My dads f150 shuts off intermittently while driving it. He has to pull over and wait about 5 minutes until it restarts again. We have tried replacing the fuel filter, still shuts off! Some one pointed out the coil!? I am thinking that it might be the switch. It might be bad, shorting out and shutting down the truck?
View 6 RepliesHaving problems with the truck - either a no crank situation and now a complete shut down while driving at any speed.
Dash is blank with no power when truck shuts down, here is the hitch with the no crank, I pulled and replaced the PCM module and the truck fired up without hesitation. I had to do this a few times over the course of today to get home. I can live with having to do that for a while but it is unnerving to have the truck shut down with 0 notice.
Throttle body was just cleaned, and all starter/battery connections cleaned and protected. Brand new PCM relay. What does this relay have to do with reset, for clean start up after removing it and then just putting it back in it's place? Would there be any solutions for the dies completely while driving, or fails to crank?
I have a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4 L Trition it shuts off while driving the steering wheel locks up when the truck shuts off I tried everything and it doesn't seem to help the problem. I changed the Iacv idle air control valve,I had a bad o2 sensor changed that, changed the crank sensor, cleaned the throttle body and changed the Tps sensor, got a new battery, changed the vacuum lines.i really don't know what else to do this truck is becoming a nightmare and is dangerous to drive I never know when it's going to shut off and when it does shut off sometimes it starts right up and other times it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1986 Honda Accord Hatchback Lxi, 180,000 miles, automatic, one owner, always excellent care (very recently new spark plugs, new air filter, new oil and filter, and several years ago new Pirelli tires). Lately, while driving, it intermittently loses power, like it's going to stall, but never does. I accelerate to recover. Years ago I used to hear about vapor lock. Last week I took it to a Honda dealer. They had no diagnostic machines for "old" cars and had no clue what was causing this. Most of the time, the car drives beautifully, but it's scary thinking it's going to quit and I'll be stranded on the side of the road.
View 3 RepliesA co worker gave me an 1986 F-150 5.0 302 with 225,000 miles that he had sitting for 1 year in driveway. He never put the new alternator in that he bought. I towed it to my house and put the alt. in jumped the battery and it started but idle was horrible. turned the idle screw to get bad gas burned off.
Whenever I shut it off or it died from idle I would have to jump it. So, I put new 56-3 battery new relay and it started right up. Drove it down the road to test drive, the truck would want to fowl out whenever I stepped on gas peddle hard. I put Sea Foam and Lucas in the tank and 20.00 premium on top. but now the truck will not turn over since it was shut off unless i jump it but needs jumping all the time. thought it was the starter so, replaced that and still tick, tick, tick, tick when trying to start won't turn over. Its going to start to make me drink, what I can replace now or have checked? maybe its the Alternator he gave me with the truck?
2003 F 150. 5.4 motor. 4x4. 270,000 miles. Climate control.
The A/C is ice cold.. For the first 12-15 miles, and then it shuts off and is warm.
I had it recharged at the shop just to be sure. When it works, it blows out the vent at approx. 42 degrees.. nice and cold.
This problem happens every time. Turning the climate control off and then back on doesn't work.
Shutting the truck off and then back on doesn't work. Wait a while.. Not quite sure how long, but the next time I drive it, it will work again. For about 12-15 miles and then blows warm again.
A bit of funky , moist smell to it when it blows warm.. Typical A/C smell I think.. The box could prob use a cleaning.
We have a 1997 Pontiac Grand Am 2.4L. Recently it has begun to shut off while it is being driven. We will have to pull over and wait X amount of time before it will restart. An interesting addition to this is that it only happens when the weather is hot. If it is a cold or wet day, this will not happen and the car will run perfectly.
We have tried several things on this car to try to fix this problem. We have replaced Computer
Fuel pump
CPS or Hall sensor
Water pump
Control module
Cam sensor
Both coils
Throttle Sensor
Thermostat
New Radiator
1997 Volvo 850 Engine Problem? My customer question is, during the times my customer drive, When my customer start the car & when my customer put it on drive, the engine shuts off. My customer was wondering what was the issue of the problem , ALLDATA 10.53 & what's causing it to happen.
