
1. Am I on the right track to solve the problem?
2. How hard is the job?
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I have a 2000 F150, 94k miles, manual transmission, 2WD
About 6 months ago a slight squeaking sound started when only backing up. Now its progressed to a sort of grinding metal on metal sound with regular driving as well as in reverse. I can hear it the most when its in gear and I take my foot off the gas. I changed the breaks, checked the wheel bearings, did a clutch test, and the u joints look fine. Something weird happened yesterday, while raining out, it didn't make a peep. My drive shaft and u joints have a layer of rust on them...could that be a cause of the noise, and it went away when wet?
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I have a 1998 Passat turbo wagon. A couple of months ago, the engine began intermittently shuddering/stuttering. The car/steering wheel vibrate when accelerated. Acceleration is very slow. It may start when started, or just driving down the road. This can last a few minutes/block or several minutes/blocks. It disappears just as quickly as it begins. My garage ran engine analysis and nothing shows. Can't do anything till they can duplicate, and I can't cause it to happen. During the occurrence, tach is at 9000 and steady. I use high octane gas. Today, while stuttering the engine just quit twice while stopped. Car has 115,000 miles and otherwise is in excellent shape mechanically (regular oil changes, etc.). What's happening?
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I am having a problem with my 1998 F150 4x4. The 4WD is not engaging. It is a manual shift. I have checked the transfer case by turning the drive shaft in 2WD it is free. When I shift into 4WD it is does not spin freely. So I believe that is OK. I have checked the vaccum diaphram. It will move the piston when I attach a hose and pull vacuum on the inboard hose barb. So I believe the diaphram it self is OK. I am not sure if the hoses and selenoids are OK. They look fine. However there is a constant vacuum on the inboard hose line (red/pink color) wether I am in 4WD or not. Is this OK? How can I check the selenoids. If all this is OK, the next thing I believ it could be is the shift fork in the differential. Is that a difficult job? Do you need to pull the whole axle out to replace it?
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Just bough a '98 F150, 4.6L; drove it home and it ran great, lots of impressive power etc... Parked it my shop and getting it ready for safety check so I can register it. All I did was change the oil, oil filter and air filter.
Couple weeks have gone by, I went to start it and it does start & idles beautiful but it will not rev. I give it gas and it's like it's choking / wants to die. The signal lights are flashing super fast which I don't recall doing before. Battery wasn't holding charge so I installed a new one tonight; no difference. Alternator is good.
I have not checked the plugs yet because I don't think that would be the cause of an overnight change from running excellent to what it is now but I will check them.
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I have a 98 f150 4wd with manual shift on floor (msof) and the 4wd will not engage. I've done research and I've learned quite a bit but still have an issue. In All the research I've done I have learned about
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I have a 98 f-150 4x4 the abs light is on and I can't link with scanner or seem to find anything wrong I don't have front abs just rear. I hate lights and I've checked everything I can think of.
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I have a 1998 F150 4.6 that has a misfire with no CEL. I have already tried the following: checked fuel pressure, change cam shaft sensors, changed coil, checked MAf seems ok, spark plugs and wires. On my scan tool it wont show any misfires when obviously its misfiring. When driving it will run good for about 10 seconds and then misses for about 10 seconds and it just keep going in this loop.
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1998 F150, XL, 4.6, auto 138k miles. Idles perfect, give it gas 1 time, fine. Second time it sputters. Third time it sounds awful but will Idle perfect. Put in drive, bucks, sputters, jumps, and damn near dies. Threw code P1747 EPC solenoid. Next day truck runs perfect check engine light goes out. Two weeks go by starts to sputter again and check engine light comes back on. Bad ECM?
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1998 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L Auto.
Bought this truck two months ago, the lot had the engine rebuilt due to bad bearings, so fresh motor. They forgot to recharge the AC, so I had them charge it when I purchased it. It blew icy cold every things until a few weeks ago. It wouldn't work, then randomly it would, then it would quit, etc. Today it's 97 and I had it on with my kids in the truck, hot air.
I tried turning it off and on, still hot.
I tried seeing if the temperature was stuck and moved it to hot, it got sweltering hot, back to cold, just warm air. There is no difference between vent and max AC.
I went to the store, picked up a refrigerant filler with gauge and a can of R-134. I hooked it to the low end of the system and was surprised that my pressure was about 60PSI. Great, they over filled it at the dealership. I released the pressure down to 40psi and checked, sill hot. I figured maybe something was weird and they might have mixed good refrigerant with bad and that's why it was intermittent.
I released all the pressure down to 0 PSI. I then put on the can of R-134 and filled it to spec. Sill hot air. I removed the harness from the pressure switch and jumped it, getting sparks when I connect the wire, so it's connecting, but still hot air, probably not the switch.
What's going on here? Could they have over filled it and killed the system or something? What is likely broken here? My heater works like a champ, my AC just blows environment temperature air.
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Got myself into a tight situation with a truck I recently purchased and seeing if any of you have experienced the same thing or know what may be going on. I bought a 1998 F-150 with 213,000 miles and a 4.2 engine. When I test drove the truck it had a small chugging vibration, for lack of a better term, but the check engine light was not on and it seemed to run great while driving. No problem at highway speeds nor below.
On my way home the check engine light turned on which turned into a blinking check engine light and I knew I had been taken by a person with a diagnostic computer who cleared the codes. He made a comment about it turning on before but his "buddy" fixed the issue but I took his word because he seemed like a decent person.
I took it to a local shop and, if I remember correctly, error code 302 came up for misfire on cylinder #2. He changed the plugs and wires and it seemed to run a lot better. About 5 miles later on my way home the check engine light turned back on, but it still seemed to run smoothly by the time I got home.
The next day I took it back to him and this time we got the same error code plus (again going of my poor memory) error 174 which he said was cylinder #2 running lean. Earlier today he called and said he checked over everything and couldn't figure out anything wrong until he checked the compression. He said the other 5 cylinders were around 130 psi and cylinder #2 was at 75 psi.
Now this mechanic runs more of a brake and exhaust shop so his next statements are why I'm coming to all of you for your opinions.
He said the cylinder was shot and everything inside was shot including the piston, rings, and everything else associated with #2. (I don't think he got in there to really check it out) After scouring the forums I hear more people talk about the valves may not be sealing correctly and what sound to me, to be smaller issues than the entire #2 cylinder being toast.
I'm not sure if I am going to go after the person who sold it to me or not yet but I would like to see what others may think is going on before I light this guy up. I plan on taking it to a more proficient mechanic to do the work, if deemed worthy of work, but would like to kmow where I stand.
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ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
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'98 F150. the speedometer isn't working, all other gauges are. Where do I start ?
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My air conditioner fuse keeps burning out , one right after the other for about 5 or 6 fuses. Then it will not burn one for about 2 to 3 weeks , then it will repeat the process. What is wrong?
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