Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 1998 - 4WD Won't Engaging?
Jun 13, 2005
I am having a problem with my 1998 F150 4x4. The 4WD is not engaging. It is a manual shift. I have checked the transfer case by turning the drive shaft in 2WD it is free. When I shift into 4WD it is does not spin freely. So I believe that is OK. I have checked the vaccum diaphram. It will move the piston when I attach a hose and pull vacuum on the inboard hose barb. So I believe the diaphram it self is OK. I am not sure if the hoses and selenoids are OK. They look fine. However there is a constant vacuum on the inboard hose line (red/pink color) wether I am in 4WD or not. Is this OK? How can I check the selenoids. If all this is OK, the next thing I believ it could be is the shift fork in the differential. Is that a difficult job? Do you need to pull the whole axle out to replace it?
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I Have a 1998 f150 4.6 XLT and recently it has been starting on and off. sometimes i will try and start it and wham! it starts right off. then other times I just here the starter hitting and engaging but nothing. Replaced the starter, solenoid and still nothing. It does have an alarm system but the alarm light doesn't come on, also had battery charged and its working fine. I am really fed up with this beautiful looking POS. Oh and the wiper motor needs replace.
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03 F150 2WD-I dropped tranny pan, changed filter, reassembled, put in 4 qts fluid. Checked dipstick, seemed to be overfilled, despite instructions to add 5 qts. Started truck, put it in reverse, went about 4 feet and then tranny wouldn't engage-ran it through all gears, just acts like in park or neutral. Over or Under filled???
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Found out the hard way that the 4wd does not work on this new stupid truck. I've been troubleshooting the solenoids and confirmed that the 2wd solenoid gets grounded and will read ~12V when switched to 4wd; however, the 2wd solenoid always remains grounded and will always read 12V across the plug no matter if it's in 2wd,4hi,4lo. What would cause this? It seems that I would have vacuum going to the front differential from both the 2wd and 4wd solenoids at the same time, thus not allowing it to go into 4wd. BTW, this is on a '98, 4.6, turn dial 4wd
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I was out on the lake last night and after getting stuck in 6" of hard packed snow, I discovered that my 4WD is not engaging. When engaging 4WD, I do hear 2 clicks several seconds apart. I've checked the lines from the solenoids to the actuator and did not find any cracks. I have not checked the lines for vacuum yet but...
Last winter while engaging 4WD, I heard a load POP from the front end when I was turning the wheel and engaging 4WD. Ever since then, I haven't been sure if its been engaging but it was confirmed yesterday on the lake. Based on what I've read, I assume its either the actuator or the shift fork. Is it possible to remove the actuator and test it without disassembling the entire front end?
I went under the truck and had my wife engage and disengage the 4WD. The actuator was trying to move (maybe 1/16" inch) but the shift fork wasn't moving. Does this mean the shift fork is bad (frozen) or does this mean the actuator is bad (not enough power to move the fork)?
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soo a friends 03 f-150 w/ the 4.6 has noticed the a/c compressor clutch engaging while heater is on. clutch engages for about 3 seconds or so and kicks back out consistently but only w/ the heater on. a/c dose function property when using a/c functions... Is this normal or does something need serviced???
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I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 and the four wheel drive isn't working properly. It does work,but to get it to engage I had to drive in reverse for a couple feet then it locked it and everything was fine,pretty sure that isn't normal. What could be wrong with it? As soon as I turn the lights up on the dash,but the front tires don't spin.
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I just got a 99 Ford f150 with the 4.6. I am having problems getting the four wheel drive to engage. I turn the on the dash and the lights come on for four high and for four low. I have a 00 four by four and it works fine, so I know how to work it. In the 99 I can hear the transfer case engaging and everything clicks just fine just like it's going into fourwheel drive, but the front end is not pulling. The front drive shaft is turning but still the front end is not engaged. What the problem may be?
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I have a F150, 97, 4.6L. I changed my Suspension belt, and now my A/C compressor is not engaging. This has happened before, and when I took it to the shop, they called me and said the A/C works just fine. They did not tell me why the A/C stopped engaging or what they did. I tried to locate a relay fuse, but I can't find it.
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My selector switch does not light up when engaging four wheel drive on my 98 f150,could this be my GEM module gone bad ?
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My 4 wheel drive is not engaging on a 2001 F150. The indicator lites on the dash illuminate to suggest that the truck is in 4 wheel drive but sigh...it stays in 2 wheel drive. No gross sounds and the indicator lights are not flashing. Could this be a fuse or a relay issue of some sort. What else should I try?
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I have a 98 Ford Explorer Sport V6 with a 5-speed and 4wd (mechanically Identical to the Ranger) and I've been having a problem ever since the new clutch was put in.
The previous clutch cracked in some way and took the pressure plates with it, so it has an all new clutch and plates, installed by a friend who has a shop. Ever since getting the new hardware, I get a violent vibration when letting out the clutch in First or Reverse from a stop. Friend says it's probably the flywheel, and that fixing it is more trouble than it's worth-- just live with it. If I rev the throttle a bit while letting off the clutch, it engages much more smoothly, but if I do this at idle it shakes violently.
