My F150 with 175,000 miles on gave me a the ol' P0305 code indicating misfiring in cylinder #5. I changed the plugs and wires using Motorcraft wires and Motorcraft AGS34FM plugs.
Now the truck idles fine, does not give a OBD code but runs rough at 2,000-2,500 rpm. Tried it out on the highway and it started "bucking" a bit. Not sure what to try next.
So my 98 f150 xlt 4.6 is having a issue where the truck is jumping from 1500 rpm to about 2500 - 2600 rpm. You know sitting there trying to get up to speed. then all the sudden i look down and its at 1500 rpm. but still not really going anywhere. So i give it a little more throttle or gas and it jumps from 1500 to about 2500. Its been like this for a month but i thought it was crap fuel. What is the cause or maybe a solution?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
-My pickup was parked and hit in the rear axle in January. I had to have the whole axle replaced as well as the leaf spring to frame mounts.
-I finally received the pickup back and now when the trans is in Drive it will not up-shift until the rpms reach 2500 and it is a hard shift.
-Also the speedo does not work now.
-Check engine light also came on with code P0500- vehicle speed sensor.
-I replaced the VSS at the transfercase and the ABS sensor in the rear differential with no change.
I have a 2003 excursion... it is a v 10and just yesterday there was a whistling noise. I parked the vehicle and idle it slowly but no noise. I drove it again n the noise was there again. So the noise is there at 2000-2500 rpm. I'm wondering if its my exhaust manifold?? Also I'm starting to loose power. When running and in parked it shut off.
View 10 RepliesReconditioned engine 5,000 miles ago. Last maintenance check at dealer found nothing wrong. 2000 Honda CRV.
View 4 RepliesI bought a 99 f150 lariat 4x4 with the 5.4 from a guy who said that it needed an oil pump. He said it lost pressure coming into work, he turned it off and coasted in. I towed it home and replaced the battery and bought a new oil pressure sending unit just to be sure it wasn't that.
Those things are so hard to get to. Finally I got an oxygen sensor tool on it and it was only hand tight. Rather than take it off I just tightened it up and started the truck. The dash guage read normal but the truck was idling so badly. Steady at about 1000 rpm and tooth rattling. 1500 with the foot on the pedal it evens out but still rough. Not sure if this was a good idea but I took it around the block. No power under 2500 rpm. Barely moving even. Just felt like there was no throttle response at all and again very rough.
Got it home and parked it. Now I'm wondering what to do to fix the Idle and power problem. Where to start would be great. And input on the oil pressure sending unit too. I suppose I'll have to get under there and replace it at some point anyways.
I have a 1998 Ford Escort which I drove about 450 miles in frigid weather over about 8 hours in mid January. After arriving at my neighborhood and getting off the expressway, I couldn't get the idle on the car (manual transmission) to go below 2500rpm's. Further, upon taking off, the car was trying to stall, and I was forced to feather the clutch through town driving and keep the throttle up so it wouldn't stall, even with the clutch in. The weather at the time was about -7 degrees (f). The next day the weather continued, and thee car would start, jump to the same idle for 10 seconds, then drop suddenly to 500rpm, then stall out. I wrote the car off, cleaned it out over the next week, and then I tried to run the radio while doing so last weekend. I got the car to start, and run normally. I think it may be a computer issue, but it may also be the temperatures. The car has 207,000 miles on it.
View 3 RepliesMy truck runs rough/bad when it rains or is damp out. It stutters and had no acceleration. I just had a new fuel pump put in January. It improves after a while on the road. If it's wet, my travel sucks.
View 6 RepliesI have a 99 F150 Lariat 4x4 with a 5.4, 150,000 mile on it. About 2 weeks ago I blew spark plug out on #2, and a friend who said he has heli-coiled a bunch of these tried to do mine and ruined the head. Anyway, I called a local engine shop and got another PI head, only I used my cam in it. Torqued it as per the book, etc... Mind you that the engine ran perfect before all this.
Got it back together with all new plugs, new exhaust manifold, and 2 new COP's. When I start it-it runs rough for about a min, then straightens back out to run perfect again, and after a few seconds you can hear a solenoid click, then it goes back to missing again. This goes on and on... I went through all the vacuum lines and checked them, checked the egr valve, put on a new IAC, new PVC, cleaned the MAF, and checked everything else with a DVM.
I took it out and drove it.... Runs good for a minute, then it goes back to missing, then back to smooth again. This just keeps going on and on. I noticed when I hear that click, it sounds like a mad rush of air being sucked in, but I cannot locate it. I ordered a new set of COP's to try next. I can understand if it just plain missed all the time, but this it intermittent. Also, the only code I can get is a too lean on bank 1, so I replaced the 90's and the pvc valve. Now no codes but still in and out of missing. It ran perfect before the new head.
My pickup runs smooth 95% of the time. It runs rough at red lights and when pulling away from stops. It seems to happen more when the A/C is on.
View 3 RepliesI have a 98 F150 4x4. I had some trans trouble so I pulled it out and had it rebuilt. Now when it shifts into drive the rpms speed up right before it shifts. What is causing the trans to do this? It doesn't do it all the time, only if I take off faster the usual which is most of the time.
