Ford - Explorer :: While Coming To Stop Idle Goes Up And Had To Shut Off Engine?
Mar 31, 2013
2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
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Well i have a 1992 for explorer 4.0 all lights seem to dim kinda surging at idle or coming to a stop. Has new battery, battery cables nice and tight new alternator. My Volt gauge on my cluster jumps from 12 to 14 volts. battery light flashes seems to be getting worse. Was having similar issue about 1 year ago found a injector giving up. Replaced injector and worked good for a while. Wondering is it common to have that issue with injectors causing these issues. Doesn't seem likes its missing firing.
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1994 Ford Explorer; When I start it, if I don't step on the gas it will stop. If I give it some gas when I start it, the engine will race and then decelerates about 2000 rpms and keeps doing this, it does get better as the engine warms up. But the idle is really rough. It has new wires, plugs, vacume lines, oil change, air filter and battery. If I put the gas pedal to the rug, it will go from 4000rpm back down to 2000rpm and continue doing this as long as I keep the pedal to the metal. I had it put on an analyzer and it didn't read anything.
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I have had my truck for about 4 years bought it used. I've replaced the motor due to #1 cylinder blowing up. So after I replaced the motor, it wouldn't start. Replaced O rings on HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) and started. When moving back to Colorado where I am stationed. It started getting harder and harder to start.
Then it got to the point where it wouldn't start so I would have to wait until I could start it or use a shot of starting fluid and yes I hate that. But I don't have a choice. I've bought new O rings replaced them and my IPR with upgraded screen. It fixed it for a week then the hard start came back. Tried unplugging ICP Sensor still hard start problem. ICP was reading 85%. When the truck is cold it fires right up no problems till it gets hot! Then driving down the high and hitting an off ramp it will shut off. When I try revers it will also shut off. The truck only has 111,252 miles.
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Have a 97 explorer 4wd xlt push rod. The key will not turn the engine off( when the unit is hot) with head lights on, I turn key off engine runs, i reach over and turn the headlights off engine will shut off. Start back with the headlights off the engine will shut right off, but if I turn the headlights on on while it is running and leave them on it will not shut off, unless i turn headlights off.cold start does fine.. I can turn ign key to the off position radio stops playing, so I know it is not the the switch or rod. I was going down the highway and lost dash lights and taillights the other day I moved the switch a little and they came back on the ign switch worked perfect that day.
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I have a 2001 Sport Trac with the 4.0L engine and it's not producing a spark. The problem started when my dad was driving down the road and be claims it just shut off without warning, no sputtering, nothing. He had taken it to a shop and they had just come right out and said the engine went. My bf looked at it and he says there are no signs whatsoever of the engine going.
No oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, we have replaced the ECM, coil pack, crank sensor, spark plugs, and checked the fuel. The theft light flashes every few seconds, not rapidly, so we ruled that out. The truck turns but doesn't start, when the key is turned to the "run" position, you can hear everything turn on, it just doesn't start. When it cranks, it isn't fast or slow, it's the normal speed from what I can remember so I'm not sure if it could be the timing chain or not. Where we can go from there?
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The other day I went to turn off my vehicle and it continued running even when key is in off position. I took the key out and it still continued running. I had to disconnect the battery and turn key in on position for vehicle to stall. I do not want to buy any unnecessary parts nor do I want to take apart any unnecessary.
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I have a 2003 ford Explorer xlt v8 4.6 with a P2197 code.(02 sensor bank2 sensor1)...
I had code P2195 a few months ago and replaced that 02 sensor but just recently truck threw code P2197 and is now starting to idle surge when I stop at a light or just leave it running in park.
Replaced PCV valve and the hose that goes from pcv valve to IAC also replaced Fuel Filter. Cleaned IAC, Throttle Body and MAF did the old check for vacuum leaks with can of carb cleaner nothing found.
Pulled all coil packs off checked OHMs all read .6,coil boots looked to be in good shape going to replace spark plugs and 02 sensor.
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4.6 liter V8 limited.
Problem 1 : Driving into a small town I slowed to 35 mph and set cruise control to hold speed. Suddenly a loud warning tone/ beep sounded and the engine shut off. I coasted into a parking lot and restarted and drove the rest of the way home without incident. (another 1-1/2 hour drive). Could I have had an auto shut down because of a low fluid sensor or something similar?
My cold antifreeze was below the cold fill range but still was visible in the container. The temperatures were not high and the heater still worked. All other levels were normal.
Problem 2 : It also have an irritating buzz in the dash some where. Sounds almost like you would imagine a speedometer cable could sound, except no cable. Could it be the speedometer? It is intermittent and seems related to either speed or RPM.
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I have a newly purchased 2000 subaru outback automatic. I just busted my back doing new front CV Axels, Inner/Outer tie rods with boots and front tires with alignment. The other day when coming to a stop at a intersection she shut off rather abruptly. She started up again right away but its happened a few times. The general consensus is that this typically is an indication of an electrical problem but I have also heard transmission fluid issues and perhaps an air sensor. I plan to do my transmission fluid and see if that does the trick.