View 2 RepliesThree weeks ago my 1997 Oldsmobile eighty-eight (75K miles) shut off while I was driving. I was able to pull over and restart it immediately. This morning it happened again, same exact way. It shut off without warning, nothing seemed out of the ordinary, except for the shutting off! For the past few months my check engine light has gone on and subsequently turned off two-three days later. Most of the time when it turns on, I have been driving on the interstate for an extended period of time:at 70 or 75 mph.
I had it looked at once and they said the light was triggered by the transmission- they serviced it but I didn't notice much difference. Occasionally, I feel the car stutter while slowing down, almost like it might stall-but it never actually has. Finally, ever since I got the car-two years ago from my grandparents, there is a pull occasionally when I am going about 40-45mph and speeding up-almost like it is having trouble shifting. I don't know if all these issues are related...not sure who to trust to take it to. What could be going on?
I just got a 1986 190e. The ac seems to work but when I turn the fan on the compressor shuts off. Am I doing something wrong ?
View 2 RepliesI drive a 97 Honda Accord and just recently started experiencing an issue where while driving, my ignition suddenly shuts off. Sometimes when this happens I'm able to turn the key and get the ignition started right back up while coasting, but usually forces me to coast to the side of the road instead to throw it in park and restart ignition (instantly, no sputtering). This problem seems to occur most frequently while driving at low speeds or stopped at a light or sign. Despite the ignition cutting, my headlights and radio, etc remain on leading me to believe that the battery is fine. I've taken it in to get it diagnosed at two different mechanics so far but they've been unable to replicate the situation and couldn't do anything. The problem is occurring more and more frequently (as much as 4 times for a 10 minute drive last night) and I'm going crazy trying to figure this out. Anything similar seen before? (spark plugs, alternator, blocked air filter, etc?).
View 15 RepliesThis started about 6 weeks ago. While sitting at a stop light the motor cut out. After some research I replaced the cps. Truck ran fine for about 3 weeks, then shut down again while pulling into the driveway of a store. Replaced the cps again (this time with a ford one). Ran fine for another 3 weeks, then shut down again on the freeway. No CEL on any occasion.
It's just like someone turned the key off. No rough idling at all. No smoke during starting or driving. When it shuts down, it will not start again for 20-30 minutes, no matter how many time you crank it. It will just turn over, no sputter. When it fires up again there is no air in the lines either, it runs like nothing happened.
I'm now thinking it might be a ipr issue...is there a way I can check myself or does it need to go to the mechanic? Or is it something completely different? This is my mother in laws daily driver, 178k. She does not drive on the freeway, 80% of the mileage is city driving. What could be going on?
I bought a 99 f350, that already had HID's in it, i found out i was running the wrong batters (weren't 800 cold crank) I just had to replace the alternator. Ever since the new alternator when i turn on my headlights my truck shuts off. IT fried my IDM and i just put a new IDM and 2 new batteries in it today. Thinking i had fixed the problem i drove around no issues, finally i was leaving someones house and turned on my lights, and truck shuts off!!! It restarts but now im trowing a code!!!! im guessing the HIDs are wired wrong and that's why its shutting down the truck but OEM IDM from ford is 1300$!!!!! brand new one installed today,
View 5 RepliesPCV hose/grommet was rotted out with 1 inch hole but supposedly he spent a long time tracking down the problem. It was located way in the back middle (like underneath the wiper blades area).
2002 F150 XLT Crew Cab 4.6L 4x4 170K
What known issues would do this but not turn engine light on? Motor sounds excellent and runs excellent. Previously it was missing and engine code come up as random misfire, misfire cylinder #2 and #4. I replaced the coil packs on 2 and 4 and erased the code and there was a 1000% difference. Ran excellent (still does).
However, a week later I noticed a subtle shake in the motor, and at idle it would stay at 1...maybe slowly chirp just above 1, and then sputter a little down to 1/2 rpm. It will do this and stay running, but sometimes it will cut off.
What are the possible things that you think it could be considering no check engine codes? (Bad motor?)
I recently removed my timing cover due to a coolant leak and found the cover was cracked. I had it welded and reinstalled but i did not remove the crank sensor from the cover while it was being welded. Now the engine starts but shuts right back down. Do the welding may have damaged the sensor and giving me this condition? 1997 4.2 ....
