Ford - Explorer :: Vehicle Starts And Idles A Bit Rough - Cylinder 8 Misfire


Sep 14, 2014

I just got a 4.6 4WD Explorer in for rough running. It had timing chain noise and some odd codes for primary coil H codes along with cylinder 8 misfire.

I replaced the coil to get rid of the "H" code and it was fine. Still misfires on 8, and I really don't care because it's coincidence that the timing could be affecting it or perhaps.... bent valves!

The vehicle starts and idles a bit rough. Can't go very fast, and of course I know I should run it as little as possible!

Here is the deal, how should I present this to the customer? Should I let him know that some valves could be bent after replacing the chain (and all associated parts) and that it could still be effed? Or will I be fine after replacing? Pretty much, where they had a tensioner failure/guide breakage and valves bent too?

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126000kms on 03 explorer 4.6 truck started. Running rough at idle and under load.... Code came up for cyl 8 injector. Replaced injector... problem still there. Switched cop and plug with another cyl and plug.... same code and cycl 8 is definitely not working. Would a generic problem always affect i cylinder. I even checked wire clip on for injector... it appears ok. There is power to injector wire clip.

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After sitting engine cranks longer than it usually did before it starts. idles a little rough. engine light comes on after it been running about 30 sec for 1 min. after that seems to run fine.check codes po446 and p1633 always come up. if you let sit a bit with key on starts right up.replaced gas cap checked evap lines, and changed filter no luck. Did notice with lines off evap solenoid key off or on i can blow through it. that doesn't sound right.

Checked fuel pressure. key on jumps to 90psi then falls to 55psi and stays. turn off key and leaked off 10psi in 5 min.start engine while watching gauge does the same as when the key on except it falls to 30 to 35 psi and bounces between them. i think this is way low. What is the correct pressure? Shut off engine and drops to 20 in 5 min. Next I plugged line on test tee going to fuel rail and tested same results as key on. the convinced fuel pump was bad since regulator and check is there. replaced pump. problem still there.

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Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.

I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.

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The problem I have is when it is cold out under 40 degrees, my car starts rough and idles rough until it gets to temperature. My research has concluded it may be cold start. Does this sound right?

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Ford - Explorer :: 2006 - Misfire On Cylinder 3 And 4 Consistently

My wife's explorer has developed a misfire on cylinder 3&4 consistently. I did have cylinder 2 misfire once. But have not had it come back. The explorer is a 2006 4.6 limited with 130000 miles. Originally it was misfiring on cylinder 3. So I swapped the coil packs between 2&3. Cleared the codes. Still got a cylinder 3 misfire. So I went and bought new plugs for it. Cleared the codes. Still misfire on cylinder 3. Swapped injectors 3&1.

I took it out and romped on it and now I get cylinder 3&4 consistently misfiring. Now I got me to thinking that the only side that is misfiring is the pass side. I was going to swap o2 sensors but couldn't get the driver side out so I went and bought a new o2 upstream for the passenger side. Still get 3&4 misfire. Thought it might be fuel related so I pulled the filter. It was kinda tough to blow through so I put a new fuel filter in it. How the hell can I check the fuel pressure without a fuel fitting? I am now thinking it might be fuel pump, plugged cat, or low compression

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I have a 2003 2.0 gas Jetta (181k miles, automatic.) that won't rev over 3k, starts rough, idles rough and wont stop setting a P0341 cam position sensor code.

The car was not running when i got it, i replaced the coil pack and it ran but not over 3k. Cleared codes, it sets the P0341 immediately.

Had timing belt, water pump, tensioner and cam pos sensor replaced. Still, sets p0341 code, starts rough, idles rough and wont rev over 3k.

The throttle servo makes a little noise when actuated, shop thinks this is my demon - suggests replace throttle body.

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Just recently my Prius Taxi with 340,000+Km has developed a little problem,it starts fine but after 20-30 seconds it begins to feel like it's not running properly on all four cylinders,if i go to the exhaust pipe it seems like it's spluttering slightly.

Yesterday I changed the plugs,checked air filter and all connections,everything fine, when I accelerate it feels hesitant but after the car gets up to temp it seems to go away,it only happens when i start it first thing or if it's been left for a few hours, it's never had the throttle body cleaned and I'm wondering if what I'm describing is a symptom of this?