The one weird thing is that it doesn't do this when the engine is cold. For the first ten minutes of driving, the clutch engages smoothly like any other car, but as the engine comes up to temp the shaking returns. This doesn't sound like the flywheel to me.
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Just bough a '98 F150, 4.6L; drove it home and it ran great, lots of impressive power etc... Parked it my shop and getting it ready for safety check so I can register it. All I did was change the oil, oil filter and air filter.
Couple weeks have gone by, I went to start it and it does start & idles beautiful but it will not rev. I give it gas and it's like it's choking / wants to die. The signal lights are flashing super fast which I don't recall doing before. Battery wasn't holding charge so I installed a new one tonight; no difference. Alternator is good.
I have not checked the plugs yet because I don't think that would be the cause of an overnight change from running excellent to what it is now but I will check them.
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I have a 98 f150 4wd with manual shift on floor (msof) and the 4wd will not engage. I've done research and I've learned quite a bit but still have an issue. In All the research I've done I have learned about
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I have a 98 f-150 4x4 the abs light is on and I can't link with scanner or seem to find anything wrong I don't have front abs just rear. I hate lights and I've checked everything I can think of.
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I have a 1998 F150 4.6 that has a misfire with no CEL. I have already tried the following: checked fuel pressure, change cam shaft sensors, changed coil, checked MAf seems ok, spark plugs and wires. On my scan tool it wont show any misfires when obviously its misfiring. When driving it will run good for about 10 seconds and then misses for about 10 seconds and it just keep going in this loop.
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1998 F150, XL, 4.6, auto 138k miles. Idles perfect, give it gas 1 time, fine. Second time it sputters. Third time it sounds awful but will Idle perfect. Put in drive, bucks, sputters, jumps, and damn near dies. Threw code P1747 EPC solenoid. Next day truck runs perfect check engine light goes out. Two weeks go by starts to sputter again and check engine light comes back on. Bad ECM?
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1998 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L Auto.
Bought this truck two months ago, the lot had the engine rebuilt due to bad bearings, so fresh motor. They forgot to recharge the AC, so I had them charge it when I purchased it. It blew icy cold every things until a few weeks ago. It wouldn't work, then randomly it would, then it would quit, etc. Today it's 97 and I had it on with my kids in the truck, hot air.
I tried turning it off and on, still hot.
I tried seeing if the temperature was stuck and moved it to hot, it got sweltering hot, back to cold, just warm air. There is no difference between vent and max AC.
I went to the store, picked up a refrigerant filler with gauge and a can of R-134. I hooked it to the low end of the system and was surprised that my pressure was about 60PSI. Great, they over filled it at the dealership. I released the pressure down to 40psi and checked, sill hot. I figured maybe something was weird and they might have mixed good refrigerant with bad and that's why it was intermittent.
I released all the pressure down to 0 PSI. I then put on the can of R-134 and filled it to spec. Sill hot air. I removed the harness from the pressure switch and jumped it, getting sparks when I connect the wire, so it's connecting, but still hot air, probably not the switch.
What's going on here? Could they have over filled it and killed the system or something? What is likely broken here? My heater works like a champ, my AC just blows environment temperature air.
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Got myself into a tight situation with a truck I recently purchased and seeing if any of you have experienced the same thing or know what may be going on. I bought a 1998 F-150 with 213,000 miles and a 4.2 engine. When I test drove the truck it had a small chugging vibration, for lack of a better term, but the check engine light was not on and it seemed to run great while driving. No problem at highway speeds nor below.
On my way home the check engine light turned on which turned into a blinking check engine light and I knew I had been taken by a person with a diagnostic computer who cleared the codes. He made a comment about it turning on before but his "buddy" fixed the issue but I took his word because he seemed like a decent person.
I took it to a local shop and, if I remember correctly, error code 302 came up for misfire on cylinder #2. He changed the plugs and wires and it seemed to run a lot better. About 5 miles later on my way home the check engine light turned back on, but it still seemed to run smoothly by the time I got home.
The next day I took it back to him and this time we got the same error code plus (again going of my poor memory) error 174 which he said was cylinder #2 running lean. Earlier today he called and said he checked over everything and couldn't figure out anything wrong until he checked the compression. He said the other 5 cylinders were around 130 psi and cylinder #2 was at 75 psi.
Now this mechanic runs more of a brake and exhaust shop so his next statements are why I'm coming to all of you for your opinions.
He said the cylinder was shot and everything inside was shot including the piston, rings, and everything else associated with #2. (I don't think he got in there to really check it out) After scouring the forums I hear more people talk about the valves may not be sealing correctly and what sound to me, to be smaller issues than the entire #2 cylinder being toast.
I'm not sure if I am going to go after the person who sold it to me or not yet but I would like to see what others may think is going on before I light this guy up. I plan on taking it to a more proficient mechanic to do the work, if deemed worthy of work, but would like to kmow where I stand.
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ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
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'98 F150. the speedometer isn't working, all other gauges are. Where do I start ?
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