View 1 RepliesI am currently having an issue with my 2003 Yukon XL. Randomly, but mostly associated with hot outside air temps or while pulling our camper the truck will just shut off. Almost like we turned off the ignition. We don't get any sputtering or misfiring, nor does the CE light come on. After about 3-5 min we can start the truck up and keep on going. On the hot days it may do it a few more times but on others it wont do it again for weeks. I recently had it looked at and the mechanic thought it was a fuel pump. But after finding out the cost of the repair I did some investigating and found other people have had this problem. They to were told it was a fuel pump. However after it was replaced they still have had the problem.
View 9 RepliesSo, I'm driving my 2003 Saturn LW 300 wagon (3.0 liter, V-6 engine) the other day, and the engine shuts off out of nowhere. Luckily, I was on a quiet secondary road, so I drifted to a curb in neutral. Then my car wouldn't start. Eventually, my car started. I drove for another five minutes, and the engine shut off again--without coming back on--while I was driving.
This time I couldn't get the car started again. I had it towed into a shop. Of course, the car starts up, no problem, in the garage. But while it's running for 20 minutes, the engine cuts off once again. They started it back up again, and it ran without stop for 40 minutes. The mechanics can't figure out the problem, and I don't feel real good about taking this car back on the road, especially since I do a lot of highway driving.
What's going on here? (A friend's father had a similar problem with his truck; after taking it to four different shops, one of them finally determine the problem--the fuel pump's electrical harness. Is it possible I'm having the same problem?)
My 2001 F350 7.3 dually diesel Automatic has been a pretty good truck but recently it has been dying. Engine just randomly shuts off without warning while Driving. Check engine light comes on sometimes. Some of the time it will restart if I cycle the key. Once its running again I can rev the engine up without a sputter but after a few hundred yards down the road it will die again. I noticed driving on the highway when it does it my truck will buck first, then...
If I leave it in drive with the key in the run position when it dies and I'm coasting down the highway the Tach starts jumping around like its trying to restart itself, all on its own. I don't have a scanner.
The last time it died I coasted into my driveway and it wouldn't restart, went back out there 30 minutes later and it fired right up. Its only 40 degrees here if that matters, not hot by any means.
We are having an air conditioning issue with our '03 6.0 Excursion so...
Since about 60,000 miles our air conditioner will Intermittently shut off (meaning the actual head or face unit in the dash is or does not have any power to it). Yes...I have checked fuses, and the possibility of any disconnected wiring and have found no issues. It will eventually just start working again without fail. (Note: Of course this only happens when we are in extreme weather conditions = River/Desert 110+)
Recently it stopped working - after an air conditioning service (recharge) so I took it back to the dealer in Arizona that performed the service. The advisor told me (without checking with a tech) that it was most likely a "head unit" that was out and it would cost about 1000.00 to replace. He also stated that he "sees this alot" and that they have replaced many.
The A/C compressor now shuts off while I am driving the car. The blower still blows air and the light for the A/C on or off stays lit. The only way I am able to get the a/c back on is to shut off the car and restart. The refrigerant level in the system is where it should be. Possible bad pressure switch or relay somewhere? The weather here in Vegas is a little warm so need to get fixed asap.
View 1 Replies1998 F150 XLT 4x4 4.6L Auto.
Bought this truck two months ago, the lot had the engine rebuilt due to bad bearings, so fresh motor. They forgot to recharge the AC, so I had them charge it when I purchased it. It blew icy cold every things until a few weeks ago. It wouldn't work, then randomly it would, then it would quit, etc. Today it's 97 and I had it on with my kids in the truck, hot air.
I tried turning it off and on, still hot.
I tried seeing if the temperature was stuck and moved it to hot, it got sweltering hot, back to cold, just warm air. There is no difference between vent and max AC.
I went to the store, picked up a refrigerant filler with gauge and a can of R-134. I hooked it to the low end of the system and was surprised that my pressure was about 60PSI. Great, they over filled it at the dealership. I released the pressure down to 40psi and checked, sill hot. I figured maybe something was weird and they might have mixed good refrigerant with bad and that's why it was intermittent.
I released all the pressure down to 0 PSI. I then put on the can of R-134 and filled it to spec. Sill hot air. I removed the harness from the pressure switch and jumped it, getting sparks when I connect the wire, so it's connecting, but still hot air, probably not the switch.
What's going on here? Could they have over filled it and killed the system or something? What is likely broken here? My heater works like a champ, my AC just blows environment temperature air.