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I think it's possessed! My sisters vehicle, a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 V-6, automatic, 2 wheel drive will just shut off. At first it acted like it would vapor lock. But it would start right away. then the a while later, (several months), it got where it would drop rpms and the engine shudders, sometimes not dying.
When this first started, the throttle body was cleaned, a new air filter installed, fuel pressure checked. Everything checked out and for a few days it ran fine. Then it started all over again. There has never been a code thrown. All of this goes on only when the ambient temp is above 70 deg.'s. below 70 deg.'s it runs perfect.
Last week it went to the mechanic again and a new crank speed sensor, fuel pump, and diagnostic done. He could not find anything wrong any where. Took it for a test drive and it dyed on the mechanic. Still no codes. What the problem might be? Every Mechanic that has looked at it has gave up, one even saying, " it's possessed."
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This truck has been giving me tranny problems for a while now. About a year ago, stopped in traffic in neutral, I attempted to shift into 1st but it wouldn't go into gear, not reverse, not any gear. Eventually after a minute or so of trying it reluctantly went into 1st. About 6 months ago I started the truck after being parked and again it wouldn't get into gear. Shut it off, tried to get it into gear, nothing. Checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the clutch and it looked a little low so added a bit and after that it shifted into gear (maybe coincidentally). Now about a month ago, it again wouldn't shift into gear after being started. I checked the reservoir again, looked fine this time. Shut the car off, attempted to shift and this time shifted with ease
Something that I've noticed in the past year is that sometimes now when I shut the engine off it doesn't run down smoothly; kind of slows then clunks to a stop. Didn't used to do that.
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Having that flash on the dash? Truck was running fine and the buzzer when off and dash said I think -- when safe stop and shut off engine immediately. Scared the scr-p out of me so not sure if that was word for word. Jump on the binders and got it off the road and called a wrecker. Now it's at the dealer waiting for them in the morning. Checked oil and don't see any leaks. Now I have lost my confidence in the truck. 42000 miles on it.
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I have a 1999 f-150 4x4 4.6 5spd manual 180,000 miles on the clock. My question is, when coming to a stop i push the clutch in an the idle hangs at about twice what it should be until i come to a complete stop then it drops to normal. It's not like somethings sticking cause it will stay at the high idle as long as were rolling but as soon as the wheels stop turning it drops down.
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Background info: Had a blown head gasket and a mechanic used a sealant on it to patch it up. Car went from not turning on to running ok
Problem: at idle the engine creaks. It isn't a ticking or knocking but definitely more of a creaking sound. Can't figure out if this is safe for the car to be driven and what could be causing it.
I have a video of the sound .... Potentially a head gasket that was partially fixed maybe??
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My sonata 2011 yf suddenly engine shut down in 20 - 30 meters after start or stop...
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Engine revs excessively when I press accelerator to shift between 2 and 3 gear. It acts like the transmission is having problem "up shifting". However I had the transmission checked thoroughly and all checks out OK. New fluid, no leaks, compression good, bands good, no debris in housing etc. This engine rev also occurs while stopped at stop lights for no reason. (no acceleration, etc) I also notice the fan behind the radiator running at high speeds when engine is in idle mode. Fan revs and then slows and then revs again. Don't know if this is related.
Engine rev is not related to running the AC. It happens if AC is on or off. The fan rev and the engine rev are not the same sound or symptom.The vehicle runs fine when I first drive it on 40 mile trip to work in the AM. As the day goes on and the vehicle is driven more then the engine rev problem shows up. (again on an intermittent frequency). Question. Could a dirty fuel filter cause this engine rev. Question. What might be some things to check out to find and resolve this problem?
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Just purchased a 99 passat v6 and it has a low idle surge and stalls when coming to a stop.It runs fine until it heats up about 15 min. then it surges up and down and stalls.
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Like the title says, 89 Chevy G20 V8 5.7l. When coming to a stop or in idle while in drive the van will shut off. Here are the symptoms.1. When driving below 10MPH the oil pressure gauge will drop to 0 and then the van shuts off.2. When starting the van a nice white plume of smoke comes out of the exhaust.3. Van had been chugging a bit when stopped and the AC was on. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator today thinking that possibly the engine was getting flooded when slowing down, but that did not fix the problem.
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I have had my golf R for 7 months now and ever sense I got tuned I have had this little issue. Besides this the car is amazing but ever now and then the car while coming to a stop and put it in natural to come to a stop the idle will go to 500 then come back up to 1200 then rest at 800. I'm getting my PCV replaced tomorrow. I'm um stage 2 tune fully loaded with Bsh intake full 3" exhaust.
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After driving the vehicle on the highway (30+ minutes at 65+ mph), exiting highway on an exit ramp and coming to a stop (at stop sign or traffic light), the engine will sometimes stall and shut off. Immediately thereafter, vehicle can be restarted and driven. There are no other symptoms, abnormal sounds, vibrations, etc.
I thought problem might be caused by vapor lock. However, Hyundai dealer service center checked fuel pump, fuel lines and vacuum hoses, etc. but can not duplicate, identify or repair problem.
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