View 1 Replies1998 F150 4.6 automatic.
Had problems with battery light. Was intermittent. Battery cables wouldn't stay tight, replaced them, light stayed off. Light back on now, constant. Battery reads 12.5ish off, 14.3ish running under load (lights, AC, etc.).
When truck is started, even cold, it doesn't rev up the RPM's and then die down to idle speed. It just goes straight to around 550rpm and surges slightly up and down between there and 650ish. Can these be related?
2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
I have a 98 sport 4.0 i bought awhile back and its been running rough.. When driving it seems to cut out.. I had it scanned and it has code PO453 which is pressure sensor.. I was told they replaced the fuel pump when i got it.. After driving and i get out i can smell gas on the drivers side.. I replaced the gas cap but no change.. I was just wondering about this code and what i should start with first..
View 3 Replies1999 F250 LD with 5.4 w/ 225k miles... Was running perfect yesterday when I shut the engine off. Started back up about 20 minutes later and Idles was up and down and rough.( 400 - 900 rpms) Drove and ran fine except Idle. I know that those codes are for the o2 sensors but don't believe they're bad. I hear what sounds like a vacuum leak somewhere behind throttle body. Either IAC or EGR or it could be coming from the line that runs in beside the IAC valve to the air intake in front of the throttle body. Tried spraying water in those areas with no results. Could it be a bad EGR valve or a stuck IAC valve? I have also noticed that lately when I start the engine the engine rpms go up to 2k before dropping down. Would a bad IAC valve cause such rough idling along with the codes that I described?
View 7 RepliesI've seen some discussion about the 4.6 motor not blowing plugs, so I just wanted to add to the confirmation that they do. 106k miles on the motor, #5 came out today on the freeway.
I was looking to repair myself, but the Timesert kit is expensive.. I'm thinking I now want all 8 done so I don't have to deal with this again.
So my "farm truck" is idling very rough, to the point that sometimes that it stalls out. At high idle it runs fine but when its at a idle its very rough. Its been running fine until probably a month ago or so and its just getting worse. What it could be? I am thinking it might be that something is dirty but i just dont know where to start with figuring out what the problem is.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1998 F150 4.6 2wd regular cab with 255,000 miles on it. Lately it has had some problems. The first is that it will run really rough when under a load, meaning when I step on the gas. It runs smooth at idle and at cruise but when I step on the accelerator it bogs way down and almost shuts off. I have changed the spark plugs, spark plug wires, coil packs and fuel filter. Now I'm thinking maybe fuel pump?
The other issue is that when the truck is having to work a little harder (i.e. pulling a trailer or running in the summer with the AC on) it will start to run hot. I have changed the thermostat, flushed the coolant, cleaned out the radiator, etc. and it still does it. Could both of my issues be related to a fuel problem??
I have a 1998 Ford F150 4.6L Triton V8 with the FX4 package. As of recent I have noticed my truck tends to idle roughly every so often that I start it up and after longer trips but will run fine once I get going. I take care of my truck like its my baby. I've done everything to it that I can without getting into the engine such as replacing spark plugs, wires, KN air filter, new ignition coil packs, change oil every 5000 with best products, etc the basic tune up stuff every one should do. This truck only has 118,xxx miles on it as it sat in a barn for around 4 or 5 years due to the previous owner being in the military.
I have been trying to search for the cause of this problem but cannot exactly seem to pinpoint it myself. One unusual thing I've noticed also is that when I run the air either hot or cold when my RPM's get high, when I go up hills or punch it, the air switches from vent to dashboard(defrost). I talked to someone who said this was most likely a vacuum leak. Maybe there is a correlation between the two? I'm not exactly sure. I read online my idling problems may be from a cracked PCV elbow? I cleaned out the EGR valve also about two months ago to see if that work. I am willing to try anything myself as long as it doesn't involve tearing the motor apart!
Yr 2000 F-150 with V6 . Only 68K miles. 3 weeks ago went into fast food for lunch and then truck would not start. The starter would spin it over real well and plenty of gas etc etc. I came back the next day with a tow truck to take it to the dealer and it cranked and ran perfectly for 3 weeks till yesterday. Same thing. Will not start in parking lot of grocery store.
I only have one key and someone suggested that it could be the chip in the key or the theft system acting up. I only have one key from when I bought the truck 7 years ago used. Someone else said when the anti theft system is screwing up, the motor will be totally dead and starter will not work.
This time I am again planning to tow to the dealer and I fear a huge bill for something that is actually very tiny at fault since the truck runs perfectly well and then mysteriously will not start. This is the 2nd time in 3 weeks I have been stranded. I pulled all the fuses and reinserted. I checked all spark wires and they are in good shape and tight. What could it be that all of a sudden causes the engine to not start up and run intermittently ?
It is something I can do myself and I am pretty capable. I replaced in the last year water pump, power steering pump, ball joints and alternator. So what is not getting..... fuel or spark? The only two things we need for to run ... right ?