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Buick - Regal :: Rough Idles And Misfires On Cold Starts

1991 Regal, 3800 v6.

So here's an interesting observation. When i turn the ignition to ON, I hear no sound nor feel any vibration from the fuel pump. Is there any scenario where a fuel pump fails to prime yet kicks into gear after a start? So, I've got rough idles and misfires on cold starts. Before I start replacing parts my diagnostic plans is as follows:

Remove and inspect spark plugs.
Inspect and test starter coil/distributor (still have to research how to do this)
Test resistance on fuel injectors.
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Test compression for possible small head leak.

I'm wondering, if I do have a tiny head leak that is letting in a drip or two of coolant after hours of the engine sitting, will I be able to see this on the gauge doing a compression test? I've never done one before and still need to buy a gauge, but maybe I'm better off just doing the other tests and if they all check out I can be certain it is a minor head leak.

My assumption is that I have a leaking injector; just trying to do things the proper way.

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On my wife's '99 Explorer, she just acquired, we had a P0303, #3 cylinder misfire. I found the plug cracked and replaced it. Do the codes reset themselves or do I have to do it? I'd rather not disconnect the battery and reprogram the radio.

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Now we only get about a year per battery. We also noticed the drained batteries are typically accompanied with misfiring and a bad coilpack. Not sure how that fits into the equation but we have changed 3 of the 6 coil packs. The most recent batt swap only lasted 7 months. The flickering lights and jumping RPM n Speedo needles happen last firday when my wife called me to say "its at it again" driving rough, ABS light, Ck eng light on and flashing.

She got home late and parked it in the garage. The next morning i went out to inspect and it wouldn't start. Fast clicking sound of a dead batt. I changed the battery (Costco batt fitment 24f i believe) yesterday (Monday). She called this morning and the car is still riding rough and the ck eng light is on. My guess is another coilpack.

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Rough Idle Cylinder 3 Misfire

2004 Ford F150 5.4 Triton 3V Vin5.....

How this started, Drove through a lot of water as our City was in a flood on my way home and and the truck started running rough and got worse over time, I can now barely get to 40 mph as it starts to ping and sputter with no power.. the truck has been parked and not driven while in the shape it's in.

The truck keeps giving me error code P0303 Cylinder 3 misfire detected, P0174 System too lean (Bank 2) and at times another error P0300 saying multiple cylinder misfires detected.

After clearing the codes, I got new codes stating Misfire on Cylinder 2, 3, 4, 6. System too rich (Bank 1) System too lean (Bank 2)
Cleared the codes again and I'm back to Cylinder 3 misfire and System too lean (Bank 2)

What I have done so far... All repairs with in a few days...

1. Changed all spark plugs.
2. Changed all Coil Packs.
3. Changed number 3 fuel Injector.
4. Changed the Oil and Filter. (no water in the oil)
5. Changed the MAP Sensor.
6. Changed Bank 2 O2 Sensor 1 and 2.
7. Loosen the Catalytic Converter on the drivers side to re-leave back pressure thinking the Cat was plugged, still loss of power. I also drilled a small hole in the exhaust at my lowest point to see if it had water in it and it does not.

Checked for vacuum leaks using starting fluid around the intake manifold, no change in idle.. I also checked to make sure the vacuum line was still connected on the back of the intake manifold, I have found nothing leaking.

I also had cleaned the throttle body and changed the throttle position sensor.

Repairs within the last 6 months or less...

8. Replace passenger side cat.
9. Replaced both Bank 1 OS Sensors
9. Replaced Timing chains, Gears, Guides, Guide Tensioners, Oil Pump and pickup tube, Water Pump.
Cam Phasers are fine.

And number 3 coil is getting spark I changed the Ignition Coil again thinking maybe another bad pack.
Still #3 misfire and System too lean (Bank 2).

I am at a loss and not sure what to try, except for a compression test on cylinder 3 but I honestly don't think it's compression or a burnt valve.

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Ford - Explorer :: 2000 - EGR Pipe Is Completely Broken Free From The Header - Cylinder 2 Misfire

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